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#496 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 531
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Update on my "tick" issue. The dealer service manager heard the tick and confirmed a problem. That was the first visit. They isolated the noise (with my help) to the roof area near the B-Pillar (wasn't the door after all). They tore down the headliner and realized they needed to order new sunroof trim. They gave me back the car with the tick, minus the sunroof trim. Made an appointment when the new trim came in. Again, they took apart the headliner, but realized the sunroof trim part was the wrong one and had to reorder. So now I'm waiting for the new part. Still have the tick. The only progress so far is that they "think" it was something to do with the side curtain airbag components. The plan is to take it apart completely (the side curtain airbag), reassemble and put in the trim when that part arrives supposedly this week.
AURGH!! How frustrating!! |
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#498 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Georgina, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 136
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Interesting and upsetting. So I had the TSB NTB03-109 applied to both doors to fix the door skin tick (tic) so the service invoice read. Well after about a month the tic was back. Having obtained a copy of the TSB online, I decided to take the door apart myself and have a closer look. Turns out they did apply some of the felt repairs to the underside and even reglued one of the main foam blocks as instructed in the TSB. Sad thing is they didn't cover at least 50% of the TSB's instruction. Obviously I picked up the work where the dealer got lazy. (No excuse to not follow the entire bulletin as recommended) I finished applying felt to the remaining key points of contact under door skin as instructed. I still haven't test driven to see if the tic has been eliminated, but I can surely understand why it hadn't been to this point. The passanger door will come of next to see what they did or didn't do under that side.
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#499 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 531
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Hey all:
Got a call from the dealer today and they fixed the problem. As noted in earlier replies, I have been having a loud tick noise from the B-Pillar/headliner area - typically on bumpy roads or any area where the vehicle experiences body flex. The dealer had to replace the sunroof trim as part of the service (twice ordered due to parts mix ups - I suspect the technician damaged the original trim during tear down and had to order a new one). Well, the correct trim replacement part came in last week and the Murano was in the shop today. Picked it up this evening and glory be - no tick! Apparently, they got it. This is what the service report noted: "Customer states that there is a tciking (sic) noise from headliner. Body bolts loose. Road test and inspect vehicle. Found noise coming from ride side B Piller (sic) area at side airbag. Remove headliner and door panel. Remove passengers side seat belt cover and found loose body bolts causing tick. Remove and resecure bolts. Reinstall door panel and headliner. Roadtest. OK" So that's it for my ticking issues (I HOPE!). Maybe now I can finally enjoy the Murano in peace and quiet! |
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#500 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 5
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On my 06 Murano, I also had a rattling noise whenever the vehicle drove over uneven surfaces. The sound appeared to be coming from the hatch area. What seemed to work is the adjustment on the rubber-stop for the rear-hatch. It is the round rubber thing located on the hatch, about at the halfway mark. I adjusted it short by turning it clockwise after loosening the locking adjustment nut.
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#501 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 28
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I have a new 2007 murano wich I acquired in January. What is driving me crazy is the rattle I here from the gate area -- You only hear it on non-smooth roads or bumpy roads. It is driving me CRAZY!!
I took the vehicle in for a 1000 mile oil change, had them take a look at it -- told me the back seat wasn't secured and so they secured it, but the rattle is still there -- makes me feel like I'm driving an old empty van. I love this car, but I only want the rattle in the back to stop. Anyone else had a similar problem? Is it perhaps due to the very cold weather we've been having in Chicago? Any advice that may be offered will be MUCH appreciated! |
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#502 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 203
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Quote:
__________________
2003 Murano SE Touring Package Super Black/Charcoal Leather Atlanta, Georgia |
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#504 (permalink) |
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Gorving!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 15
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04' Mo
I have the same problem. My told me it wat the regulator and there was not a fix for it. Just like my CVT that won't shift and now what they say are my front axles. I have a click when I put it in reverse and then again when I go to drive. Sounds like when a u-joint was bad. Their answer: There is a TSB stating this noise is caused by the front axles. They say they have to be removed and lubricated to the tune of 250 bucks. Also was told that Nissan does not cover anything under warrantr if there are no parts replaced. BS! This service advisor doesn't know squat. I have about all I can take with this. deal Anyone else heard ofthis?.
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#505 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 873
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You'd think they would have fixed this by '06...
I have to say I'm both disappointed and relieved to have found this thread. I thought I was just being overly sensitive about the unusual sounds in the MO, but decided to check here anyway. This ticking sound is driving me bonkers! Some days it's quiet, other days it ticks from either the driver or passenger window area, and some days it sounds like a beater, ticking from both windows and the sunroof area!! I've never owned a vehicle that ticked like this (and this is by far the newest and most expensive vehicle I've ever owned). It really destroys the MO's otherwise great driving experience. I've only gotten through about 5 pages of this thread (and already several TSB's have been mentioned) so I've got some more reading to do before I hit up the dealer for (hopefully) a warranty fix. Though, it looks like most people here addressed the issue themselves... I had good luck with my local dealer over a paint fix so hopefully they'll be just as helpful in trying to resolve this one. Wish me luck... |
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#506 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 119
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As I mentioned on another thread, for six year mine didn't rattle until I had some warranty work done at a dealership. One day I went there to check on the progress, and saw MO's windows partially down, and a tech grasping the top of the glass and leaning against it while shooting the sheet with another tech. Too much stress on the mechanism. I think it's the result of the careless techs who are working on our cars that's causing it. It could even happen because of you, if your window isn't down all the way and you lean into the window to grab something and stress the track. Also, some dealerships place those hooked tracker/marker boxes onto the glass, then roll the window up. That clip/hook is fairly thick and will again stress the window assembly.
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#507 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 11
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Just an FYI for those experiencing a rattle only with the window down - my wife's '05 Mo developed one in the driver's door. I was in there repairing the lock actuator the other day, and upon removing the door panel a loose screw fell out. Turns out it came from the attachment to the lock cables on the inside of the door - when the window was down, the loose attachment/bracket was banging against it. Put the screw back in (had to hold the inside bracket in to grab it with the screw, using a long screwdriver, down inside the window slot), and rattle is gone. Lots of other miscellaneous screws were somewhat loose on the door as well - it's much more solid after tightening everything up.
Also FYI - I used one of the eBay $4 generic door lock actuators, and it worked fine after some fiddling (ok, a lot of fiddling - had to cut a chunk of sheet metal out of the top inside of the door to make room for it). Was worth it to save the $400 the dealer wanted to replace the original parts. And if it ever fails again, it's a quick $4 fix now that the brackets, rods, etc. are all in place. |
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#508 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 155
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so what is the final consensus on this thread? Out of all the recommended solutions recommended here, Which fix is the best to apply?
__________________
2003 SL AWD Sunlit Copper Converted Halogens to OEM HID Factory MP3 Audio Unit from '06 MO Xenons Hoen Fogs Hoen City Lights Rear Bumper protector T-Rex Grill Side Mouldings |
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