Transfer Case and Rear Differential Fluid - Page 3 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #31 of 45 Old 01-16-2012, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jwa95ta View Post
Checked my TC oil this weekend as I suspect I have a leak. This writeup was really helpful, but I had the hardest time finding the bolt to where I fill the TC oil, and check it.

I finally found it, and it appears someone has replaced my bold from a 12mm to just one you can put a 1/2" drive socket wrench in without a socket and remove it.

Considering I have had seals replaced before, and the engine replaced, maybe someone stripped the 12mm and found that as a replacement. Lots easier IMHO.

Anyways, looks like the seals are leaking , and of course this is out of warranty, just wondering what the going rate/price is to have the TC seals replaced? It appears there would be lots of labor involved.


Thanks

Jason
Im in Canada, and I got quoted $2500 from the Dealership and $1700 from a local mechanic. I think they said 15H labour?

Ive got a slow leak too, but not very much, so I just have the mechanic check and top up the TC fluid during oil changes, I will eventually have it fixed but I figure keeping an eye on it and topping it up should keep it going until I can afford to fix it.
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post #32 of 45 Old 12-09-2012, 07:05 PM
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I just did the Transfer Case and Rear Diff this weekend and can provide some tips on those fill bolts.

The TC fill bolt is a challenge to get to. I used a Craftsman dogbone wrench to loosen it and a stubby ratcheting flex wrench (flex to fit in there better) to unscrew it the rest of the way. Craftsman has a ratcheting dogbone, but it doesn't have 12mm on it. The dogbone wrench loosened the fill bolt very easily as it's a 6 point wrench with a lot of meat to it. It didn't require any liquid wrench.

For the fill bolt on the rear differential, there's a hole in the frame that you can insert your socket through. Doing so with a short socket extension, it was very easy to undo that bolt.

Hope this helps anyone having trouble with the TC or Diff.
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post #33 of 45 Old 08-28-2013, 09:52 PM
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Success



I used the 12 mm offset box wrench to remove the fill plug on my transfer case. I bought the set above from harbor freight. I also occasionally used a regular 8" long 12mm wrench. It was tedious but it worked. I believe a ratcheting box wrench would work also.


I used a vacuum pump seen below to fill the tranfer case with gear oil. Just slowly pump it in until it starts overflowing. I bought the one seen below from harbor freight for $15

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post #34 of 45 Old 06-21-2014, 07:04 PM
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just got done replacing transfer case in a 03 murano (not as bad as I thought).after test driving I wanted to re-check t-case fluid and found it was very tight access,I removed the exhaust heat shield(2 small bolts)and it helped a ton.
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post #35 of 45 Old 07-03-2014, 01:23 PM
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fill plug for the rear diff

I am surprised no one mentioned having any trouble getting to the fill plug for the rear diff. I was trying to change the fluid for my 07SL / 87K for the first time, and find out that the fill plug has small clearance. My No10 allen key will not fit. What tool do you use to get to it? - Thanks.
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post #36 of 45 Old 08-28-2014, 12:44 AM
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washers for rear differential

Can the old aluminum crush washers be reused, or it is best to replace with new? Autozone could not figuer out what washers I need, and I was also told you can use metal (copper, aluminum) washers as long as they are not too beaten up. Is that true? I always replace the copper washers when I do oil change.

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Originally Posted by BikerJohn View Post
Shot of the Drail Plug. It has a long magnet built into the tip of the plug that should be wiped clean before re-installing. Also you can see the old aluminum crush washer.
The plugs are removed using a 10 mm allen wrench with an extension pipe for leverage.
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post #37 of 45 Old 08-28-2014, 12:52 AM
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I have not done it myself, but remember reading somewhere that there is some kind of box right behind the hole in the rear frame, and that somebody removed this box in order to insert tool through the hole in the frame to access the fill plug. If you know how to remove this box, pls post here.

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Originally Posted by latour View Post
I am surprised no one mentioned having any trouble getting to the fill plug for the rear diff. I was trying to change the fluid for my 07SL / 87K for the first time, and find out that the fill plug has small clearance. My No10 allen key will not fit. What tool do you use to get to it? - Thanks.
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post #38 of 45 Old 08-28-2014, 12:57 AM
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The red circle in the attached photo is where the "box" is, and I am not sure its name or how to move it aside.
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post #39 of 45 Old 08-30-2014, 01:33 AM
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Rear differential oil very clean after 110K miles

I just changed rear differential oil today. My car is 2004 AWD SE, with 110K miles.

The old oil looked really clean. The magnetic drain plug has about 2mm thick black gunk on it (see the first photo). The gunk is probably fine metal? They are not going anywhere given the magnetic plug, so I doubt whether this oil change is indeed necessary.

Is the transfer case used no more than the rear differential gear? If so, I would not want to change its oil.

For those who still wants to do the rear differential, you don't need to remove the plastic box behind the rear frame. I used a L shape 10mm Allen wrench, plus a box wrench as an extension for leverage. See the second photo. You need to slide the shorter end of the L shape Allen from the rear differential side to the back of the car, into the whole of the rear frame. The longer end of the allen wrench, depending on its length, may get stuck. In my case, I had to slide it just between the two plugs while rotating slightly to get it in.

My filler plug has two aluminum washers and drain plug has one. All 3 in good condition, so I reused all of them.
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post #40 of 45 Old 09-07-2014, 02:19 AM
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did transfer case oil replacement

Changed transfer case oil today.

The oil looks much worse than the rear differential oil I mentioned in prior post... darker, brownish, and similar black gunk on the drain plug. From what I estimated, the refill capacity is ~280ml, while I only drained about ~150ml of old fluid. So I am guessing I have a slow seepage somewhere. Plan to check again in 7K~10K miles.

The 12 mm offset box wrench from Harbor Freight worked really well. I also tried a flexible racheting box wrentch and a curved 5 inch long box wrench but neither could work the filler bolt.
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post #41 of 45 Old 09-07-2014, 05:14 PM
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TC capacity is 310. If you only got 150 you are already half empty. NO GOOD. Fill it a bit more than less.
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post #42 of 45 Old 09-08-2014, 12:29 AM
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Nitely,

Just to clarify - I put in 280~300ml fresh oil after draining. The 280ml is a conservative estimate. I stopped pumping after fresh oil started to flow slowly from the filler hole. Don't think continuing will do any better, right?

I am really interested in finding out how soon I will lose 40% again from this point on. If over a year and 10K miles, then I am OK to keep the car and just top off annually. Otherwise, time to trade in and move on. Unfortunately, ski season is coming, I need to make a decision in a few weeks whether to buy a new SUV. Sad to say it will not be a Nissan. Murano is a good car, but not reliable in my standard. My wife's BMW 5 series, 2004 build as well, not a single drop of oil consumption, no power steering leak, original struts still work well, original cam sensors are all good.

Welcome thoughts on speed of losing transfer oil.
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post #43 of 45 Old 09-08-2014, 12:51 AM
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I don't know that you can do much to track it except drive it and check monthly. I doubt you can get enough mileage in a few weeks to make an informed decision - but unless you have been checking often, I doubt that it's leaking fast enough to get away from you. Mine has a "seep", but in six months it hasn't lost enough oil to require topping off.

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post #44 of 45 Old 11-30-2014, 10:05 PM
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Bought my 06 SL 2 weeks ago and changed TC and diff. oil today. Started last night but didn't get pass the TC fill plug, very little space. Bought a stubby set this morning and took more than 1 hr to get it moving, very very difficult the first time but doing it a second time would take less than 10 mins. Experience: the greatest teacher. The TC and diff. had 600 ml total, TC was just over 100 ml, dark oil never touched, and diff. oil was clear, recently changed. Both took 946 ml with over flow.
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post #45 of 45 Old 12-06-2014, 09:35 PM
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Got around to doing these two procedures this weekend on my 07 w/ ~150k miles (bought used, previous owner hadn't done them).

Observations: Having the correct tool in this case is more than half the job. I struggled with insufficient tools for hours and couldn't get the bolts/plugs to budge. I almost took it to a shop & paid $130 for both services, until I came to my senses and had the opportunity to visit harbor freight. Essential tools needed for the job (that I previously lacked) were the 6-pc 3/8 dr metric hex socket set, the 3/8 dr breaker bar, and the 8-pc metric offset boxend wrench set. With coupons and sale prices it came to under $30.

Armed with the correct tools, loosening even the transfer case fill plug became actually possible. I did it w/o resorting to slipping a cheater bar over the wrench, which is saying something (I'm not exactly a bodybuilder). Attached are some pics of the tcase work, with notations.

In fact, the hardest part about the whole job was refilling the oil (made a HUGE mess everywhere, even soaked part of my hair!). If I had to do it again I'd definitely use a larger inner diameter tube - the 1/4" size simply took too long to fill, and having to constantly break the bottle/tube seal to refill air in the bottle caused an instant spill. I used the Castrol Hypoy-C stuff, btw.

The only strange thing was when I took out the tcase fill port plug, a TON of nasty oil came out. So much, that the drain plug didn't really have much to dump. I made sure to fill it up until oil dripped out the fill port, then screwed in the plug tight. Is there another fill port above the one I accessed (shown in the pics)?
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