visit to the mechanic - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 01-08-2012, 12:05 PM
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visit to the mechanic

Hello everybody my mother has a 2004 ls v6 3.5 with approx 107xxx miles
I have an 02 alero 2.2 ecotec.... but i digress

The reason I joined this forum was so that I could get feedback from various things regarding my mothers car.
So, here it goes.

After going to the mechanic and spending over $750 already, there was a list given that my mother would still need to do

"Recommended replacing left rear stabilizer link ($135), Drive belts ($158), and oil cooler o ring ($240)"

I have a few questions.
1. Based on the given recommendations, are those fair prices? (im not sure if parts and labor are included in those prices)
2. What is a left rear stabilizing link and is there a how to thread on how to replace it? level of difficulty?
3. I was doing some searching and read in a thread that it seemed that $158 for the belts is a reasonable price... is this correct?
4. Finally, I found a thread here on how to replace oil cooler o ring and it was so basic (take off oil filter, take off bolt, change o ring). My question is do you think this is what the mechanic was talking about when he said recommended replacing oil cooler o-ring? And why the hell would it cost $240 for a job that would look like to take less than an hour?


Thank you very much for your help.
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#2 Old 01-08-2012, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by spc2125 View Post
Hello everybody my mother has a 2004 ls v6 3.5 with approx 107xxx miles
I have an 02 alero 2.2 ecotec.... but i digress

The reason I joined this forum was so that I could get feedback from various things regarding my mothers car.
So, here it goes.

After going to the mechanic and spending over $750 already, there was a list given that my mother would still need to do

"Recommended replacing left rear stabilizer link ($135), Drive belts ($158), and oil cooler o ring ($240)"

I have a few questions.
1. Based on the given recommendations, are those fair prices? (im not sure if parts and labor are included in those prices)
2. What is a left rear stabilizing link and is there a how to thread on how to replace it? level of difficulty?
3. I was doing some searching and read in a thread that it seemed that $158 for the belts is a reasonable price... is this correct?
4. Finally, I found a thread here on how to replace oil cooler o ring and it was so basic (take off oil filter, take off bolt, change o ring). My question is do you think this is what the mechanic was talking about when he said recommended replacing oil cooler o-ring? And why the hell would it cost $240 for a job that would look like to take less than an hour?


Thank you very much for your help.
1) Where to you live? Please fill out your profile. Prices differ somewhat around the US based on local labor prices.
2) I'll let others answer.
3) Seems reasonable to me. That process has been proclaimed as a royal P.I.T.A.
4) If you have an oil leak below the oil filter, then yes, it's that O-ring, and that price quote seems quite excessive to me.

2007 Murano
2009 BMW 328xi
1983 280ZX Turbo
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#3 Old 01-08-2012, 05:49 PM
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I cant really tell where the leak is coming from. I looked under there and its just kind of oily all over and it runs down and drips from some metal bar like 5 inches away from the drain plug
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#4 Old 01-08-2012, 07:29 PM
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Everything seems fair except the oil cooler 0-ring part. The part itself is prob like 5 bucks but add in the cost of a new oil filter, top off the oil and partswash (cleaner) plus the labor to thoroughly clean off all the residual and it still shouldn't be that much. Im wondering if they're also quoting you for the two coolant hoses and hose clamps that go to the actual oil cooler assembly as those hoses can become swollen and leak from the oil contamination.

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#5 Old 01-08-2012, 08:11 PM
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Everything seems fair except the oil cooler 0-ring part. The part itself is prob like 5 bucks but add in the cost of a new oil filter, top off the oil and partswash (cleaner) plus the labor to thoroughly clean off all the residual and it still shouldn't be that much. Im wondering if they're also quoting you for the two coolant hoses and hose clamps that go to the actual oil cooler assembly as those hoses can become swollen and leak from the oil contamination.
I was looking at those and they didnt seem loose nor did they seem cracked.
But if that is the case,

do you think its a DIYer?
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#6 Old 01-08-2012, 09:49 PM
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I was looking at those and they didnt seem loose nor did they seem cracked.
But if that is the case,

do you think its a DIYer?
Yes. Everything you need to do to replace the oil cooler gasket yourself is well documented on this forum - you only need to search.

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#7 Old 01-08-2012, 11:09 PM
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Yes. Everything you need to do to replace the oil cooler gasket yourself is well documented on this forum - you only need to search.
i did search that prior to posting this, as i said in my original post, however I was asking about the degree of difficulty and/or tips for completing it.
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#8 Old 01-09-2012, 06:25 PM
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The oil cooler gasket is a piece of cake. Youll have to dig around the forum to find the part number and its either a 24mm or 22mm deep socket you need to remove it.

The drive belts are easy too. Maybe one of the rear bolts is hard to get to I think. You need a socket with a long extension to release the tensioner, maybe a swivel I dont remember for sure. probably $60-70 total in parts for those two jobs, I'm guessing 2 hours would be plenty. Check for a leak from the high pressure hose from the power steering pump while your in that area. Look that up on the forum for info. While your down there you may as well check the lower control arm bushings too. If you see a dark half moon or half circle in the rubber you can firgure on replacing them also.
As far as the left rear link stabilizer I'm not sure what that is and havent had any problems in the back. If they are referring to the shock its a piece of cake, couple of nuts and I dont think you even have to jack up the car.
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#9 Old 01-09-2012, 06:26 PM
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RockAuto Auto Parts is a good source for cheap parts, Ive been pretty satisfied with theyre stuff
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#10 Old 01-10-2012, 10:47 PM
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The oil cooler gasket is a piece of cake. Youll have to dig around the forum to find the part number and its either a 24mm or 22mm deep socket you need to remove it.

The drive belts are easy too. Maybe one of the rear bolts is hard to get to I think. You need a socket with a long extension to release the tensioner, maybe a swivel I dont remember for sure. probably $60-70 total in parts for those two jobs, I'm guessing 2 hours would be plenty. Check for a leak from the high pressure hose from the power steering pump while your in that area. Look that up on the forum for info. While your down there you may as well check the lower control arm bushings too. If you see a dark half moon or half circle in the rubber you can firgure on replacing them also.
As far as the left rear link stabilizer I'm not sure what that is and havent had any problems in the back. If they are referring to the shock its a piece of cake, couple of nuts and I dont think you even have to jack up the car.

THANKS!! ill jack it up this weekend and take a look
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#11 Old 01-21-2013, 08:14 AM
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Turbizzy, hi, i'm having the oil leak and the coolant leak from the same side. Is like is happening the coolant hoses are broken beause of the oil...could you please share a diagram of the two coolant hoses location so I can also see what i need to fix for the oil leak from the same side (passenger side).

Thanks in advanced! I'm desperate to fix this! Now that i have a new tranny ob my MO!

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Originally Posted by turbizzy View Post
Everything seems fair except the oil cooler 0-ring part. The part itself is prob like 5 bucks but add in the cost of a new oil filter, top off the oil and partswash (cleaner) plus the labor to thoroughly clean off all the residual and it still shouldn't be that much. Im wondering if they're also quoting you for the two coolant hoses and hose clamps that go to the actual oil cooler assembly as those hoses can become swollen and leak from the oil contamination.
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#12 Old 01-23-2013, 01:44 PM
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See information below copied from another post about the belt replacement, Fan Belts: Engineers should be fired!!!!!

You may want to go to the thread and read all the comments about the original post. Good Luck. It's not that hard.


Quote:
Originally Posted by topboxman
I just replaced AC/Alternator and Power Steering belts. What a P.I.T.A. Nissan engineers should be fired!!!!

1) Raise car and remover right front tire.
2) Remove inside fender cover.
3) Using 14mm universal wrench, loosen the idler pulley lock. I could not use a socket and ratchet because there was no room.
3) Using 14mm socket and universal joint, loosen the idler pulley adjusting nut. I counted 7 full turns until the belt came loose. Universal joint was necessary for access and clearance.
4) If necessary, turn the crankshaft pulley (19mm socket) until you can see through the Power Steering pulley hole to reveal a bolt holding PS.
5) Using 12mm socket and ratchet, put the socket through the PS pulley hole and loosen the PS pivet bolt.
6) Using 12 mm universal wrench, loosen the PS lock bolt that's locking the adjusting bolt.
7) Using 12mm socket, ratchet and very long extension (I used two long plus one short extensions), loosen the PS adjusting bolt in the CLOCKWISE direction until the belt comes off. I had to turn the bolt ALL THE WAY just to barely remove the belt.

Everything except step #3 was done underneath the car.

Installation of new belts is reverse order.

After you are satisfied with the PS belt tension, first tighten the PS pivet bolt, then turn the PS adjusting bolt until it rests against the PS bracket, and finally tighten the PS lock bolt to lock the adjusting bolt. In my opinion, the PS bracket is a poor and confusing design but once you understand how it works, then you should have no problem. Be patient learning how this PS bracket works before you are done.

I am disappointed that I could not use a torque wrench anywhere due to tight space. I don't mind that it does not have a single serpetine belt supported by self-tensioning idler pulley as long as I can have good access to the belts. But this was not the case.

I am glad it's over. Even though it was difficult, it took me about 50 minutes thanks to all the tools I had.

Suggestion:

Get extra long universal wrench for PS lock bolt and ilder pulley. I didn't have extra long universal wrench but I was lucky that none of the bolts were extra tight.

Peter
Got mine done today and it was kinda/sorta a pain. Using the above write-up made it a lot easier. A couple of comments though. One is that I did not know where the serpentine belt idler pulley lock was and had to go on-line to find that it is located in the center of the idler pulley. Two, pay attention to the suggestion at the bottom. I tried to loosen the PS lock bolt using the one I had, about 5 inches long, and could not get enough leverage to break it loose. I went and purchased one a couple of inches longer and it made all the difference in the world. I am glad I changed the serpentine belt but the PS belt had no cracking at all and may have lasted until I got rid of the vehicle. Anyway the job is done and I am only bleeding from one place, a new record for me.
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