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#406 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,740
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Quote:
-njjoe
__________________
2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#407 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,415
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Quote:
....I just think that doing the welding route would be cheaper and more sturdy and permanent. |
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#408 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
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I just had mine welded and it cost me $25, with a material stronger than the parent material. I do not expect it to break.
30 minutes of my time to remove the seat, clean it a little, take it to a welder, he mig welded it, and it cost me 30 minutes and $25. I would recommend this to everybody, instead of wasting your time at the dealer and spending a lot more money :-) |
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#409 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 2
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Yes a lot of problems, but all known as very common issues from what I am reading.
Regarding goodwill, Nissan pays for part and dealer pays for labor. In my case dealer wouldn't cover the labor so I have to pay it (although they didn't tell me that, I figured it out). The part is the new one as dealer had to order from Nissan and it took them a week to get. I wanted to get it welded, but I think frame is permanently tweaked so it's worth the labor charge since its new motors, gears, frame, etc (at least to me). Plus I'll get the 1 year warranty so I'll check joint in a year and if there are any signs of stress I'll get it replaced. Overall, I hate spending the money, but hope issues are fixed.
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2006 SL AWD - TVandNAV2Go - iPhone A/V Integration |
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#410 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 354
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This whole issue is so much Bull****. Nissan knows good and well that this is a common failure that wouldnt' take a major chunk out of their accounts receiveable to fix right....but they continue to shrug and pretend that this is an intermittent problem that they don't need to address in a formal way. This is the sort of issue that drives me absolutely nuts when you consider how much this would cost them as opposed to the PR and goodwill that they'd garner from just admitting that there's a manufacturing defect in the seating gearing. When I'm done driving my Murano, it will be the last Nissan I buy....strictly because of the irresponsible way they've dealt with so many of the recurrent issues that become a common denominator after repeated failures.
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2009 Murano LE, white/tan, 48K miles; with all the amenities you can pack into this thing. Whoever had it first was obviously a doo-dad guy. Can't watch DVD movies because the headrest screens are facing backwards!! |
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#411 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,740
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Quote:
-njjoe
__________________
2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#412 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 1,547
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Or FORTUNATELY, for those of us who haven't had this problem and, if we ever did, want to be reassured that our safety won't be compromised. My (educated) guess is that WAY more Muranos haven't been - and won't be - affected by this broken seat issue than have been.
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#413 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
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Sorry for this being my first post after all this time, but I've basically only used this forum for issues. My 2004 Murano has generally been a good car and I've really liked it mostly. I'm up to 160,000+ miles and I hope to get 200,000. I just got a new 370Z so I need the 'ol Murano to hang in there during winter months and grocery getting.
Anyway, my seat has squeaked and rocked slightly for years now, but I've just lived with it. This morning when I got in the left side rear just cracked and dropped about an inch. I had remembered seeing this thread a long time ago so I decided to see what I could find. Looks like the cheapest fix is to pull out the seat using the service bulletin steps 1 - 9, take it to Meineke and have them weld it, then put it back in. No way in hell I'm spending $1000 to have it replaced. Is this the general take on this issue? Thanks for your input to a new guy. Cheers ---- Bonzo
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2004 SE |
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#414 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,740
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Bonzo-
Welcome to the forum.... old-timer (2009). ![]() From what I understand you have four options: 1) Approximately $1,200 gets you a brand-spanking-new seat frame from Nissan. ![]() 2) For "only" $400 Nissan can replace the lifter assembly (p/n: 87473-CA01A). This option became available less than one year ago. ![]() 3) For $100 (or less) a reputable machine shop can weld your existing frame. However, you will need to remove the seat to gain clear (and safe) access to the broken piece. ![]() 4) Just live with it. ![]() -njjoe
__________________
2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#415 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15
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Nitely,
Let me ask you, I recently developed a ticking in my drivers seat (2006 Murano w/less than 55,000) and a lean in the seat where your left buttocks sits. I also feel upon acceleration the driver seat rolling/rocking back. In fact at times I feel I have to hold the steering and pull myself forward so I don't roll back in my driver seat. I don't want to pay dealership $1200. In fact I'd like to get this issue, LCA and TPMS sensor done w/mechanic I trust & will be much< than dealership. My question is do you think it's the frame that needs to welded and/or the screws that need to be replaced in the drivers seat? |
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#416 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,740
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b4l-
I can say with 99.99% certainty it is a cracked frame. Of all the reports we have of rocking driver seats that are lower in the left rear (no pun intended) all of them were traced back to a cracked frame. I wish it was nothing more than loose bolts because then it would be a no-cost repair. Unfortunately, that has never been the case. Welcome to the rocking driver seat club. The membership rolls continue to grow. -njjoe
__________________
2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#417 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 8,199
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Quote:
__________________
2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue Yokohama Envigor (much improved over stock Goodyears) Lots of squeaks and rattles. |
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#418 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,415
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Yup. Cracked frame. Welding route is best I think. But you need to look at it yourself and see exactly where the failed spot is. Try to read the threads on driver seat repair. There are pix. You can compare it with your situation once you open up the seat and clear the uphostery from welding damage. Some Disassembly required.
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#419 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1
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Sounds to me like Nissan will never 'fess up to this manufacturing shortfall, so I fixed mine myself--in fact, I did it this afternoon. I got the part (87473-CA01A) here: "http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts/nissan-link-assy-rr-li~87473-ca01a.html" for about $110 including shipping. It did take me about 3 hours, but didn't cost me a dime's worth of labor. I started off by using the info in post #393 of this thread. Once I had the seat out of the car and turned upside down, I really just "winged it" looking at the part to replace and how to get all of its screws and bolts undone. The most difficult were the two hidden up under the seat cushion, which I did have to undress from the leather upholstery and got at them with the seat sitting upright, but it wasn't that difficult to figure out and do. Another thought for getting this done more economically would be to buy the part yourself and have a car trim shop or upholsterer replace it for you (I had one in my area agree to do it, but didn't call them back after I decided to do it myself). It would cost more than it did me ($0), but likely much cheaper than the dealer, who will undoubtedly charge almost double for the part itself in addition to expensive labor (in fact, my father-in-law doubts the dealer fixes this themselves, more likely farms it out to a trim shop anyway). It feels good to have saved $$$ and not have to fuss with the dealer.
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#420 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,740
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Quote:
87473-CA01A $110 @ www.nissanpartszone.com -njjoe
__________________
2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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