Steering Wheel Shake - Help! - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 03-30-2012, 01:23 PM
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Steering Wheel Shake - Help!

Hi all -

I wrote a month or so back to get advice for new tires. Well here's what's happened since.

Got Michelin Latitude Tour tires for the MO. Found out during the process that my front struts were shot. Upgraded to KYB struts. Had alignment redone and balancing redone again because the fools who did the tires didn't do it right - they also missed the need for the struts - so we had to realign after anyway. Getting my money back for the duplicate procedures at least.

Much better ride - no longer about to go off the road if I hit a bump wrong. However, my steering wheel was vibrating at 55-65 miles per hour. The trusty mechanics who fixed the other shop's mistakes pulled apart my MO and found nothing wrong with the front axels. They also dismissed anything with the motor mount. We also had tried rotating the front tires to the back before we did anything too severe to see if I had a defective tire. Nothing changed.

They just did a fine balance and said to see how that goes. It's still there. It's not severe but it's definitely noticeable when you are on the back roads and have to maintain a consistent 55-60 speed. They were really out of options and suggested a place that could do the balance, etc. while the tires were mounted on the car. Turns out the MO is too small for their equipment.

Not really sure what to do next. Any ideas?! Thanks always for your help everyone!
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#2 Old 03-30-2012, 01:37 PM
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If its a balancing issue....look for a road force balance machine. Only a few shops have them in a given town. Cost a little more but it will sure fix the problem or atleast find out if its the tires or the rims.
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#3 Old 03-30-2012, 02:28 PM
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Check that your wheel nuts are properly torqued - a lot of shops hammer on them with their impact gun and tighten well above the recommended value. This could lead to a slight vibration if there are some nuts on the same wheel with more or less torque than others.
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#4 Old 03-30-2012, 02:30 PM
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When was the last time you had the tie rods checked?

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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#5 Old 04-04-2012, 04:51 PM
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Hi all - thanks for the ideas. The shop that checked it out thoroughly doesn't have the road force balance machine but they said the rims were fine. They evaluated everything on the car that could be an issue and they said tie rods were fine, too. I don't think there's a problem with the torque because they took the tires off multiple times to fix the last shops mistakes and the shaking was always present in the steering wheel the whole time. Any other options you can think of? The place that they recommended where the MO is too small was really stumped, too. They said I had already seen the best and didn't really know what else to do. But just driving ten minutes on a road that's 55 is getting old really fast! Thanks guys!
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#6 Old 04-04-2012, 05:01 PM
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- Balance
- Out of round tires (it happens)
- Improperly torqued lug nuts
- Tie rod ends worn
- Check steering gear in general

Try rotating front tires/wheels to back and vice versa - if the problem disappears it's tires/wheels. If not, it's front end steering gear.

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#7 Old 04-04-2012, 05:28 PM
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How much vibration are you talking about here? Usually when you get steering wheel vibration at 55mph its the tires/balancing issue. Don't know what machine that checks the wheels while its in the car but road force balance machine will surely fix your issue. Assuming all your suspension components are in good working order. If its the tire itself then nothing can be done but change it.
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#8 Old 04-05-2012, 12:58 AM
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Did the vibration start right after you got new tires or was this before?

Could be warped brake rotors and/or heat spots on the rotors themselves.

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#9 Old 04-05-2012, 03:50 PM
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They did rotate the tires front to back without a change. I'm honestly not sure when the vibration started. Somehow my earlier tires got badly beat up - cupping, etc. plus not knowing I needed new struts, it could have been happening before. Now that two of the problems are hopefully fixed, this one is now evident whereas before you couldn't tell with everything else going on.
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#10 Old 04-06-2012, 04:04 PM
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It is possible that the stiffer sidewall of the new tires is transmitting vibration from warped rotors more than your older tires. A crazy thought, but hey, since everything else checks out with the balancing and alignment, time to go to left field for ideas.

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#11 Old 04-20-2012, 12:22 AM
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Hi again - Just wanted to give you all an update. Took the MO to the last local dealer I didn't try yet - they all haven't been great - and took a test drive with the service manager. I had originally gone there to have a balance because they have the Road Force machine, but after driving it, he was confident it wasn't a balance issue because the vibration in the wheel went side to side more than in your face shaking. So I agreed to do a one hour inspection. It only took the mechanic thirty minutes to tell me that my bushings were worn pretty bad on both sides and that I needed to replace both from control arms for $800!

My brother - who is in the industry - and I talked and he said to do a bit more research on it, because they wouldn't guarantee this would fix it 100%, which I understand, but I've already spent so much money chasing the problem. The shop that already had torn the MO apart looking at the axels, etc. doesn't think that will fix it. They didn't want to do it for me - even though they could do it cheaper than Nissan because they didn't want me to "fix it" and be stuck out a ton of money if it didn't actually fix it.

So I'm supposed to get it checked out at another Nissan dealership an hour away from here where at least if they confirm, it's in my brother's network of dealerships and I can get the employee discount which is significant. So that's my update. Any thoughts guys? Does this sound like it'd fix the problem?
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#12 Old 04-20-2012, 09:22 AM
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I don't know about these shops....All 3 should have seen/inspected the condition of the LCA bushings. If its actually gone, you will see signs of leak stain in the round aluminum housing and cracks/tears on the rubber part--front and back. Check it out yourself, no tools needed just light. Crawl under your sideview mirror area and look for that round aluminum part. There are posted pix of it here. BTW, I replaced both LCA for 200 shipped. No need to use oem. Get it on ebay or some online store. Check out the threads. Thats if its really gone. Good luck.
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#13 Old 04-22-2012, 07:24 PM
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Well first and foremost i strongly recommend replacing those control arms because that alone can cause issues and/or amplify an already existing vibration.

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#14 Old 05-07-2012, 09:43 PM
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Finally getting on this again - sorry it's been crazy and I also haven't had the spare cash to spend to fix this. But one final question. I've noticed that when backing up to the right (only first thing in the morning) the car shakes a bit when I turn the wheel back to neutral and it feels like the tires are shaking. I haven't noticed anything to the left, but my parking spot makes me turn to the right... could this be connected to the control arms? I am definitely planning to do it soon, but I'm nervous since it's so much money and they aren't sure it'll actually fix the problem. Thanks as always everyone!
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#15 Old 05-09-2012, 04:41 AM
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Janessa, Im not 100% sure what your experiencing in the morning but I have run into issues with Muranos that the steering column shaft binds up for some reasons (i have suspicions) and the steering wheel itself can sometimes become unusually difficult to turn at times or certain angles.

What I've done to remedy this is look underneath the dash at the steering column shaft that goes into the floor by the brake and gas pedal. See how its held to the upper steering shaft with I think a 14mm nut on a bolt. Loosen the 14mm nut and wiggle the shaft back and forth firmly but try not to pull the shaft out of its socket entirely, if it happens no biggie just keep the steering wheel from free spinning as it can damage the internal airbag wiring. Once your wiggled it and its now somewhat loose and not binding, reinstall the nut and tighten it pretty good. Then see if it feels any different.

I find this binding happens whenever someone tries to lower the engine subframe down for whatever reason (engine mounts, power steering hose replacements, etc) and they don't disconnect the steering shaft thus causing some binding.

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