1st Gen Murano Wheel Bearing Replacement -- Step-by-step - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 09-04-2010, 02:29 PM
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1st Gen Murano Wheel Bearing Replacement -- Step-by-step

Working on replacing the right front wheel bearing on my wife's 2004 SL. Wheel off, brake caliper & mount off, brake rotor off, cotter pin and axle nut off, four bolts holding wheel bearing unit to steering knuckle off. Now I'm at a bit of an impasse as to what I need to do next.

I have a pdf of the service manual, and it says to separate the steering outer socket (tie rod) from the steering knuckle. Why do I need to do this? Do I need to remove the entire steering knuckle from the car in order to get the wheel bearing out?

Manual also notes to use a puller to remove the wheel bearing assembly. How? I have several pullers, but they all need to have something solid in the center to push against. In this case, the axle/driveshaft simply slides back, which obviously means the puller won't work.

Several threads have made references to people "beating" on the wheel bearing assembly to remove it. There's very little room to get at the back side of the wheel bearing or even the four mounting bolts. Not sure how people are getting any room to swing the 4 lb. sledge hammers I'm reading about.

I've done a search here and even through Google and I'm just not finding anything that really provides much clarity around what really needs to be done.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mark Hatten
www.woundedduc.net
2004 Murano SL AWD
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#2 Old 09-05-2010, 12:39 AM
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I have not done this but from what I know you do not need a puller unless the axle is stuck inside the hub assembly. You do have to pull the hub and the bearing together. There are four bolts that hold the hub in place. These bolts are accessed from behind the rock plate. If you can access them without the axle being in the way, then just remove them and the hub should come right out. Just make sure you have disconnected and removed the wheel sensor. If the bolts are not accessible, then you will have to remove the axle from the steering knuckle which will require you to either get the ball joint off or remove the two bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut so that the assembly could be moved.

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#3 Old 09-10-2010, 01:08 AM
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Hi Matt

I just replaced both front wheel hubs on my 03 AWD yesterday. I live in a climate with harsh winters, and corrosion IS an issue.

ignore the nonsense in the manual about removing the steering knuckle, not necessary.

you have to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor, as it sticks down into a notch in the wheel hub, and the wheel hub won't come off with the sensor still in place. In my case, the 10 mm headed single bolt was rusted in place, which heat and penetrating oil thankfully solved, but teach sensor was absolutely frozen in place in its hole on each front wheel assembly. I couldn't get them out, until I resigned myself to drilling each out, and the buggers are expensive. Really stupid design. I then overdrilled the sensor hole, and will pack the new ones back in place with liberal antiseize compound.

There is nothing holding the wheel hub assembly in once you remove the 4 bolts, and the axle nut. Rather, all that is holding the hub assembly in is corrosion. I tried a 3 pound, then 5 pound, slide hammer, trying to shock the hub assembly loose. Then I tried putting one of the 4 bolts loosely back in and wacking on it from behind with a punch and a hammer. Sucker didn't move. I finally resorted to a 3 pound hand sledge, turned the wheel as far to one side as possible and went at the edge of the hub from the inside of the wheel well front side, ignoring the damage I was doing to the front tabs of the sheet metal rock guard. The harder you hit the darn thing, with as much weight as possible, the easier the process will be for you. The hub only has to move outwards maybe less than a half inch to come free. The hub is not going to be re-used, bash the sucker as hard as you can.

you could also go the extra step of removing the entire steering knuckle, would give you better working access to the back of the hub I suppose, but not necessary.

I have been getting all my parts from World Parts Express, the Online Superstore for All Factory Auto Parts and Accessoriesgenuine OEM NIssan parts, come in the Nissan packaging, for lkes than a third of the price of my local western Canadian dealer even after Canadian to US dollar conversion and shipping and duty, I have been really pleased.

I REALLY wasn't happy about having to buy a pair of brand new ABS/wheel speed sesnors just to change out the front hubs/wheel bearings. There is a post on this forum somewhere of a fellow who cut out an open notch in the back of the hub to be able to leave the ABS sensors in place when the hub is changed, I think you would have to pull the steering knuckle off the car to get access to do that modification....

on my car, everything in the front end went at once at just less than 100,000 miles. I replaced both lower control arms( bushings and ball joint were toast), tie rod ends, wheel bearings/hubs (front left was crap, but replaced both sides), and I have new KYB struts on order as the struts/strut top mount/strut boots are all crap as well. Parts cost over the Internet including the KYB strust on order have been a third or less of dealer cost, and I have done all the labour myself, so my total parts cost will be only slightly less than $1,000 approximately by the time I am done, for what I was quoted $2,750 from the dealer parts (control arms/tie rod ends/wheel hubs/front struts/ABS sensors)plus roughly a further $1,000 labour, plus tax and shop supplies, would have been close to $4,000 for a vehicle that isn't worth more than $10,000 max at this point.

I bought my 03 new, and will drive it tiill it dies beyond economic repair, but this latest go round of maintenance has been an eye opener, Truly stupid design of the front suspension and front drive from a cost efficient maintenance perspective, I doubt I will buy another Murano as a result, too frigging expensive/time consuming to repair, and at less than 100,000 miles, ridiculous from my perspective compared to the other vehicles in my household.

Paul
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#4 Old 09-10-2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by laverda1200 View Post
Hi Matt

I bought my 03 new, and will drive it tiill it dies beyond economic repair, but this latest go round of maintenance has been an eye opener, Truly stupid design of the front suspension and front drive from a cost efficient maintenance perspective, I doubt I will buy another Murano as a result, too frigging expensive/time consuming to repair, and at less than 100,000 miles, ridiculous from my perspective compared to the other vehicles in my household.

Paul
While having the front passenger side bearing replaced and during the process the tech broke the ABS sensor. The wife drove off and reported bad brake noises. Had to go back the next day to find they broke the sensor. Anyway, the shop paid for a new sensor but the job plus alignment was expensive. I never did a job like that and would have been intimidated.

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#5 Old 09-11-2010, 12:11 AM
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I am post in fairly late and I am sure you have figured it out by now.

Be very careful with the abs sensor. After removing the screw, I coated it with WD40, let is soak and tried to bring it up more. I repeated this over and over until it finally came out.

After that I hit it with electronics cleaner to get it in good shape. I also cleaned out the hole it went into too. Maybe make it easier next time, if there is a next time.

No need to remove the bolt at the bottom pinching the ball joint in place. Also do not take any of the strut bolts off at the very top.

Remove the 4 bolts using the knuckle and remove the ABS sensor from the hub.

The hub just sits in a circle.Its not beating the thing outwards as much as it is beating it up and down or side to side trying to break the rust seal that formed. When dealing with the hub, I hit the side of the place where it bolts down forcing it to spin in a circle and break the rust seal.

After this, getting it to come out was fairly simple. Of course I did it all with a standard claw hammer instead of a 4 lb hammer. It took some time but I got it done.

Pressure + Time for the win
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#6 Old 09-18-2010, 12:18 AM
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If you are having problems taking out the 10mm bolt for the sensor, don't panic yet.
If you have tried EVERYTHING to get the sensor out and all has failed there is one more trick.
You can beat the hub out on the opposite side of the sensor. This will make the hub come out sideways. Once you get it out as much as you can it WILL clear the sensor and you can pull the hub out without damaging the sensor.
The new hub has clearance for the sensor and will go right in.

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#7 Old 01-07-2011, 12:53 PM
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I just changed out one of my wheel bearings yesterday. Turns out they both need to be replaced but changing one already made a HUGE difference. Here is what I learned. 1st off it DOES resolve the issue of your tires sounding like off road tires... a very noticeable hum when you drive that does not really change when you turn right, left, or varying surfaces.

I ran into the same issue with the pulley as HatMan. When trying to push in the center, it just kept moving back. The issue is that the center you are trying to push against is on an elbow. So it’s like pushing against your fist with your arm bent. Your elbow will continue to bend. The FIX so you CAN use a Pulley is to get the hub assembly parallel to the rest of the armature, in my case I used a jack. Then i was able push against the center. Worked like a champ. The second bearing will go much quicker after figuring that out. Hope this helps.
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#8 Old 01-24-2011, 12:59 PM
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Front left hub

Do u need a large socket to get the not off or can u use a channel lock. If so, do u recall the nut size.
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#9 Old 01-24-2011, 01:23 PM
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I wanna say it was 32mm or 36mm. I would NOT use a channel lock. When you put evyerthing back together you want to torque everything to the correct specs, which you cannot do with the locks. If you have an autozone around you can rent everything you need. They have you buy it and then you just return it for a full refund without hassle. This way they are not liable. When I did mine I just rented both of the sockets since I wasnt sure which I would need, along with a breaker bar and a puller. If you don ot have one rent the torque rench as well.
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#10 Old 01-24-2011, 11:27 PM
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Sounds good. Thank's for the help.
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#11 Old 02-10-2011, 05:19 PM
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Didn't want to start a new thread which would basically be the same question.

I need to replace one, possibly both front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. If anyone has taken it to the dealership, how much did it cost?

I found the part online for ~$109, but I don't have all the tools so I'll need to buy a few of my own. This is the correct part?
Amazon Amazon

Secondly, if I did this myself, can anyone give me a list of tools I'll need? I have a basic mechanics set, but it looks like I'll have to buy/rent a 36mm socket. Any other special tools besides a regular mechanics set?
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#12 Old 02-10-2011, 05:50 PM
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It coated me 680 dollars to replace both front hub assemblies

It's a common repair in the truck

Change the rotors at the same time if you have the dreaded shimmy Boise

Gl
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#13 Old 02-10-2011, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by commodore64 View Post
It coated me 680 dollars to replace both front hub assemblies

It's a common repair in the truck

Change the rotors at the same time if you have the dreaded shimmy Boise

Gl
Thanks, sounds like I'll still be saving money even if I have to buy tools.
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#14 Old 03-02-2011, 01:19 PM
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This may sound like a stupid question, but is the hub issue only related to 2WD MOs?

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#15 Old 03-02-2011, 05:41 PM
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...is the hub issue only related to 2WD MOs?
Don't think so. 2WD and AWD hubs are the same and AWD MO is 2WD almost all the time except when slippery. So both types should wear out the same way.

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