Service Engine Soon light on and pulled error codes - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 07-18-2012, 01:27 PM
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Service Engine Soon light on and pulled error codes

2004 Nissan Murano SE AWD, 90K miles

Service Engine Soon light went on 48 hours ago. A shop pulled the following 2 error codes.

P0011 B1 A-Cam Position Timing Sys. Perform
P1724 Electronic Throttle Control System

The shops needs do a further diagnostic which will cost me $120.

1. Any thought on what the problem could be?
2. If the throttle body needs to be replaced, anybody have a rough estimate of cost? I remember the throttle body was replaced around 2008, covered under warranty.
3. Does it make sense that I clear the error codes now to turn off the light, and wait and see if it comes back again?

Thanks!
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#2 Old 07-18-2012, 04:47 PM
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I think it is always worth a reset to see if the code comes back. A failing throttle body would be symptomatic though, such as sluggishness when accelerating from a stop. A remanufactured throttle body is cheap, probably less than $300, with an hours labor maybe. If the shop does the repair, they should include the diagnostic fee with the repair cost and not charge extra. The extra charge should be if they do not obviously locate the fault by just reading the codes and require additional workup to figure out which part is malfunctioning.

2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC
Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger
PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue
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Lots of squeaks and rattles.
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#3 Old 07-18-2012, 05:48 PM
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I don't feel any symptoms at all. According to the shop, the two error codes don't definitively point to where the failure is. So they require further diagnosis which will cost me $120.

I am going to disconnect the battery to clear the codes and turn off the light, and give it a few days to see if it comes back.

Thanks!
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#4 Old 07-18-2012, 05:49 PM
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I wouldn't clear the codes by disconnecting the battery. It could require an idle air relearn.

Use a scan tool to reset the codes instead.

2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC
Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger
PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue
Yokohama Envigor (much improved over stock Goodyears)
Lots of squeaks and rattles.
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#5 Old 07-19-2012, 01:21 AM
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Well, I disconnected the battery, waited for 10 min. to reconnect, and the light is still on.

Will wait for the scanner to arrive in mail next week to try again. Meanwhile hoping it is OK to keep driving the car?

Thanks!
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#6 Old 07-19-2012, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueHorse View Post
Well, I disconnected the battery, waited for 10 min. to reconnect, and the light is still on.

Will wait for the scanner to arrive in mail next week to try again. Meanwhile hoping it is OK to keep driving the car?

Thanks!
Go to an autozone and they will read your codes for you and reset for free.

2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC
Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger
PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue
Yokohama Envigor (much improved over stock Goodyears)
Lots of squeaks and rattles.
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#7 Old 07-19-2012, 05:44 PM
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Well, I talked to Autozone and Kragen earlier of this week and both said they stopped doing this because of some law or litigations years ago (I am in California).

Talked to an independent shop who did some good work on my other car before, and he said disconnecting battery can't erase error codes if the underlying problem is more serious. Does this make sense? I am thinking maybe error codes on Murano simply can't be erased by disconnecting battery?

I just tried disconnect positive side earlier today, and the light is still on.

I am debating to surrender now, or hold onto this "potentially serious" problem until my reader arrives end of next week?

Thanks!
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#8 Old 07-19-2012, 05:54 PM
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I guess it does make sense that reseting the codes can be a sneaky way to temporary evade repairs in the smog test required in California. So it makes sense the shops won't do it.

The vehicle can be driven with the check engine light on. If it doesn't accelerate, then it just means that component has gone into failsafe mode to protect the electronics. You probably won't ruin anything further, but the engine may not run optimally. Disconnecting the battery will clear certain codes but not others.

2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC
Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger
PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue
Yokohama Envigor (much improved over stock Goodyears)
Lots of squeaks and rattles.
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#9 Old 07-19-2012, 07:37 PM
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What is the chance that once my new scanner arrives, it may clear the error coes and turn off the light for good?

In another word, I am trying to avoid the situation that I surrender to the shop today, while there is really no issue with the car (i.e. the light on was just a "hiccup", which can be expected given the sophisticated systems these days). I may still be provided some kind of problems that need money.

Maybe it is worthwhile to wait for my scanner to have a chance to shine?

Thanks!
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#10 Old 07-21-2012, 10:03 PM
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Paid the independent shop replaced all four struts (I think the rear ones are called shocks). Cost $703 plus tax.

I can feel the car holds itself tighter when braking, turning. The feel of the road is better too. Before the fix, I knew the front rotors may be warped as when I brake I could feel steering wheel shaking. Now, magically, the shaking has gone down quite a bit (only 30% left I guess). I couldn't understand how an aged/leaking strut may have caused the shaking when braking, maybe it was just my imagination...

Overall, felt happy to have replaced them.

I have read it is recommended to do a wheel alignment, but the mechanic says there is really no need. I know $80 is not much, but why doing it if there is not much benefit? Thinking I am to skip it.

I looked rear struts, and saw the spring, but really not much anything else. Wander what that rear shocks look like. Will try to search for a photo shortly.

Thanks guys!
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#11 Old 07-21-2012, 10:14 PM
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Sorry, I posted at the wrong place. My car has both leaking strut problem and SES light on. Will move the strut comment to the right place shortly.

On the SES light, turns out that the engine oil pressure was low, caused by a dangerously low engine oil level. Was told 5 quarts oil should be replaced with each oil change, and for mine, only 2.5 quarts old oil came out. That means it lost 2.5 to 3 quarts of oil over ~6,500 miles!! No leak at oil pan or anywhere else. Mechanic think the oil is seeping through the piston rings. I am still wandering why it could not be a leaking spark plug, or leaking at some rubber seals? If proven, the piston rings will be expensive ($3000 or even higher?) to fix as it requires opening up the engine. But I was told I can keep topping off ever 1,000 miles or so, if it turns out indeed I am burning that much. And this will not affect smog test, I was told.

Now the low oil was not warned by Check Engine Oil light, surprisingly. The mechanic says some Nissan cars have design flaw here - the sensor checks oil pressure at a location that is NOT the weakest in the whole flow. Was told low oil messed up timing, and/or creates frictions in the engine, triggering SES slight and those two emission related error codes. Whoever said on the internet that oil change has nothing to do with SES light is wrong.

I have always taken good care of the car - had service contract till 70K miles, and after that oil change every 3,750 miles, until this last time at 82K miles I changed to 6,500 miles interval. So if my engine does burn oil, I blame Nissan for its low quality.

Going forward -
1. 5,000 miles oil change interval, with synthetic oil.
2. Check oil level every 1,000 miles.
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#12 Old 07-23-2012, 05:11 AM
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Well your independant shop is right, the P0011 code is common for our engines in other models too. There have been issues with internal engine oil pressure loss through some faulty oil pressure gallery gaskets in the rear timing cover but i've not seen any of these issues in Murano's as they are assembled in Japan. I've only seen the issues on the Mexico engines such as Altimas, Maximas, Quests, etc.

Yes low engine oil level is the most common cause of the P0011/P0021 codes on Nissan engines. There is even a technical service bulletin telling us to first check the oil level cold and sitting after 15 mins to verify the oil level is within specs before performing any further diagnositcs and this almost always seems to be the cause, low oil level.

I just got done telling someone else 3 quarts of oil lost in a higher mileage engine in 6,500 miles isn't too too bad but yeah its not that great either. I strongly suggest changing the oil at 3,750 miles and using some higher grade oil, synthetic blend or fully synthetic that has oil consumption reducing additives. And a quality filter like OEM.

The other code for the throttlebody is somewhat common and usually involves replacing the throttlebody. They are now available from nissan as a remanufactured unit for far less money than a new one. I think they're around $160-175 with a new gasket plus labor to replace, erase code and reset your idle.

I notice your in Fremont, why don't you try us out, im at San Leandro Nissan. Our oil changes are only $39.99 and we use OEM nissan filters, mobil synthetic blend oil and you also get a pretty detailed inspection of the vehicle. Just tell em Izzy sent you.

Izzy - MY PANDORA BODYKIT FOR SALE
04 Murano SE
05 Colorado ZQ8
85 Mustang SVO
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#13 Old 07-28-2012, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by turbizzy View Post
I notice your in Fremont, why don't you try us out, im at San Leandro Nissan. Our oil changes are only $39.99 and we use OEM nissan filters, mobil synthetic blend oil and you also get a pretty detailed inspection of the vehicle. Just tell em Izzy sent you.
Thanks. The SES light issue is solved for now. But I am still accumulating mileage to see why the oil loss (post at http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/8...tml#post197439 )

Once I confirm the issue is leaking or not, may try Hayward Nissan to confirm/fix. Thanks Izzy!
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