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DIY: Power Steering High Pressure line repair

158K views 127 replies 81 participants last post by  nissrano07 
#1 ·
Due to the frequent failure of this power steering line I thought I would take some pictures as I replaced mine today. This was my first time doing this job on the Murano so bare with me..

Vehicle: 2007 Nissan Murano AWD S

Tools Needed:
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
#10 wrench
#14 wrench
flat head screw driver
adjustable wrench
Pliers
#14 socket
#10 socket
Ratchet
bucket

Parts needed:
High Pressure line from Nissan Dealership $282
2 quarts of Nissan Power Steering Fluid $5 each
2 crush washers $2 each

Part #s
PS high pressure Hose & Tube Assembly part # 49720-CC10A 282.28

Power Steering fluid part # 999MP-AG00P 5.20

Gasket connector / crush washer part # 49726-Y0100 9.30

( I could have got the crush washers and ps fluid cheaper elsewhere but I wanted to make sure nothing went wrong )


Fist thing you need to do is remove passenger side tire. Then you need to remove the splash guard from behind tire. U will see the oil filter and power steering pump pulley.




Next thing you need to do is loosen the big banjo bolt from the pump. I didnt have a socket big enough so I used a big adjustable wrench. Once that is loose let the fluid drip into a bucket , pan of your choice.



Once that is done dripping I recommend putting a sandwhich bag on it so it doesnt continue to drip while you are removing it getting ps fluid everywhere.



Next you need to loosen two small 10mm screws that hold this bracket down and then loosen the hardline from the steering rack. Once the bracket is loose and hardline is disconnected you need to undo the plastic bracket holding down the rubber hose by unclipping the top and it opens up like a book.



Now to get the last screw out and to remove the power steering line you need to take the cowel off to make room. To do this you need to remove the two caps from the top of the windsheild wipers and then loosen the two nuts. Once from each wiper , they are 14mm bolts and once they are loose you need to really wiggle the wipers to get them off. Then you simply use the pliers to unclip the clips from the bottom of the cowel and remove. Then you need to unscrew all the little 10mm screws around the hard metal part of the cowel. Once that is all off it will look like this.



Then you will have access to the last screw here , loosen it and remove and the line is now free. Remove line and install new line in reverse order using two new crush washers. Make sure everything is tight and then fill reservoir with fluid and start car. Once engine is running the ps pump will suck the fluid out of resevoir into the lines and you will need to add to full line. At this point I got in car and turn wheel all the way left and all the way right with reservoir cover off to let the fluid work into the system and let any air pockets out of the system.. Total cost was $320 for all the parts and about 3 hours of my time , could have been faster but the last banjo bolt gave me a hard time.

Last bolt is behind the Intake manifold , you will see the shiny heat tape wrapped around the line and then you will see the bracket .




Finished with new part installed.




Old line for reference.
 
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#34 ·
Yes, it was leaking, no noise, I believe they put the wrong hose on and it has air trapped in the line. I'm considering buying another hose, the correct one, and replacing it again. If so, I'll print this out and take it to the mechanic.
If you believe the problem is air trapped in the line, you do not need to remove the hose to purge the air.

The following procedure is excerpted from the Service Manual:




-njjoe
 
#35 ·
I used oem parts and fluid so I don''t know how an aftermarket part would perform on this repair. But I would go with njjoe and flush the fluid first and see if that fixes the problem. If not, then you have to find out what pressure line part they put in there and if there is damage with the PS pump. Good luck.
 
#36 ·
The instructions really don't explain how to change the fluid and will I see the bubbles in the reservoir where you pour it in? I'm a lady who is pretty good at fixing things with the proper instruction. Was trying to save some $$ & every time I do this I end up spending more. UGH! Also, can I get the correct fluid at Autozone?
 
#37 ·
ts-

1) Yes, you are to look in the plastic reservoir for evidence of foam/bubbles.

2) Yes, Autozone is a good place to source the power steering fluid.

-njjoe
 
#38 ·
I went to the auto parts store and they tried to sell me transmission fluid, if this is correct please advise because, I'm pretty sure the guy who replaced the line, replace the fluid with PS fluid not transmission fluid. If they used the wrong fluid could this cause more damage? It's been almost 3 months ago and the rubbing sound continues and recently I started to smell something that could be getting hot.
 
#40 ·
Duh Pilgrim! I'm just trying to get help. Yes, it says Nissan PSF. By the way you said that I guess I just don't get it. The mechanic put regular power steering fluid in the vehicle, but from reading this site, the Nissan PSF fluid is different. I want to change the fluid to see if that is what is causing the rubbing noise. When I tried to buy the new fluid, the auto store tried to sell me transmission fluid. I guess I'll go the dealer tomorrow and get my head taken off!
 
#49 ·
could you describe the sound a lil more? you say rubbing sound? but that wouldnt correlate at all with the power steering system...if instead you mean it is more of a whining sound, your power steering pump could be failing, and needs replacement. and if there was a problem after taking it to a shop, they are liable for anything done wrong or messed up when the car was in their possession, you should def take it back and make them fix it, why pay more money for something you didn't do
 
#41 ·
I don't understand why not let the original mechanic that replaced the pressure hose to fix the problem once and for all. Obviously his repair was not done right if you are getting noise after his repair. He should know this since he has to test drive it right after.
 
#42 ·
Sorry about the way that came off - I share a frustration with Totalskiier about proprietary fluids. Dealers charge 2x or 3x the going rate (or more) for stuff that you can buy in a Mobil 1 can...the challenge is in figuring out what's equivalent. I didn't realize he was looking for an equivalent.

But I do agree that the guy who added the fluid should either be able to document that what he added is the Nissan stuff, OR an equivalent that he can prove is equal.
 
#47 ·
I don't know how accurate that pix is for the part they are selling--they may just have posted 1 pix for 2 different products. They are also selling the 2 wd vesion. I would give them a call or email to make sure. Refer to the pix on page 1 and 2 for the awd pressure line sample. It has more bends on the hard tubing part.
 
#52 ·
How can I be certain that it is the High Pressure Line without removing it from the car? I have a leak, from the sounds of it, it is the High Pressure Line, but I want to be sure. I have an appointment at my Nissan dealer but they will charge me big $$s just to check it. If I can determine that it is the high pressure line, I will buy it online or at my local parts store (O'Reilly Master Pro P/S - Pressure Line Assembly Part # 80491)...if I can verify that this is really the right part. Thanks in advance.
 
#53 · (Edited)
I would avoid the dealer. They charge a minimum of $50 to just look at it. If it is leaking power steering fluid from the passenger side to middle of the car behind the engine block then it has to be the high pressure line. I would just replace it since this is a very common issue on the MO. I just replaced mine, took about 4 hours. I would order the nissan part over the aftermarket, you are probably only saving $20. I hope the new part is built better than the old part. I only had 60k on my first one.

The job was straight forward. The cowl tray is a pain but easy enough to take off. The hardest part for me was that banjo bolt. Taking off was easy it was putting it back on. With the 2 washers, and the groove it has to fit into, getting it threaded up was very tricky. Have patience. I had to rest the socket against the bolt and push the line into place with the other hand. After a dozen try's I finally got it.

I noticed the dust covers on my struts were completely disintegrated. What is it with this car? I have replaced my whole gas tank, the fuel sensors both sides, the drivers seat bracket, now the power steering line, and the drivers side sunvisor. I hate to see what is next. The lower control arms seems ok for now but I expect those to be next by other reports. No more Nissans for me. I love/hate my MO. Feels and looks like a great car but keeps coming apart. I have never owned a more poorly built car in my life. Didn't they do any long term road tests? Or did they fix the problems that came up? It doesn't look like it.

BTW I have an 06 Murano S 2WD with 60,000 miles.
 
#54 ·
Hey Brik,

Thanks for the post. I went ahead made the repair myself. Bought the new hose from the dealer...$150 for the new hose and crush gaskets. It took me 2-2.5 hours to do the work. It would have taken me 30-45 minutes less if I had read all the instructions about removing the cowling to get access to the top mount and if the banjo fitting didn't give me such a fit. But...overall...not a bad job.

Joe
 
#55 ·
Yeah I paid about $100 for the hose and the washers + gasket from an online dealer abcnissan in arizona. I save tax and get a better price than going local. It took me a while since I had no air tools and no lift. I just used the scissor jack from the spare kit and some jack stands. Removed the tire with the tire iron in the spare kit. My clearance was not the best but manageable. I also waited while the fluid drained from the hose to keep the mess down a bit.
 
#56 ·
I replaced hose yesterday. I bought genuine part off Ebay from Nissan out of Az. for $105 shipped. Installed in 1.5 hrs without any problems. Thanks Izzy for identifying part for me.
So far I have replaced motor mounts, struts, fixed rear hatch clatter and now power steering hose with the help from this forum..Thank you all
 
#57 ·
Just an extra bit of info:

Once the wipers' 14mm nuts are off there's no wiggling needed to remove the arms, just press downward on the arm's fat base with one hand and lift the arm off the spline with the other. Wiggling could strip the splines.

A 24mm 1/2" drive socket on the banjo bolt with a 3 foot extention resting ontop of the exhaust pipe makes the banjo bolt removal simple.

The "crush washers" are not crush washers, just flat copper ones, no need for replacement.

The bolt at the top of the line under the cowling is a 12mm on the rearward end of the intake manifold and not a 10mm. The 10mm holds the bracket to the line only, removing just the 10mm makes removal of the assembly tricky, whereas the 12mm makes it simple.

A plastic sandwich bag melts if used to catch p/s fluid. A piece of aluminum duct tape over the hole works like a charm.

The whole assembly will come out through the right front wheel well area, just turn the line assembly 180 degrees clockwise and pull it out.

Aftermarket line (local) $139 Dealer $209 (wholesale pricing that is)

This job takes 1.6 hours labor for a 2003-2004 Murano, in case you don't DIY and want to get it done for you elsewhere as per MOTOR Labor and Time Manual. If a shop is asking 3 to 4 hours, look for a more competent shop.

Bon Appetit!:29:
 
#60 ·
Okay folks....prime example why it's not good to post pictures from storage sites like photobucket. THEY EXPIRE EVENTUALLY! Check out the first post and all the pictures are GONE! Is there any way to resurrect them?
 
#63 ·
I need to do this asap as well. Starting to smell like burnt oil and im hearing a "whining" noise when the fluid gets low. If i fill it then turn the steeri g wheel a couple times, everything i just filled is gone. Puddle of PS fluid in my parkin spot too. 2003 AWD 120k
 
#64 ·
I just replaced my high pressure power steering hose on my 2007 MO, (front wheel drive, 76K miles). I originally got a quote from my local dealership for $515 ($200 part fee, $155 labor, plus shop fees and tax). Other garage quotes were similar. I like you was therefor going to take this repair on myself. I found the part on ebay for $110 being sold by a Nissan Dealership in AZ (
http://myworld.ebay.com/peoriaparts/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 ). This hose DOES NOT INCLUDE the sensor, which I didn't need anyway and adds approx. $100 to the part cost.

I called my local dealer back and asked them if they could likewsie order the hose without the sensor and much to my surprise they said "NO". They said they could only get the $200 hose with the sensor. I then called a local independent certified NISSAN service center in my area. They too said the part was $200; however, I told them about the NISSAN dealership in AZ being able to sell the part for $110 w/o the sensor. They checked into this, called me back, and said that they could likewise get the part for $110 (genuine NISSAN Part). Their labor was $145, so I ended-up having them get the part and do the work. Total repair bill was $255 plus tax!. I saved almost $300 in repair cost by forcing the local shops to quote the hose without the sensor.
 
#65 ·
I went ahead and purchased the line from the parts shop at the Nissan dealership. Cost about 180$ for the hose, the gasket, and the fluid. Took me about 3 hours with not the best tools and working environment. Glad it's fixed and glad my family is safer
 
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