Transfer Case and Rear Differential Fluid - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 66 Old 08-30-2008, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Joe. I'm sure it will help others who want to do some tinkering

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post #17 of 66 Old 08-10-2011, 06:07 PM
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Nissan Canada recommend to use Pennzoil Gearplus GL-5 SAE 80W-90 fluid only( not any other kind ) when having the transfer case and rear differential services.
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post #18 of 66 Old 09-25-2011, 02:21 AM
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I guess I am luckier than most. I have a 2004 sl AWD. 99K miles. I have never had an ounce of trouble with the CVT or the TC.
However, this past Saturday, I heated up the transmission by driving it in low 1 for an extended period. I should have known better. I was pulling my boat to the lake.
I had no transmission as I attempted to pull away from the dock after launching the boat.
After waiting an hour for the towtruck, I got in the car and it shifted into gear. I acrtully was able to drive back home with out any assistance.
Anyways, being that the CVT is covered under the 120k warranty, I thought I might as well take it in to Nissan to have it checked out.
Long story short, they said "good news, we will replace your transmission". That night I started reading these posts here.
After reviewing many of the horror stories on this site, and seeing the related problems with the TC's, I thought I better have the Transfer case fluid repalced while they are doing this work.
Nissan said, "No problem. $289.00 we will flush out the TC". "It's separate and not covered by the waranty". I thought, "Cool, brand new tranny and a fresh service on the TC!"
But now I'm wondering....
So here's my question...Aren't they going to have to replace the fluid in the CT any way when they pull out the transmission?
Are they trying to get an extra $300.00 out of me?
AND...Will this new transmission be covered for the next 120K miles?
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post #19 of 66 Old 09-25-2011, 03:13 AM
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CVT replacement requires the removal of the transfer case meaning the TC oil is removed and replaced in the process. So do not even ask them to do anything. They are charging you for something the warranty is paying for already. But don't confuse the TC fluid which is a regular gear oil 80w-90 from the CVT fluid which is the nissan NS2. They are 2 different fluids.

The new cvt is only good for the same 120k miles. Once you pass that you are on your own to cough up 5-6k for a new one when it fails again. They dont reset. You wish! What? You feelin lucky?
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post #20 of 66 Old 09-25-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitely View Post
CVT replacement requires the removal of the transfer case meaning the TC oil is removed and replaced in the process. So do not even ask them to do anything.
Why are you claiming the TC oil is changed when the transfer case is removed? Is it not a sealed unit with it's own supply?

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post #21 of 66 Old 09-25-2011, 04:01 PM
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The TC is sealed if you do not touch it. Once CVT, TC and AXLE is parted from each other the seal will be broken and fluids can mix and spill. I think turbizzy made that point when replacing the right axle seal on an awd.
Even if they just top off the TC fluid during removal and assembly of the new CVT, paying $289 for a TC fluid change/flush is just too much. All they are doing is unscrewing 2 bolts and replacing the fluid with ease since its out already. Coulda sworn that they replaced my TC fluid when I had a TC/CVT seals leak repaired under warranty 3 years back.

Just took a quick look at the FSM and I maybe wrong in saying that they needed to drain the TC fluid when replacing the CVT. I just thought its just the proper way of doing it since its already out and only takes a pint of oil. Topping it off is certainly part of it though. Anyways, if The price is right for him then cool. I just drained and refilled my TC fluid few months back for $15.
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post #22 of 66 Old 09-25-2011, 06:26 PM
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Turbizzy said ... "Replacing the seal is not difficult at all, but the work to remove the transfercase can get involved. Basically what i do is remove the exhaust y pipe, engine sub frame, rear exhaust manifold, drain a few qts of cvt fluid and all of the TC fluid, remove the rh axle and remove the TC, replace seal and vise versa, top fluids, etc.
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post #23 of 66 Old 10-18-2011, 11:09 PM
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Trying to check/change my Tcase oil and I cant get the damn filler bolt off. I can only turn it about 1/8 of a turn with my long wrench and the smaller wrench is even harder to work with.

Has anyone found a tool that would make this easier? Ive seen curved boxed wrenches and ratcheting wrenches, anyone had any luck with those?

I can see I have a small leak from the the Tcase and wanted to be able to keep a regular eye on it until I can afford to get it fixed.

I wish i had a lift..

Thanks for any help..
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post #24 of 66 Old 10-20-2011, 02:04 AM
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Try the 1/4" drive ratchet with 12 mm socket. Then add a pipe extension. I used an old 3/4" copper pipe about a foot long or so. You can turn it little by little with no problem. Putting the filler bolt back in with the ultra grey on it is a bit tricky also. I use a long box wrench to put it on the thread then continue with the 1/4" ratchet to tighten it.
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post #25 of 66 Old 10-22-2011, 06:17 PM
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I wasn't able to get a socket in there, so I found a stubby ratcheting boxed wrench, its about 5" long and the closed end has a ratcheting mechanism that requires very little swing.

So I bought it for $8. It works well for removing the hard to get to filler bolt. Anyone else that has trouble, this tool worked for me.
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post #26 of 66 Old 11-01-2011, 07:05 PM
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did you have trouble getting a allen wrench to the filler bolt of the rear differential? my allen wrench couldnt get to the hex because of that steel frame on the way. the transfer case fill bolt was tough as well. any suggestions on how to get those off. will work on those in another time.
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post #27 of 66 Old 11-02-2011, 01:28 AM
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did you have trouble getting a allen wrench to the filler bolt of the rear differential? my allen wrench couldnt get to the hex because of that steel frame on the way. the transfer case fill bolt was tough as well. any suggestions on how to get those off. will work on those in another time.
For the rear diff...I just used the $1 allen I got from the dollar store and extended the long end with socket extensions to get leverage. Works fine. The longer you can extend the allen the easier to break loose the plug.
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post #28 of 66 Old 11-03-2011, 11:28 AM
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I had mine done by the dealership both TC and Rear Diff.
Cost was $80 dollars + taxes for each Diff.
They forgot to bill the other service so I got two-for-one-deal..... what an idiot !
Good for me !!! LOL
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post #29 of 66 Old 11-14-2011, 07:46 PM
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I didn't see this as a "sticky" did you remember to make it one, or am I looking in the wrong area?

Really helpful thread!
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post #30 of 66 Old 01-16-2012, 11:46 AM
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Checked my TC oil this weekend as I suspect I have a leak. This writeup was really helpful, but I had the hardest time finding the bolt to where I fill the TC oil, and check it.

I finally found it, and it appears someone has replaced my bold from a 12mm to just one you can put a 1/2" drive socket wrench in without a socket and remove it.

Considering I have had seals replaced before, and the engine replaced, maybe someone stripped the 12mm and found that as a replacement. Lots easier IMHO.

Anyways, looks like the seals are leaking , and of course this is out of warranty, just wondering what the going rate/price is to have the TC seals replaced? It appears there would be lots of labor involved.


Thanks

Jason
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