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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 12
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I have an 04 Murano with 112k miles. I have had it almost a year and I believe it has had this noise since I bought it. If you accelerate smoothly there are no issues. If you punch it, you can hear a clunk in the transmission/drive train. I am not a mechanic, but to me it feels something like a loose universal joint or something like that. This car may not even have a u-joint but that is sort of what it feels like. My transmission is still covered, but the dealer charges $100 just to check it out. I know there are a lot of smart people roaming on here so I thought I would see what you guys think. Is this something that might be covered under the transmission warranty? If not I will not have it fixed at the dealer. I will take it to a local mechanic and save about 60% on the repair. Thanks in advance for any opinions.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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It could possibly be a CV joint, but they don't usually act that way unless they're extremely bad. I think it would be worth $100 to have a dealer check it, because you have a transmission warranty through 120K miles. NOW is the time to make sure you know what's going on.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jersey Shore (not THAT Jersey Shore, the real one)
Posts: 11,744
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Motor mount?
-njjoe
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2005 SL AWD, Platinum -OEM HID conversion & HID fogs -OEM iPod interface -Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R -Muth signal mirrors -Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness -Aluminum fuel tank shields |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 6,042
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I also think motor mount before a universal joint. Only AWD has universal joint on its drive line. A failed universal joint causes vibrations at speed. Constant velocity joints in axles will make noise while driving or turning. If you don't have either then it is probably not the joint. You can probably test the motor mount while you are stopped. With left foot on the brake, hit the gas pedal and listen for that noise. You should be able to isolate it.
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2004 SL AWD - Super Black - Leather Package (Café latte) - Tow Package - Floor Mats - Splash Guards - Cargo Area Protector - Rear Bumper Protector - Front Window Tint - Dawn Color Matched Body Side Molding – Day Time Running Lights - PAC-NIS1 Aux Audio input - Pressure Pro TPMS and Anti Theft Sensor Locks - 7" Xenarc VGA Touchscreen - Compaq EVO e-PC 2.0 GHz Pentium 4 Carputer with 120GB HD, DSATX PSU / Shutdown Controller, Road Runner Front End, iGuidance 3.0 Navigation, DVD player, Internet access, XM satellite radio, Deluo GPS receiver, Linksys WiFi Antenna, TERK XM antenna - Tweeter 22uF CAP mod - Magnetbra - Custom Backup Camera - Aries Polished Stainless Steel Sidestep (nerf) Bars - Euro-Tech Nudge Bar - Homemade Lower Grill Cover - Auxiliary Projection Fog Lamps - Aluminum Fuel Tank Shields - Wade Window Deflectors - Nissan Sunroof Deflector - Scosche UBRH Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 12
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Very good advice. I will do the brake test later today and see what I find. Thanks again to everyone for your help. Mine is the 2wd version. I have not noticed any noise at all while driving or turning. Actually the car is in very good shape for having that many miles.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 12
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Ok, when I hold the brake and hit the gas it makes the same clunk noise. Does that point to a broken motor mount? Seems like the linkage would still be trying to turn the wheels, but you guys know way more about it than I do.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 2,024
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When you push the gas with the car running and in gear while holding the brake (I assume it WAS in gear, right)? Then the motor torques over against the resistance of the drivetrain. This stresses motor mounts and if one has separated, it may allow the motor to shift and lift one side, then drop back into place. That can create a clunk.
The same can sometimes happen without the car being in gear, but it's usually not as easy to make the fault take place.
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2007 Murano 1983 280ZX Turbo 1994 BMW 325i |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 6,042
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If mounts have never been changed on your MO, with 112k miles it is doubtful your mechanic will find them to be solid...
__________________
2004 SL AWD - Super Black - Leather Package (Café latte) - Tow Package - Floor Mats - Splash Guards - Cargo Area Protector - Rear Bumper Protector - Front Window Tint - Dawn Color Matched Body Side Molding – Day Time Running Lights - PAC-NIS1 Aux Audio input - Pressure Pro TPMS and Anti Theft Sensor Locks - 7" Xenarc VGA Touchscreen - Compaq EVO e-PC 2.0 GHz Pentium 4 Carputer with 120GB HD, DSATX PSU / Shutdown Controller, Road Runner Front End, iGuidance 3.0 Navigation, DVD player, Internet access, XM satellite radio, Deluo GPS receiver, Linksys WiFi Antenna, TERK XM antenna - Tweeter 22uF CAP mod - Magnetbra - Custom Backup Camera - Aries Polished Stainless Steel Sidestep (nerf) Bars - Euro-Tech Nudge Bar - Homemade Lower Grill Cover - Auxiliary Projection Fog Lamps - Aluminum Fuel Tank Shields - Wade Window Deflectors - Nissan Sunroof Deflector - Scosche UBRH Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 8,199
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Great work Zeb regarding testing with the car stopped and engine on. This certainly sounds like a motor mount issue.
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2003 Midnight Blue SE AWD w/VDC Colgan Bra, Mobil One, JWT POP charger PAC aux input adapter, hardwired Escort Passport x50, KUDA mount for MP3 player, Porterfield R4S brake pads (now Akebono ProACT), ATE Superblue Yokohama Envigor (much improved over stock Goodyears) Lots of squeaks and rattles. |
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