really NEED help!!

[msyvette]

First i want to say THANKS for all the help with the info about maintenance and keeping the 2005 murano
i bought on 03-31-11 running. the right gas and the engine cleaner helped with the "dragging noise".

My new issue is i'm at the dealership.
$110 for full checkup as:

Check engine light is on.
VDC OFF button keeps coming on.
SLIP light keeps coming on.
Car has cut off 4 x this week alone while in motion.
There is no "shock absorbtion" when i go over bumps.
The steering wheel shakes over 45mph.
Grinding noise from the brakes.
Noise from the front tires when turning/parking.
The rubber cover slips on the shocks is worn and "stuck" in the cylinder line?
engine turn over is not as fast as it could be.
..................
aside from this i'm great!

Shop bill over $2k.
Any ideas on any of this.

Replace control arms.
replace shocks.
resurface drums.
clips from where the left inner tire panel has come off and the ones under the hood for the heat exhaust ("hose/tube" across the front of the engine)
tune-up?
...................
all this after they already did 2 alignments / front brakes/ 2 new tires --

any advice is appreciated. i really value this forum and all your comments. i have learned a lot. and dont be afraid to "say" something. i am very technical comprehensive. you dont have to break it down like i'm five. i'm not your average "girly girl".

Ms Yvette -- NC
next stop BBB and Crown dealership corporate gets a peice!

[zebelkhan]

None of the repairs address "ses" light on. What does the dealer say about that? what is the code? $2k seems high for the other stuff alone.

[turbizzy]

Not necessarily, front struts alone is about a $1,000 job with factory parts and alignment. Control arms run just over $300 each in parts alone minus labor.
And resurface drums? I think you mean rotors, if no parts involved, thats about a $200ish job plus $90ish for pads and/or more for parking brake shoes.

I really don't understand what it is you are asking about. All the stuff you mentioned sounds about right for a Murano with some miles on it. I don't really understand why the BBB needs to be contacted?

[msyvette]

thanks ya'll.
i'm pissed turbizzy that i bought the car and the brakes and 2 alignments and 2 new tires were done in the first 30 days of having the car. i had to take it to the shop on 3 separate occasions just to get these things done. i should not have had to. and the issue with the car was not fixed. this was april. in august i let the dealership do the oil change. they had the nerve to tell me my cvt fluid still needed to be changed and that my control arms were in dire need of replacement. i honestly think had the shop done a proper full inspection when they got this car traded in, i would not have this on me. but as much as i run around yes i need to be more responsible also.

and yes sorry i meant needing to get rotors turned. they did not mention brakes/pads as they did them already.
$165 just to resurface rotors...... i spent $110 just letting them look at the car and i have a coupon for service that i can use toward a service. so i intend to let them do that.

'bank 1 cam sensor' @ $275. is why the check engine light was on. it went off saturday night. but they did not mention why my car could be cutting off or why the VDC and SLIP light were coming on. all lights are off right now.

both front struts/insulators/bearings could all take care of the 'rough ride' @ $980.

my biggest issue is the control arms. i see where others spoke of doing this themself. is this something that can be done for less than $1050? i understand there is a right and left. does the whole are have to be done or does this 'bushing' that is mentioned come on its own?

I just want to make sure i'm not in over my head for no reason. If these things sound like they are right on time then i feel a little better.

thanks
ms yvette --nc

[nitely]

Your lower control arm bushings does not come off on its own. You need to replace the entire arm for the fix. But the ball joint can be repaired by itself.

Yes the LCA can be had for much less. You do not have to use oem which is fluid filled and seems to fail much sooner. I replaced both my left and right LCA last year and cost me only 200 shipped for both--ebay--with lifetime warranty. If you are not diy it, you are at the mercy of the shop. Do not go to the dealer for this. Call around and compare prices. You can even buy the part online and call around for a shop who will install it for your for less.

On the struts, kyb seems to be the favorite brand which is much cheaper than oem which you don't really need. But if you have done the repair already then...

Your first issues could have been addressed if you had the MO inspected properly at your expense prior to purchase. Relying on the seller/dealers BS full inspection is a big mistake. You have to be proactive on that one and make sure for yourself. Buying used cars are always a gamble.

Remember, you do not have to go to the dealer for repair/maintenance work unless its a warranty work. You will save money going to an independent shop. Always call around to get a better pricing. They vary alot. Good luck.

[Pilgrim]

I really think you need to separate the issues into "now" vs "soon" and work through them in a couple of steps.

Mechanical stuff is nothing special and I recommend an independent shop if you can find one recommended by friends. Also, buy parts from the internet or aftermarket, not dealer. I haven't done them, but according to reports control arms come as a unit, but don't buy the dealer parts.