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5w30 oil

13K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  Professor Maxxx 
#1 ·
Just finished my 1st scheduled maintenance today and they did some check on my 2016 MO everything is fine but when I check the paper works I noticed that the oil they used is 5w30 instead of 0w20 that is stated on owners manual,what are your thoughts here guys?Im from canada.
 
#2 ·
5-30 is standard in US Muranos. Canadian manuals may indicate a lower viscosity rating due to lower average temperatures in northern climes.

There is no single answer to the oil viscosity you can run in any vehicle. You have a range of options open to you. Do some searching online and you will find many discussions of oil options and the conditions under which they are used.
 
#15 ·
Not familiar with that group, unfortunately.

I'm a fan of Mobil 1 because it's a good product with decades of development behind it, many stores carry it, and it's reasonably priced. It does tend to "run thinner" than some other oils.

I've used Amsoil for years as well - it actually has a longer history than Mobil 1, and I consider it to be a slightly better product because of its composition and chemistry, but it's not carried by most shops and it's not as easy to get. I consider Redline to be a top product, but the warranty issue is a problem for any vehicle that's under warranty.

Valvoline and other oils are vastly superior to what they were even 20 years ago, and there are tons of good oils on the market.

I have "converted" many cars to synthetics at 80K to 100K miles and never had an engine problem as a result. I just buy the car, run a can of Gunk engine cleaner through it (following the directions carefully), then drain oil, install the new filter and synthetic oil. Nothing anyone can't do at home.
 
#17 ·
Most Amsoil oils are not API certified.

And keep in mind that Mobil 1 is a Group III hydrocracked conventional. It's called synthetic because it's molecularly modified. Group IV and Group V (Redline) are true synthetics.

Mobil 1 EP is Group IV, as I was saying earlier.

As to the original topic, I always prefer W30 over something lower, but you have to document what you use if you do your own changes and I'm always paranoid the dealer will use the viscosity deviation from the manual to screw me. I stick with the manual to 60K and then go nuts with Redline.
 
#18 ·
That API certification is probably fairly expensive to get. For those whose engines are out of warranty, it's not an issue. For those still under warranty, it's a good idea to stay with an oil that meets all manufacturer specs and labels.
 
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#19 ·
Been using Mobil 1 since I bought my Toyota MR2 in 1989 (favorite car I've owned) and haven't used anything else since. Buy the 5 qt jugs at Walmart at a great price, you can't go wrong.
 
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#23 ·
Agreed. Today's oils are miles better than oils a decade or two ago.

Most of the oil-related damage done today is by people who never change oil, or who only remember it every 50K miles or so. Yes, they are out there.

The only thing I'd add is that changing more often than required by warranty or the manufacturer may "waste" a buck or two, but it can only help.
 
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