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Moving far...need suggestions about towing.

7K views 39 replies 7 participants last post by  srT4URBO 
#1 ·
So, I will be moving from Chicago to California in the beginning of June and have a little bit of a dilemma with moving. The car is an '04 SE AWD with all the bells and whistles, but it also has a little bit of mileage...167k at the moment to be exact. Other than regular maintenance and common problems in the past, the car has not been giving me any major issues. I have been planning on keeping the car at least another year and the move was expected but not guaranteed until recently.

Anyways, we do not have much to move to be honest. Pretty much all of the furniture will be purchased in Cali, once there. The plan was to drive the car 1,700 miles, but a little bit will need to be towed with us (TV, clothes, 3 bicycles, childs bed and a few other misc things). I DO NOT want to spend roughly $2,000 on a Uhaul box truck, as we do not have enough to even throw into it. So, I have looked into possibly getting a Uhaul trailer (4' x 8') which should be enough for our needs...roughly $400 for trailer plus $135+ for tow hitch, which I dont currently have but would purchase.

Here is my main concern...THE CVT!...Even though the car does have a ton of miles, it has been holding up well and the CVT was replaced at 96K miles through Nissan, without any issues since. I understand that our cars do not want to see over 3,000 lbs while towing and I do not believe this would be exceeded, but not all of the driving would be on a flat surface (would have to get through Colorado with the trailer). I prefer not to ship everything over there via UPS, like the bikes for example, the other belongings we do not mind.

Any faith out there in the vehicle? I am mainly concerned about the CVT and the the long distance towing, even though its a small trailer. I have driven long distances in the past, but never did any towing. I understand that I have a ton of miles but I do maintain my car pretty well and don't have a issues with it. I plan on keeping the car a bit longer but would like to get situated in Cali first. Our other vehicle will be donated to our family member, along with a ton of other stuff, which is why we have such a small move. We have weighed out most of our options, but any other ideas would work as well. THANKS!
 
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#3 ·
There is NO ISSUE with your CVT. None. It's rated to pull much more than you plan to. Just don't try to go 90 MPH up steep hills. I've towed 700+ miles in a day with a U-Haul 16-footer weighing close to 1.5 tons and an 07 Murano.

My recommendation is to get a double-axle trailer, as they pull better than the smaller ones and have nicely functional trailer brakes actuated by movement of the tongue as you begin to brake. Use the extra space for all the light but space-consuming stuff that will spring out at you from long-forgotten corners.

Read the threads here for info on trailer towing - you have a total of 3500 pounds including the load inside the Murano. Make sure to load the tongue heavier then the tail of the trailer - otherwise it will not tow safely and fishtail when you brake.
 
#4 ·
Wow great info thanks. So you're saying that the CVT should not be an issue even though they tend to go quite often? I will look for the double axle trailers, if possible. Otherwise, if I have to stick with this one, I'll make sure to load up heavy in the front of it, as you mentioned. Also, I forgot but just realized that I would have to get the entire tow package set, as my '04 would need to be wired up for the brakes/signals on the trailer. Any idea if this is a pain to wire up? I don't mind wiring stuff up and most of it looks plug and play, but I hope that it is easier thAn I'm thinking it to be.

*Also, CVT was replaced by Nissan in 2011. Not sure if that makes any difference but I thought I heard someone mention that even the factory replacements should be slightly better than the older original 04's due to their components in the later years made?*
 
#7 ·
Wow great info thanks. So you're saying that the CVT should not be an issue even though they tend to go quite often? I will look for the double axle trailers, if possible. Otherwise, if I have to stick with this one, I'll make sure to load up heavy in the front of it, as you mentioned. Also, I forgot but just realized that I would have to get the entire tow package set, as my '04 would need to be wired up for the brakes/signals on the trailer. Any idea if this is a pain to wire up? I don't mind wiring stuff up and most of it looks plug and play, but I hope that it is easier than I'm thinking it to be.

Note: your Murano has the tungsten lamps, my 07 has the LED taillights. I think the LEDs are more problematic with aftermarket units, but don't buy trouble - get the Nissan harness.

*Also, CVT was replaced by Nissan in 2011. Not sure if that makes any difference but I thought I heard someone mention that even the factory replacements should be slightly better than the older original 04's due to their components in the later years made?*
The only way to go on towing wiring is to get the Nissan OEM wiring harness. It plugs into the interior harness in the spare tire well and there's even a rubber plug on the wiring which inserts into the floor and replaces the plain plug in the same spot. People have had all kinds of problems with aftermarket wiring units - **get the OEM** version and it's "plug and play"...NOT difficult at all. Just keep it away from the exhaust because it comes through the floor in the area above the exhaust. Cable ties are your friends.

A newer CVT may indeed be stouter, but who knows?

"Heavy" is a relative term. You don't need to put all the weight up front and drag the rear end of the Murano down, but the tongue should be heavy enough that it takes at least two people to lift it.

And don't forget to secure the trailer chains to the hitch with a stout padlock or two. The smart thing thieves do now is steal the whole trailer while it's parked overnight.
 
#6 ·
Im confused... Did you do any towing or just drive long distance? I have driven long distance plenty of times.. First trans I made it to Florida and back, without any issues. Once I replaced the trans in 2011 (after the first one blew up on me), I have driven to Colorado and back, also without any issues. I just never did any towing with it.
 
#12 ·
Is this actually going to be cost effective to do what you are proposing? You are going to have to purchase the hitch and wiring harness, and have it installed, and I'd want it done professionally so I knew it was right. Then you will be renting a trailer and trying to drive the thing 1700 miles with a Murano that is 11 years old and has 167,000 miles. That would worry me, and my main concern wouldn't just be the CVT, which is actually relatively new. It would be the entire 11 year old car.

And now you have a trailer hitch you paid for and may never use again. There has got to be a better solution to this move than what you are proposing.
 
#14 ·
Trust me, I have thought this through but would really like to avoid purchasing a new car here in Chicago just for the trip there. I prefer to buy something once out there..(a California condition car).

You are very right, the car does have high mileage and is old now but I know the car and maintain it myself...as best as possible. Sure, anything can go wrong but that could happen at any second. I have just though about the CVT, more only as I do not trust them much, to be honest. I see that people have faith in them but I had a bad experience with my first one.

The hitch and wiring I have found would run me a little over $200... + $400 for the rented trailer. I will be doing the install myself, as I consider myself to be mechanically inclined and do almost all of the work on my own. So yes, it is the most cost effective thing in my opinion, as long as the car gets there in one piece...of coarse. Obviously this is a pretty big dilemma for me, which is why I'm posting this thread and focused more on the CVT originally, but I do understand that everything else does require full attention.

Overall I cant complain. I drive far to and from work daily and dont have much to complain about in the past, other than your regular maintenance and the one bad experience with the CVT shutting down on me in 2011. It's all a bit of a risk but I am very aware of that.
 
#13 ·
I believe the hitch is under $130 and takes only a couple of hours to install. Having done one, I can attest that there are not many bolts involved...and you really can't get bolts in the wrong places. Just torque them to thoroughly tighten them. Easy.

It has been a couple of years, but it seems to me that the wiring harness was around $100 or a bit more, and was not difficult to install either.
 
#17 ·
Which ball mount is everyone using? Since I am not looking to pull more than 1,500 lbs, would this ball mount work?... Also seen it at Loews. My other questions would be if the 2" drop would work with a Uhaul trailer or would flipping it to the rise side be the better option for the Murano. Appreciate all the help :29:

Here is the link:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Towpower-2-Drop-Starter-Kit/16349666
 
#18 ·
Hi there, I did install tow hitch + wiring on my 06, bought aftermarket from etrailer.com, and was pretty straight forward with no an issue just for some rust in the holes where the hitch is bolted to the chassis, so get a wire brush and clean off any rust before installation for an easier job. As for the 2" drop it depends on the trailer height cos for a proper towing trailer must be horizontal to floor but I think 2" will be just fine for you.


And as for weight distribution to be more precise the tongue weight is 10% of the full loaded trailer and a maximum of 350 lbs. And a 2" ball is the most common.


Hope this help.
 
#19 ·
Yes great help thank you! I got the hitch in the garage, the oem harness is on the way in the mail and just bought a wire brush yesterday. Got a bit of rust down there so I'll be soaking everything in a ton of PB blaster before install. Yes the ball mount is a 2" drop and the ball is also 2". I would figure that this would be a good size? If anyone has any other experience or also agrees that this would work, please let me know. Any other suggestions also work. Oh and max load in trailer should be 350lbs at the tongue itself?
 
#20 ·
Remember that if the 2" drop moves the ball in the wrong direction, you can flip the insert over and turn it into a 2" life. Or change inserts.

IIRC, mine was a 2" drop and it worked perfectly. Make sure the ball you have has a threaded end that reasonably matches the diameter of the hole in the insert. You don't want a sloppy fit.
 
#21 ·
Yes, that is what I was talking about pretty much. The 2'' drop flipped, is actually only a 3/4'' of a rise, due to the way that the mount is welded. The ball that comes with this mount in the link, has the ball mounted on the 2'' drop side and is said to be torqued to spec for the specific mount/ball. If this works, as you said you have also used a 2'' drop, I wouldn't really need to touch anything else but install the piece and throw the trailer on it. I have learned a bit from the research I have done so far, as I have never really had a need to pull a trailer for my own needs. I am also going to stop by Uhaul possibly this week and check out exactly what they have to offer as far as the trailers go.
 
#22 ·
Cool. If the ball comes on the hitch insert, it should be great.

I'd double-check the tightness of the nut that holds the ball on, but I do have a two-foot-long Crescent wrench that is capable of a great deal of tightening force, especially when I install the hitch and brace both feet against it to pull on the wrench. I never looked for a torque spec on the ball, but I know it was more than adequately tight!
 
#23 ·
Most of what you asked was covered, so I'll just reassure you that the 2004 Murano can handle the towing you're contemplating. Here's a picture of what I usually tow - everything from short trips (20 miles) to a long haul several states over (450 miles), including some east coast mountain passes.



The boat and trailer package come in just under 3,000 pounds total. My 04 Mo has also towed the family's 19' Deck Boat at a package weight of close to 3,500 pounds. Admittedly, not nearly as far (only 180 miles in a day!). The car has over 130K miles with the original CVT and no needed CVT fluid change. With some luck (knock wood), I'm planning to see 200K (including more towing!).
 
#28 ·
Finally got the tow hitch on!! Car is a bit rusted under, so I had the re-tap the threads...but its on, secured and torqued to spec. What size ball w/ mount are you using? I am looking into getting a 2'' ball but I am not sure that I will need as far as the rise or drop goes...? I was looking into getting the mount which has the 3/4'' rise and place the ball on that end. I believe that any drop from the stock hitch would be too low for a trailer. Any ideas? What are you running for example?
 
#24 ·
Thanks guys this is some good info. I am trying to set up not only the trailer portion for the pull but also the other maintenance to make sure that the car handles it. Like I've mentioned, my CVT was replaced about 75K miles ago and I just checked the fluid, everything still looks like new and looks level. I do wonder if adding another half quart would help me in any way when towing, due to the potential high temps during summer hours and pulling through the mountains of Colorado. I am not looking to add and better or additional coolers but I'm sure that wouldn't hurt.

Once I get the conical toothed washers in the mail later this week, I will be attempting to install the hitch. So far, I just sprayed everything down to help the stuff penetrate through the rust. I'll use the wire brush the day of the install anyways.
 
#26 ·
AMEN!!! More is NOT better. Adding oil will not improve cooling, just potentially mess up your transmission. DO NOT do it.

And engine oil doesn't require "topping off" either, if that means exceeding the full mark. It can raise the level of the oil to where it contacts the crankshaft, frothing the oil and adding air to the oil, which can result in engine damage. (A half-quart overfill of engine oil isn't going to cause this, but the principle is that enough is enough, and more is not better.)
 
#27 ·
Yes the engine oil I was familiar with and wasn't sure about a cvt....well unless adding just a 1/4 quart would help I thought...but I see that it is not recommended obviously. I just don't want to go too low, or too hot while towing. I see that people here tow a bit and heavier stuff than I'm planning, so I don't think I should worry as much as I have at first.

Towing isn't THAT big a deal. If the vehicle is in good shape and you pay attention while towing, it's just not a big deal. You've done your homework, so don't sweat over it.

When i towed the trailer to move my daughter 1000 miles, I checked the tires and the engine oil, topped off the windshield washers, then hooked up the trailer, loaded it and drove off.
 
#29 ·
I believe a 2" ball is standard for the trailers you will tow. I used one of the inserts that had just enough drop that the top of the ball was roughly even with the top of the hitch insert.
 
#30 ·
I have the Nissan OEM hitch and it came standard with the two inch drop draw bar with the two inch ball. Generally speaking, a 2" ball is standard for most light Class III applications (300 lb. tongue weight/3,500 lb. tow weight limit). A 1 7/8" ball is typical for really light loads (i.e., Class II at 200 lbs. tongue weight/2,000 tow weight limit). I have a set up using the smaller ball for a utility trailer. Something like this: Carry-On Trailer® Wood Floor Utility Trailer, 5 ft. x 8 ft., 2,000 GVWR - Tractor Supply Co.. Ball size is pretty much dictated by the trailer you're hauling. As far as drop, standard 2" should do fine on the Murano. After hauling a utility trailer and two different boats, I can tell you the 2" standard insert worked for me. For the boats, I have the ball mounted so that its lower on the bar. For the utility trailer, I flip it and the bar actually holds the 1 7/8" ball higher. Either way, find the set up that causes the trailer to sit nearly level or slightly lower.
 
#32 ·
Thanks guys for the feedback. I only asked this because I stopped by a local dealer who is also authorized with U-haul rentals and checked out one of the trailers. I showed the guy where my current hitch will sit and he mentioned that I would probably have it sitting too low with a 2'' drop. What I might actually do is just buy the ball/mount and throw it on the hitch, then stop by an actual U-haul location and have them throw the trailer on the ball to see if they recommend me flipping the mount and ball around. I appreciate all of you help and thought that the 2'' drop was fine, until I was told otherwise...but then again, I did not have the ball mounted on the hitch yet. I'll go and grab the Reese ball and mount just as I have stated before and go from there.
 
#33 ·
Two inch drop (or flipped for rise) will be enough for standard utility trailers. Flip it as a rise and you'll be fine. You want the trailer level or the nose slightly down to ensure appropriate weight on the tongue. Remember that balance of the load plays a critical function and that you want it roughly 60/40 front/back weight loading. Bias the weight towards the front of the trailer in front of the trailer axle. Too much weight in the back vs. front will cause the trailer to fishtail and buck - very dangerous even with lighter tow loads! More weight in front is generally better. Make sure the ball size is correct for the application as well. For an open trailer like I posted previously, 1 7/8" is appropriate. An enclosed trailer or heavier duty may require the 2" ball. All depends on the trailer. Any load going 3,000 pounds or higher (likely not your case) may require trailer brakes too.

After your set up is complete, tow it on a short test trip lightly loaded. Notice if there are any issues with the Murano's handling. Practice braking and turns remembering you need more clearance that without the trailer. Make sure all the lights work (you'll need a second person there) - running lights, brakes, turn signals, hazards. Finally, invest in a spare trailer tire and practice a tire swap making sure you have all the tools needed (i.e., make sure the Murano's jack set up will work for the trailer). Remember its always easy to check and fix these things on a sunny weekend at home versus on the road while you're traveling fully loaded!

Best of luck!
 
#36 ·
I think JimC is right on, with one exception: if you're renting a U-Haul, don't spend money on a spare tire. They'll come and replace a bad tire if you have a failure. It has happened to me. Yes, it took a couple of hours to get someone there with a replacement, but to me that's not worth spending $100 or more on a tire/wheel that you have no use for after the trip.

If you buy a trailer, by all means get a good spare. Renting? Not needed.
 
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