Unable to remove rusted bolt - Nissan Murano

milhouse7 · 07-17-2010, 02:40 PM

When replacing my tires, my mechanic was tryign to do a 4 wheel alignment but was unable align the rear wheels as the bolt (55110FB) which attaches the rear link (55110) which attached to the control arm was completely rusted to the metal. He was unable to remove the bolt even after trying some lubricants and is recommending changing both links.

Does anyone have experience changing these bolts, and is there a solution for removing them when heavily rusted to the metal?

ekaxel · 07-17-2010, 02:52 PM

If it has a nut, break it and replace it with a new bolt...

milhouse7 · 07-17-2010, 09:14 PM

I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the nut is rusted as well. My vehicle was originally from Ontario, Canada its first 4 years of life where they use a lot of road salt in winter.

Lightninrod · 07-18-2010, 01:25 PM

Hit the nut with a butane torch flame(be careful about any fuel leaks or plastics nearby), back it off with an air wrench, heat the link where the bolt goes through with torch, and knock the bolt out with a BIG hammer if there is room to swing it.

**Corin** · 07-18-2010, 06:35 PM

I had a very stubborn rusted bolt on my utility trailer when I was overhauling it. I got some kind of lubricant from Home Depot (I think) and I put it on a couple times over a 24 hour period, and it managed to loosen it up just enough that I could break it free.

Don't remember what it was called, but I think it was pretty standard stuff. Maybe the same stuff your mechanic tried, but just needs more time to soak in.

Do you have an air compressor to use an impact wrench or something? That helps a lot. An air wrench may just sit there to chug away like it's not doing anything, but eventually it starts moving. I've sat for a full 5 minutes banging away with the air wrench with no movement before it all of a sudden just came loose.

PMcD · 07-18-2010, 08:50 PM

FYI....picked up from MTF:
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Results are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Source:

http://forums.thecarlounge.net/showthread.php?4547049

**zebelkhan** · 07-19-2010, 12:51 AM

ATF-Acetone mix? Got to try that one...

**Corin** · 07-19-2010, 01:16 AM

I think Liquid Wrench was the name of the one I tried.

Keep in mind with all of these that they really are not very environmentally friendly (or animal/kid friendly either), so be careful where you're using them and how you dispose of any leftover fluids. This kind of stuff is nasty.

**njjoe** · 07-19-2010, 11:09 AM

PMcD-

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing the info on the penetrating oils. I found that very interesting.

I am a firm believer in penetrating oils. I live on the waterfront and any good storm sends salt water spray into the air, so it does not take long for rust to form on non-stainless hardware.

I usually carry a small can of WD-40 on my tool belt, but after reading your post I will be changing over to Liquid Wrench.

Thanks again.

-njjoe

Warhammer · 07-19-2010, 01:11 PM

Interesting read. I had a rusty nut round out on me when I was trying to get the muffler assembly off for my hitch installation. Looks like I'll hit it with the 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix and try again with one of those nut grabbing tools.

No pun intended...

I HATE the fact that stuff rusts out on cars. Rusty nuts and bolts can turn a quick job into a serious headache!

Pilgrim · 07-20-2010, 11:31 AM

Been using Aero-Kroil for 10+ years. Good stuff.

Best bet is usually a combination of penetrating oil, patience, and heat. Sometimes torch heating will break things loose when nothing else will. Problem for a mechanic is that they're paid by time and not eager to have stuff sitting in the shop for a couple of days. But if they can hit it with penetrating oil and park it for a while, that should be OK

TopazM3 · 07-30-2010, 02:50 PM

I've used Aero Kroil for about 10 years and it is great stuff. I've also used the home made acetone/ATF mix and it also works great..... and much cheaper.

Eclipse1825 · 07-30-2010, 05:41 PM

I use the sili kroil it is amazing!

mgthe3 · 08-01-2010, 08:51 PM

Liquid wrench and pop it with a hammer a few times on a socket two sizes smaller on an extension. The vibration works the LW into the threads.

You have to let it sit a while after whacking it.

I did this on a 1 1/4 inch nut on the rear suspension of a 1 ton dually.
I still had to use a 3 foot cheater on the end of a 24 inch 3/4 inch ratchet handle. It had defied legs + arms + back before I put the liquid wrench to it and gave it a few whacks. It CREEEEEKed loudly all 4 inches of the bolt when it came loose.

laverda1200 · 08-05-2010, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milhouse7

When replacing my tires, my mechanic was tryign to do a 4 wheel alignment but was unable align the rear wheels as the bolt (55110FB) which attaches the rear link (55110) which attached to the control arm was completely rusted to the metal. He was unable to remove the bolt even after trying some lubricants and is recommending changing both links.

Does anyone have experience changing these bolts, and is there a solution for removing them when heavily rusted to the metal?

Hi

I don't get it. That is a through bolt with a nut on the other end of it, so to replace the link he is going to have to get the rusted frozen bolt out, which he says he can't do.....? I grew up in Ontario, and owned lots of rusty beaters, so you do develop tactics for dealing with rusty fasteners.....

on my Murano I just dealt with a similar problem of a frozen/rusted solid through bolt, in my case the pinch bolt in the front end on each side, holding captive the front tie rod ends.

even after getting the rusty nut off each side with a high torque air impact gun, the bolt itself was frozen in place by rust. Hammering on it with a blunt drift and sledge hammer didn't move it.

I liberally applied Liquid Wrench, fired up a propane torch, heated the assembly smoking hot while the Liquid Wrench sizzled away, and I kept heating and kept applying Liquid Wrench. Then I fired up the air impact on the bolt end at its highest torque setting, and let it hammer away while I continued to heat the bolt and assembly. Took about 15 minutes per side to finally get the bolt reluctantly rotatinga little bit at a time, and another few minutes before it started to spin, when I could then drive it out.

don't re-use the rusty bolts, buy new, and I coat the new ones with anti-seize before installation.

this is basic basic mechanics, not rocket science, I would be looking for a new mechanic myself.......

Paul

07-17-2010, 02:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
milhouse7 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 7	Unable to remove rusted bolt When replacing my tires, my mechanic was tryign to do a 4 wheel alignment but was unable align the rear wheels as the bolt (55110FB) which attaches the rear link (55110) which attached to the control arm was completely rusted to the metal. He was unable to remove the bolt even after trying some lubricants and is recommending changing both links. Does anyone have experience changing these bolts, and is there a solution for removing them when heavily rusted to the metal? Attached Thumbnails __________________ 2004 NISSAN MURANO SE NAVI - PEARL WHITE

07-17-2010, 02:52 PM	#2 (permalink)
ekaxel Super Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 1,902	If it has a nut, break it and replace it with a new bolt... __________________ '03 SL everything but OEM Nav Magellan Maestro 5.3"LCD, custom dash mount, hardwire 5v power supply Valentine One radar detector Black grille 2005 tires & wheels DrawTite 2" receiver hitch & homemade harness DRL Aftermarket alarm Magnetbra Full spare tire Roof rails with crossbars Aluminum fuel tank shield(s) finally! Optima Red Top battery HID fogs/DRL 3 new door lock assemblies 235/65R17 Dean Wintercat snows on very old 17" mags Color display screen

07-17-2010, 09:14 PM	#3 (permalink)
milhouse7 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 7	I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the nut is rusted as well. My vehicle was originally from Ontario, Canada its first 4 years of life where they use a lot of road salt in winter. __________________ 2004 NISSAN MURANO SE NAVI - PEARL WHITE

07-18-2010, 01:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
Lightninrod Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Warner Robins, GA CSA Posts: 458	Hit the nut with a butane torch flame(be careful about any fuel leaks or plastics nearby), back it off with an air wrench, heat the link where the bolt goes through with torch, and knock the bolt out with a BIG hammer if there is room to swing it. __________________ "We are fast approaching the stage of the ultimate inversion: the stage where the government is free to do anything it pleases, while the citizens may act only by permission; which is the stage of the darkest periods of human history, the stage of rule by brute force." Ayn Rand...

07-18-2010, 06:35 PM	#5 (permalink)
Corin Moderator Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Seattle Area Posts: 2,074	I had a very stubborn rusted bolt on my utility trailer when I was overhauling it. I got some kind of lubricant from Home Depot (I think) and I put it on a couple times over a 24 hour period, and it managed to loosen it up just enough that I could break it free. Don't remember what it was called, but I think it was pretty standard stuff. Maybe the same stuff your mechanic tried, but just needs more time to soak in. Do you have an air compressor to use an impact wrench or something? That helps a lot. An air wrench may just sit there to chug away like it's not doing anything, but eventually it starts moving. I've sat for a full 5 minutes banging away with the air wrench with no movement before it all of a sudden just came loose. __________________ ~ Corin ---------------------------------------- 2005 MO SL AWD, Platinum w/ Charcoal Cloth, Sunroof Pkg, Tow Pkg, XM Sat, StonGard, Stainless "Z" Grill, air horns, ipod magic box, Garmin c320, Carseat <sigh> 2008 Zap Xebra Electric Car (with many upgrades) 1998 Chevy Prism LSI (hey, it works) Already have a deposit down on the Nissan Leaf (to replace the Prizm)

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07-18-2010, 08:50 PM	#6 (permalink)
PMcD Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 1	FYI....picked up from MTF: Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Results are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Source: http://forums.thecarlounge.net/showthread.php?4547049

07-19-2010, 12:51 AM	#7 (permalink)
zebelkhan Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 5,213	ATF-Acetone mix? Got to try that one... __________________ 2004 SL AWD - Super Black - Leather Package (Café latte) - Tow Package - Floor Mats - Splash Guards - Cargo Area Protector - Rear Bumper Protector - Front Window Tint - Dawn Color Matched Body Side Molding – Day Time Running Lights - PAC-NIS1 Aux Audio input - Pressure Pro TPMS and Anti Theft Sensor Locks - 7" Xenarc VGA Touchscreen - Compaq EVO e-PC 2.0 GHz Pentium 4 Carputer with 120GB HD, DSATX PSU / Shutdown Controller, Road Runner Front End, iGuidance 3.0 Navigation, DVD player, Internet access, XM satellite radio, Deluo GPS receiver, Linksys WiFi Antenna, TERK XM antenna - Tweeter 22uF CAP mod - Magnetbra - Custom Backup Camera - Aries Polished Stainless Steel Sidestep (nerf) Bars - Euro-Tech Nudge Bar - Homemade Lower Grill Cover - Auxiliary Projection Fog Lamps - Aluminum Fuel Tank Shields - Wade Window Deflectors - Nissan Sunroof Deflector - Scosche UBRH Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit

07-19-2010, 01:16 AM	#8 (permalink)
Corin Moderator Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Seattle Area Posts: 2,074	I think Liquid Wrench was the name of the one I tried. Keep in mind with all of these that they really are not very environmentally friendly (or animal/kid friendly either), so be careful where you're using them and how you dispose of any leftover fluids. This kind of stuff is nasty. __________________ ~ Corin ---------------------------------------- 2005 MO SL AWD, Platinum w/ Charcoal Cloth, Sunroof Pkg, Tow Pkg, XM Sat, StonGard, Stainless "Z" Grill, air horns, ipod magic box, Garmin c320, Carseat <sigh> 2008 Zap Xebra Electric Car (with many upgrades) 1998 Chevy Prism LSI (hey, it works) Already have a deposit down on the Nissan Leaf (to replace the Prizm)

07-19-2010, 11:09 AM	#9 (permalink)
njjoe Super Moderator Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Jersey Shore Posts: 9,647	PMcD- Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing the info on the penetrating oils. I found that very interesting. I am a firm believer in penetrating oils. I live on the waterfront and any good storm sends salt water spray into the air, so it does not take long for rust to form on non-stainless hardware. I usually carry a small can of WD-40 on my tool belt, but after reading your post I will be changing over to Liquid Wrench. Thanks again. -njjoe __________________ 2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields

07-19-2010, 01:11 PM	#10 (permalink)
Warhammer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rio Rancho, NM Posts: 1,625	Interesting read. I had a rusty nut round out on me when I was trying to get the muffler assembly off for my hitch installation. Looks like I'll hit it with the 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix and try again with one of those nut grabbing tools. No pun intended... I HATE the fact that stuff rusts out on cars. Rusty nuts and bolts can turn a quick job into a serious headache! __________________ *Ain't nothin' MO fun than drivin' a MO.*

07-20-2010, 11:31 AM	#11 (permalink)
Pilgrim Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 768	Been using Aero-Kroil for 10+ years. Good stuff. Best bet is usually a combination of penetrating oil, patience, and heat. Sometimes torch heating will break things loose when nothing else will. Problem for a mechanic is that they're paid by time and not eager to have stuff sitting in the shop for a couple of days. But if they can hit it with penetrating oil and park it for a while, that should be OK __________________ 2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i 1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder

07-30-2010, 02:50 PM	#12 (permalink)
TopazM3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: WV Posts: 202	I've used Aero Kroil for about 10 years and it is great stuff. I've also used the home made acetone/ATF mix and it also works great..... and much cheaper.

07-30-2010, 05:41 PM	#13 (permalink)
Eclipse1825 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: NW Arkansas Posts: 147	I use the sili kroil it is amazing! __________________ 2006 Nissan Murano SE AWD Platinum Pearl Metallic-Fully Loaded! 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada SE Smoke 4x4- 2 Degree Advanced Timing, Air-Box Mod, K&N Drop In Filter, Active Tuning Grounding Kit, Chrome OEM Grille, Bug Deflector, V8 Emblems, LE Emblem, Front and Back Mud Flaps, Big Tow Package, Prodigy Brake Controller, Microfilter, Floor Mats,Qx56 Chrome Wheels, OEM Fog Lights, Back-Up Camera! 1997 Mitsubishi Montero SR-Fully Loaded! 16FT Steel Bed Car Hauler 1966 M543 A2 5 Ton Wrecker, 1952 & 54 M-37, 1947 B-1 Power Wagon, 1967 M-6217 x 2, 1969 M-715, 1967 M-715, M-101 Trailer x 8,

08-01-2010, 08:51 PM	#14 (permalink)
mgthe3 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Atlanta Posts: 2,064	Liquid wrench and pop it with a hammer a few times on a socket two sizes smaller on an extension. The vibration works the LW into the threads. You have to let it sit a while after whacking it. I did this on a 1 1/4 inch nut on the rear suspension of a 1 ton dually. I still had to use a 3 foot cheater on the end of a 24 inch 3/4 inch ratchet handle. It had defied legs + arms + back before I put the liquid wrench to it and gave it a few whacks. It CREEEEEKed loudly all 4 inches of the bolt when it came loose. __________________ 2010 Titan Crewcab XE had an 07 S Brilliant Silver had an 04 SL Sheer Silver

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