Nissan Dealership says i got PROBLEMS.

[hookahh]

Hey all,

I went to the Nissan dealership to get a 27 point inspection yesterday and the mechanic told me my car is in a bad shape. Before i start, i just wanna say i dont trust these guys, they always try to rip me off, so i get my work done elsewhere. Will you guys tell me if these seem like the proper problems for my car?

Bought Brand new (2006 Murano AWD)
44K Miles

NEEDED REPAIRS:


"Transmission Service: Transmission oil level Low. (TRANSMISSION OIL FLUSH AND REFILL)
Front Struts Weak + Boots
R/S Tie Rod is playing
Front and Rear Brake Pads
Front and Rear rotors
Front Left and Right Lower Control Arms are broken
Front Valve Cover Gasket leaking
30,000 miles service"

How much do these things cost? Do they seem like the right repairs for a 44k Car? Anything else you experts recommend?
ALL COMMENTS ARE APPRECIATED. Thank you SO MUCH.

[steveinutah]

Hmmm. Front rotors & brake pads possibly. My mechanic told me that anymore they've made the pads very hard to get more life from them which has lead to warped or damaged rotors. Rear not likely, since the fronts take most of the load. They used to "turn" the rotors on a brake lathe if they just needed resorfscing.

Broken control arms sounds unlikely, but I've only had my MO for a short time, so no experience with them on the MO.

[njjoe]

I am one of those guys who believes once the factory warranty is no longer in effect there is no reason to visit the dealership. And every time I read a story like yours it just reinforces my position.

Could your 5-year-old, 44,000-mile MO have all the problems reported by your dealership? Sure, but I would definitely get a second opinion.

Out of curiosity, what did the dealership charge for the 27-point inspection?

-njjoe

[nafddur]

Originally Posted by hookahh

NEEDED REPAIRS:


"Transmission Service: Transmission oil level Low. (TRANSMISSION OIL FLUSH AND REFILL)
Front Struts Weak + Boots
R/S Tie Rod is playing
Front and Rear Brake Pads
Front and Rear rotors
Front Left and Right Lower Control Arms are broken
Front Valve Cover Gasket leaking
30,000 miles service"

As Joe posted, every one of these `needed repairs' is possible, especially since we don't know how hard you've been driving your car. But, unless you've been autocrossing your poor Mo, pulling a heavy trailer, mud bogging, or subjecting it to other severe driving conditions, IMHO every one of these items is bogus. However, this is ONLY my opinion based on experience with my SE Mo, bought new 10/04 and now with just over 95K miles.

There is NO Nissan transmission service at only 44K. If the CVT fluid level is low, it's likely because you have a seal leak. That's something a few Murano owners have experienced, and is clearly visible. Just pull the CVT dipstick and check the level.

Weak struts is possible, but this is hard to evaluate without riding in the car. With only 44K your struts will likely last you quite a bit longer. Only you can judge that based on the ride. Your strut boots probably do have a few tears (or worse, based on their age), but that's something you can clearly see. I know my boots have been torn for several years, but since the ride on my original struts is still fine, I'm not doing anything until I eventually will need to replace them. The factory struts on my 95 Maxima lasted me to 190K miles and almost 14 years. Then again, I only buy SE Nissans, and they have superior suspension systems than the other, cheaper models.

I had an outer tie rod replaced a few months ago for $85. But remember, that was at 95K miles. 44K seems early to me for that. Just jack your car up grab the front and rear of your tire and see if there is any play. If there is, either the outer or inner rod needs replacement.

I replaced my front and rear brake pads (for $50) 2 1/2 years ago at 65K, and they still had quite a bit of life left in them. Depending on how hard you've been driving, yours could very well be shot. My wife and I drive pretty conservatively, so I've rarely ever had to replace a single Nissan rotor - and definitely not at only 44K!

I would think your car would be totally undriveable if either control arm was broken.

It's also possible you have a leaking VC gasket. But based on my experience with several Nissan VQ engines over the past 25 years, I also say that is HIGHLY unlikely at your low mileage. Again, you should be able to either see or smell that and, of course, you will eventually be seeing oil loss over time if that is truly a problem. My Max developed a rear VC leak when it was about 15 years old (and had a ton of miles on it), but the leak was so slight I just lived with it until I finally, recently upgraded to a newer car.

I've heard of some dealers who say you need 30K, 60K, 90K, etc. services. But those are only dealer specific $$ makers, NOT Nissan requirements. Unless, of course, at those mileages you just happen to need normal maintenance - on our Mos only engine oil (certainly not any other drive train oils until over 90K) or filters. Oh yeah, at around 60K you might also need antifreeze and accessory belts (about $200 for both, even at a Nissan dealer).

Hope this helps, hook. Again, these are only guides and some are my opinions based on many years of experience with Nissans. It looks to me like you need to find another dealer service dept., or just a good repair shop that works on Nissans. Good luck. At only 44K, I'd consider your car still almost `new!'

[Pilgrim]

Get a second opinion...

Transmission Service: Transmission oil level Low. (TRANSMISSION OIL FLUSH AND REFILL): my practice with conventional automatic transmissions is to do a power flush every 30K miles. Not sure about the Murano.

Front Struts Weak + Boots: Unlikely at 44K miles, but if it needs them, the dealership will be the most expensive place to have the work done. Second opinion needed.

R/S Tie Rod is playing: have a front end shop check this. You can DIY or have an independent shop do it. Get a second opinion and compare prices.

Front and Rear Brake Pads: possible, but only if you drive in heavy traffic - get a second opinion. I'm replacing my rear pads today at 70K miles.

Front and Rear rotors: Just do the pads. You don't need rotors. This is something that the shop probably should recommend to cover their butts legally, but it's not needed unless the rotors have worn thinner than the minimum spec. Any other shop can check that.

Front Left and Right Lower Control Arms are broken: BROKEN??? W.T.H.?? I sincerely doubt this!!! It wouldn't be driveable if this had happened. Get another opinion.

Front Valve Cover Gasket leaking: quite possible. Not a critical service, but it's going to mess up the engine if you don't replace the gasket.

30,000 miles service: Yes, do this - it will help assure the long-term performance of the vehicle.

[hookahh]

Thanks for the responses guys. The guys at nissan almost had me convinced that my car was dead. I decided to change the brake pads Front/rear because its actually time, add some CVT Fluid because level is actually low. Im also considering changing the Outer tie rod since car vibrates a bit when going at faster speeds, and tilts to the left, but going to get a second opinion first.

You guys are awesome. Will keep you updated.

[Pilgrim]

Do have those control arms checked. "Broken" is a term people use too freely...to me, it means they have come apart and separated. They may be cracked - if you've been playing Dukes of Hazzard.

[JayS]

Originally Posted by hookahh

... and tilts to the left...

Anyone else read that one little bit and suddenly think maybe the dealership was being honest?

[Pilgrim]

Oh, there is surely some legitimate repair in there. But the way it was communicated to us, there are parts of it that don't sound right.

[hookahh]

got the second opinion. Control Arms are fine. Struts are fine. Transmission fluid just needs to be added not changed. Cover gasket should be fine too, will check again in a week. Brake pads need to be changed. Outer tie rod needs to be changed.

[hookahh]

Originally Posted by njjoe

I am one of those guys who believes once the factory warranty is no longer in effect there is no reason to visit the dealership. And every time I read a story like yours it just reinforces my position.

Could your 5-year-old, 44,000-mile MO have all the problems reported by your dealership? Sure, but I would definitely get a second opinion.

Out of curiosity, what did the dealership charge for the 27-point inspection?

-njjoe

Inspection was free

[hookahh]

Got quoted by a shop:

$250 (with labor) outer Tie Rods (left and right)
$245 (with labor) Brake Pads + Rotors (Front)
$245 (with labor) Brake Pads + Rotors (Rear)

[nafddur]

Originally Posted by hookahh

Got quoted by a shop:

$250 (with labor) outer Tie Rods (left and right)
$245 (with labor) Brake Pads + Rotors (Front)
$245 (with labor) Brake Pads + Rotors (Rear)

This still sounds high to me, though not outrageously high, especially if you can't do either of these jobs yourself. Shop around - you can likely do better. I find it hard to believe BOTH tie rod ends are bad (though it is possible) and that you need rotors at only 44K miles. Still, to make $$, some shops will automatically replace both tie rod ends even if only one is bad. And, again to make $$, some shops always replace rotors when they do the pads.

As I posted previously, I did the pads myself on all 4 wheels on my Mo a couple years ago (at 65K) for $52. And, since I couldn't loosen both the jam nut and the nut holding the tie rod end to the steering knuckle, I had that done by a local shop. I bought the tie rod end at Auto Zone for $46, and the shop charged me $40 to install it. And no realignment was needed. A realignment might be included in your $250 tie rod cost which, if it is, really is a decent price.

Too bad you're not near me, Hookah. I could help you save over $600! (assuming that your rotors aren't scored and that you have tie rod play on only one side, of course)

[hookahh]

Originally Posted by nafddur

This still sounds high to me, though not outrageously high, especially if you can't do either of these jobs yourself. Shop around - you can likely do better. I find it hard to believe BOTH tie rod ends are bad (though it is possible) and that you need rotors at only 44K miles. Still, to make $$, some shops will automatically replace both tie rod ends even if only one is bad. And, again to make $$, some shops always replace rotors when they do the pads.

As I posted previously, I did the pads myself on all 4 wheels on my Mo a couple years ago (at 65K) for $52. And, since I couldn't loosen both the jam nut and the nut holding the tie rod end to the steering knuckle, I had that done by a local shop. I bought the tie rod end at Auto Zone for $46, and the shop charged me $40 to install it. And no realignment was needed. A realignment might be included in your $250 tie rod cost which, if it is, really is a decent price.

Too bad you're not near me, Hookah. I could help you save over $600! (assuming that your rotors aren't scored and that you have tie rod play on only one side, of course)

Hey, so only the right side tie rod is bad, but they said i need to replace both "because thats how it works...you replace both not one." Aholes.
$250 does not include realignment.

Ill buy the Tie rod in autozone like you did. They should know what part i need hopefully?

[hookahh]

OOH Also "Your Rotors are shot. Your rotors are SHOT. Your rotors are shot." How? "You see the rust over here? and here? SHOT" ..ok

I hate car shops, havent been able to find one shop thats straight up HONEST. Which in the long run would make them more money because i would keep coming back to them..(NYC)