| bbiedny |
| Ok, so here is the question, I have a 2004 Murano with the Bose system. I went and upgraded the speaker to the 2 Ohm Infinity Kappa’s (Great improvement) I also installed the Axxess XM/IPod adapter, which works like a charm, so now the question is, If I want to upgrade the Bose Amp to something better, how intricate an upgrade is this using the currently run wiring? Of course I know I would have to lose the Bose Sub, no big deal I imagine. Is this a nightmare or fairly straightforward? |
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| xconcepts |
quote:
Originally posted by bbiedny
Ok, so here is the question, I have a 2004 Murano with the Bose system. I went and upgraded the speaker to the 2 Ohm Infinity Kappa’s (Great improvement) I also installed the Axxess XM/IPod adapter, which works like a charm, so now the question is, If I want to upgrade the Bose Amp to something better, how intricate an upgrade is this using the currently run wiring? Of course I know I would have to lose the Bose Sub, no big deal I imagine. Is this a nightmare or fairly straightforward?
Not to big of a deal, but u will need to run a new power wire, ground wire and the RCA's. You will also need either the PAC-OEM1 for the amp rca outputs or the JL Cleansweep. U can use the wiring going from the bose amp to the speakers. |
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| bbiedny |
| There Seems to be a HUGE Price difference Between the JL Cleansweep and the PAC OEM. Obviously I would prefer to spend less on The PAC, any Input? (pardon the Pun) |
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| xconcepts |
quote:
Originally posted by bbiedny
There Seems to be a HUGE Price difference Between the JL Cleansweep and the PAC OEM. Obviously I would prefer to spend less on The PAC, any Input? (pardon the Pun)
I used the PAC unit and didn't have a problem, the only thing I noticed was some engine wining. I added a aftermarket Headunit under the factory one and most went away. The PAC unit works fine. |
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| BikerJohn |
The huge price diference between JL's cleansweep and a PAC unit is because the cleansweep actually does something to your signals where the PAC unit is just a connector integrator. The cleansweep "flattens" your signals coming from the head unit no matter whatever volume you crank it to. All OEM head units tend to fall-off on the bass signal as volume goes up. This is so you won't get too much distortion through the woofers when you crank up your sound. This is also a down-fall if you want to add a little "punch" to your system using aftermarket components.
There is another option. It's called RE-Q. It's a small unit about 3"w X 6"L X 1"h. It acts similar to the cleansweep(but cheaper and less complex) and actually "restores" your base signal as the volume is turned up. It goes into the rear (or anywhere near where your aftermarket amp is going) and on one end it has the "high" line input for Left and Right speakers and also a set for the Sub signal; power line; ground line; and a amp "turn-on" line. At the opposite end it has RCA's out-Left;Right and Sub. There are adjustments for fine-tuning your crossover signals and also for the sub signal.
The RE-Q is "tapped" into the signals coming out from the Bose amp. I use 2 of them; one for the Front and one for the Rear channels. The Rear chl. unit also outputs the signal for my sub. Once the RE-Q is tapped into the Bose amp; the RCA's out go right into your aftermarket amp(s).
You will have to run your power(from the battery) to your new amp. I would also run new speaker wires(at least 16 gauge) to your speakers. Also ground to the body near your amps using the same gauge as your power line used(gauge is dependant on your watts out of your amp). The ground drilled; sanded(down to bare metal) and use self-drilling "TEK" drillpoint bolt. Spray area after connecting with paint or silicone lube to keep rust away. Don't forget to fuse the power line at your battery(within a foot) also.
Running the speaker wires is not too hard to do. The door sill at the bottom comes off pretty easily and you can run your wires under the carpet.
This way; you don't even have to remove your HU at all. It's worked great for me and the sound just rocks.:2: |
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| BikerJohn |
| Here's a close up of the RE-Q unit. It's distributed by MTX. |
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| pat in dfw |
| I have a question for those that have looked at the wiring to the Bose sub - is the sub powered locally at the sub location or passive (power coming from the multichannel Bose amp)? I was thinking about using the JL audio stealthbox (passive which means adding an amp) or the Infinity Basslink (powered) and directly replacing the Bose sub. Suggestons as to which would work best? |
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| xconcepts |
| pat- the sub is powered by the bose multichannel amp. I don't know what the ohm output is for the sub channel so I don't know if you could just replace it. I do not believe so though. |
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| pat in dfw |
| Thanks - that's just what I needed to know. I intend to get another amp anyway to give more power to the sub. Based on what you said I think what I should do is get a hi-level (speaker level) to line level converter and run line level to a sub amp. If I remove the Bose sub I should have enough room to put an amp in the sub location and use the JL audio stealthbox (which goes in the location of some rear storage compartment). If there is enough room for the Infinity Basslink I might go that rough and put the Basslink in the place where the Bose sub is located. This is great information and thanks for the experience of those that have already been this route before. |
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| DMordarski |
Its called a electronic cross over...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=267-766
Put the low levels (steros) into it, 12volt relay kit from the remote in, etablish a new ground and you have a tuneable freq, plus the ability for a +12 db boost to overdrive the amp |
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