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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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I just finished adding a 2006 inside rearview mirror with Homelink and built-in compass to my 2007 Murano. This post is to summarize and illustrate the process.
First, the stock basic 07 mirror snaps onto the windshield mount. Strong fingers can pry off the plastic cover on its bottom, and then press UP at the very front of the latch. The 06 Homelink mirror uses a setscrew to mount, but it attaches to the same mount on the windshield. There are three wires in the pigtail from the 06 mirror: Black-orange trace (switched power) Black-yellow trace (12V constant power) Black-silver dots (ground) The obvious place to get 12V constant power and ground connections is the interior lights which are in the headliner just above the mirror. Here's how to pop the light panel out of place: get your fingertips under the front of the panel (toward the windshield) and pull down firmly... ![]() The least resistance comes from pulling down in front. There are two plastic tabs on the end toward the back end of the car, so that end will not pull down. You can see the tabs in the photo below. Here's what it looks like when dangling... ![]() I extended the wires on the pigtail and used a coat hanger to fish them under the front of the headliner and into the cavity revealed by removing the light panel. Here's what the connections looked like... ![]() You will find that the YELLOW wire going to the light panel is the 12V power wire. A basic clamp-on quick connect can be used to get power from it. In the picture above, I used a white quick-connector. The ground connection is visible but in shadow. There are two bolts inside the cavity, either of which can be used for your ground connection. I put a Y-bit on the end of the ground wire, backed one bolt out a couple of turns, slid the Y-bit under it and then snugged the bolt. That handled 2 out of 3 connections. Since the power to the lights is fused, I didn't need to add a fuse to this power connection. The final connection needed is switched power. The logical place to get it is from the fuse panel next to the driver's left knee. By pulling at the top of the trim panel which runs up the inside of the A-pillar, it will pop off. I fished a 14-gauge wire down through the dash, and ran it along the existing wire harness up to the headliner, securing it with small cable ties... ![]() Once I got it up to the headliner, I found that it was pretty easy to tuck it behind the front edge of the headliner and pull it into the same light panel cavity. The headliner is not clipped or secured in front, so it's easy to tuck the wire up over the front edge of the headliner. I left myself plenty of extra wire on both ends, then snapped the interior panel back onto the A-pillar. Now comes the 12V switched connection. I found that on the left side of the fuse panel below the fuse puller, there are three open positions. Using a digital multimeter, I determined that in the top-most open fuse position, the right side contacts had 12V when the key was on or in accessory. (Yours may differ but it's easy to check with a multimeter.) The first connection I made was to cut one side off a Y-bit connector and slide it between the contacts. Here's a photo showing the modified connector, then the connection in place.... ![]() ![]() But I still wanted to fuse this connector...and I found something cool! At Checker auto parts, I found a Littelfuse Mini Add-A-Circuit. Part number is FHM200BP OFHM0200ZP..Cost was $9.95. This is a unit that plugs into an existing mini-fuse position, and has TWO circuits. One allows you to complete the original circuit using a mini-fuse, and the other position allows you to fuse the new circuit, and provides a pigtail ready for you to crimp a wire onto. I pulled the 10 amp fuse for the radio which is the second position below the fuse puller. The label on the removable fuse panel label said this was the mirror circuit, but I found it powered the radio in my S model. It's not hard to guess that when you buy the optional Homelink mirror, that fuse powers mirror and radio, so it seemed like a good candidate. I used a 7.5 amp fuse for the mirror, mainly because the fuse was in the package with the adapter, and it seemed like plenty of capacity for the mirror. Here is a photo of the Mini Add-A-Circuit with both fuses in place...you can see that the built-in pigtail is attached next to the 7.5 amp fuse..... ![]() And one photo showing the adapter in position with the wire to the mirror connected. Of course after taking this photo I tucked everything neatly into place. ![]() Incidentally, the Nissan fuses in the panel don't look like standard mini-fuses, but a standard mini-fuse WILL replace them OK. I hope this helps others.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,738
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Thanx for the photos and the clear explanation. -njjoe
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2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 6,041
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Great DIY. Thank you!
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2004 SL AWD - Super Black - Leather Package (Café latte) - Tow Package - Floor Mats - Splash Guards - Cargo Area Protector - Rear Bumper Protector - Front Window Tint - Dawn Color Matched Body Side Molding – Day Time Running Lights - PAC-NIS1 Aux Audio input - Pressure Pro TPMS and Anti Theft Sensor Locks - 7" Xenarc VGA Touchscreen - Compaq EVO e-PC 2.0 GHz Pentium 4 Carputer with 120GB HD, DSATX PSU / Shutdown Controller, Road Runner Front End, iGuidance 3.0 Navigation, DVD player, Internet access, XM satellite radio, Deluo GPS receiver, Linksys WiFi Antenna, TERK XM antenna - Tweeter 22uF CAP mod - Magnetbra - Custom Backup Camera - Aries Polished Stainless Steel Sidestep (nerf) Bars - Euro-Tech Nudge Bar - Homemade Lower Grill Cover - Auxiliary Projection Fog Lamps - Aluminum Fuel Tank Shields - Wade Window Deflectors - Nissan Sunroof Deflector - Scosche UBRH Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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Thanks kindly! Others here have done a nice job of photo-documentation, so i try to help out as well.
BTW - all the photos I posted above were taken with the camera in my HTC Hero phone. It's amazing how much those cameras have improved - this one is 5 megapixels. There's no flash, but it seems to have a considerable range of exposure.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 41
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Excellent write-up and pics Pilgrim! This is quite a coincidence since I have been thinking of wiring 'permanent' power to my battery powered radar detector. I do have the 'home link/compass mirror installed in my 2004 SL and thought that might provide a power source.
JimB |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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It's easy and you have the photos you need. Just pop the panel, clamp onto the light power and use the ground. Run the wire out the front of the headliner and tuck on behind a sun visor when not on use. I did the same on my 280zx.
The wires for the Homelink mirror aren't very heavy gauge - I'd probably go up to the light panel rather than take power from the mirror.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hi Piligriim,
Today I followed your pictures and connected the way you said, I found there is some problem, I think you can answer this question: 1. I had three wires from rare view mirror - Yellow, Red/Black and Black 2. When I connected Black to ground, and Yellow to room light, the mirror started working without connecting Red/Black wire at fuse box, I think its getting constant power from room light without putting the key in. 3. So, i tried to connect Red/Black wire to fuse but no change. I want this mirror gets power when i put keys, HOW do i do that ? Thanks in advance and your pictures helped a lot Srivick
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Nissan Murano 2006 S AWD Added: 1. Xenon Head Lights 2. Xenon Fog Lights 3. Auto Lighting sensors 3. Tweeters 4. DVD Roofunit 5. Ipod Interface-Factory 6. Backup Camera 7. Homelink-Compass-Rareview Mirror Future:1. Navigation in Factory Screen 2. 8-way seat adjustments 3. Roof Rails 4. Trailer Hitch |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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You simply need to get the circuits correct. You have three wires:
One is a ground One needs 12V hot all the time, because it powers the garage door openers One needs 12V only when the ignition is on, to power the compass and mirror Check wiring diagrams for your vehicle and you will be able to figure it out. Black is usually ground, and it appears that yellow is the mirror circuit, so that just leaves the red/black wire. My guess is that red/black goes to 12V on, and that yellow goes to 12V switched.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hi Piligrim,
I think i connected other way round, because i am getting constant power for mirror and compass, so I will go now and change the wires and see what happens, Thanks for your quick reply. Thanks Srivick
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Nissan Murano 2006 S AWD Added: 1. Xenon Head Lights 2. Xenon Fog Lights 3. Auto Lighting sensors 3. Tweeters 4. DVD Roofunit 5. Ipod Interface-Factory 6. Backup Camera 7. Homelink-Compass-Rareview Mirror Future:1. Navigation in Factory Screen 2. 8-way seat adjustments 3. Roof Rails 4. Trailer Hitch |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Posts: 1,206
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Though I no longer own the MO, I just got the Homelink with compass and temp for my new car. They are sold by Gentex, you can do a search and you go right to their site. They gave me a local authorized dealer in my neck of the woods or the option to buy it on-line.
Here is the question, since I did not have a home-link, I needed to do this upgrade. My mirror with compass and temp display listed for $399.00. I got it local for $346.00. The guy offed to do it and run the temp probe for 45 bucks. For me it was a no brainer. Let him knock himself out as I would have been befuddled with all that. I may have attempted myself but it was really reasonable to have them do it and know it was done right. So here it is, the Mo already has a Homelink, to change it for the one I got would have just added a compass. The Mo already has a temp gauge on the dash and a homelink. That is one expensive upgrade just to add a compass. Am I missing something? Maybe it was a base Mo that did not have the homelink to begin. Then it makes way more sense to me. Bob1
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Former 2004 SL/Polished Pewter 2WD 2004 Infiniti G-35 2 door Coupe 2010 V6 highlander/Blizzard Pearl |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hi Piligrim,
You were right and very helpful, I changed connections and it worked perfectly and I had to calibrate compass and it works fine. Thank you very much for the help. I have one question, I can see only Directions -N-S-NW-W-SW, but i cant see temperature, do you have any idea how does it work or is there any extra wiring to get temperature on homelink. Bob, I think you spent too much for your homelink mirror, I bought on Ebay for 50 dollars and installed with help of Piligrim and his clear pictures-Total cost of project was $60. I have one extra which i am planning to give it to my father-in-law for his old ford truck in Mexico Thanks
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Nissan Murano 2006 S AWD Added: 1. Xenon Head Lights 2. Xenon Fog Lights 3. Auto Lighting sensors 3. Tweeters 4. DVD Roofunit 5. Ipod Interface-Factory 6. Backup Camera 7. Homelink-Compass-Rareview Mirror Future:1. Navigation in Factory Screen 2. 8-way seat adjustments 3. Roof Rails 4. Trailer Hitch |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Posts: 1,206
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Quote:
Uhhh, maybe you can't see the temp because it was 50 bucks on e-bay? Just kidding but check out the Gentex site. Check the mirrors and prices shown here: Gentex HomeLink® Auto-dimming Mirrors from MITO Corporation Excellence in Electronics for Auto, Car, Truck, SUV, RV and Boats Bob1
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Former 2004 SL/Polished Pewter 2WD 2004 Infiniti G-35 2 door Coupe 2010 V6 highlander/Blizzard Pearl |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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I suspect the temp gauge is a separate circuit, and it obviously requires a connection to a sensor somewhere. Don't forget you already have a temp sensor in your center dash display...so you really don't need one in your mirror.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Figured I'd add on here instead of create a new thread. One step is missing from this, and that's calibrating the compass. This is especially important if you get a compass from anything but a local junkyard since chances are it's going to be set to the wrong zone.
There are two steps, selecting your magnetic zone and then driving in circles to calibrate the compass. It's easiest to go to a parking lot with room to drive in a circle and just do both at the same time. Press and hold the compass button until a number displays. Keep pressing the compass button to select your appropriate zone from the map below. ![]() Wait a few seconds and the number should change to a "C". Once "C" is displayed drive slowly in a circle until the compass updates to directions. To be safe I did 2 full circles even though the compass started updating after 3/4th of a circle. If the "C" doesn't appear simply shut off the car, remove key, re-start and hold the compass button until "C" appears. First the number will come up but if you keep holding it the "C" will appear next. I was really surprised this info wasn't in the owner's manual under the homelink programming section. My Expedition had a similar procedure outlined in the owners manual for setting up it's compass. |
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