Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Rate Thread|
for all the ones that replaced the fuel dampers... are they the same part?
I mean do they look the same? cuz i found some online but it doesn't ask me which one I need. for instance the wiper blades, one is longer than the other one therefore the part numbers are diferent. is this not the case with the fuel dampers? thanks
No problem, this place is like that, people leave helpful tips and you will see many former owners hang around for chit-chat.
JTRC51 is right on in that post above, he pin pointed what you need to do.
i have a 2003 with 119203 miles on it... it was making a loud noise in the cabin too, you could not hear it under the hood.took it to my local dealer he found the noise,, it was the transmission.. but good news Nissan extend the warranty to 120000 so they would replace it free...had to order one. took it back in a couple of days and they repaced it..took a week they had trouble getting the new one in.. picked it up and drove off.. noise i heard was still there and an new noise now... went back to the dealer to check new noise out.. took them about an hour and reported the new noise was the fuel dampers... I decided to get a second opinion... they said they thought it was the fuel pump making the noise.. so now I don't know what to do.. don't want to spend a lot of money on the car and it might not get fixed... still driving the car 4 months later have put 5000 miles on it...still have the problem but it is not getting louder mechanic said it is not going to hurt anything to drive it.. anyone had this problem?
I just got done replacing the rear Fuel Damper and not ticking at all I hope this is the fix. It only took me a total of about 30 min. Here is what I did.
Take off the engine cover (5) 5mm Allen wrench screws.
Loosen (2) hose clamps that hold the air intake system Flat or regular blade screw driver, one by the manifold and one by the air filter. Move the air intake assembly out of the way.
Take out the (2) 10mm bolts that hold the damper to the fuel rail. About 1/3 of a cup of fuel will come out of the fuel rail. I put a small cup under the damper to catch it. Not much of a mess at all, I did not pull the fuse from the fuel pump.
There are a couple of clamps to remove that just slide over hoses to hold the hose together.
Use a pliers to squeeze the compression fitting to disconnect the fuel line from the damper line.
Take the green clip that came with the new damper and put it on the fuel line from the car and snap the line connectors together.
Put the Damper onto the fuel bar with (2) 10mm screws.
Then just reverse the order. Put the hose clamps on, put air intake back on and tighten the clamps, then put the engine cover back on.
Like I said it took me 30 min and I am not a mechanic. I bought the part from PartsGeek for $111 and I think the dealer would have charged me $300 or more. I forgot to check if the dampers make any noise but I do not hear anything in the car at all. If you think about it, the rear damper supplies the front damper and in my case both dampers were making the ticking noise. If the rear damper is bad the front damper is going to make noise as well because the rear feeds the front. I am not mechanic but that is my philosophy. If I need to replace the front damper I will, but for now I am going to keep the $75 in my pocket. I hope this post helps others who are have a ticking noise in their car.
|Rate This Thread|