Just finished my 1st scheduled maintenance today and they did some check on my 2016 MO everything is fine but when I check the paper works I noticed that the oil they used is 5w30 instead of 0w20 that is stated on owners manual,what are your thoughts here guys?Im from canada.
5-30 is standard in US Muranos. Canadian manuals may indicate a lower viscosity rating due to lower average temperatures in northern climes.
There is no single answer to the oil viscosity you can run in any vehicle. You have a range of options open to you. Do some searching online and you will find many discussions of oil options and the conditions under which they are used.
Oh thats why,because they gave me 2years free maintenance and I asked them to use synthetic oil but they asked me to pay extra $ to convert it to synthetic oil
Not faulting anyone for having the dealer do the work, but if I am physically able, this is one of many reasons I do it myself... Just to avoid the aggravation.
I'm a fan of Mobil 1 because it's a good product with decades of development behind it, many stores carry it, and it's reasonably priced. It does tend to "run thinner" than some other oils.
I've used Amsoil for years as well - it actually has a longer history than Mobil 1, and I consider it to be a slightly better product because of its composition and chemistry, but it's not carried by most shops and it's not as easy to get. I consider Redline to be a top product, but the warranty issue is a problem for any vehicle that's under warranty.
Valvoline and other oils are vastly superior to what they were even 20 years ago, and there are tons of good oils on the market.
I have "converted" many cars to synthetics at 80K to 100K miles and never had an engine problem as a result. I just buy the car, run a can of Gunk engine cleaner through it (following the directions carefully), then drain oil, install the new filter and synthetic oil. Nothing anyone can't do at home.
And keep in mind that Mobil 1 is a Group III hydrocracked conventional. It's called synthetic because it's molecularly modified. Group IV and Group V (Redline) are true synthetics.
Mobil 1 EP is Group IV, as I was saying earlier.
As to the original topic, I always prefer W30 over something lower, but you have to document what you use if you do your own changes and I'm always paranoid the dealer will use the viscosity deviation from the manual to screw me. I stick with the manual to 60K and then go nuts with Redline.
That API certification is probably fairly expensive to get. For those whose engines are out of warranty, it's not an issue. For those still under warranty, it's a good idea to stay with an oil that meets all manufacturer specs and labels.
Been using Mobil 1 since I bought my Toyota MR2 in 1989 (favorite car I've owned) and haven't used anything else since. Buy the 5 qt jugs at Walmart at a great price, you can't go wrong.
You can debate oil changes all you want, but if you follow the manufacturer's specs and do regular changes, I've never heard of a engine failure regardless of the brand/type of oil. Today's oils are just too good.