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post #16 of 48 Old 11-25-2008, 11:45 PM
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Well...at the very least you won't have an eye-sore looking thing hanging off the back of your MO. The stock receiver looks good. The others that hang off below the rear bumper look odd.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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post #17 of 48 Old 01-31-2009, 06:50 PM
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I see this thread is several months old yet if someone is reading I have a picture of my "non" factory 2 inch receiver (09 LE) hitch install in my gallery.

I will agree with Warhammer above that the factory hitch is a very nice and robust hitch - I went and looked at one. But it weighed a ton and was much more than needed unless you were going to max every ounce of towing capacity from your Mo.

The one I installed was less than a third of the cost and took me less than 45 min to install. Same as stock look from the rear.

Cheers

2009 LE
Glacier Pearl
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post #18 of 48 Old 02-01-2009, 11:44 AM
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This thread is primarily talking about hitches for pre 2009 muranos. The 09 has some decent looking aftermarket hitches, the earlier version do not.

2007 Murano SL w/ leather package: Briliant Silver with Charcoal interior, 20" Axis Orden rims (black), 265/50/20 Falken ZIEXS/TZ04 tires, Splash Guards, and G35 Aluminum Pedals.

Audio: Alpine PXE-H650 Imprint, Alpine MRV-F340 (4-channel amp), Alpine MRD-M300 (mono amp), Alpine type R 6.5" components (front) and type R 6.5" coaxials (rear) speakers, Kicker Solo-Baric L7 8" sub, Pac AAI-NIS2 (Aux), Pac IC-RCA (ipod charger), OEM Sirius, NAVTV2GO, Garmin GVN53, Garmin GTM12, Metra 2-Farad Cap, and Metra wiring. Amps and sub are built into rear floor. Spare tire and jack remain is stock locations.
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post #19 of 48 Old 02-01-2009, 06:26 PM
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Krush40,
I posted my remarks due to most looking at or "stumbling upon" this thread now days are probably or very likely considering a hitch for a new Mo. That's why I specified (09).

It's all good.

Cheers

2009 LE
Glacier Pearl
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post #20 of 48 Old 02-02-2009, 08:48 AM
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KJS ... I like you're a lot. What kind is it?

Also anyone have a pic like Kjs's that's a factory?

Thanks,
Mike

'09 Murano S with added moonroof.
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post #21 of 48 Old 02-02-2009, 08:55 AM
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kjs ... One other quickie -- Is there an armature or extra part that we need to get for the 09? It doesn't appear so ... but would appreciate your first hand knowledge.

Thanks,
mike

'09 Murano S with added moonroof.
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post #22 of 48 Old 02-02-2009, 12:18 PM
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The hitch I chose was the "Draw-Tite" / part # 75647 / ~$140 now.

Install involved removing the black tie-down loop on the drivers side frame (used when the vehicle was shipped from Japan), the center bumper cover support, then slipping the hitch in and installing 4-6 bolts (included w/hitch) etc.. All of the bolt holes you utilize are factory and pre-tapped. No other parts required and no removal of the exhaust required.

With the center bumper cover support removed you attach the bumper cover to the hitch after install etc. The hitch instructions have you zip-tying the bumper cover to the hitch yet I drilled two holes in the hitch and cover and installed factory clip-plugs etc. Very neat and tidy looking afterwords - not to mention very secure.

I have yet to install any electrical/lighting. My current use of the hitch is strictly for a luggage carrier.

Cheers

2009 LE
Glacier Pearl
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post #23 of 48 Old 04-02-2009, 01:10 PM
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Was wondering if anyone used this hitch?? Will be using it mostly for a motorcycle trailer.

http://hitches4less.com/nissan-muran...ler-hitch.html
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post #24 of 48 Old 04-16-2009, 10:48 PM
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Re: Factory Hitch Install -

Quote:
Originally posted by alanmeyer
Hello All,

I just installed the Nissan factory hitch on my 2004 SE this weekend. I wanted to write this post so that others that are considering installing the hitch themselves could get a better feel for what it takes.

Here's some background: I've spend weeks, if not months, researching hitches for the Murano. Mostly, it's been me dwelling on the right decision and coming to terms with the investment. The factory hitch is expensive. It cost me $353 for the hitch and $75 for the armature assembly. The wiring was $99, but I didn't buy it since I'm only going to use the hitch for a bike rack. The dealer wanted about $700 total for the parts and installation (including the wiring), so their install cost was around $250. 3rd party hitches are in the $150-$200 range w/o wiring. A couple of local dealers stated that they would install a 3rd party hitch for about $225 total including the hitch but w/o wiring. The problem with 3rd party hitches is that they don't look as good as the factory hitch. Some argue otherwise, but it's clear to me which is better. I decided that I wanted the benefit of the looks of the factory hitch but I would not give the dealer another $250 to install it. Was that the right decision? For me it was, but it may not be for everyone - read on!

As far as my abilities or mechanical inclination are concerned, I enjoy building and wrenching on things from time-to-time, but I am by no means highly skilled in auto repair (BTW, I push a mouse for a living in the computer industry).

Here's the summary: The hitch took me 6 hours to install 100% by myself. I know that other members have installed it in far less time, but that's what it took me. My time was measured starting at the point where I turned off the TV and my ass left the couch until I was able to restore my ass back to the couch.

Here's the gory details: Unlike others, I don't have my tools / workspace at the ready. In this case, it took me at least 30 minutes just to get the cars out of the garage, Murano rear wheels up on the ramps (~$30 from pep boys), tools out and ready, workspace cleared off, hitch box opened and parts removed, and lighting in place (I did my install in the evening which gave me the benefit of fewer interruptions, but made it more difficult to see so I needed my flourscent light and flashlight).

I spent another 30 minutes pre-reading the instructions, emptying out the 2nd row (I have 2 kid car seats in the 2nd row) and rear of the Murano (more kid stuff), folding down the rear seats, cleaning the bumper, and puting masking tape on the areas of the paint likely to come into contact during disassembly. Many of these steps are called out in the instructions. Mind you, I would never have guessed that a hitch install would affect the contents of the 2nd row seating in my car, but it did. It turns out that the instructions state that you use the interior of the Murano to hold the rear bumper (facia) while you're installing the hitch. The interior of the car is an effective and safe place to keep the bumper safe. Of course, you can skip this if you've got a clean, soft location to store the bumper (like an old piece of carpet).

Jumping ahead for the moment to when the install was done, I spent about an hour on cleanup. More importantly, I spent even more time having to charge the battery on the Murano because I let the battery run down too much by leaving the rear hatch open for over 5 hours (interior light on)!

The "main" steps to the install are fairly straightforward. The following is a summary (and not a detailed list) but should give you some idea of what's in store:

- Pop off covers/inserts for tail lights
- Unbolt / pop off tail lights
- Unbolt / pop off rear bumper (facia)
- Remove interior foam bumper (energy audi shock absorbers)
- Unbolt / remove armature
- Unbolt / remove heat plate
- Unbolt / unfasten and remove muffler
- Install hitch L-brackets (2)
- Install hitch
- Re-install muffler
- Install new heat plate
- Install new armature
- Re-install foam bumper
- Re-install rear bumper
- Re-install tail lights
- Re-install tail light inserts

During the install, most steps went very smoothly. The steps that did not go smoothly, how much extra time I spent on the step, and why are listed below:

Tail Lights (+30 minutes): These are a big pain. There are 2 bolts, and then there are a number of plastic bosses (tabs) that require you to pull hard at the proper angle (back and to the outside of the car) and hope for the best. I spent a lot of time trying to pull these out gently. In the end, I just had to keep applying force until they popped out. I got the first light OK, but one the second I broke one of the very small plastic alignment pins features. The bolts are still the primary holding force, so in the end I have no real concern. It was frustrating, though.

Rear Bumper (+30 minutes): I was really careful on this step no to scratch anything. I spent extra time trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything in the instructions.

Install Hitch (+1 hour): When you get to this step in the instructions, it tells you that 2 people should hold the hitch in place while it's being bolted to the frame. I agree that 2 people would be easier. I got around this by using a large cardboard box to prop up one end and bolt the other end. However, this was not my problem. The problem was that the holes in the hitch did not line up to the frame. The hitch is mounted with 14 bolts. Of those, there are 2 holes that bolt to the vertical wall of the frame (on the passenger side) that would not line up. What's worse is that these bolts are install *after* it's been mounted by other bolts. In my case, I had the hitch mounted and my "support rig" already put away when I realized that I had to take it all apart and re-install the bolts in a different order just to make it fit. I lost about an hour on this step alone.


In addition to the above, here are some other random thoughts regarding the install:

+ Nissan did a bad job with the standard armature assembly. We are basically forced to buy another version of a part that we already own. The differences between the standard armature and the hitch armature are some small cutouts for the hitch. If you had more time and had something to cut aluminum, I believe that you could modify your standard armature to fit around the hitch.

+ Removing the muffler was a lot easier than I thought. It's only a couple of bolts and some soap & water to allow the elastomers to slide of easier.

+ Have someone around to help you install the hitch. If you can't, then be sure to have some boxes or wood to help support one end of the hitch while you bolt the other end of the hitch. Also be sure to install all hitch bolts (loosely) before you go too far, just to ensure that the hitch assembly fits.

+ Buy masking tape ahead of time. I happened to have some art tape that has very low sticking force (to make it easy to remove), but you might need some tape if you didn't already

+ Be sure to check the tool list. You need some important tools like a torque wrench to ensure the proper install torque. Others have suggested an air wrench. I agree that would be best, but I would only use it for removal and to get bolts started. The torque specs in the instructions should be followed carefully.


So, there you have it. Anyone attempting to do this on their own may be able to take advantage of my experience.


Cheers,
-Alan
Yeah. I used to have the same situation like yours, I've been researching about these hitches. I also agree that Nissan did a bad job with the standard armature assembly, really.
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post #25 of 48 Old 12-20-2009, 09:56 PM
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I just installed my new Hitch in my MO 10, I have some comments about the electric wiring kit that I bought from etrailer.com this time, On my old MO 04 I bought a Nissan OEM wiring which is better than this one that I bought, two main things to consider here:
1. On the OEM wiring I saw in the installation manual that there is a 12V output in the back of the car designed to power the trailer, in fact this cable is fuse protected connected to the Fuse box in the motor compartment from factory, the general wiring kit asked you to send a power wire from the trunk all the way to the engine compartment and connect it to the battery post using a fuse holder, you wont need this!!!!!, I found the same connector on my MO10, it is a white (one point) connector, I tested against the fuse box and everything worked great.
2. In the OEM wiring kit there is a connector between the control box and the four pin connector (the one that actually goes outside to your trailer), allowing you to disconnect and route the wires properly from the inside to the outside via the rubber gasket in the back, but for saving costs in the general kit the four pin connector has no connector it is directly connected to the module and, guess what!!! the four pin connector is bigger than the hole in the body!!!!, there is a video from etrailer where a guy explained how to install this kit:

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Wiring-In...an-Murano.aspx

(LOOK AT 1:19 THE FACTORY INSTALLED WHITE 12V TRAILER OUTPUT CABLE TAPED TO THE WIRE HARNESS) but when he will route the four pin to the outside he just said...this is the four pin connector, you can leave it here or larger the hole.... keeping the cable inside makes no sense, but make the hole larger is worst,I do not recomend this!!, well you must cut these wires in order to route the cable via the rubber gasket and then you have to connect them again outside, solder, or whatever.

Both kits worked great, for $100 less the general kit is good but you can save time using the already 12V trailer output factory installed, but you will waste that time reconnecting the four pin cabling.

One important thing, in my MO10 the trailer fuse was INSTALLED!! which provides you 12V just there, during installation is better to remove this fuse.
In my MO04 this fuse was not installed so you have to do it to get the power to the cable.

2010 MO Limited Edition (LE version for Costa Rica), AWD, CVT with Shiftronic (6 Manual gears), Leather, I-key, power gate, Entertainment DVD, rear camera, BIXeon, power rear seats, power side mirrors, hidden hitch, Bel RX65 antiradar, OEM cargo mat
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post #26 of 48 Old 01-09-2011, 06:32 PM
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I can send you a better photo if you still need

Quote:
Originally Posted by krush40 View Post
Does anyone have a photo of the Quality S hitch installed?

What about the Reese?

Both of those look as though they won't be as visible as the HiddenHitch or Drawtite. Any advice?
This is an old thread, but I bought the Quality S for price only- I'd much rather prefer the hidden hitch look of the Nissan hitch, but I wanted to tow my boat last summer and this was the most affordable way to get going!

I am mechanically "inclined" so I found a video of the install on YouTube, brought my laptop out to the car with me and did the install in a couple of hours - it was hard to raise the hitch into place by myself but I rigged up blocks etc to rest it on to help.

If you are still looking, I'll send more pics.

Good luck!
Susann
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2015 Rogue S AWD
(I left the Murano's, just for a while tho!)
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post #27 of 48 Old 01-12-2011, 02:34 AM
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Nissan Hitch

Where would I find pictures of the factory hitch for a 2011 Murano? I only want it for a bike rack but don't want to ruin the great looks of the Mo.
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post #28 of 48 Old 01-12-2011, 08:38 AM
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Hitch

Look at Drawtite hitch. Just installed one on my 2011 and it looks great. The only thing showing is the 2" receiver. Herb
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post #29 of 48 Old 01-12-2011, 10:36 AM
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The 2nd gen MO's do seem to have a better time hiding aftermarket hitch receivers. The 1st gen MO's had the issue with eyesore bars between the exhaust tips if you went aftermarket. Don't go OEM if you can help it because new parts are extremely expensive. You can find used OEM parts at junk yards or something of the like.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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post #30 of 48 Old 01-12-2011, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmymac View Post
Where would I find pictures of the factory hitch for a 2011 Murano? I only want it for a bike rack but don't want to ruin the great looks of the Mo.


Opps, wrong pic posted here. I will post the correct pic later today when I return home. It will be a pic of the installed factory hitch on my 2011 Murano LE.

eeeee
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