That Pesky P0011 - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 05-09-2010, 09:35 PM
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That Pesky P0011

So I got an 03 Nissan Murano SL that has been giving me the P0011 error code frequently.

Currently I've changed the oil, verified the oil level, and changed the spark plugs.

Just a few things I've read as a suggestion.

Random Info:

Bank 1 - Right Hand (RH) Side = Closest to Firewall

Bank 2 - Left Hand (LH) side = Closest to Radiator.

I still have a few things to do, but what I am going to do now is check the oil pressure at the Oil Pressure switch above the oil pan. If that check out with the Measurement I have from the Field Service manual, then I am going to just swap the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve and camshaft position sensor at the same time so that I do not have to dig in there again to deal with them.

Now with that said I have a some amateur questions.

1. Before I go blow $300 on both the solenoid and sensor and replace them both on Bank 1, is there a cheaper way to determine which has gone bad?

Here are the two links I am looking at for now. I have yet to shop around for better deals.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/23796-v...-p-528544.html

http://www.courtesyparts.com/23731ma...ml?cPath=5226&

I appreciate any help in advance.
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#2 Old 05-10-2010, 09:57 AM
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After reading a few posts, I am thinking of focusing on the camshaft sensor.

Here is why:

1. When we start the car, it starts up then dies immediately unless the gas pedal is pushed.

Anyone else care to add to help?
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#3 Old 05-10-2010, 10:12 AM
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Re: That Pesky P0011

Quote:
Originally posted by Spontan
Before I go blow $300 on both the solenoid and sensor and replace them both on Bank 1, is there a cheaper way to determine which has gone bad?
Here's the Service Manual's procedure for checking the solenoid.

I hope it helps.

-njjoe
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2005 SL AWD, Platinum
-OEM HID conversion & HID fogs
-OEM iPod interface
-Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R
-Muth signal mirrors
-Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness
-Aluminum fuel tank shields
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#4 Old 05-10-2010, 01:46 PM
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Thank You for the Diagram. I was considering purchasing a decent multi-meter a few months back, but never got around to it. I might do so shortly.
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#5 Old 05-10-2010, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spontan
Thank You for the Diagram. I was considering purchasing a decent multi-meter a few months back, but never got around to it. I might do so shortly.
Good idea. I probably use mine at least once a week between the house and the cars.

2007 Murano
2009 BMW 328xi
1983 280ZX Turbo
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#6 Old 05-10-2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spontan
After reading a few posts, I am thinking of focusing on the camshaft sensor.

Here is why:

1. When we start the car, it starts up then dies immediately unless the gas pedal is pushed.

Anyone else care to add to help?
Did you recently disconnect the battery for an extended (> 1 hour) period of time? The reason I ask is because the MO is notorious for needing an "Idle Relearn procedure" whenever the battery is disconnected for that long.

-njjoe

2005 SL AWD, Platinum
-OEM HID conversion & HID fogs
-OEM iPod interface
-Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R
-Muth signal mirrors
-Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness
-Aluminum fuel tank shields
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#7 Old 05-10-2010, 08:01 PM
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I haven't disconnected the battery but that doesn't mean it hasn't been done. I could try the relearn process.

I haven't had any other trouble accelerating or anything because of it. I did get slight lag accel after the service engine light triggered but that was to be expected from the computer controlling the car.

I found a post on how to do quite a bit of it on your own.

Bad gas mileage
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#8 Old 05-12-2010, 04:04 PM
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Just an update, I did the relearn process from the posts on the link above by WarHammer.

So first, Thnx Warhammer!

Secondly, I could not tell much of a difference after doing the Re-Learn processes. However, I cleared the CEL and will be attempting to get it to happen again.

The idle does seem a little rough still, but I need to let the car cool down before I figure out if it still dies on initial start.
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#9 Old 05-13-2010, 01:40 PM
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I'm thinking that part of the relearn is measuring the output of the MAF sensor. Have you taken out your MAF sensor and cleaned it? Might be worth doing if you have a rough idle. Maybe it's not providing a correct reading.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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#10 Old 05-13-2010, 02:18 PM
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Thanks again WarHammer for the information. I will give the MAF a clean just for kicks and giggles.

Progress Update: After I let the car cool all the way down and then start it, It started up with no issues and sounded decently good.

I just started it again this morning first thing and it fired up fine as well. So the starting and dying immediately part appears to be corrected. (I hope).

I think the people I got it off of might have left the battery out too long.

Do you think the low RPMs/Bad Idle might have contributed to the P0011 code? I will be putting around 50 miles tomorrow. Still waiting to see what could happen.
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#11 Old 05-13-2010, 02:46 PM
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Off of a cold start the engine will not die regardless of the Idle Air Volume Relearn parameters. You should notice it die after you run it for a while, stop the engine, let it sit for a moment, then fire it up again. The Idle Air Volume Relearn parameters are for a warm engine only I believe.

If you do clean the MAF sensor, don't touch it with anything! Just remove it with care, spray it, reinstall, and you're done. Just spray it with a quick electrical contact cleaner and let it dry for a moment and you should be good to go.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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#12 Old 05-13-2010, 03:05 PM
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Interesting. I thought it may have been that the idle relearn process would factor into the "choke" factor when starting the engine up. Like how much the engine should idle up in the mornings to compensate.

I pulled the MAF and luckily I held it by the connector and did not touch it. I didn't have any liquid spray on me atm so I hit it with electronic duster spray. That aside, the thing looked really new. Still shiny and no dust on it.
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#13 Old 05-13-2010, 11:38 PM
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Update: I ran an errand and the light came back on. I haven't ran it in to my extremely close auto parts supplier yet, but I'm fairly certain it is the same P0011 code that has been coming up.

Also, now when I start the car, it revs up then dies. This means that the car is compensating for the error code being on and this is what is causing my car to die.

In case anyone was interested....
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#14 Old 05-14-2010, 12:15 PM
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Well, I would double check the code to make 100% sure it is the same. Then it's time to research what the code means and what sensors need to be checked. I have no idea what the rationale behind the P0011 code but I know it's in the service manual.

I'll trust Njjoe's attachment is correct. He's usually right anyway.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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#15 Old 05-14-2010, 12:25 PM
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I dove into the Service Manual for my 04 MO and found the following about P0011. Make sure you get the codes read because if this P0011 code shows up with another code you're troubleshooting steps will be different.

You may he touched on this earlier, but you need to inspect the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. If they read good, then you need to remove the Bank 1 valve cover and inspect for debris on the signal pick-up plate.

FYI: IVT stands for Intake Valve Timing.

It would make sense that you're Idle Air Volume Relearn didn't work if the engine is not working up to par.
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After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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