Wife and I both hear and feel the thump on acceleration in the floor board. I also feel it in the gas pedal when going from a full stop. Also can hear and feel it when going over a rough road (ice packed side streets in Calgary).
I've done some searches here and looks like my symptoms are in line with bad motor mount(s). Question is how do I tell which ones are failing?
I've read that some people opted to replace their mounts from oil filled to rubber. Is that an option on the 2nd Gen? What kind of mounts are on this vehicle? Ours is a early model 2009 (produced in 2008). Thanks.
I have the same early 09 model with the same thump. The NTB12-031 on this only points to one of the mounts - The Front Engine Mounting Insulator (4WD 11270 – 1AA1B*) (2WD 11270 – 1AA0B*). *Parts may now be superseded. $200
I have the same early 09 model with the same thump. The NTB12-031 on this only points to one of the mounts - The Front Engine Mounting Insulator (4WD 11270 – 1AA1B*) (2WD 11270 – 1AA0B*). *Parts may now be superseded. $200
In my 07 model I replaced two of three mounts. I bought a solid rubber mount to replace the mount with no electrical connection - Rockauto, about $45. I figured I didn't need an OEM mount for that application.
For the mount which did have an electrical connection, I bought an OEM mount with the same connection - about $160.
Nope (not yet), since I know what it is, and it's not harming anything, I just ignore it.
btw, when mine was still under warranty, Nissan said they could reproduce the sound and "it looks fine" - which in itself is true. But the NTB says nothing about how it looks. I should have pushed Nissan harder to fix it then :cursin: So your mechanic may not be able to "see" anything wrong with it. Good Luck!
For a 2010 Murano, Rockauto.com lists two right front mounts.
One is "OEM hydraulic" at $56.
One is "Front right" at $79.
No idea what the difference is.
My Murano didn't have a thump, but it was increasingly noisy under acceleration when cold; it sounded like some part of the engine might be in contact with the frame or body, which implied that there was excess engine movement. The noise moderated when the engine warmed up; why, I don't know.
Replacing the mounts resulted in significant reduction of noise, and slightly better throttle response. I think that restricting the engine movement helped the drivetrain act a bit "tighter."
When you say noisy, was it a rattle?. If so that would be the heat shield for the exhaust.
The motor mount may not be critical to change but it does feel like I need to baby it on acceleration. I would rather have the drivetrain act "tighter" as you described, it certainly feels loose now!
I think those 2 in RockAuto are the same Front Right mounts (part 11220P in the illustration)
The FRONT insulator is the one that needs to be replaced according to the NTB - Part 11270M
I can't say it's a big difference, but even my wife commented that the Murano seemed a little more responsive from a stop after I changed the motor mounts. I just think it eliminated some driveline slop. I can't opine that this will be the case for everyone.
My '07 front mount (low on the driver's side center/front, next to the frame) was really ripped up. I'm sure the motor was torquing over when power hit it, especially from a stop.
I think I may have this problem with my 2010. Does anyone have the details on the TSB, I can't seem to find it or I don't have access. Has anyone changed this themselves, is it difficult? Thanks
Update
So took it in to the stealer to have the noise checked. They say the two front lower control arms are cracked and torn and that's where my issue is (i guess they're referring to the ball joint and bushing on the other end which can't be changed separate from the lower arm ). Total cost to replace and realign would be $940.
The car has 160k km now. Anyone had these replaced yet? I might end up ordering the parts and changing myself (minus the alignment )
Either DIY or have an independent shop do it...with aftermarket parts, or buy the OEM parts online at a discount. $940 is way high. But do have the alignment afterwards.
Ya will do..I just meant I won't be doing the alignment myself.
I looked at the notes from the dealer again and they wrote "rear shocks leaked out" to me the mo still feels stiff in the back. I'll call them and see what leaked out means
Update:
I drove the mo for the first time since it got back from the dealer and didn't notice anymore thump or knock. It's completely gone!
I checked their notes again and the tech wrote: " inspected and found intermediate steering shaft loose. Reinstalled properly and torqued bolt. Re-road tested and heavy clunk is eliminated."
Seems that's all it was and they decided to advise me on a few different repairs they could make a coin on. (Front LCA's and rear shocks for $1400)
I ordered 2 front LCA's and rear shocks from rockauto for $470 shipped.
Will be replacing soon in my garage. Might post a DIY with pics after.
Just to update.. I got the LCA's (beck/arnley) and rear shocks(Monroe) and put them on. Wasn't as easy as I thought. Had a hard time removing the top nut on the shock so I ended up using a vise grip on the bottom of the rod under the rubber boot and used and deep socket impact.
The control arms were much more challenging to line up and put on.
I started with the ball joint in first then went on to line up the bushings... Lots of maneuvering. Would've been easier with a helper but managed to fit them in after a struggle. Couldn't find any torque specs for the lower control arm bolts so I torqued all 3 at 150.
Didn't notice anything off alignment but got one anyway. They said the toe was a little off of one side.
Car feels tighter/stiffer now. Saved $1000 by doing it myself. Feels good
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