failed CVT

[EasternPA]

Originally posted by Kris
EasternPA

what is your warranty?

100k Gold here. Repair fully covered.

If my wife and I build our second home in Florida as we've discussed, then I'll consider retiring the Murano to be our Florida car, but there's no way I'll keep it as my daily driver beyond 100k miles. Nerp. Nope. Sorry. Uh-uh. No way, no how.

[EasternPA]

Originally posted by Eric L.
What are brake coolers?

I also realized I never answered this question. They are actually called "brake shims", and are some kind of device that will prevent the rotors from needing to be machined so frequently. Its really an annual event for me, and is getting ridiculous. The shims cost $55 for either two or four -- I'm not really sure -- and the dealer isn't charging labor because I'm such a regular there, and make it a point to be nice to everyone. Hopefully I'll be able to get some real mileage out of the brakes.

[njjoe]

Eric-

I, too, was curious to learn what these "brake coolers" were. I did a quick search and came up with the following. Check it out.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=4PRDCTS-200

-njjoe

[Eric L.]

Originally posted by njjoe
Eric-

I, too, was curious to learn what these "brake coolers" were. I did a quick search and came up with the following. Check it out.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=4PRDCTS-200

-njjoe

From the link, it appears that the point of these brake shims with heat sinks is to cool the pad down quicker. But for $100, you can just get performance oriented pads like Porterfield R4S, and those won't fade at all under street conditions.

In either case, I cannot imagine the stock brakes on the Murano fading at all given the limitations of the vehicle - this isn't a sports car you'll be gunning on curvy canyon roads, braking heavily from corner to corner. So in the real world, I question the utility of brake shim coolers.

As for saving the brake rotor - its not hot pads that warp the rotor, its hot rotors that warps rotors. So, I'm not sure how a cooler brake pad will help that.

Normal brake shims on the other hand are essential - they provide the backing for application of anti-squeal goo on the back of the brake pads, eliminating annoying disc brake noise.

[EasternPA]

Originally posted by Eric L.
Normal brake shims on the other hand are essential - they provide the backing for application of anti-squeal goo on the back of the brake pads, eliminating annoying disc brake noise.

Sorry for the poor choice of words tripping this part of the discussion. They never said coolers. Always shims. It was how they described the items as helping to keep the rotors cooler that led to me mistakenly calling them coolers instead of shims. I had no idea there was such a significant difference.

[Eric L.]

Originally posted by EasternPA


Sorry for the poor choice of words tripping this part of the discussion. They never said coolers. Always shims. It was how they described the items as helping to keep the rotors cooler that led to me mistakenly calling them coolers instead of shims. I had no idea there was such a significant difference.

Hmmm it is strange the dealer recommends replacing the shims on a regular basis. Usually I replace them when I change the brake pads, but thats it. In fact, Nissan sells something called a "brake hardware kit" which is separate from the brake pads - the kit usually contains shims and a metal grease (sometimes copper) and the purpose is to eliminate brake noise.

[EasternPA]

Originally posted by Eric L.
Nissan sells something called a "brake hardware kit" which is separate from the brake pads - the kit usually contains shims and a metal grease (sometimes copper) and the purpose is to eliminate brake noise.

Brake hardware kit also sounds familiar, but he certainly said the whole point was to help protect the rotors so they stop getting warped so quickly. It'll cost $55 and he won't charge labor. Do I need to raise a red flag with management?

[mgthe3]

Nothing on your caliper is going to keep your rotor from warping.

If we had no puddles...
If we had mechanics who used a torque wrench to tighten the lugs....
If the rotor was billet iron of a uniform density....

Lotsa ifs.

[Eric L.]

Originally posted by EasternPA


Brake hardware kit also sounds familiar, but he certainly said the whole point was to help protect the rotors so they stop getting warped so quickly. It'll cost $55 and he won't charge labor. Do I need to raise a red flag with management?

I certainly didn't mean to introduce conflict between you and your dealership. You could just ask them exactly what they are doing and why it would save rotor wear.

[patmitch1]

Since everyone here seems to have valuable info, heres my problem. Usually after driving for a bit, like over 30 mins or so when I make turns, it seems as if my tranny "clunks" a few times until I straighten back out again. If that makes sense. Its only when I make hard 90 degree turns and accelerate at the same time. If I do not use the gas I dont hear it. Anyone else run into this problem? It drives me crazy.

thanks.

[njjoe]

Originally posted by patmitch1
Usually after driving for a bit, like over 30 mins or so when I make turns, it seems as if my tranny "clunks" a few times until I straighten back out again. If that makes sense. Its only when I make hard 90 degree turns and accelerate at the same time. If I do not use the gas I dont hear it. thanks.

patmitch1-

How many miles are on your MO? I am asking this because the noise may be worn CV joints. It may not be your CVT.

-njjoe

[manydubs]

Originally posted by patmitch1
Since everyone here seems to have valuable info, heres my problem. Usually after driving for a bit, like over 30 mins or so when I make turns, it seems as if my tranny "clunks" a few times until I straighten back out again. If that makes sense. Its only when I make hard 90 degree turns and accelerate at the same time. If I do not use the gas I dont hear it. Anyone else run into this problem? It drives me crazy.

thanks.

That is what mine would sound like right before it went up. Take it too the dealer right away and have them take a look. If your Mo is under warranty is wil not cost you a thing. Document going to the dealer 4 times for the same problem or three depending on your state at you can file a lawsuit under the Lemon Law.

[patmitch1]

Mine has 40k on it so it still is covered under the drive train warranty. I think the joints may be the problem because it doesnt make any sounds other than when I make hard turns and accelerate through them. Keep the suggestions coming. I appreciate the help.

Pat

[njjoe]

patmitch1-

manydubs may be right, it may be your CVT, however I am betting it is your CV joints, especially now because you said it only happens when accelerating through sharp turns. Those conditions would strongly suggest worn CV joints.

When driving with the windows down, is the sound more pronounced on one side or the other?

-njjoe

[Eric L.]

I'll add one more point to the discussion of CV joints to this thread. If you notice the clunk noise happening only when you make a turn in one direction (be it only right or only left) then the CV joint that is failing is the one *opposite* the direction of your turn (since the car leans onto the opposite side during a turn, it puts more load on that side).