Cam Shaft help - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
#16 Old 02-26-2013, 02:09 PM
Moderator
 
Pilgrim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 4,378
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Clearly, you are plugged in on this....I have some questions. (I assume that VQ refers to the V6 in the Murano...)

What's a VCT?

What is B1?

I'll defer to you if you have found that these build varnish, although I've never seen that occur with synthetic oil. Maybe mistreatment and improper oil usage by a former owner would change this.

I still would not personally drive a vehicle with any thinning agent in the oil.

2007 Murano
2009 BMW 328xi
1983 280ZX Turbo
Pilgrim is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#17 Old 02-26-2013, 03:14 PM
KtG
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yes, VQ is the engine family the Murano's V6 belongs to. Murano has a VQ35DE. Nissan's Go-to V6 for some time now, first seen (US market) in the 300zx. Infiniti uses this family in everything that isnt a V8. Several flavors with various features are available.

VCT is varibale Cam timing. In the case of the Murano's flavor of VQ, only the intake cams are varied. Same as 02-08 max, 02+ Altima, and older Pathfinders. There is an oil control valve on top of the head, on the front end of the engine, right behind the timing cover. Newer VQ's have the oil control in the front cover.

VCT is very neat system. Basically, it lets the vehicle have the power of a large-cammed motor, with the emissions and MPG of a less aggressive cam. This is because the valve events are no longer fixed. The Lobe separation angle is variable to play with scavenging (hence no more EGR) and Intake open/close are variable to maximize the cylinder charge for engine RPM. If it isnt working, the system should stick at the '0' position for starting and idle. power will suffer because the cam profile is made to be varied. At the idle setting, it wont let the proper charge in. No air, no power.

The 09 headgasket issue (really late 08 -early 10) on Murano, max and Altima really solidified any doubt I may have had on the value of an oil change. So many cars (100 personally done, give or take, in the last 3 years), all serviced by us, usually with the same oil and filter. Only the interval varied, and I had that history. History also gives an idea of driving habits. some folks chose to run a Synthetic, only delays the inevitable. Some of these engines were down right nasty inside. The only engine I've seen that builds varnish and sludge faster is the older QR25 4-bangers (altima, Rogue, et al). Anyway. The folks who change their oil conservatively (3k/3mo for a 50/50 mix of driving) had internals I'd eat off of, shiny aluminum up to 80k miles. As early as 4k/4mo (5k syn) a golden hue can be visible after 30k miles. That turns brown at about 5 months, and leaves weak pudding in the pan. The most problematic VQs belong to folks who think that never changing the oil because of something they read on the internet will save them money. 8k/6mo is really pushing it on anything but super premium oils, and even then it is leaving deposits.

For 2014, nissan is going to 5k service on everything but GTR. Far cry from the split 3750(severe)/7500(normal) intervals. Why? Because it is simpler for the customer, and also because their engines can't really take it. Truth is, most cars DO fall under Severe, but you'll never convince the customer. I spend a lot of time talking to customers about oil. We do a service on most Nissans (under 5Q) for $26 out the door. cheap insurance.

B1 (Bank 1) is the back half of the engine. Nothing back there is fun or easy to service. B2 up front, its not hard to pop the oil control off and check/clean it. I still just run a cleaner.

SCOPE Senior Specialist, DFRT and EV. ASE Master Technician.
KtG is offline  
#18 Old 02-26-2013, 03:36 PM
Moderator
 
Pilgrim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 4,378
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Interesting stuff, thanks.

But there are some things in the post above which seem to be combined and I'm a bit confused as to the relationship between them.

Are you saying that even in a perfectly operating VQ engine, unless synthetic oils and filters are changed at intervals of less than 5K miles, the engines will create gelatin-like deposits in the oil pan?

And to clarify, did you state that this happens 5 months after the vehicle reaches 30K miles on the motor (that section is not clear to me)?

Or are you suggesting that the gelatin-like material starts to form only in engines that have an antifreeze leak?

I'm fairly sure that I'm not understanding clearly.

2007 Murano
2009 BMW 328xi
1983 280ZX Turbo
Pilgrim is offline  
#19 Old 02-26-2013, 04:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Alright, Buy the sea foam product and drive on it for about a day. Then, I proceed to change my pan. In addiction, I change my oil from convential to 50/50 or Fully syntethic?
gtpityou is offline  
#20 Old 02-26-2013, 05:29 PM
KtG
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Interesting stuff, thanks.

But there are some things in the post above which seem to be combined and I'm a bit confused as to the relationship between them.

Are you saying that even in a perfectly operating VQ engine, unless synthetic oils and filters are changed at intervals of less than 5K miles, the engines will create gelatin-like deposits in the oil pan?

And to clarify, did you state that this happens 5 months after the vehicle reaches 30K miles on the motor (that section is not clear to me)?

Or are you suggesting that the gelatin-like material starts to form only in engines that have an antifreeze leak?

I'm fairly sure that I'm not understanding clearly.
I've never seen the headgasket problem get into the oil or cylinders. External leaks only.

The engines Ive torn down and repaired have ranged from 1500 miles to 115,000 miles. if you change the oil every 3k/30 (5k/4mo synthetic) the inside of that engine will look brand new all the way to 100k. You can run a top-shelf premium syn like Amsoil or Shaefer 9000 to 8k/6mos with no worries.

From here, it snow balls. every 1k/1mo you add to your oil type from here starts the varnish and pudding. And it just builds. a 60k motor that has had 4k/4mo changes looks like a 30k motor that has had 7k/6 month changes. Talking conventional/blends here now. its brown, chain guides are brittle, the 'lifters' in the valve train arent shiny. I've got pictures somewhere of a 90k motor that was black inside. Totally black. That murano lost its oil pump, and the owner changed the Mobil1 every 9k or so.

One of the downsides of being a flat-rate tech is not having enough time. I wish I could go back to when I was doing 3-4 headgaskets a week and take pictures. Really document what I was seeing. The pictures are worth a million words.

But the VQ has a nice large oil fill that provides a good look. If the metal you see inside looks any thing other than a slightly golden (forgive me for crudeness, but go pee on aluminum. That is how it should look) color, consider changing the oil more often or using a higher grade. If you see any obvious dark streaks, or brown/black, clean it.

SCOPE Senior Specialist, DFRT and EV. ASE Master Technician.
KtG is offline  
#21 Old 02-26-2013, 05:36 PM
KtG
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KtG View Post
I've never seen the headgasket problem get into the oil or cylinders. External leaks only.

The engines Ive torn down and repaired have ranged from 1500 miles to 115,000 miles. if you change the oil every 3k/30 (5k/4mo synthetic) the inside of that engine will look brand new all the way to 100k. You can run a top-shelf premium syn like Amsoil or Shaefer 9000 to 8k/6mos with no worries.

From here, it snow balls. every 1k/1mo you add to your oil type from here starts the varnish and pudding. And it just builds. a 60k motor that has had 4k/4mo changes looks like a 30k motor that has had 7k/6 month changes. Talking conventional/blends here now. its brown, chain guides are brittle, the 'lifters' in the valve train arent shiny. I've got pictures somewhere of a 90k motor that was black inside. Totally black. That murano lost its oil pump, and the owner changed the Mobil1 every 9k or so.

One of the downsides of being a flat-rate tech is not having enough time. I wish I could go back to when I was doing 3-4 headgaskets a week and take pictures. Really document what I was seeing. The pictures are worth a million words.

But the VQ has a nice large oil fill that provides a good look. If the metal you see inside looks any thing other than a slightly golden (forgive me for crudeness, but go pee on aluminum. That is how it should look) color, consider changing the oil more often or using a higher grade. If you see any obvious dark streaks, or brown/black, clean it.
Unless you ONLY drive for at least 30 minutes every time you start the car, you probably fall under the Severe schedule. Especially in winter. The shorter the trip, the harder it is on the oil. The longer the trip, the better.

SCOPE Senior Specialist, DFRT and EV. ASE Master Technician.
KtG is offline  
#22 Old 02-27-2013, 01:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Alright so I just checked my transmission oil and it was very low. In addition, I read that the trans oil is supposed to be pinkish when you check it . Mines was light brown. That might be the reason why my car has not enough power, and acts slow to pick up
gtpityou is offline  
#23 Old 02-27-2013, 07:43 PM
KtG
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpityou View Post
Alright so I just checked my transmission oil and it was very low. In addition, I read that the trans oil is supposed to be pinkish when you check it . Mines was light brown. That might be the reason why my car has not enough power, and acts slow to pick up
Murano doesnt use a red fluid. Light brown is ok.

SCOPE Senior Specialist, DFRT and EV. ASE Master Technician.
KtG is offline  
#24 Old 02-27-2013, 10:59 PM
Moderator
 
Pilgrim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 4,378
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
I must say that I'm surprised and a bit taken aback to read that account (Post #20) of synthetic oil congealing in that manner. It is a completely different report from anything else I've ever read. I've never seen reports of synthetic behaving in that manner unless it was either contaminated or badly overheated.

If that is the case, then a hot drain should still remove the compromised oil. The obvious problem would occur if the oil pump pickup ran that stuff through the engine, which clearly is undesirable.

I admit I'll take that report with a grain of salt, but I'll keep my eyes open.

2007 Murano
2009 BMW 328xi
1983 280ZX Turbo
Pilgrim is offline  
#25 Old 02-28-2013, 10:23 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Camshaft Position Sensor code is P0340. And No, you don't need to replace both banks if one is failing. Also, it is so easy to change that Camshaft Position Sensor bank 1, look for the green plugs (is the one near the Air Intake Duct, rear...)

That mech wants to rip you by telling you the bad diagnostic. Go to AutoZone next time and let them read the code for you!!! For FREEE!!!!!!

Even a girl like me can do it!
mirle is offline  
#26 Old 03-01-2013, 09:59 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the advise
gtpityou is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On