squeel near crank - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 08-30-2012, 11:20 AM
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squeel near crank

On an 03 Murano with just shy of 200k. It begin to make a noise.
The noise is only present when the car has set for several hours, and its only present when above 1500-2000 rpm. It goes away after the vehicle has been driven for about 10 minutes.
I have removed both serpentine belts and its still present. It seems to be coming from the crank balancer. Do those go bad? Usually in the past when i have seen a harmonic balancer go bad, its wobbley.
thanks
matt
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#2 Old 08-30-2012, 12:14 PM
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Boy this is a new one. I'm drawing a blank. Someone else will have to chime in here!

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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#3 Old 08-30-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 4montecarlo View Post
On an 03 Murano with just shy of 200k. It begin to make a noise.
The noise is only present when the car has set for several hours, and its only present when above 1500-2000 rpm. It goes away after the vehicle has been driven for about 10 minutes.
I have removed both serpentine belts and its still present. It seems to be coming from the crank balancer. Do those go bad? Usually in the past when i have seen a harmonic balancer go bad, its wobbley.
thanks
matt
You mean you took off the belts and ran the engine? That is, the crank pulley was the only rotating mass? If so, it has to be the crank pulley assembly. If it goes away, I wouldn't get too excited on a 200K mile car. If you get any big failure, (ie expensive), one would question whether it's worth the cost.

Please let us know what you find!
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#4 Old 08-31-2012, 05:02 PM
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I found a thread that said to change the oil, its a filter problem.
So last night i swapped out the STP filter for a WIX. no difference, so changed the oil too, and it didnt help any.

TopasM3 - yes i started/drove the car without either belt with the balancer being the only spinning mass. So the noise, i agree, has to be coming from it. Or internal to the engine.

thanks
matt
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#5 Old 09-06-2012, 05:02 PM
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is the consensus is it prob an internal engine issue?

i havent done any more work on it, its just sitting. I know shops around here can not rebuild, they just want to put a junkyard motor in, but i would like to make sure its motor before i go that route.

is there something else i should be looking at?

thanks
matt
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#6 Old 09-06-2012, 08:05 PM
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I suggest getting an auto stethoscope ($10)at a parts store and using it to see if you can localize the sound.

I definitely would not tear into the motor until I had a diagnosis of the noise.

Almost anything can happen, but I can't imagine how a balancer can squeal by itself. I suspect the noise is coming from elsewhere in the motor and just appearing to come from that area...maybe by sound bouncing off the engine compartment. Perhaps it's under the timing cover - or maybe inside one of the valve covers.

That's why using the stethoscope might help. Squeals can be hard to hear through them because of the high frequency - they're better for clattering and impact sounds - but it's well worth a try. Just take great care not to get tangled up in any moving parts!

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#7 Old 09-06-2012, 08:13 PM
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Had this on an 06 a while back. Oil pump. Which is inside the pan, driven off the crank right behind the pulley. Extended service plan paid for a new (junkyard) motor.

Other possibilities are the Water pump (next to the alternator, but behind the timing cover), and the timing chain and tensioners. Thorough stethoscope work will get you in the ball park, but you wont know for sure till you get the timing cover off.
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#8 Old 09-07-2012, 12:24 PM
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I dont think its water pump, as the car is not overheating.
i would believe oil pump, i have no way to check pressures.
if the oil pump is the problem, is it worth just fixing the oil pump? or is the motor prob ruined now?

I also have a video on my phone that shows the sound if that helps. How could i upoad it?'
thanks
matt
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#9 Old 09-07-2012, 12:58 PM
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If you have oil pressure there is no reason to think there is any damage. An oil pump has only one function: pump oil. As long as oil is being pumped there is not an immediate problem. I haven't pulled the oil pan on one of these but if the pump is accessible through the pan opening it shouldn't be a difficult repair. However, I have never heard a squeal from an oil pump - think about it - it's the best lubricated part in the car.

You need to spend more time on the diagnosis and less worrying about a motor rebuild. Chances you need a rebuild are VERY low. You need to spend some money on getting a good diagnosis.

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#10 Old 09-07-2012, 11:02 PM
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The VQ35 is pretty sensitive to pressure issues. P0011 and p0021 set very easily just for low oil level because of the effect that has on pressure. So if that hasnt been seen, the rest of the motor should be fine.

And the Oil pump is not the best lubricated part of the engine. It only gets UN-filtered oil. They can and do fail and make noise. Id rather have a noisy one than one that just up and dies though.

If the OP has taken the belts off, and narrowed it down to something in the the timing case, the engine needs to come apart. if its something minor with chain/guide wear it'll be obvious. the Water pump can be spun by hand at this time, you'll feel the roughness in the bearing, or you can spin it with a drill.

I had a Murano in the shop once that snapped a cam. B2 Exhaust, right between the lobes for #2. Not a single mark on anything as to why. truck had maybe 12k miles on it. Outside of racing ive only seen 2 other cams snap, both high-mileage and abused domestics. So nothing is impossible.

As far as rebuilds, we can do them, but they arent cost effective in many cases. Depends on how bad the damage is. I'm not fond of cam bearings that arent replaceable inserts. But again, I dont see this as a concern in this case.

It's going to be a major repair. Nissan is not nice about the pump placement. The pan has to come off, along with the timing cover. Labor time is probably 15+ hours, Warranty is 12.7 AWD/11.3 2wd. Customer pay times are usually 1.5 times warranty, but not always.
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#11 Old 09-08-2012, 12:07 PM
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KtG, sounds like you have an excellent read on this - nice to hear from someone with direct experience on this problem, which IME is rather unusual.

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#12 Old 09-08-2012, 05:19 PM
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KtG, sounds like you have an excellent read on this - nice to hear from someone with direct experience on this problem, which IME is rather unusual.
Its a rare failure, but it happens. Between the Alt/Max/Quest and VQ40 secondary tensioner issue, and the '09 VQ35 Headgasket issue ive spent a lot of time inside these engines. The only thing I havent done to one is replace part of the rotating assembly. At that point a new short block or junkyard motor is more cost effective. Which bums me out. I love building engines.

With any luck, its a chain/guide issue on this car, not the pump. Just for the cost factor. Fraction of the cost to replace the chain and guides, as that is about 6 hours of work. Especially on a 200k mile truck. Dont have to remove cats or even the y-pipe to get the front cover off, so no fighting rusted parts.

SCOPE Senior Specialist, DFRT and EV. ASE Master Technician.
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#13 Old 11-22-2012, 02:06 PM
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I had a squeel on the front passenger side of the motor and I brought it in to one of the reliable shops and they replaced belts and washed the dirt away from around the pulleys and the squeeling stopped. We drive a lot of gravel and some days when it rains some parts turn to mud that splashes up under the engine. Does anyone know how to make a guard so that mud doesnt land on the pulleys? Thanks
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