My First Brake Job - Nissan Murano

nighthawk · 01-20-2012, 05:28 PM

I'm changing the front disc pads. My 04 Mo has thin metal shims that clips to the disc pad. The caliper piston presses against this metal shim. I need to know where to put the anti squeel lube. Does it go between the pad and the metal shim, or both sides of the shim, or just in the area the caliper piston touches the metal shim. How about all the other places the pad touches?

jcman311 · 01-20-2012, 06:36 PM

You may hear otherwise as I have not looked at these parts but on other cars I've done brake jobs on you want to lube all contact points. As far as I know, you cant really over lube it... as long as you dont get it on the pad or rotor. In case you do, just a quick clean with brake clean will clean the parts.

I would definitely put some on both sides of the shim as it contacts metal on both sides. Slide points of the pad as well gets some (if the pads silde along the caliper or mount anywhere)

nighthawk · 01-20-2012, 07:24 PM

Thanks for the advice jcman. I'll give it a try in the morning.

darkredmurano · 01-20-2012, 07:45 PM

i remember my first...those good ol' high school days...haha

but i digress, yes everything that isn't a rotor or friction material, you have the option of putting it on, but at a bare minimum, the backs of the pads (if it has shims, just put the shim on the back and cover the whole back of the pad, shim and all) and the slide pins

nighthawk · 01-20-2012, 07:57 PM

I have a tube of lubricant called "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube". Will I be able to use it to lube the pins and slides and also use it for anti squeel?

darkredmurano · 01-20-2012, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nighthawk

I have a tube of lubricant called "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube". Will I be able to use it to lube the pins and slides and also use it for anti squeel?

yes, it acts as a lube on the slide pins and it helps the pads stay "stuck" to the piston, and caliper, so when you release your brakes the pads do not stay in contact with the rotor

also they make a spray that is magical, a lot easier to use, less messy and hella sticky for the backs of the pads, i cant remember what the name is, but its right next to the brake lube stuff

nighthawk · 01-21-2012, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkredmurano

yes, it acts as a lube on the slide pins and it helps the pads stay "stuck" to the piston, and caliper, so when you release your brakes the pads do not stay in contact with the rotor

also they make a spray that is magical, a lot easier to use, less messy and hella sticky for the backs of the pads, i cant remember what the name is, but its right next to the brake lube stuff

Thanks. I feel better about that product now. Time to get my hands dirty.

nafddur · 01-21-2012, 10:44 AM

All of the posts here about lubing the shims, pad backs, slide pins, etc. (ie all contact points) are spot on! I did the front and rear pads on my 04 SE 2 1/2 years ago at 65K. Having done all of the brake work on every car I've owned for the past 40+ years, I'm happy to say that the Mo was the easiest of any car I've ever owned to work on. Replacing the pads on all 4 wheels (even though the OEM pads still had a fair amount of life left in them) took about 1 1/2 hours, and cost me $52. The next time, it should take me closer to an hour. Having to use a box wrench on one of the rear caliper bolts because one of the suspension members precluded use of a socket, was the trickiest part of the whole job.

My brakes have worked perfectly since putting the (relatively inexpensive) Duralast organic pads on and, using CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease, I've had nary a peep from the brakes.

You should have no problem, nighthawk. Let us know how the job turns out for you.

nighthawk · 01-22-2012, 11:49 AM

I had great success with the brake job. Thanks to all that posted with good info. Now it looks like I have a CV joint starting to make noise on the drivers side. It makes a hi pitched clicking noise. That's what I get for turning the radio off and rolling down the windows during my test ride for the brakes. The car only has 60K miles. I thought they lasted longer. No grease splatter just noise. Is there a DIY thread for CV replacement?

darkredmurano · 01-22-2012, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nighthawk

I had great success with the brake job. Thanks to all that posted with good info. Now it looks like I have a CV joint starting to make noise on the drivers side. It makes a hi pitched clicking noise. That's what I get for turning the radio off and rolling down the windows during my test ride for the brakes. The car only has 60K miles. I thought they lasted longer. No grease splatter just noise. Is there a DIY thread for CV replacement?

are you sure you don't have a wheel bearing issue? sounds can be deceiving...does it happen only in turns? and if it does which direction are you turning?

nafddur · 01-22-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nighthawk

it looks like I have a CV joint starting to make noise on the drivers side. It makes a hi pitched clicking noise. That's what I get for turning the radio off and rolling down the windows during my test ride for the brakes. The car only has 60K miles. I thought they lasted longer?

They DO last longer - if you make sure the boots are replaced if (when) they wear through or get torn. The 95 Maxima that I just traded in and owned for 17 years, had 204K on the original CV joints. But many years ago, when I was getting an exhaust system installed, a torn CV joint boot was discovered. Fortunately, I found it before any damage was done to the joint itself, and I ever had to replace it.

Even a tiny amount of dirt or road grime will destroy a CV joint.

nighthawk · 01-22-2012, 02:42 PM

I'm pretty sure it's the CV. I could feel the clicking with my hand on the boot with the wheel turned left and rocking the car front to back. Any threads on this site on how to replace the joint or axel?

darkredmurano · 01-22-2012, 03:00 PM

this is NOT a murano but it will give you the idea, CV half shafts are NOT hard at all to remove and install, can be done as long as you have the socket big enough to remove the hub nut, usually you can rent them from your local autoparts store, along with the breaker bar to get enough leverage

How To Replace a Front Wheel Drive Axle - YouTube

nighthawk · 01-22-2012, 03:59 PM

Thanks for the video.

01-20-2012, 05:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	My First Brake Job I'm changing the front disc pads. My 04 Mo has thin metal shims that clips to the disc pad. The caliper piston presses against this metal shim. I need to know where to put the anti squeel lube. Does it go between the pad and the metal shim, or both sides of the shim, or just in the area the caliper piston touches the metal shim. How about all the other places the pad touches?

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01-20-2012, 07:24 PM	#3 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	Thanks for the advice jcman. I'll give it a try in the morning.

01-20-2012, 07:45 PM	#4 (permalink)
darkredmurano Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 31	i remember my first...those good ol' high school days...haha but i digress, yes everything that isn't a rotor or friction material, you have the option of putting it on, but at a bare minimum, the backs of the pads (if it has shims, just put the shim on the back and cover the whole back of the pad, shim and all) and the slide pins

01-20-2012, 07:57 PM	#5 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	I have a tube of lubricant called "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube". Will I be able to use it to lube the pins and slides and also use it for anti squeel?

01-21-2012, 10:44 AM	#8 (permalink)
nafddur Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: MA Posts: 1,547	All of the posts here about lubing the shims, pad backs, slide pins, etc. (ie all contact points) are spot on! I did the front and rear pads on my 04 SE 2 1/2 years ago at 65K. Having done all of the brake work on every car I've owned for the past 40+ years, I'm happy to say that the Mo was the easiest of any car I've ever owned to work on. Replacing the pads on all 4 wheels (even though the OEM pads still had a fair amount of life left in them) took about 1 1/2 hours, and cost me $52. The next time, it should take me closer to an hour. Having to use a box wrench on one of the rear caliper bolts because one of the suspension members precluded use of a socket, was the trickiest part of the whole job. My brakes have worked perfectly since putting the (relatively inexpensive) Duralast organic pads on and, using CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease, I've had nary a peep from the brakes. You should have no problem, nighthawk. Let us know how the job turns out for you.

01-22-2012, 11:49 AM	#9 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	I had great success with the brake job. Thanks to all that posted with good info. Now it looks like I have a CV joint starting to make noise on the drivers side. It makes a hi pitched clicking noise. That's what I get for turning the radio off and rolling down the windows during my test ride for the brakes. The car only has 60K miles. I thought they lasted longer. No grease splatter just noise. Is there a DIY thread for CV replacement?

01-22-2012, 02:42 PM	#12 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	I'm pretty sure it's the CV. I could feel the clicking with my hand on the boot with the wheel turned left and rocking the car front to back. Any threads on this site on how to replace the joint or axel?

01-22-2012, 03:59 PM	#14 (permalink)
nighthawk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 24	Thanks for the video.

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