Spark Plug Replacement (how-to) - Page 3 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #31 of 84 Old 07-24-2010, 02:40 PM
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What has helped me in the past is after removing the nut, lift the wiper arm as high as it will go and then let it drop back on the windshield. The shock is usually enough to loosen it up.

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post #32 of 84 Old 07-26-2010, 06:55 AM
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Much thanks for the tip cause it worked! To be honest in my head I was thinking the whole time it wasnt going to work, but when I lifted it up, it was as if it was never stuck :P


I was able to change 4 plugs so far. I cant get the last 2 yet (if you were to face the MO they would be the ones on the top left, and top middle).
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post #33 of 84 Old 07-26-2010, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJFRDJR View Post
3. To gain access to the rear of the intake manifold, the upper cowl first needs to be removed.
a. Remove caps from left and right windshield wiper arms.
b. Place tape on windshield marking where the wiper blades make contact with the windshield.
c. Loosen and remove the nuts the hold the wiper arms.
d. Remove the wiper arms.
e. Remove rubber strip from on upper cowling, it is held on by plastic tabs that can be pulled straight up and out.
f. Remove both left and right plastic cowling covers, disconnecting washer hoses from both.
g. Remove bolts that secure the lower cowling cover string from passenger side, then remove the cowling itself.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I Avoided the above steps by using a ratchet with an extended handle, since was able to get one hand behind the intake manifold this made it easy for me.
How did you get the ones under the cowl? Maybe a couple pics if possible would help. I was able to get only the one on the top right without removing the above.
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post #34 of 84 Old 07-27-2010, 12:52 AM
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Any Suggestions what kind of spark plug is good for the MO, I've seen a NGK Laser Double Platinum series $45each totaled 270, is this better or should I go with those ordinary spark plug cost $15each watyathink...

=======================
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post #35 of 84 Old 07-27-2010, 12:54 AM
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My approach to this is that if the original plugs can last 100K, I put the same brand and model plug back in. All I need out of a set of plugs is 100K.

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post #36 of 84 Old 07-27-2010, 05:08 AM
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With all the pain in getting to the plugs....Get the same identical one at the cheapest price you can find. I agree with pilgrim.
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post #37 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 11:37 AM
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Our 03 Murano now has 117K+ and I've got the plugs in hand. I've reviewed the instructions in this sticky and am at a loss as to why the wiper blades and that plastic cowl are removed. There is a metal bracket, part of the body work, that is not removable, underneath the plastic cowl, that spans the width of the engine compartment. At least it looks to me like it's a part of the body work.

BTW, a local "Master Tech" garage quoted me over $300 yesterday to replace the plugs, and would not use my plugs as "Parts is where we make our money", as he told me.

Thanks.........

Ken in Dallas
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post #38 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DallasSEDriver View Post
Our 03 Murano now has 117K+ and I've got the plugs in hand. I've reviewed the instructions in this sticky and am at a loss as to why the wiper blades and that plastic cowl are removed. There is a metal bracket, part of the body work, that is not removable, underneath the plastic cowl, that spans the width of the engine compartment. At least it looks to me like it's a part of the body work.
I agree. I'm not sure why the wipers need removed?

I just changed my plugs. The wipers remained in place and were of no consequence to the plug job. I changed them as part of the power steering hose replacement. Now she runs better, and no driveway drips!

The old plugs had burned down to a gap of .54 -.58. I'll take a photo of them, they looked pretty beat up.

Now, I need a wheel bearing assembly. It's on the way. Hopefully, I'll be good to go through the winter. It sucks putting money into a car, but it sure beats a payment!
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post #39 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 01:35 PM
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I take it you also did the power steering hose replacement at the same time? How did you determine which hose was leaking? Was it easier with the top of the engine off? Sorry for all the questions, but I've also got a leaking PS hose.

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post #40 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 02:43 PM
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WRONG! That metal bar that spans the whole engine compartment can be removed. You have to remove the wiper arms, wiper motor assembly, the plastic cover, and only then will the bolts that hold down the bar become visible. You'll need to remove the bar to get to the back end of the engine.

It also really helps to open up the engine bay. If you have to go after the power steering pump or hoses, it might be good to remove the bar to have more working room. It takes about 30 minutes to remove it.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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post #41 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasSEDriver View Post
I take it you also did the power steering hose replacement at the same time? How did you determine which hose was leaking? Was it easier with the top of the engine off? Sorry for all the questions, but I've also got a leaking PS hose.
You can crawl under the car and do a visual inspection to see where the source is. I'll lay 50 to 1 it's the high pressure hose, I've never heard of the other (much cheaper) hose leaking.


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Originally Posted by Warhammer View Post
WRONG! That metal bar that spans the whole engine compartment can be removed. You have to remove the wiper arms, wiper motor assembly, the plastic cover, and only then will the bolts that hold down the bar become visible. You'll need to remove the bar to get to the back end of the engine.

It also really helps to open up the engine bay. If you have to go after the power steering pump or hoses, it might be good to remove the bar to have more working room. It takes about 30 minutes to remove it.
Hey, I'm not saying it can't be removed, I'm just saying the wipers don't have to be removed to change the plugs. Of course, if you want to remove it, that's ok too!

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post #42 of 84 Old 08-10-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Warhammer View Post
WRONG! That metal bar that spans the whole engine compartment can be removed. You have to remove the wiper arms, wiper motor assembly, the plastic cover, and only then will the bolts that hold down the bar become visible. You'll need to remove the bar to get to the back end of the engine.

It also really helps to open up the engine bay. If you have to go after the power steering pump or hoses, it might be good to remove the bar to have more working room. It takes about 30 minutes to remove it.

Go back to page 2 of this thread and the member describes how he did it.
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post #43 of 84 Old 10-18-2010, 01:55 PM
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Changing the plugs took longer than the 2 1/2 hours that others have taken. Car is right hand drive and wiper motor and support tray had to come off as the brackets at the back of the inlet manifold couldn't be accessed. They had to come off as the wiring stopped the manifold being lifted away. Cleaned everything up before re-assembly and now the driver side washer nozzle works as it should.
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post #44 of 84 Old 10-19-2010, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DallasSEDriver View Post

BTW, a local "Master Tech" garage quoted me over $300 yesterday to replace the plugs, and would not use my plugs as "Parts is where we make our money", as he told me.

Thanks.........
This is a true statement and should be a surprise to no one. Shops are a profit-making enterprise and the markup they make on parts is a vital part of their income.

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post #45 of 84 Old 01-01-2011, 05:18 PM
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I'm about to change the plugs on my 04 Murano. I'm really not too worried about taking off the intake manifold but I am worried about the SES light. On some other posts they mention having the battery disconnected for over 15 minutes causes issues... Does this mean you guys are changing the plugs with the battery connected? That doesn't make sense to me. I don't know why???

Is there any way to change these plugs and definitely not get the SES light???
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