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Winter preparations!

3K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Pilgrim 
#1 ·
Hello all!

So winter is coming - well not really, is it still fall here but temperatures are getting low and one must be ready. I have some questions about that, mainly about the coolant liquid.

As it is stated in the owners manual, it has to be green and it has to conform with the L250 specification. I have called local car supplies dealer and he told me, that he has "green stuff", it is rather cheap but he did not specify the L250 support, also worked at the *sorry* *Mazda* service told me that this is not an issue - if it is green it is OK. Now I ask - is that true? Because then I myself can go and buy that liquid and add it. Also there is question about the mixture...I do not know how to drain that liquid or if I even should - should I just add it to the max? How much should I buy and add? I am practically on min or rather below min...I must point out that in the summer I have added some liter or two liters of standard water from the pipe...have I made terrible mistake?

Another question is the motor oil and yes, we have debated this to teh death but I will make a quick one - in the OM it is suggested to use 5W-30 - but the sticker that says what oil has been used in the motor says 10W-40. Also he blend of oil is local choice, don't know what make it is but now I am trying to switch to MO suggested make nad specification. I am thinking this - sorry the page is in Slovenian language but the image of the oil is very clear: https://www.euroton.si/avtodeli/mobil-super-3000xe-5w30-5l-motorno-olje-p-216990.aspx any thoughts? it this OK?

Thank you in advance for help any any information!

best regards!
D
 
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#2 ·
Mobil-1 oil is a good oil. Is this full synthetic or a blend? I could not tell. Either way it is a good oil but I would use full synthetic if available.

On the coolant question, you should never use tap water in the radiator. The minerals from tab water can plug a radiator. Use distilled water instead.

I am not so sure about the color of the antifreeze. I also don't think all greens are same. I would look for an antifreeze that meets Nissan specs, no matter what color it is. Mix of water to antifreeze is usually 50/50.
 
#3 ·
I think that it is - if I look here it says "synthetic" and it is not a blend... here:Mobil Super 3000 XE 5W-30
other then that, I will try it out, will look up the accurate oil filter and try different viscosity...
EDIT: I have these two to chose from right now:
http://img.enaa.com/oddelki/mojAvto...je_mobil_1_esp_formula_5_1_5w30_IST035276.JPG
or
http://img.enaa.com/oddelki/mojAvto...lje_mobil_super3000_xe_5_1_5w30_IST040636.JPG
suggestion?

As for the antifreeze - I can not confirm the L250 conformity of that green, well dark green antifreeze - problem is also what to do now...should I drain all fluid completely? can I do that myself? I called up the local Nissan service and they have told me some big numbers for this procedure...any more thought on how to proceed?
 
#4 ·
There is a testing device you can buy at auto shops to see if the coolant is still good. You can take your car up there and they may test it for free. 50/50 is the basic mix for coolant. Using straight antifreeze will do more harm then good.

If your coolant is good but you want to be on the safer side you could drain the radiator and refill it with 50/50. Start the car and let it circulate. This is not considered a full coolant system flush but should still be enough for winter.
 
#6 ·
I will go for a test, also I can buy one for around 5 EUR...I will see the status but still, I am a bit concerned about this water...I will go and buy a liter of Antifreeze that meets specification and add it, then I can only hope that the regular water will be "perished" within :) I am not sure about that drain DIY concept...
 
#5 ·
Every year my Infiniti G35 TPMS goes off as the tires lose 5 lbs of air when the temp sinks.
Still waiting for the Murano to set off a warning. The Infiniti yelled at me when the temps hit the high 30s a week or two back.
 
#9 ·
OK for the oil I ordered MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA 5/1 5W30 - the green package...it should be fine right, I did not misfire? Also I imagine that I have to be careful with the oil filter, since this oil is much more thinner? Or that doesn't matter?

For the cooling fluid - I saw the DIY and it is quite a step...I am not that versed, I am thinking that I will add some original antifreeze if the machine says that I am not in bad zone with the temperature and will go for the complete change after winter...I was reading that it is not that bad to change the cooling fluid completely from the system and have it cleaned up...

Thank you for all your input, will keep you posted on the oil drain after change - will be interesting to compare the numbers from what I am having now...

RGD
 
#10 ·
Don't obsess over oil changes. Any oil that meets the manufacturer's specs will work. Filters are just filters - they're very simple devices, and they don't do anything except force oil through a porous filter medium. They work the same way they did 60 years ago.

Changing coolant is a highly neglected process, probably as neglected as changing brake fluid every 3-4 years. There's no time clock running on it, but when you run coolant past its intended service date, you increase the chance of corrosion in the cooling system, and the lubricants in the coolant for the water pump will wear out. I usually run late in doing it, but I get around to it.
 
#11 ·
I can't help it! :) I have had bad experience with it...am I checking oil level like every week...always filling up, even if just one deciliter :) OK now I will try this one, I can almost hear the differences in the engine and driving changes with different oil and different oil viscosity...and I will get std oil filter :) thank you for this info!

As for the coolant - I will try to make the change this year...it is not "free" but it is not THAT expensive...and I have the brake fluid changes twice...when I rotated the rear discs and brake pads they changed oil for the brakes all in all...
 
#12 ·
Any sound issues are in your head. Chill out. Until the oil is a quart low you don't need to do ANYthing.

Brake fluid is not oil, it's a hydraulic fluid that accumulates moisture over time. As it gathers water from the air, its boiling point is lowered and it's easier to boil the brake fluid under severe use. Boiling fluid doesn't brake well.

But that's only every 3-4 years, so you're good.
 
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