| snatcher |
| Hi there.... I currently own a 2003 SL Murano. It dawned upon me just yesterday that my OEM battery has been in used for almost 4.5 years. No problem so far, but having read so many threads, i think its about time i changed the battery. I live in Tucson, AZ, any recommendations for a battery change. I'm looking at the DURALAST 35-DL. The OEM battery CCA is 575, while the DURALAST 35-DL CCA is 500. Any problems with that? Also how do i check the battery fluid level? Appreciate any help on this... thanks |
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| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by snatcher
Hi there.... I currently own a 2003 SL Murano. It dawned upon me just yesterday that my OEM battery has been in used for almost 4.5 years. No problem so far, but having read so many threads, i think its about time i changed the battery. I live in Tucson, AZ, any recommendations for a battery change. I'm looking at the DURALAST 35-DL. The OEM battery CCA is 575, while the DURALAST 35-DL CCA is 500. Any problems with that? Also how do i check the battery fluid level? Appreciate any help on this... thanks
To check the fluid level, remove the cell caps (on the OEM you unscrew six of them, and on the DL you pop off two caps), and refill with distilled water up the level of the bottom of the hole (for lack of a better term). Do not overfill (it doesn't take much), you don't want sulfuric acid to spill out as you screw back in the caps.
If you are going to replace the battery, don't leave your MO disconnected from the battery too long or else you might lose the computer settings and have to go to the dealer to set the idle air control speed (a real hassle). In other words, remove old battery, put in new one at the same time. |
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| Corin |
| There have been several posts about batteries and what people have been putting in recently. I went for an Optima Red Top, as did several others on this forum, but it is a PRICEY battery. Very good, but you certainly pay for it. There are several other good recommendations, just do a search for Battery. |
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| Gonzo |
| 4.5 years old... its just getting broken in. I also have an 03 with the original battery. I figure I have a few more years left in it before I need to replace it. |
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| njjoe |
snatcher-
In my opinion the type of battery you get all depends on how long you plan on keeping the car and how you drive it. If you are only going to keep it for another year and the car is not going to be used that often, then I would opt for a less expensive battery. On the other hand, if you plan on keeping the MO for another 4+ years and it is your primary vehicle that accumulates a lot of hours, then I would opt for a "better" battery.
And by the way, don't take any advice from Gonzo when it comes to batteries. I think his car has a space-age nuclear storage device in place of the battery.
-njjoe |
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| Mr3Putt |
Don't forget to check out the Kirkland battery sold at Costco.
It's made, er, Manufactured, by Johnson Controls, has a 36 month free replacement and 100 month prorated warranty.
Mine has a bunch more Gigawatts than the factory battery, fits perfectly, better warranty, maintenance free. I think it cost $56.
You have to install it yourself, I did mine with one of those all in one leatherman folding wrenches in the Costco parking lot. (my battery died right there, how convenient!) Took all of 10 minutes to replace, I double checked the install when I got home. |
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| Hilbe |
| CostCo is usually the cheapest for the CCA's. I got mine there... |
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| BikerJohn |
If you're in AZ; I'm not too sure if CCA would matter too much in your choice. I would opt more for 1)- warranty and how it's handled; 2)-what is convenient to you to have the replacement installed and 3)-is it something you want to do yourself to save a bit more?
Spending 15-20% more or less on something like a battery that should last you 3-4 years seems more a choice of the items above than one of a particular brand.
I've installed a localy manufactured one with a CCA rating of 35-550 and a CA rating of 650 for mine last year. The warranty is handled where I purchased it(2 mins. from the house).
I would highly recommend looking the warranty and how it's honoured of any battery retailer as my priority issue when purchasing a battery(assuming that it's made to fit your car).;) |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| I'm pretty sure the stock '03 batteries were 483CCA. WAY underpowered. You're lucky your's has lasted so long. 500CCA is a bit better, but I would seriously suggest going no lower than 600CCA. |
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| Lightninrod |
My replacement vehicle batteries have always been gel-cells(Optima, NAPA brand); NO ACID, much more resistance to banging around, ability to mount it anywhere(such as in the rear 1/4 panel of my Z281LE track car) and even upside down, no maintenance. able to be made in small size for special vehicles, etc., etc.
I even put this one in my little(10'X4') bass boat for the trolling motor and this one for our John Deere lawn tractor when its almost new 'wet' battery failed recently.
Dan |
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| nitely |
| I bought the costco battery as well. Its been about 4 months now and no problem. Right before the battery died--weakening--my old vdc /ses codes started to show up again. thought it was recurring. but after I replaced the battery with the new costco one and after I reset the ses lights nothing came back. Its all like brand new again. Thank god for that. I did have the dealer check the codes and they said that its the battery - cause it died right there in their driveway-they needed to jump it --they said that sometimes weak battery screws up the electrical system and sends error signals that may not be actually there. It might be the case this time around- with me anyway. |
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