| pat in dfw |
I am in the process of upgrading the entire Bose system and I've already done the front speakers. I have bought the PAC AAI-NIS2 adapter to add a XM unit and I am thinking about the best option to buy to interface to a new amp. I have read the threads about the PAC AOEM-NIS2 and the JL Cleansweep and wanted to know what the opinion was of those that have used either of these. There seems to be a difference of opinion.
Krush seems to indicate that the frequency response of teh sub output is nowhere near flat and the cleansweep corrects this while others say they have measured the output at various levels and it is completely flat and that a cleansweep or similiar product is not needed. From what I can tell these products only give 4 outputs and not a separate sub output, correct?
I am also confused about the location of the PAC or cleansweep product. Some have said that it has to be connected behind the head unit, but on the thread http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/...=&threadid=8211 sxmdaniel shows a picture of the cleansweep mounted in the back next to the amp behind the rear seat. Needless to say I am more than a bit confused about where this should be located.
Outside of the cleansweep and PAC adapter for an aftermarket amp is there another alternative that I should consider? I saw a mention of a piece from Audio Control - thoughts and even rambling is appreciated. In closing let me say that I am looking for something that completely integrates with the Murano harness with no cutting of wires. I know that the PAC unit does this, and I read that the cleansweep is NOT model specific and I don't know about the audio control. If the cleansweep is not model specific how do you take the weird wiring harness on the Murano (either at amp location or head unit) and plug it into the cleansweep. It seems like sxmdaniel has figured this out so I will send him a message in addition to asking the question here in this thread in case he is not able to respond. |
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| BikerJohn |
Hi Pat;
I have looked at both JL's cleansweep and the PAC unit. I went with the PAC at that time because of how the cleensweep unit works. The cleansweep does a great job of levelling the sound output especially with the bass frequency.
ALL factory HU's are dialed to lower bass signals as the volume increases. You can really tell as you slowly turn up your volume; the sound has a different characteristic with increased volume at every step.
The way cleansweep works is that it provides at very linear signal ratio all the way up the volume scale.
However; the reason I didn't go with JL is because I didn't like how you have to set your HU's volume at a certain output(say 20 on the vol dial) and leave the HU at that level and then use their own volume dial to turn up or down the sound. Therefore; you shouldn't use your steering or the HU's volume to turn up or down the sound.
The PAC unit does NOT correct the issue with the factory HU output but maintain the ease of connection and the use of steering controls. You may not notice a huge difference without having some sort of a signal correction system.
I do have another alternative(since you asked) to offer. There is a unit called RE-Q. It is a volume sensing bass restoration unit. I have two; one for the front channel and one for the rear channel. It is easy to install in the rear near the Bose amp. You tap your signals from the amp and the RE-Q unit is a 2-chl output plus an output for a sub by means of RCA plugs. Here is a link to some info: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Prod...6870&tab=review
This unit works like a charm; and once you set it up youforgetaboutit:D Mine is located under the cross-member behind the rear seats. |
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| krush40 |
This is what I did
I didn't cut any wires because I made a harness which integrated with the Bose amp plug. Right now I am using an LOC with RCAs but I'm thinkin about hooking the speaker wires into the Imprint directly just to see if theres a difference. It sounds super crisp right now so I may never get around to doing that. Just want to try it for fun to compare. |
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| BikerJohn |
Krush; fantastic job on your install!:29: :29:
Where did you end up purchasing the Imprint signal processor from?
From what I can see; this is how system upgrades will tend to go as far as OEM upgrades will go. There's so much being included into the factory HU that removing them will no longer be an option without heavy mod.
Here's a link to some more info regarding the signal processor:
http://12.4.198.150/S-3UVut6jFSxU/A...ne&i=500PXEH650 |
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| krush40 |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
Krush; fantastic job on your install!:29: :29:
Where did you end up purchasing the Imprint signal processor from?
Thanks.
I found it at a random little stereo shop that pass everyday on my way home from work. Im usually pretty sketchy on buying stuff from the little shops because Ive seen some pretty shady stuff.
This particular shop has been around for like 20 years and the guys actually seemed realy knowledgeable. I ended up getting speakers, Imprint, all PAC stuff, carpet, and speaker terminals from them.
they gave me a good price on all of too. Dont remember exact prices but I know they were under MSRP. |
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| pat in dfw |
After looking around and thinking about what I want I am going to go with the MTX Re-Q unit. I am doing this because it can be mouted at the Bose amp location by plugging the wires going to the amp right into the Re-Q without having to run new RCA cables from the head unit. It even has a remote turnon output for an amp that activates when an audio signal is present so you don't have to run that from the head unit. You can also use the factory radio volume controls so I don't love the steering wheel volume because I use that a LOT while driving.
From reading the specs it isolates the ground so engine noise should not be an issue and it compensates for the bass roll-off from the head unit at higher volumes. MTX has a new unit called the Re-!5 which is a 5 channel unit so one box does everything. If anyone wants to read about it here is the link from the MTX website:
http://www.reqsound.com/support_specs.aspx?p=req5
This is the best price I've found on it so far from my research ($110):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-Q--8309--.html
This seems like the simplest and cleanest "plug and play" type of interface to allow easy replacement of the Bose amp. I hope I find a wiring harness that will plug into the conector going to the Bose amp and break it out into RCA cables to plug into the Re-Q so no cutting of cables or running of new wires will be needed aside from the power cable from the battery. |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by pat in dfw
I hope I find a wiring harness that will plug into the conector going to the Bose amp and break it out into RCA cables to plug into the Re-Q so no cutting of cables or running of new wires will be needed aside from the power cable from the battery.
Pat;
You don't need to run RCA's to the RE-Q from the Bose amp. The RCA's run FROM the RE-Q to your new amp. The RE-Q is connected to the Bose amp by splicing the the wiring harness that comes with the RE-Q system.
The colour-coded wires of the harness splices into the appropriate channels; power and ground then the harness plugs into one side of the RE-Q. The RCA's come out at the other end of the RE-Q and feeds the powered signals to your amp. |
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| BikerJohn |
| Pat; here a photo of the clam-type connector I was describing. The factory wires runs straight through(copper colour in photo) and the wire from the RE-Q unit "butts" into the connector. You don't have to cut or rewire the factory wires. You just need to peel back some of the electrical tape covering them to get access to them. |
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| BikerJohn |
| A closer look at the clam connector....... |
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| BikerJohn |
Pat;
Here's the wire layout for an '03-'05 Bose system without NAV. There are two connectors at the Bose amp; one larger one that is black and a smaller one that is green. Hopefully the diagram is clear enough. |
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| pat in dfw |
| This is great information! I have the rear speakers ordered, I already have the amp in and I'll be placing the order for the Re-Q 5 in the next day or two. I'm going to take pics as I do the install. For a very short term I'm going to use the Bose sub with the amp turned WAY down as I look at options for a sub. My thought now is to go with a custom stealth that I'll built on my own using the JL Audio W3 series driver instead of the somewhat cheap W1 series that JL uses in their stealthbox. Give the box volume of somewhere around 1.0-1.25 cu ft - any other thoughts for a 2 ohm subwoofer that I could use in that size box? |
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| DDunnMO |
| I'm also planning to add a factory sound processor to my system. Does anyone have any feedback on the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.1 or 3IXTY.2? I am sort of shying away from those because of the requirement for a Palm PDA to load and configure. I was leaning toward the JL Cleansweep until learning from Biker John that the steering wheel or factory head unit volume control would no longer be the volume control with this option. That seems to leave the MTX re-Q5 which comes with an auxiliary module which has it's own volume control. Since I have the HK Drive and Play for my iPod could I just bypass using that module? Finally the Alpine Imprint sounds like that would be a good option from what I have read here. Big price difference between the RE-Q5 and Imprint though. Can anyone sum up any more pros/cons based on what I already have in my MO, listed in signature. |
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| pat in dfw |
From reading about the Fosgate I steered away from it because it HAS to be configured using a Palm OS device with bluetooth - which I don't have and don't plan to get. From reading about the Re-Q5 (which I have ordered) the aux input is optional and if you're already using the PAC-AAI NIS you wouldn't need it. The volume control is ONLY for the aux input since you are bypassing the factory head unit if you use it.
The Re-Q5 is the last part that I need then I need to find the time to start working on it. Wish I didn't have to work because this would be a lot more fun. I ended up ordering a JL Audio W3 series sub because it fits for the amp power that I'm going to use. The higher end subs handle more power and would push more air if I had a bigger amp, but they are less efficient so for a 300 watt amp to a 2 ohm load the W3 DVC 4 ohm per VC (2 ohm total) seemed like the best way to go. It is a really heavy and sturdy drive so I'm anxious to build the box and find out how it sounds. |
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| DDunnMO |
| I settled on the Cleansweep, had it installed this past Thursday. Turns out that the volume control that comes with it can be set at pre-determined level and I still continue to use my steering wheel/head unit volume controls as the master volume. I didn't use the auxilary input for the HK Drive & Play, that would have required using the Cleansweep volume knob push button to toggle between aux and other HU functions. So all up front controls remain exactly the same. The difference in the sound is tremendous going from the PAC then the David Navone NE-774V to the Cleansweep. Moving the front speakers' crossovers out of the dash to under the front seats took care of the whine I had before too. Everything now sounds richer, the bass is deeper and the mids and tweets are brighter. I think I am finally happy, at least done spending money on audio... for now! |
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