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2006 Murano spark plug change

56K views 37 replies 16 participants last post by  Carguy75 
#1 ·
Today I changed the spark plugs in my wife's 2006 Murano. It was time consuming,but worth doing myself instead of paying the Nissan service department 500+ dollars to do it. Here are the pics and some directions on how to do it yourself. I looked but not could not find one person who have done it themselves with pics. So here goes Section 1 on how to do it. Tools needed - Socket Wench, Torque Wench, 10mm socket, 14 mm socket, low profile bit socket for tight areas with 10mm bit socket, painters tape to mark wiper arm position, paper towels, power screw driver or driver"helpful, but not necessary", Slim spark plug socket with long extension or two regular extensions, and patience. First mark the wiper arm position using painters tape, next remove round plastic dust cap on wiper arms to access the nuts to be removed. The nuts are 10mm or 14mm, I had to change sizes a few times during the process. Must nuts on the Murano are 10mm, but a couple nuts are 14mm. Then remove the rubber weatherstripping off the plastic cowl by removing clips with a clip removal tool. Next, unclip the plastic cowl from the metal cowl, but be careful with the washer nozzle tubes underneath, because they have to be removed before the plastic cowl can be removed. Next remove the wiper motor assembly by removing three 10mm bolts. Next, remove a number of 10mm bolts that secures the metal cowl to the body. I used a power impact wrench to do it quickly, but can be done by hand. Next remove washer tube from metal cowl and remove cowl. Next is Section 2.
 

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#2 ·
Can't wait to see your next step because I need to replace my spark plugs soon too
 
#3 ·
Section 2- 2006 Murano Spark plug change

This is Section 2 of how to do a Nissan Murano spark plug change. First remove to engine cover, you will need a square bit to remove bolts. Next, you will be removing the center air duct assembly. Do not forget to remove the PVC hose from duct assembly. Next you will unbolt the round vacuum in the center and the VIAS control solenoid valve also in the center. You do not have to unplug them,I move them off to the side while I worked. Next remove the wiring harnesses from it posts by using a set of pliers to squeeze the clips ends together and remove the clips from their posts.Freeing the wiring harness will help give you room to work on the first set of sparks plugs closest to the front. Next unbolt the EVAP control solenoid in front of the throttle body. You do not have to unplug the rubber hoses, just move them to the side. Next unplug the rear PCV hose connected to the PCV valve in the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Also remove the power steering hose bracket in the rear of the engine to the right of the PCV valve using a 10mm socket. Do not forget to remove the harness bracket in the rear of the intake manifold collector as well.It has one 10mm bolt holding it in place. Look around the engine and unplug any harnesses or rubber hoses that is connected to the intake manifold collector and engine. Next remove the five 10mm bolts that holds down the intake manifold collector in the center. Then remove the two 10mm bolts in the rear support bracket behind the throttle body. It is a very tight fit between the support bracket and the fire wall. Now you should easily be able to lift the intake manifold collector of the engine, if not check for any harnesses or hoses still connected. I just gently moved the intake collector off to the side as I worked. Next cover the intake ports with some paper towels prevent anything falling inside them as you work. Now, change spark plugs as normal. First unplug coil pack, then remove coil packs, and next remove spark plugs. Section 3 coming soon.
 

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#5 ·
This thread was also very detailed. Warhammer did I great job.
I actually printed some of those pictures and used them as a reference when I changed mine.

http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/...le-body-spark-plugs-firewall-valve-cover.html

You are right. I wished I would have found this walk-through before I did my spark plugs. I hope my pics and his pics combined will help someone do the job themselves. I did not get too technical with the line pointing because I decided to make a how-to for people who already know how to change spark plugs, but only need to know how to remove the cowl and intake collector only.
 
#7 ·
Man, I was thinking the same thing when I first asked Nissan's service department how much to do it. I was feeling lazy. When Nissan's service told me 500+ dollars because of the labor involved, I asked why and was told that I had to remove the entire wiper assembly, cowl section, and intake collector. I was amazed that Nissan did not think ahead about making the Murano easier to maintain. I have removed intake manifolds on other car brands before to remove spark plugs-2005 Mercury Montego and 2005 Volvo S40, but never to this extreme as with the Murano. All and all it took me five hours to complete the job, I could have done it quicker if I did not stop to take pictures and charge my power tool. So maybe a three hour job.
 
#13 ·
Nissan is odd. The cabin air filter is the easiest cabin filter to change in any car I owned before,just open the glove box and reach in and swap filter out, done, but it requires a complete engine bay disassembly to change only three spark plugs in the rear of the engine. Oh well, I still love the Murano. But, I would began to hate it if I had to pay someone else to fix all the little problems that have creeped up lately. Wheel bearings, gas door, sparkplugs, power steering hose, and broken driver's seat frame. I would be in the poor house if I had to pay a mechanic everytime it needed something repaired. DIY is a must for a Murano owner without a factory warranty.
 
#14 ·
Spark Plug Change - Part III?

Carguy75, I was fascinated by the great pictures and story on how to change out the plugs. I'm doing this job tomorrow. I've read your post several times and it says that part III will come shortly, but I can find it? Thanks again......wish me luck.

John McCarthy
Crystal Lake, IL
 
#15 ·
Carguy75, I was fascinated by the great pictures and story on how to change out the plugs. I'm doing this job tomorrow. I've read your post several times and it says that part III will come shortly, but I can find it? Thanks again......wish me luck.

John McCarthy
Crystal Lake, IL
Sorry, i never made a part three because someone else already posted a how-to in the engine maintance section of this forum. I posted part one and two before someone mentioned that fact to me. The one listed in the maintance section is just as detailed or more than the one one I was doing. :29: P.S. part three was just the reversal of the part one and two, reassembly.
 
#16 ·
S@$*t.... its my turn to do it!!. well with this post hopefully ill be able to do it. how come you used denso spark plugs on it? isnt that worse than using oem ngks spark plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 
#17 ·
S@$*t.... its my turn to do it!!. well with this post hopefully ill be able to do it. how come you used denso spark plugs on it? isnt that worse than using oem ngks spark plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
No. Denso iridium sparkplugs are the OEM plug for the newer Infiniti FX suvs. I choose Denso power because they are great plugs that have a fine electrode that produces a hotter spark than the old platinum-style plugs which Nissan do not use anymore in most of their cars now. Plus, the Denso plugs give the Murano about 2-3 mpg city more than it did before the change. P.S. the Denso Power iridium plugs are supposed to last about 100K miles or more. The Denso longlife iridium plugs are supposed to last 200K miles or more. That is why I chose Denso.:29: P.S. again, the OEM NGK spark plug I replaced on my Murano had a cracked insulator around the electrode only after 90k miles. The picture posted above in section two-sparkplug change shows the NGK sparkplug with the cracked insulator next to the new Denso plug.
 
#20 ·
I did the spark plug changed before and I found it on the other forum which was from a Nissan Altima 3.5SL all were pictured as well, I did the task for 3hrs. including breaks LOL!
I save a lot on this one.
 
#21 ·
Congrats. It is not hard to change the plugs, just time consuming with the extra parts that have to be removed. Did the guy with Altima have to remove the wiper assembly also?
 
#25 ·
1.1mm or 0.043"

-njjoe
 
#26 ·
I've changed out several sets as well over the years. Some sets of plugs required the gap spec to be adjusted. These particular plugs were free floating inside of their little boxes. Not exactly what you want to see for something with such a precise spec. Even so, the plugs that came with those little plastic sheaths to protect the tips have always been at the correct gap spec.
Whilst on the topic of plugs, I've started my research for "the plug" to use, and they are all listed with different temps, different tips i.e: Copper (who, and why:28:), Iridium, and "Double Iridium".
One more question: When replacing the manifold gasket, which tools should I use/attain (the perk of garage work:cool:), and are there any cautions or tips to pass on? Thanks yall!
 
#27 ·
Additional question

Thanks for the valuable info here regarding plug changes, which my 2004 now needs. I'm going to have my mechanic do it with iridium plugs, as many here seem to like.

1. Any preference for NTK over DENSO?

2. Any other little pain-in-the-ass things that should be replaced while the intake assembly is removed? Things like oxygen sensor, etc. Things that would require the entire dis-assembly again to replace?

Also: opinions wanted on whether I should get new shocks just on principle after 115K miles.

Thanks
 
#28 ·
I wouldn't swap anything out unless you have to. Saves money.

If you need new plugs, just change those out. Keep it simple.

Read my thread, posted earlier in this thread, about how to swap out the plugs. Watch out for oil in the plug barrels!
 
#29 ·
The factory gap is .043in.
 
#31 ·
I believe the primarys cats are on the bottom of the engine, so probably not. But I have not done exhaust work on the Murano, however most cats on other cars are attached to the exhaust manifolds near the bottom of the engine; so I do not see a need to remove the intake manifold to change the cats. However, you may have to remove the air intake, radiator, and maybe some hoses to get enough clearance to work, especially without using a lift to help get underneath the Murano.
 
#34 ·
You are the 2nd person who told me not to attempt to change the cats without a lift. I'm not afraid to get the Mo off the ground with jack stands and work off the floor on my back. Am I being naive?
No, you are not naive. I believe it is easier to work while standing while the car is lifted, but I do work using jack stands also. However, I prefer using a lift.:29:
 
#33 ·
I've eyeballed the front cats and it looks to me like they're serviceable without a lift - but you may need the jackstands up high. I've done a LOT more work than I care to admit with a car up on jackstands. My 280ZX is up on stands in my garage as I write this.
 
#35 ·
A lot of people will tell you you can't do things that you actually can. Back in 1968 I replaced the rear end 3rd member and the transmission on a '59 Ford, working in a gas station parking lot with a bumper jack, a couple of stumps to prop the car on, and the hand tools in the trunk. It took a long three weeks hitchhiking back and forth between where the car was beached and where I was living.

I sure wouldn't do it again by choice, but with care and determination many things can be done.
 
#36 ·
Just don't be stupid about it. If you have the front end up in the air, block off the rear wheels. If you need all 4 corners in the air, use 4 sturdy jack stands. After you get it in the air, push on it on all 4 corners to ensure it's not going anywhere. You don't want the vehicle to come down on you when you're under it.
 
#37 ·
Simple and accurate.

And if you're not putting the jackstands on a stable base like concrete, do what I do - I keep some chunks of 2x12 handy to put under the jackstands. They are thick enough to provide a stable base when you have to deal with old asphalt that might crumble, or worse, if you have to work on gravel. As a bonus, they also provide another 1 3/4" of lift.
 
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