Fuel Level Sending Unit - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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#16 Old 08-22-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by loops View Post
I have a question uhhh how do you remove seats from the 2006 murano
Seek, and ye shall find.

This forum is a treasure trove of information. If you have a question, chances are it has already been adressed and the answer is just a search away.

Rear seat removal

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#17 Old 08-22-2012, 07:20 PM
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#18 Old 09-16-2012, 02:44 PM
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If you want to work your butt off...

I just repaired my sensors as well. It is VERY difficult if you don't have the correct tools. But anyway I bought CH-48482 (for GM) which is much cheaper($18) than J 46211 ($100) and managed to hammer it to fit murano lock ring. (CH 48482 is about 0.5 cm smaller from tooth to tooth).

Working on the passenger side is MUCH easier so I recommend that you start from it. If the problem goes away after the passenger side is done you are in good luck.

In my case I did NOT replace either sensor (potentiometer) because as I an electric engineering major I believe it should almost never fail given the working condition and current applied on it. The contact track does need to be thoroughly cleaned. Once done it should be as good as a new one.

The design of murano fuel sensors is a series of two sensors so if the fuel level is lower on side and high on the other as a result of turning while driving, the combined resistance is compensated and should be relatively stable, reflecting the average fuel level of both sides of the tank. After cleaning both sensors you may want to use a multimeter to test the series resistance to make sure connection and sensors are both in working order.


A caveat before you snap the floater piece back to the sensor: you may want to bent the two contacting points slightly outward to make sure they apply some pressure on the potentiometer track. A problem I encountered was that when the assembly was outside the tank the resistance of the sensor loop was normal (around 89 ohms depending on how much fuel you have in the tank). But once I put the assembly back the loop became open. Finally I found as the contacting points on the floater swing back to the middle of the track the pressure was too small to make a contact and the loop is discounted.


Another warning is that putting the lock ring back on the driver side is EXTREMELY difficult because:
1. The assembly has springs that push the bottom of the tank so you have to offset the pressure in order to press the ring as low as possible to the floor. I think the new seal is barely adding much additional pressure because it is relatively thinner than the displacement of the spring.
2. In order to lock the ring you will have to simultaneously push ALL five points on the ring and turn the wrench. So you'd have to apply downward pressure and turning at the same time.

If you struggle with the ring, a way to temporary close it is to use five quarters (yes I mean coins) to lock the assembly without the ring. It is a lot easier but make sure you don't accidentally drop some of them into the tank adding to the cost of repair

I also made the work slightly easier by using dremel tools to grind a small ramp on each of the 5 openings on the ring where sliding begins. You may also use some small metal inserts to lock the ring down (one at a time) to the hooks before you start turning the wrench. This allows you to focus on turning rather than pushing and turn.


Good luck!
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#19 Old 09-16-2012, 04:12 PM
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Is this a common issue with the Murano? I know Nissans had many problems with the sending unit on Titans since both of mine have had the unit replaced twice under TSBs.

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#20 Old 09-16-2012, 11:06 PM
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Great tips!

I just cleaned both my sensors last week. I found using a Magic Eraser I was able to clean each sensor contacts very quickly and without a mess or other chemicals.

I just used the hammer and big screwdriver method to open and close the ring. HOWEVER, I did use channel locks to bend each hook over the ring to make it easier to close, then bent them into place back after I used the hammer and screwdriver to lock the ring. Much cheaper, and easier!

I cleared my SES code, but after I filled the tank, the guage was fine, but around 3/4 to 1/2 a tank the guage stays at E. My problem was not solved.

I was ready to order new sensors when I saw your post today luboxing, great write-up, I am sure it will help many others with this problem and keep them from spending money on a good sensor.

Can you be more specific on increasing the pressure on the contacts, I believe that would be my problem, also was it both sensors that had poor pressure on the contacts?

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by luboxing View Post
I just repaired my sensors as well. It is VERY difficult if you don't have the correct tools. But anyway I bought CH-48482 (for GM) which is much cheaper($18) than J 46211 ($100) and managed to hammer it to fit murano lock ring. (CH 48482 is about 0.5 cm smaller from tooth to tooth).

Working on the passenger side is MUCH easier so I recommend that you start from it. If the problem goes away after the passenger side is done you are in good luck.

In my case I did NOT replace either sensor (potentiometer) because as I an electric engineering major I believe it should almost never fail given the working condition and current applied on it. The contact track does need to be thoroughly cleaned. Once done it should be as good as a new one.

The design of murano fuel sensors is a series of two sensors so if the fuel level is lower on side and high on the other as a result of turning while driving, the combined resistance is compensated and should be relatively stable, reflecting the average fuel level of both sides of the tank. After cleaning both sensors you may want to use a multimeter to test the series resistance to make sure connection and sensors are both in working order.


A caveat before you snap the floater piece back to the sensor: you may want to bent the two contacting points slightly outward to make sure they apply some pressure on the potentiometer track. A problem I encountered was that when the assembly was outside the tank the resistance of the sensor loop was normal (around 89 ohms depending on how much fuel you have in the tank). But once I put the assembly back the loop became open. Finally I found as the contacting points on the floater swing back to the middle of the track the pressure was too small to make a contact and the loop is discounted.


Another warning is that putting the lock ring back on the driver side is EXTREMELY difficult because:
1. The assembly has springs that push the bottom of the tank so you have to offset the pressure in order to press the ring as low as possible to the floor. I think the new seal is barely adding much additional pressure because it is relatively thinner than the displacement of the spring.
2. In order to lock the ring you will have to simultaneously push ALL five points on the ring and turn the wrench. So you'd have to apply downward pressure and turning at the same time.

If you struggle with the ring, a way to temporary close it is to use five quarters (yes I mean coins) to lock the assembly without the ring. It is a lot easier but make sure you don't accidentally drop some of them into the tank adding to the cost of repair

I also made the work slightly easier by using dremel tools to grind a small ramp on each of the 5 openings on the ring where sliding begins. You may also use some small metal inserts to lock the ring down (one at a time) to the hooks before you start turning the wrench. This allows you to focus on turning rather than pushing and turn.


Good luck!
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#21 Old 09-21-2012, 01:53 AM
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ti55uck5: here is a drawing I made that I hope will help you. Since constant pressure from the spring is required for contact, and in order to clean the PCB board you will have to remove the floater arm, you will have an opportunity to check if the spring is still bending toward the contact surface. If not you may slightly bend it outward a little to make sure the contact is reliable when re-installed. Hope it helps!
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#22 Old 09-21-2012, 02:14 AM
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luboxing: Thanks for the diagram, and explanation, I'm very confident that will fix my problem! Great job diagnosing the exact cause of failure, you probably saved me some $$!

I'll post back if this fixed my issue!
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#23 Old 09-22-2012, 10:46 PM
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Fixed!!

Thanks to the guidance of louboxing I was able to fix my fuel level sensors today, without having to buy new ones.

Cleaning the sensors was not enough to fix my problem, as louboxing said, the metal piece that makes contact with the sensor just needed to be bent more. It was very easy to do, you can easily do it with your fingers. The metal piece is about 1" x 0.5", it is very thin, which is why it is prone to lose its tension over time.

Louboxing- I was thinking it would have been a small coiled spring like from the clicking mechanism of a pen, not a piece of stamped steel.

I ordered 2 new Fuel Tank Pump seals, the driver side was torn when I reopened it this afternoon. Until they get here I put duct tape around the ring to stop any fumes.
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#24 Old 09-23-2012, 04:32 PM
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Congarts, ti55uck5!

Good job, ti55uck5. BTW I didn't know you need seals. Since I opened the lock rings with the tool, both rings are almost as good as new ones so I put them back in without replacement. Now I am selling both seals on ebay cheaper than online retailers.

NISSAN MURANO FUEL TANK O-RING FOR FUEL PUMP GENUINE NISSAN | eBay

Feel free to take it if you want and good luck!
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#25 Old 12-20-2012, 04:12 PM
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Angry Fuel Level Sending Unit

I read the thread on replacing the sending unit. I have my 2009 Morano in at the dealer to replace both units because I do not want the other unit to fail shortly after repairing this one. The cost is going to be $620.
This car has only 50k miles since new. Since Sep 2012 the head gaskests had to be replaced due to leaking, then the throttle body was BAD two days after getting the car back from the Head GAsket repair. Now the fuel semding units failed. Nissen repaired the head gaskets under the 60K engine warranty. After I objected to the $1000 repair for the throttle body they also did that uner the warranty. I have to pay for the sending units.
I feel it is NOT unreasonable to expect to drive this car much longer than 50K miles before such repairs are even imagined.
The future does not look bright for this cars reliability. My suggestion is, when purchasing a Nissen vehicle, include a 100K bumper to bumper warranty. I believe it will pay for itsef in short order.

Last edited by rpogatchnik; 12-20-2012 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
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#26 Old 01-16-2013, 05:56 PM
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I will be attempting to clean the fuel sensors in the near future. I have no codes, but my gas gauge is erratic and never reads full & quickly drops below 1/2 a tank.
Nice pics & info so far and I'm looking for any additional pointers.

-Did you guys disconnect the battery while working on the tank?

-The 90 degree hose on top of the one unit looks to have a clip to release it,
exactly how do you release the strait hose next to it?

-As both units look pretty much the same where they attach to the tank,
what makes one side so much more difficult to remove & install?

-Those of you who cleaned and/or bent the springs on the sender unit - has
the repair held up ?
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#27 Old 02-05-2013, 05:04 PM
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I didn't disconnect the battery when replacing the units.

I can't remember exactly how the strait hose comes off. It seems like you might have to compress two points on the side of the hose, then pull it off. You'll be able to tell once you get your hands on it. I do know that it isn't difficult.

luboxing does a good job of explaining why the drivers side is so much more difficult to get back on. The actual assembly is located on the drivers side, and you have to compress the springs on the assembly when replacing the cover. This added with the new seal makes for very tight fit. As luboxing said, you'll have to make sure you push on all of the contact points while turning. Taking either side off is fairly easy if you have the right tools.

I didn't bend either of the units, but I did clean the unit on the passenger side. I don't have the Murano anymore, but I had no more problems with either unit after this repair. I don't know if the second unit needed to be cleaned, but I know that it didn't hurt.
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#28 Old 03-10-2013, 10:46 PM
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No, I did not disconnect the battery.

The clip for the hose releases easily when you squeeze the top of it with pliers and pull it off.

The driver side is more difficult because the fuel pump is on that side, meaning you have to push down harder to close it up.

My sensors have worked perfectly since I cleaned them, and bent the contact to add more tension to the sensor (cleaning was not enough).

Thats what was happening to mine as well, but this fixed it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by me123 View Post
I will be attempting to clean the fuel sensors in the near future. I have no codes, but my gas gauge is erratic and never reads full & quickly drops below 1/2 a tank.
Nice pics & info so far and I'm looking for any additional pointers.

-Did you guys disconnect the battery while working on the tank?

-The 90 degree hose on top of the one unit looks to have a clip to release it,
exactly how do you release the strait hose next to it?

-As both units look pretty much the same where they attach to the tank,
what makes one side so much more difficult to remove & install?

-Those of you who cleaned and/or bent the springs on the sender unit - has
the repair held up ?
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#29 Old 05-27-2013, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rpogatchnik View Post
I have my 2009 Morano in at the dealer to replace both units because I do not want the other unit to fail shortly after repairing this one.
What where your symptoms?

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Loaded w/ NAV 20" rims
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#30 Old 06-22-2013, 05:11 PM
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Just did mine this afternoon.

The passenger side float contacts had barely any tension (they lay almost flat when the float arm was disconnected). As suggested previously, rubbed a Mr. Clean magic eraser on the contacts and contact board though I suspect it was the tension causing the intermittent signal since both surfaces looked clean with no visible yellowing or varnish.

The driver side I didn't even bother completely removing the assembly. I just pulled everything out half way, disconnected, cleaned, re-tensioned the float arm, re-connected and put everything back in. The driver side float contacts still had decent tension (stuck up about 30 degrees when removed) but I bent them a little more just to be sure.

Some tips on the process:

No need to completely remove the back seats. Just undo the bottom bolts, swing the bottom cushions up, buckle the left and right belts, activate the child seat locking by pulling the belts all the way out and then guide the belts over the bottom brackets to hold the cushions up.

I removed the locking rings with a screwdriver and hammer alternating between different notches. I had also bent the tabs slight outward (if you look closely the locking ring has a little triangular point which fits into a bend in each tab and bending the tabs outward helps relieve the tension).

As ti55uck5 suggested, when putting the ring back on, push down on the locking ring and twist each tab slightly until it's on top of the ring. Then you can work on just turning the ring without worrying about holding it down. No need to actually bend the tabs back since I've seen this done on other cars as backup safety (even if the ring somehow manages to twist loose, the bent tabs will prevent it from coming off).
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