Front Wheel Hub/Bearing - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 09-28-2008, 09:31 PM
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Front Wheel Hub/Bearing

Has anyone changed their own front wheel bearings? Mine are starting to go and the sound is getting more prominent...

I was just curious if I need to use a puller/remover to push the drive shaft out of the hub or if it can be removed without the puller?

Any information with your experience would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

John.

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#2 Old 09-29-2008, 02:41 PM
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I've never done it...but...I would probably just follow the Service Manual.
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#3 Old 09-29-2008, 02:43 PM
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#4 Old 09-29-2008, 02:46 PM
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#5 Old 09-29-2008, 02:50 PM
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Here's what the Service Manual wants you to use to disconnect the ball joint before you remove the bearing assembly:
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#6 Old 09-29-2008, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for all your photos Warhammer.

I do have the service manual but I was more interested to see if there was a real need for the puller on the axle before I dive in.

I just replaced my outer tie rod ends so getting them off will be a breeze. Since I didn't need to re-install them; I just hammered out the old ones. Of course you wouldn't want to do that to a perfectly good one though.

I'll talk to my parts guy at the Nissan dealership to see if I can get more info from them.

I know; it's weird but these guys are actually good guys. Maybe they are aliens

'03 Silver SL AWD w/Sunroof - SOLD
Original Alternator (Just got the NEW recall Alt :-)
Air Lift Rear Suspension
Thule Roof Rack system
Curt Hitch
180,000+ km
'07 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD
White
18" Crome Wheels
Curt Hitch
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#7 Old 09-29-2008, 05:03 PM
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BikerJohn-

You mike not have to replace the bearings. There is a TSB that addresses noisy front bearings.

NTB07-093, entitled "CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT AXLES DURING TAKE-OFF/ACCELERATION", involves applying Molykote grease to the front wheel drive shaft bearing surfaces.

It might be worth looking into.

-njjoe

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#8 Old 09-29-2008, 09:54 PM
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njjoe; Thanks for looking into that service bulletin with that information.

However the problem I'm having with my bearings sounds more like as if a small barrel rolled along the floor. Sorry about the analogy; it's as close as I can think of right now.

It increases and decreases in the sound directly in proportion with my speed. It does not fluctuate with my RPM's and is not affected if I coast in N.

The sound has progressed in loudness week by week and I am very positive that it's the bearings in the hub. Unless I'm missing something else....??

I've had bearing go out on my bicycles and it resembles that familiar sound/feeling.

The dealer I has them in stock at $215.00 each. That's not too bad considering I can just go and pick them up. I think that I'll go tomorrow and pick them up. Apparently the hub is a common part with other Nissan vehicles(I think he mentioned the Pathfinder).

I just have to find the time to put them on. Maybe this weekend.....stay tuned; will post an update.

'03 Silver SL AWD w/Sunroof - SOLD
Original Alternator (Just got the NEW recall Alt :-)
Air Lift Rear Suspension
Thule Roof Rack system
Curt Hitch
180,000+ km
'07 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD
White
18" Crome Wheels
Curt Hitch
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#9 Old 06-12-2009, 02:20 PM
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I am having the same noises on mine.

Am thinking about changing the hubs as well but have found online parts (OEM - Timken) for around $150.

Only problem is I don't have the puller. Maybe I can get away with this somehow??

any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Rob

----------------------------
First Murano, 2004 Midnight blue SL AWD, loaded.

--> FIRST AND LAST - transmission does not see 50k miles? Not my kind of reliability.
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#10 Old 06-12-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Robmartins
I am having the same noises on mine.

Am thinking about changing the hubs as well but have found online parts (OEM - Timken) for around $150.

Only problem is I don't have the puller. Maybe I can get away with this somehow??

any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Rob
I did end up changing my bearings; it all comes as one unit with the hub and wheel studs.

Have a look at the photos posted by Warhammer so you can see how to do it.

The hardest problem I had with mine was the seized parts. You must first establish that you can remove the ABS wheel sensor. Mine was seized and the 10mm bolt snapped off when I tried to undo it. The sensor was seized in the steering knuckle so no worries about it falling out. The problem is that I needed it out. Without being able to remove the ABS sensor; you have two choices. 1- break the sensor and pay $300 CDN each from the dealer or 2- notch out the back of the wheel bearing flange so that you can remove the hub/bearing without removing the sensor. I opted for #2 since I was already "in there".

I rented a "hub puller" from "Parts Source" for no charge. Their rental works like this; you rent the tool by purchasing it and return it for your refund. Maybe there's a place nearby where you can rent one.

After removing the axle's castle nut and the outer steering tie rod; you need to remove the 4 bolts behind the steering knukle to remove the hub assembly.

Then you can use the hub puller to remove the hub. It is a very tight tolerance and if you have any corrosion; it may be stuck.
Mine did not come off with the use of the puller. I had to install the bolts in the rear partially and hammer the life out of them to make the hub budge with a 2 lbs. sledge hammer.

I used lots of liquid wrench and it too did not help me much in my case but I would highly recommend using it liberally before you start removing any bolts or sensor.

Good luck with your efforts and drop a line if you need more advice.

Here's a photo of the notch in the old hub assembly I made using a pair of side-cutters. I had to make the same notch in my new hub in order to re-instal my new hub.

John.
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'03 Silver SL AWD w/Sunroof - SOLD
Original Alternator (Just got the NEW recall Alt :-)
Air Lift Rear Suspension
Thule Roof Rack system
Curt Hitch
180,000+ km
'07 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD
White
18" Crome Wheels
Curt Hitch
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#11 Old 07-26-2009, 08:37 AM
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Good info. I'm restling with removing the hub assembly from the steering knuckle. As BikerJohn said, it's frozen to the knuckle even after removing the four mounting bolts. The shop manual guide is an overkill and somewhat useless.

How exactly did you hammer the hub out? I'm concerned about putting too much stress on the axle shaft.

What does a hub puller look like? I have a 2 ton jaw puller but it's of no help because there is nothing to press against.

MO is jack stand now waiting for help from this forum.
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#12 Old 07-26-2009, 10:28 AM
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OK, got the hub assembly out. My 8 lb. sledge did the job. Sorry I coudn't find the 4lb.
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#13 Old 08-17-2009, 03:41 PM
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I am about to tackle this myself, and was thinking ... Hey, at least the car is only 6 years old... nothing should be too hard to remove! I am used to working on cars that are much much older... maybe 18 years old and so on.

Anyway did either of you have an acetylene torch to heat parts prior to removal?

That dosnt look so hard...

Oh no!
Jeff

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#14 Old 10-05-2009, 09:12 AM
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I had the same problem and the dealer replaced it for around 400 dollars; doing it myself was out question. Also they said i have to do(did) the followings:

Left axle seal leaking cvt fluid and needed around 2 qts of cvt fluid.
Tire rods
Lower control Arms
Engine Mount(this was replaced under warranty around 25k)...
Wow 5/78k all these problems.... that doesnt sound like reliable car......
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#15 Old 10-05-2009, 02:05 PM
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An update on this an other things

First. let me tell you guys one thing (specially to those that are considering doing this on your own). If you live in snow states like me, plan on everything under the car to be REALLY stuck after a couple of years of salt. All nuts, screws, etc are going to be really rusted and hard to get off, unless you have good and appropriate tools.

Same goes for the wheel hub itself. Mine was totally stuck and really hard to get out, although you really don't need to disassemble it all as the manual says.

Other than that, I totally agree that it shouldn't need replacement at only 47 k and after I replaced it, my transmission went. Now thaaaat was not nice. US$3.2 k to repair at Aamco - they do repair the CVT's depending on what went wrong. Mine was the gear assembly (out of the CVT itself) so they managed to do it.

Not a very good sign of quality, as I have also found out on other Murano forums such as nico.org - that the first gen do have their share of blown transmissions way before 100k miles.

Beware.

----------------------------
First Murano, 2004 Midnight blue SL AWD, loaded.

--> FIRST AND LAST - transmission does not see 50k miles? Not my kind of reliability.
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