Replaced the Alternator...still having problems!

[BuckeyeBobcat]

I have a 2004 Murano, which I bought used. My alternator went out a few days ago, and took the wire harness plug with it (the two pieces literally melted together).

I was able to get a new plug (which fits but did not click in) and put on a new alternator, yet the Brake & Battery lights are still on (which I know is an indicator of an imminent alternator problem). I have hooked the battery up to a voltage reader and when I press the gas pedal, the meter goes up, indicating that the battery IS indeed charging from the new alternator.

In addition, yesterday when I was driving home, the car all of the sudden went in to idle only mode where no matter how far I pressed the gas pedal, the engine would not go above 900 rpms, yet also stayed around 600 rpms without the pedal pressed.

I am thinking this may be a computer/electrical/fuse issue but: Can anyone help me or suggest a starting point?

[ekaxel]

Bad /dead battery??

[Pilgrim]

With the sophistication of today's cars, I reluctantly suggest you take it to a dealer for a charging system test. Better than taking a chance on frying something.

Although - if the battery is really old, that could be a part of the problem.

[njjoe]

BB-

Welcome to the forum.

I have two questions for you - Did you happen to save the old alternator? Are you aware of the alternator recall? In 2005 Nissan announced a recall that involved the MO's alternator. If your MO still had the original alternator Nissan may reimburse you for the repairs. Contact Nissan Consumer Affairs at 800-647-7261, give them your VIN and they will tell you if your MO had the recalled alternator. If so, they may pick up the tab for the repair.

Good luck.

-njjoe

[ekaxel]

"I reluctantly suggest you take it to a dealer for a charging system test"

Any good battery/auto electric shop (even Sears!) can do this test. You DO NOT have to go to the dealer!

[Pilgrim]

Originally Posted by ekaxel

"I reluctantly suggest you take it to a dealer for a charging system test"

Any good battery/auto electric shop (even Sears!) can do this test. You DO NOT have to go to the dealer!

You're a man after my own heart. I agree, avoid the dealer when possible.

[BuckeyeBobcat]

Thanks for the replies! I checked with the dealership & the original alternator was replace per the recall. In addition, I put in a new battery and tested both the new battery & new alternator before installing.

[nitely]

Originally Posted by BuckeyeBobcat

Thanks for the replies! I checked with the dealership & the original alternator was replace per the recall. In addition, I put in a new battery and tested both the new battery & new alternator before installing.

Its possible to get a bad batch of alternators, from say kragen which I experienced in the '90s, for my civic. I changed 3 alternators in a 2 year span where all failed after a several months of used---blown/melted my turn signal switch was the last straw--they finally changed distributor/brand of alternator which solved the problem. However, I think unless you have noticed any electrical surges or flactuations, maybe you should look somewhere else for the problem like the throttle position sensor or a cvt sensor.

[BuckeyeBobcat]

Thanks for the help. I did replace the CVT fluid (even though dealers tell you to "never" replace it) & when I ran the code reader, the only two that pop up both have to do with my air intake (P1168 & P1051). After being stuck, I did take it to the dealer & they replaced the wire harness connector & another wire, both of which were failing and caused the new alternator to burn out as well...funny thing is that when I called dealership to get wire harness connector, they would not sell me one b/c "we do not carry individual pieces." Yet when I took it to them for the service, this piece 'magically' appears...at least it runs!

[clarkandrew45]

Originally Posted by nitely

Its possible to get a bad batch of alternators, from say kragen which I experienced in the '90s, for my civic. I changed 3 alternators in a 2 year span where all failed after a several months of used---blown/melted my turn signal switch was the last straw--they finally changed distributor/brand of alternator which solved the problem. However, I think unless you have noticed any electrical surges or flactuations, maybe you should look somewhere else for the problem like the throttle position sensor or a cvt sensor.

I think you and my friend have the same scenario. We have ordered alternators from eBay a few months ago, but happens to be a bad set after four weeks. Thanks for this advice about the electrical surges thing mate.

[kobayashi maru]

Reviving an old thread... OP have you had any issues after replacing the wire harness?

I had my alternator replaced a year ago (recall was already serviced) and since the summer the battery and brake lights have been flickering occasionally, sometimes often. Recently, I had two incidents when the lights came on solid and I lost accelerator control for a few seconds. I suspect it's a wiring issue or other intermittent electrical problem but another bad alternator wouldn't surprise me either. Just wondering if your problem ever came back.

I'm hoping the MO runs ok until the winter is over so I can take a better look in there.

[JayS]

The OP has 3 posts and hasn't been on since 07-31-2010 11:08 AM.... I don't think he's going to update this post.

Start with basic. Load test your battery, load test your alternator.

[nitely]

What alternator did you put there? OEM or aftermarket? Like JayS said test the alternator and battery. Could be a loose connections too.

[kobayashi maru]

Hmm yea, didn't notice the OP's stats. The battery was replaced relatively recently, at least after the issue began. I didn't know the alternator could be load tested but I will give it a shot, thanks!
A local shop did the work on the alternator but I believe it's a rebuilt aftermarket.