Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
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1. Obtain replacement lower intake manifold gasket and 6 NGK PLFR5A-11 spark plugs. 2. Wait until engine is cool. 3. To gain access to the rear of the intake manifold, the upper cowl first needs to be removed. a. Remove caps from left and right windshield wiper arms. b. Place tape on windshield marking where the wiper blades make contact with the windshield. c. Loosen and remove the nuts the hold the wiper arms. d. Remove the wiper arms. e. Remove rubber strip from on upper cowling, it is held on by plastic tabs that can be pulled straight up and out. f. Remove both left and right plastic cowling covers, disconnecting washer hoses from both. g. Remove bolts that secure the lower cowling cover string from passenger side, then remove the cowling itself. 4. Remove engine cover. 5. Remove Intake Manifold Collector a. Remove air cleaner air duct b. Disconnect vacuum hose and water hose from intake manifold collector (3). c. Disconnect EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve (12) mounting bolt from intake manifold collector (11). d. Remove Vacuum tank (9) from intake manifold collector (11) e. Disconnect power steering hose bracket f. Remove top 2 bolts from intake manifold support bracket (15) g. Remove PCV hose (between rocker cover and intake manifold collector) h. Remove Harness bracket (5) from intake manifold. i. Remove VIAS control solenoid valve from intake manifold j. Loosen intake manifold bolts in reverse order from illustration. k. Gently lift up and remove intake manifold 6. Replace intake manifold gasket (10). 7. Repeat for each plug: a. Remove ignition coil from over plug. b. Remove spark plug using 16MM spark plug wrench c. Replace plug with: NGK PLFR5A-11 Standard Gap: 1.1 mm (0.043 in) nominal. Or same numbered plug as OEM. 8. Reassemble in reverse order and torque to spec.
Originally posted by WrenchGremlin
The job took about 2.5 hours from start to finish. The service manual left off the part about removing the lower cowl tray. I first tried to remove the intake manifold without doing that but the wiring harness, PCV hose, Power Steering Vacuum hose and rear support bracket all require better access for detachment.
If I had to do it again, I probably could get it done in about about 1.5 hours. The only other thing to be careful about is when putting the intake manifold back on, you want to make sure the back of the manifold is not resting ON the rear support bracket but rather next to it. This sort of oversight could crack a lobe off the intake manifold when tightening the bolts down.
I also replaced my front struts, which ironically seemed easier than the spark plugs.
Originally posted by Hilbe
While you're doing your spark plugs, you should think about the phenolic spacers:
It really does keep your IM nice and cool...
Originally posted by WrenchGremlin
I would consider the kit complete if it included a longer bracket to support the intake manifold as the OEM has designed. With much of the intake manifold mass centered towards the rear of the engine, the rear bracket eliminates yank force on the front manifold mounting studs when the engine is jarred. Sure studs numbered 1,2 and 3 on your diagram can probably hold the manifold steadily, but without the rear bracket it seems more likely that metal fatigue may warp the intake plenum.
During the replacement I would also recommend depressurizing the fuel line for safety since the lower intake manifold will be moved around.
Otherwise it looks like a great product and the price is right when you consider the cost of the OEM gaskets.
Originally posted by Stoker
Does anyone know the torque specs when replacing the spark plugs and the intake manifold. Any help will be appreciated.
Originally posted by njjoe
The spark plugs are 18 ft-lbs, and the torque specs for the various intake manifold bolts are listed in the diagram in WrenchGremlim's post (see above).
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