Brake upgrade.....rotors?????

[Ducman82]

SO whats the 411 on the slotted rotors on ebay? any good/bad experiences? and any better pads then stock?

thanks for any info boys,

jake

[Ducman82]

im decided to stick with stock pads, but i am still looking for better rotors..... so far EBC's are at the top of the list.

[ridepowder]

I just put in powerstop brake kit K119.

I went that way cause 1) the parts guy recommended it. 2 the price at $330 for all 4 rotors and 4 pads and all rotors slotted and drilled sounded great to me. and 3 the site I was on had like 190 reviews and everyone giving the kits 4.5 or 5 stars.

I put them in yesterday, they fit like the oem and I have to say so far so good. they are quite, stopping distance is decent(hard to say if better) and the rotors look awesome. i hate brake dust yellowing rims...the reviews spoke highly of it only time will tell 4 me.

[ridepowder]

These kits come with new shims. You'll need to buy your own anti squeal grease.

[njjoe]

rp-

Did you have any difficulty removing the rear rotors? I am looking to replace mine but fear they may be rusted to the hub. How did it go for you?

-njjoe

[ridepowder]

I did the whole job in about 4 hours including a trip to get a big c-clamp and taking my time. My murano is a 2006 with 104,000kms on it. Not really. I'm a novice mechanic and found this site extremely helpful when dealing with the parking brake adjustment. There's access to the rotor face through the shield in behind that I was using to hammer the **** out of cause I was replacing them anyways and thinking at the time it was rusted on. Then I remembered I put the ebrake on when I jacked up the front of the car to do the front brakes lol. After talking the brake off the other side came off with a little light pounding with a hammer. Spray it with brake cleaner around the hub, then tab in all directions around the area that the lugs go through to loosen it off the hub. Not to bad at all! A lot of crap came falling out as I hit it. I thought about putting antiseize on the hub when I took it off but I didn't have any handy. At the cost of the power stop kit I imagine i'll never turn a rotor again. The ebrake is a drum brake in behind the rotor which I thought was interesting. I hadn't seen that before. I search this forum and found instructions to tighten it. U can get the Power stop kit for just the rear brakes as well.

[njjoe]

rp-

Thanks for the advice.

I replaced the front rotors about a year ago and have had the rear rotors and new pads sitting in the shed since then. That may be next Saturday's project.

-njjoe

[Pilgrim]

Good posts, and very helpful!

I keep a tube of anti-seize around...handy stuff, not expensive.

[Warhammer]

I used the EBC USR's all the way around. Also got Hawk performance pads. Quite grippy now!

When my OEM setup warped, I decided to go with the AutoZone DuraLast Gold brand rotors and Cmax pads. Complete junk. Front disks warped quickly and the pads were falling apart! I did the front end again and was good for a few months until my accident on December of 2010. Coming to a quick stop after getting rear ended must have left some pad material on the front disks. The fronts warped again! So I got my money back from AutoZone and went with the EBC setup. Been happy since.

[Pilgrim]

So what is EBC and where are they found?

I find the stock brakes and pads entirely adequate for driving the mountains here in Colorado, but I'm due for rear pads. I may just go Nissan OEM from an online vendor.

Nissan Parts Warehouse gets $60 for the OEM rear pads.

[JayS]

Those of you saying you "warped" rotors, who tightens your lug nuts? Rotors actually almost never really warp from brake heat. If you let some dumbass at the local tire shop zip your lugs on with an impact and end up with a couple lugs at 200 ft/lbs and a couple other at 100 ft/lbs like impact wrenches do that will warp a rotor. More often though the pulsing people feel and call warping is just cheap pads leaving patches of material on the rotor surface.

Using properly torqued lugs and quality pads I've heated brakes up to the point that the rubber boots on the caliper and slide pins melted at track events with no warping issues with even cheap autozone blank rotors. Talk to anyone that really pushes brakes and they'll tell you to save that money you were going to blow on flashy drilled/slotted street racer rotors and buy a basic quality blank (napa's premium blanks are my personal favorite) and spend your extra money on good pads. Napa's pro ceramic line is a great street pad with low dust, or step up to the Hawk HPS for more stopping power but with increased dust.

[Warhammer]

Not sure if my vibrations were due to warped rotors or from pad material transfer causing stickiness. Either way, they were vibrating and didn't want to mess with turning the rotors. So I opted to go with the EBC disks. I found them here: EBC Brakes Ultimax BlackDash USR Slotted Rotors for 2004 NISSAN MURANO

They were on some kind of promotion; don't remember, and free shipping. Cheapest I found them on the internet. AJUSA has some great deals from time to time.

Njjoe: Don't worry about your rear disks. Easy job. You'll just need an open/box wrench to get out the bracket assembly. Impact wrench will not fit in the space provided. A good wrench and a rubber mallet will get it out easy. Whole rear end job in a bit over an hour if you know what you're doing!

[Pilgrim]

Late note - picked up the ceramic OEM type rear pads from NAPA locally this week - no shipping charges!

[hokey777]

ridepower, now that it has been a year, are you still liking the Powerstops? Would you recommend?