Oil pan replacement - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-03-2012, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pan replacement

hey guys...been along time...hopefully things are slowing down enough that i can be more regular on here...
After going about a month with a very small oil drip in the garage, i backed out one morning last week, and noticed on the ground what had to be every drop of oil in my MO. oh, btw, its a 2006 SL AWD, totally stock engine wise, 120,000 miles.

i had just got the oil changed about 2 weeks prior at the dealership, and they said NOTHING about any leaks, or anything looking weird. So i assumed maybe it was the drain plug dripping, until the massive puddle showed up...

i checked online for any "common" MO issues and saw the oil cooler adapter plate that was prone to leaking.

Well, i crawled under to inspect, looking around the oil cooler adapter... wiped down all around the underside that was COVERED in oil, when i saw it...the oil pan was covered in quarter sized rust spots...One rust spot right in the middle of the pan, would immediately begin to soak up and drip after wiping it off...


SO, after an Auto Zone $67 pan, and $8 gasket, this is what i did last weekend...







10x 12mm bolts, and something to pry the lower pan (black, thin, CHEAP metal) from the upper pan, and then install the new gasket, or RTV, put on new pan...super easy to do!

of course, i forgot to snap a pic of the old pan...i WILL get a pic and post it in this thread soon.

2006 Murano SL AWD.....polk DXi 12", kicker amp...lots to come
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-03-2012, 01:05 PM
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Interesting to see what that oil pickup looks like. It's not as close to the bottom of the pan as some, and more rounded than some. Good reason not to let the oil get extremely low, lest you start sucking air into the oil pickup.

I didn't think a gasket was used with that pan, but the goal is simply to have no leaks. If you succeeded, then it worked fine.

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post #3 of 8 Old 12-03-2012, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Interesting to see what that oil pickup looks like. It's not as close to the bottom of the pan as some, and more rounded than some. Good reason not to let the oil get extremely low, lest you start sucking air into the oil pickup.

I didn't think a gasket was used with that pan, but the goal is simply to have no leaks. If you succeeded, then it worked fine.
yea, it didnt have a gasket on the original, but the new pan said to use a gasket instead of RTV. not sure why, but i figured if it leaked, id take it off, and use the RTV instead...no leaks yet though!

2006 Murano SL AWD.....polk DXi 12", kicker amp...lots to come
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-03-2012, 10:24 PM
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When I replaced the pan last year I opted for RTV as per the service manual. I did not realize a gasket was available.

-njjoe

2005 SL AWD, Platinum (Retired)
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Replaced with 2013 BMW x5d and 1973 MGB
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-04-2012, 10:57 AM
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The nice thing is that the system only has to avoid leaking - if the gasket works, you're good.

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post #6 of 8 Old 05-26-2015, 02:25 AM
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Oil Pan replacement

Hello


Just want to ask if you have ever replaced the upper oil pan.


I hit a rock and it broke need to replace it, have you done this job before?


Thank you
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-19-2015, 12:41 PM
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Add mine to the list, 06 Murano, 101500 miles.

Also needed to replace oil cooler line and belts.

Don't have a gasket scraper? Box cutter blade and vice grips work fine.
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-24-2015, 11:35 PM
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Just did mine today. 2004 SE with 110,000 miles. Mine was more preventative maintenance as the leading edge of the pan was rusting badly and flaking off. No oil leaks yet, but why wait? While I was in there, I replaced the oil cooler gasket and the oil cooler hard mounted line. Interestingly enough, I used a gasket for the oil pan the first go round and tightened to the recommended 88 inch/lbs using a high end torque wrench and the criss cross pattern in the service manual. The gasket blew out from the sides and tore with oil pouring from the sides with the engine warm and under pressure. I simply don't think there are enough mounting holes to support a traditional gasket. Went with RTV red the second time around and did fine there. Applied the generous bead (including around the ten bolt holes, mounted finger tight (just until RTV started to ooze out), waited an hour to set, then torqued. Waited at least two hours before adding oil, dropping her off the lift (friend's garage) and pressure testing. Good to go from there. Highly recommend avoiding the paper/fabric gasket and going with the RTV.
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