2005 Murano Battery nightmare - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 10-13-2010, 01:48 PM
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Question 2005 Murano Battery nightmare

Hi all,

here is my problem. I had to replace my battery in July so I took it to a local mechanic and for $100 he put in a group 35 battery as suggested my the parts computer.

A few weeks ago my car nearly died, hardly accepted any acceleration so I took it to Nissan and they tell me that because of the WRONG battery it messed up the electronics and they have to replace it with a group 24 battery and reprogram all for $400.

The original place will refund me my money but WHY is there a WRONG battery in the parts list, they actually did nothing wrong they just happen to be cool to give me a refund.

What I like to know, 1 why is that so expensive to replace a battery and 2 how can the correct battery be put on that parts list.

Whos fault is it to start with?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Steve
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#2 Old 10-13-2010, 02:00 PM
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Group 35 battery is the CORRECT battery. Whoever told yoiu group 24 doens not know what they are talking about! Problem is probably needs a computer reset from the battery disconnect...

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#3 Old 10-13-2010, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stfarm View Post
Hi all,

here is my problem. I had to replace my battery in July so I took it to a local mechanic and for $100 he put in a group 35 battery as suggested my the parts computer.

A few weeks ago my car nearly died, hardly accepted any acceleration so I took it to Nissan and they tell me that because of the WRONG battery it messed up the electronics and they have to replace it with a group 24 battery and reprogram all for $400.

The original place will refund me my money but WHY is there a WRONG battery in the parts list, they actually did nothing wrong they just happen to be cool to give me a refund.

What I like to know, 1 why is that so expensive to replace a battery and 2 how can the correct battery be put on that parts list.

Whos fault is it to start with?
Someone is handing you a huge line of BS. I put a Group 35 Optima Red Top in my 04 SE about a year ago. In case there was a change between 04 and 05 (however unlikely that would have been), I googled Optima and the same Group 35 is specified for the 05's that I put in my 04.
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#4 Old 10-13-2010, 02:20 PM
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but group 35 vs group 24 vs <group whatever> really is just a difference in dimensions and terminal type, right? They're all still 12v batteries. If they're connected properly and fit (don't wiggle too much, nothing else touches the contacts) then how could it possibly cause problems?

As to the COST of replacing a battery, it should really be cheap. The labor required to replace a battery is hardly anything, you can easily do it yourself. Of course, just purchasing the battery can vary drastically, depending on if you get a crappy little $40 one or an expensive Optima, and if you ask the question "which one to get" you'll get several hundred different opinions (or links to other threads on this forum with those opinions).

The real key with the Murano when changing out the battery is that you need to do it relatively quickly (less than 30 mins, I think?), or the computer forgets some settings and you have to go through the idle relearn process. Try search for "idle" or "idle relearn" or "idle program" or just "battery replacement" on this forum and you should find some good posts about it.

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#5 Old 10-13-2010, 06:20 PM
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yeah what a load of BS!! a 12V car battery is a 12V car battery and putting in a different group size will NOT hurt a car as long as the battery is in good condition.

WORST case. lets say you have a tiny battery and you connect up a GIANT 12V truck battery. it will take more current from the alternator to charge that giant battery and this could cause the alternator to overheat and you could burn up the alternator. But you would NOT in anyway cause any sort of damage to the electronics.

The electrical difference between a group 24 and 35 battery is so insignificant that it doesn't matter. In ANY battery, the only 2 factors that are important electrically are voltage and Amp/hr capacity or sometimes called RC reserve capacity. don't be fooled by all the advertising cold cranking amps hype BS. CCA only means how much current could you get from the battery for a very short duration at some freezing temp. what you need is RESERVE capacity, how long can you crank that dead frozen motor over before the battery is dead. those tiny high CCA batteries..crank crank dead!. big giant truck sized batteries. hell you could crank it till the morning light and it still wont be dead!

and the only difference between a 24 and a 35 is a little bit of RC

But making such a claim is real real easy when you think a flashlight is complicated you know?

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#6 Old 10-13-2010, 06:54 PM
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As others have said group 35 is the correct type for a Murano. Problem is something else but it could be very simple to solve.

My Murano did something similar to this when I replaced its battery several years ago. I bought a brand new one from Costco and installed it. A few days later the battery died on me so I took it back and got another battery, just to have that die on me a couple of weeks later too. I knew something was up so this time instead of taking the battery back I hooked it up to a trickle charger without taking it out of the car. 24 hours later I started my MO and it has been a perfect battery since.... Go figure...

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#7 Old 10-13-2010, 08:01 PM
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As others have stated above, there was probably nothing wrong with your battery at all. What happened was the shop took too long with the battery disconnected, necessitating a reprogramming of the computer to relearn the factory settings. $400? That's pricey, but then that's the cost of having done the job incorrectly the first time. You can do the idle air relearn procedure yourself - just search for it here. Its obviously easier for the dealer to do it using their special computer though.

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#8 Old 10-13-2010, 08:26 PM
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Has anyone successfully used the idle relearn without the dealer? I have never been able to make it work.

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#9 Old 10-13-2010, 09:55 PM
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Has anyone successfully used the idle relearn without the dealer? I have never been able to make it work.
is that even possible without dealer computer ?
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#10 Old 10-14-2010, 12:07 AM
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The way I read your problem is that after the battery change in July the car was running fine. Issues on the acceleration--gas pedal none responsive--limp mode--started a few weeks ago. This could be a totally different problem and has nothing to do with the battery.

When you said "my car nearly died", do you mean it will not start--weak battery? Were you experiencing erratic idling? Did you ever needed a jump start after battery replacement? If not, then its a different problem.

If you are referring to the none responsive gas pedal when you said "my car nearly died", it maybe a bad throttle sensor.

Size 35 is fine but if you have intelligent key then you need the bigger size 24. I think its a 582 vs 720 cca.

Now if you have intel key this could cause the battery drain but if you were able to start without problems then its not the battery. No idle relearn needed.

I will not be surprised if the dealer will try to scare you to buy a bigger battery--if you have intel key. But that should not cause the acceleration none responsiveness. This is assuming that you never had problems starting the car and no erratic idling with the new battery and all problems you referring to/experienced was while driving the car. Its possible that even after dealer do their $400 battery change and reprogram you will still haved the acceleration problem.
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#11 Old 10-15-2010, 03:27 PM
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Angry

Thank you everybody for your feedback. I did have any options with the dealer, they just told me what I needed to get the car fixed and since this is my wife's car and I was working in a different city I just went for whatever they told me.

What is my recourse now? The car is driving ok so I guess it must have been the battery but I feel really screwed over bad.

I like to go back to Nissan but I am just not sure what I could tell them after the fact.

Thank you again for all your input.

Steve
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#12 Old 04-02-2012, 04:07 PM
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Sorry for waking up a dead thread, but I'm hoping someone will see this.

I have a 2005 Murano that is doing the exact thing that was stated in the OP, except this all happened BEFORE a battery change.

I can start it and it idles fine. but when I press the gas pedal... nothing. No revs.. nothing. then, maybe 5 or 10 seconds later (keeping the pedal pressed) the revs start creeping up and I start to move. Slowly at first, then eventually I'm up to speed.

This only happens after I come to a (nearly) complete stop. Once I'm going, the car drives fine.

I eneded up changing the battery anyway, since the one in there started making the computer throw random error codes. After I replaced the battery, I took it to the dealer and told them what was happenning.

"Idle relearn is all you need" they said.

1 week later and they still can't figure out what's happenning.

So, any tips?
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#13 Old 04-02-2012, 07:48 PM
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They finally figured it out. Transmission Valve body is done. So.. they are replacing the transmission.
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