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Rear drivers side brake pad shot, passenger side OK

3K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  Pilgrim 
#1 ·
The rear pads were less than a year old so I was surprised when they started squealing. Turns out it was only the driver side so I changed the pads on that side last night so I could at least drive it a few days but how do I diagnose the real issue? I figure it's either the piston getting stuck in the bore (it was harder than usual to press it back in after changing the pads) or the caliper pins (they weren't 'stuck' but they didn't have much grease on them)

I've never put on a new caliper...it doesn't look that hard but I just want to be sure that's the issue before I forge ahead.
 
#2 ·
I think you're right on target with your analysis. The "harder than usual" bit is a little odd. Puts you in a gray area. I do think you have enough evidence to justify a caliper swap. I'd also take a close look at those pins and replace them if needed. I'm sure you will lube them as per the manual.

All you need to do is switch parts and bleed the brakes afterward. Make sure to replace the pads on both sides. And I wouldn't go to the dealer for the caliper - you'll pay a lot going that route.
 
#4 ·
I think you're right on target with your analysis. The "harder than usual" bit is a little odd. Puts you in a gray area. I do think you have enough evidence to justify a caliper swap. I'd also take a close look at those pins and replace them if needed. I'm sure you will lube them as per the manual.

All you need to do is switch parts and bleed the brakes afterward. Make sure to replace the pads on both sides. And I wouldn't go to the dealer for the caliper - you'll pay a lot going that route.
What makes that odd? Would you expect it to be much harder than 'harder than usual' if the piston was seized? Or did you mean something else? I had to use a wrench on my c-clamp to get enough leverage to turn it all the way in if that helps quantify just how much more than normal.

I don't see anything about lubing the caliper pins in the manual. Any advice there?

Finally, I helped my dad bleed brake lines about 100 years ago but have never done it on my own. I understand the concept but is there a step by step specific to the Murano anywhere?
 
#3 ·
If it was noticeably harder to push that caliper back in it's very likely the caliper is shot. If it was sliding fine on the pins it's even more likely. If it was having trouble sliding on the pins it might be worth just cleaning them up good and regreasing but the NAPA remans are only about $50. For that price I'd rather just do the job once and be done with it.
 
#5 ·
I've had caliper pistons lock up, but never get "harder." But the fact that it's hard to push back in is bound to indicate a problem. A wrench on a C-clamp is a lot of force - well done to note that and comment about it.

All those slider pins generally require some hi-temp grease to assure that they will allow the caliper to move. I haven't had to do this on my Murano, so I'll let others comment.

I can do a search for brake bleeding on the Murano...or you can.
 
#6 ·
I can and I will, I just thought since you brought it up you might have a few pointers.

The fact that you have never greased the slider pins makes me wonder if we're talking about the same thing. I thought it was standard procedure when changing brake pads (which I'm assuming you've done but maybe not) so maybe I'm confused. You clearly know more about this stuff than I do as I've learned a lot from your posts.
 
#7 ·
I have changed them, but when I did so on the Murano, I inspected the slider pins and they were still well greased. It has been a while since I did the job.
 
#8 ·
Have not done any further maintenance but the brakes seem to be working fine; No excess heat from the wheel and when I jack up the car I can spin both wheels freely. Had my wife apply the brakes, and then I can't turn the wheels. I'm back to thinking the slider pins were sticking and the extra lube has them working. Or maybe the caliper was seized up but now it's not so therefore it's an intermittent issue which will surely return. Was thinking I'd just keep an eye on it (perform said tests every weekend?)
 
#11 ·
I have been experiencing the same thing with my rear drivers side slider bolt lately. Actually, the top 14mm bolt was seized up about a month ago and i had to use a screw driver and hammer to knock it out. After cleaning it up and adding some grease, I reinstalled it and still had the same issue... I noticed that the slider was being forced out at this point, due to too much grease that I packed in there. I then went ahead and pulled out the rubber off of the slider bolt and packed it with grease. Now the slider bolt has been working fine and I don't have any issues in the last few weeks. It could your piston, but I say that you check out the sliders, as well.
 
#12 ·
I'll look at it this weekend.

I just remembered I left the cap off the master cylinder for about a week in the fall. Could enough water have been absorbed to be causing corossion in the flex hoses or somewhere else? Could changing the fluid alone help?
 
#13 ·
Brake fluid draws moisture, which can corrode caliper bores. I would say that you should replace your brake fluid right away, as leaving the cap off probably accelerated the process a bit...and if it hasn't been done for 3 years, you are overdue anyway.

"Shaking" is a little too general, but tires can get flat spots from sitting. Usually they disappear in the first few miles of driving at road speed.
 
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