Should I Trade my 2005 Murano With 101,000 Miles? - Nissan Murano Forum
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#1 Old 02-17-2013, 11:58 AM
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Should I Trade my 2005 Murano With 101,000 Miles?

Hello all, thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences on this forum.

I've been struggling over the past few days to make a decision on whether to trade my 2005 Murano SL, and am wondering what others' thoughts are on keeping vs. trading a high-mileage Murano. I have read the threads below, but this is a bit of a different decision from BUYING a high-mileage Muarano in that we know the maintenance and repair history here.


Should i buy 2004 Murano with 60000 miles on it ?

Used 2003 Murano... 117,000 KM'S.. should I buy?

Looking to buy used need some info.

$3596 to replace 03 murano transfer case.

Short background: I bought the '05 in 2008 with just 17,000 miles on it. I really, really like everything about the vehicle, it still drives great and looks great. That said, on Friday I had to have it towed for the third time this year, and it has got me thinking that at 101k miles it has passed the tipping point of reliability vs. cost. I paid it off two years ago so have zero car payments now which is nice.

The events causing it to be towed were relatively minor, first the alternator went out around 90k miles, and I had it towed to the shop for a next-day replacement. The replacement part was defective and went out two weeks later, so I had it towed again to the same shop and they replaced it for free. And then Friday the entire electrical system went dead when I tried to start it in the grocery store parking lot. Turned out to be a simple repair of a bad connection where a battery cable connects to the main electrical system, the shop just charged me a $70 diagnostic fee.

Still, I have spent a lot on repairs over the past two years. Over the course of several trips to the shop, I replaced a high pressure power steering line and both front struts plus had all of the drive belts replaced, then later the water pump went out, and then the alternator. I also put a new set of very good tires on it around 10k miles ago. In total I've spent around $3,500 on repairs plus around $900 on tires over the past two years.

I have not changed the CVT fluid yet, but know I need to, especially since it probably got hot when the water pump went out. And Friday after performing the minor repair, the shop informed me that it needs two engine mounts replaced at a total repair cost of around $1,100.

I'm doing the math and also weighing whether I can afford both the disruption of decreased reliability and the increased maintenance cost. And all the while I know that a $5,000 CVT replacement is hovering out there somewhere down the road.

I've been online looking at both new and certified pre-owned Rogues and Muranos. The modest cost difference between a new 2012s/2013s and certified pre-owned 2010s have me leaning toward new. I have not test-driven the Rogue, but my wife drives a Honda CRV and I kind of think that the Rogue might be too small and bouncy for me, although it has all of my preferred features. So really the decision is whether to keep my 2005 (which I still like a lot), or trade it for a new Murano now, before more expensive repairs are needed and before the CVT goes kaput, vs. keeping it and hopefully get another 3 years or more out of it. KBB puts its value at around $8,000 at trade-in. I can afford the payments if I trade for a new one, but on the other hand honestly I can endure a bit of disruption of time in the shop (we are a three-vehicle family). I'm just trying to make a final assessment of what will probably happen over the next three years if I keep it.

Has anyone else here either done some planning or made the decision to "keep it til it dies" on their Murano after driving it themselves past the 100k mark? And.....how is the decision panning out?
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#2 Old 02-17-2013, 01:37 PM
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Your repair costs are higher than I would expect, which certainly is a factor. For example, the quote on motor mounts seems high to me.

I drive used cars, and my normal expectation is that once the car payments end, I can spend less on repairs annually than car payments would cost me for an equivalent vehicle. Of course, the more I pay per repair the more questionable this assumption becomes. I do must of my own work, which makes a big difference. You're paying primo money for repairs, and you may be able to find dependable service at lower cost.

Newer cars have more systems which require either diagnostic or maintenance work with expensive computers. Example: after changing the battery in my wife's 2009 BMW 328iX, you must re-set the car's electrical system with a $300 tool....go figure. This does reduce the number of things that a DIY guy can do, but things like brakes, motor mounts, hubs and other mechanical parts are no different now than they were 30 years ago - still user serviceable at considerable savings.

The KEY to me is the engine and drivetrain. If the engine is sound, the transmission works and the transfer case is good, then the heart of the vehicle is serviceable and the vehicle is dependable. Shocks, alternators, motor mounts and stuff like that may cost some $, but they're all peripheral to the functioning of the car.

If the engine and drivetrain are solid, then my vote is to find less expensive mechanical help and keep the car. If you have doubts about the drivetrain, I suggest changing vehicles.

And BTW - your statement about the fluid in the CVT is not true. You don't need to change it because of the engine heating. That event wouldn't affect the CVT fluid at all. However, changing fluids is not an unreasonable assumption or action at 100K miles, and it won't be wasted money at that mileage. The real test of the CVT fluid is done at a dealership with a Consult machine that assesses the fluid.

If you want to change the fluid, you can do it yourself - I believe there is a description of the process somewhere in the Maintenance threads.

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#3 Old 02-17-2013, 08:01 PM
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I live in Richmond VA and was inquiring about a leftover 2012 MO. The local dealer was matching the factory rebate of $4,000 for a total of $8,000. That brings the price down to $21,000 less your trade in value and that is a good deal for this vehicle. I don't know if all dealers will offer this special but it is worth inquiring.
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#4 Old 02-17-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HighNoon View Post
I live in Richmond VA and was inquiring about a leftover 2012 MO. The local dealer was matching the factory rebate of $4,000 for a total of $8,000. That brings the price down to $21,000 less your trade in value and that is a good deal for this vehicle. I don't know if all dealers will offer this special but it is worth inquiring.
Are you sure you posted in the right thread? This doesn't make sense here.

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#5 Old 02-17-2013, 08:49 PM
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ChrisinAZ was asking to keep or trade the vehicle. If you can get $8,000 off the sticker price plus the value of the trade, I would recommend trading it in if you can afford to do that.
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#6 Old 02-19-2013, 11:51 AM
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ChrisInAZ

I drove my MO' into the ground at 186,000 miles.

The last 2 years were expensive on my pocket book, the final straw being my alternator causing a fire in the engine bay. According to the service manager at my dealership is that these vehicles basically fall apart after high mileage, and the sheer amount of repairs I had to endure (High pressure hose, dodgy cvt acceleration, wheel bearings, corroded parts, etc) will validate that theory.

There is a high demand for these vehicles on the used market, and as a result you have the benefit of a decent trade in value.

I would trade it in.
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#7 Old 02-19-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HighNoon View Post
ChrisinAZ was asking to keep or trade the vehicle. If you can get $8,000 off the sticker price plus the value of the trade, I would recommend trading it in if you can afford to do that.
OK, missed that buried in the last paragraph.

Used car prices are indeed high, and I think if I could get $8K for an 05 with more than 100K miles I'd be inclined to do it.

But whether that's good or not depends....

In my experience KBB is usually high on vehicles. Check your numbers at Edmunds.com and use the lowest number to approximate your trade-in value. I ran it at Edmunds with no accessories and came up with trade-in value of $7200. With accessories and options it should work out higher than $7200 but a dealer will subtract something for re-conditioning and cleanup.

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#8 Old 02-20-2013, 08:28 AM
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I suggest you keep the Mo and look for a new shop. There are times when the dealer is much more worth it than private shops. My Mo has 145K miles and still running great. I try to do most repairs and maintenance myself, but there are still times that take to the dealer is worth it for me.

For example, the belts. If not tensioned properly when replaced, they could cause bearing failure on pully components (i.e., water pump, alternator, etc.). Same with the alternator replacement, you have to remove a lot of components from the Mo (ie., wires and some remove radiator) to access/replace it.

I had a freind that had his thermostat replaced on his vehicle from a local garage.
As the seasons changed, he realized he had no heat 2 month later. Come to find out, the garage did top off the removed antifreeze after replacing the antifreeze.

This is simply an example and I realize not all garages are that way. But remember, they are a business.

Just my 2 cents

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#9 Old 02-22-2013, 01:07 PM
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You should make the decision to keep the Murano or sell it on your own. You will get different opinions about how reliable the Murano will be after 100K miles. Some will say it will last forever with no major problems and some will say it is a piece of sh_t. I would go by the reliability history of your present Murano and decide if it is worth the cost of keeping.

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#10 Old 02-23-2013, 09:35 AM
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Over 100K?

Trade it.

This car will kill you in maintenance costs at that mileage.

Former owner of ~~~~> Black O3 SE AWD

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#11 Old 02-23-2013, 12:28 PM
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I kind of wonder what, if anything, he decided.

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#12 Old 03-13-2013, 11:20 AM
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Oh, that new car smell!

I have a 2009 Mo with 117,000 miles on it and have been thinking the exact same thing. I want a new Mo not because I think my current Mo is too expensive to maintain. I just did a CVT fluid change cost $132.00. Got the fluid from Amazon.com. Simple change.

The transfer case makes a clunking sound (very seldom) but makes me nervous. That's the thing a new car doesn't make you nervous when your are crusin down the street. The older the car gets and the more problems you have with it the more nervous you are about driving it. I have to drive 45 miles one way to get to work. Sometimes in snow and bad weather up a lonely mountain road. I don't want to think my vehicle is going to break down on me.

Lastly a new car doesn't have any scratches, door dings or dents. Shouldn't be leaving any oil stains on the driveway and Oh that new car smell!!!
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