| Homms'03Murano |
Hello All. I'm a regular reader and poster her in nissanmurano.org. I have a question and I need fellow MO-ers advice and suggestions.
1-I own a 2004 SE AWD. Its great all roound, except one thing. the car feels "heavy" , "lazy", and "lathargic"...It feels like I'm asking her to do too much (which I'm not) and it's refusing to oblige. But I still Love her soo..
This is what I've had done: changed fuel pump, fuel filter (2 of them), servcies nozzles , changed plugs and "serviced" the air-intake or air flow/mass area...still no difference. What am i missing here or what should i try doing?...I know the car it self is Heavy (weight) but c'mon it a 3.5l V6 ....
2- Also, i hear the engine sound louder from the inside, what could that be.
I'd appreciate any usefull ideas/tips/suggestions/recommendations.. anything really that will solve the above problem No. 1.
Thanks in advance. |
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| njjoe |
Homms'03Murano-
Is this something new or has your MO always felt this way?
The CVT enables the VQ to be a slow-revving engine. You really need to apply your foot to bring the revs up and get the MO to respond.
-njjoe |
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| Homms'03Murano |
Njjoe, Well I bought it off someone, so I dont know if has always been like this. I've had it now for 3 months & remember it having this problem a bit but seems it's getting worse.
I realized the slow revving like you said, even in idle but i didnt know that it had anything to do with th CVT. Actually, that's not my worry. My concern is when i accelerate and move along, that's when i feel it heavy, lazy and lathargic. To me, the RPM numbers dont match the speedometer and by extention I dont feel/get the power i think the MO has. I don't know if I'm making sense here. I feel it also when i'm kicking down (down shifting). Hope this helps you in trying to help me, :D |
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| njjoe |
Homms'03Murano-
You are right when you say the RPMS do not match the speedometer. When I first drove a Murano I was bit surprised by that fact and would have been a little concerned if it were not for the fact that I was driving a rental MO.:p
The CVT enables the MO to cruise around at relatively low RPMS for a given speed. You can cruise at 70 MPH at just 2,000 RPM. Not many V-6 cars can do that. Even at slower speeds, as long as you are running at a steady speed the RPMS are low.
When you hit the gas the RPMS will shoot up to the high end of the tach yet the speedometer will climb at a relatively slower pace. That is normal, but it does take some getting use to.
Have you driven other Muranos? If so, do they behave the same as yours?
-njjoe |
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| Homms'03Murano |
Njjoe, Good thing on the Rental Mo...wise !!!:)
No, I haven't driven another MO, maybe I should & i would.
Also, I DID notice the issue of slow rev on constant speeds not exceeding 100km/h....I thot it strange @ first, then i thot to myself "who're you 2 question our engineering (MO guys)".
Your explanations so far has calmed me down a bit, I don't feel ALL alone in my sensations. I was thinking that maybe there's a leakage in the air intake to the engine! Thanks Njjoe. |
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| Kris |
Homms'03Murano
try this: start driving and when you reach let say 60 kph move the shifter to "S" or "DS" position and watch the RPM....and try to push gas pedal a bit.....
You will be smiling....trust me....and won't be complaining about lack of power...;) |
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| Homms'03Murano |
Kris thanks 4 ur respnse. Dude, your input is more of "fast & furious" thing, LOL. I will try it though for the fk of it.
fresh question: what does it mean when you hear a 'pick, pick, pick' sound when u try to accelerate?.... |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
fresh question: what does it mean when you hear a 'pick, pick, pick' sound when u try to accelerate?....
Possibly bad CV joints?
-njjoe |
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| Homms'03Murano |
| Sorry what're the CV!!!!...also that sound i think in my lay-man's understanding is something to do with fuel/oil/air supply to the engine...possible? |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
.
fresh question: what does it mean when you hear a 'pick, pick, pick' sound when u try to accelerate?....
I wonder if that's "pinging" from the anti-knock sensor not working?
CV= "constant velocity" joint. The area concealed by the rubber boots on the drive shaft. |
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| Homms'03Murano |
| thanks for the CV transl. well, I'm not sure about the sensor you mentioned. The sound actually seems to come from the engine compartment (i bet my life on it) and not anything to do with suspension, shatf etc....as i understand it...sounds like when your sedan is showing signs of overheating....you know the car feels it wont move and u hear this "pinging" noise.. also, I asked if anyone know what me hearing the engine sound from inside the card that is louder than it should be.... |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
Sorry what're the CV!!!!...also that sound i think in my lay-man's understanding is something to do with fuel/oil/air supply to the engine...possible?
The CV stands for Constant Velocity. A CV joint is located on both ends of the front half-shafts. The half-shafts are the round metal bars that transmit power from the transmission to the front wheels. They will make a clicking sound, usually with the wheels turned hard right or left, when they are worn and in need or replacement.
The "pick, pick, pick" sound may be just the fuel injectors firing off. I can hear it standing outside my MO, but cannot hear it inside with the windows rolled up.
-njjoe |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
The sound actually seems to come from the engine compartment (i bet my life on it) and not anything to do with suspension, shatf etc....as i understand it...sounds like when your sedan is showing signs of overheating....you know the car feels it wont move and u hear this "pinging" noise.. also, I asked if anyone know what me hearing the engine sound from inside the card that is louder than it should be....
Does the sound only occur as you try to accelerate? |
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| Homms'03Murano |
Njjoe: thanks for ur detailed explanation of the CV. I'll have my mechanic (while i'm with him, your explanation IN HAND) on monday.
Bikerjohn: YES, while i accelerate and as i move sloping upwards and only for seconds. in both cases, (accelerating & climbimg) the sounds comes up and if i ease off the gas pedal for an instant it goes away and comes back when i put my foot on the pedal to increase speed. the sounds kinda tells me "EASE OFF MAN"!!. Honestly, you people in this forum are GREAT!...between all you experienced memebers & some new ones, we can build us OUR own MO without all the kinks (no TSBs and OBDs needed). |
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| Homms'03Murano |
| LOL, DAMN...THE 1ST SENTENCE WAS INCOMPLETE...I meant I'll have my mechanic CHECK IT OUT (cv)...PHEWW! |
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| BikerJohn |
It sure sounds like the Anti-Knock sensor is not working.
The MO engine can run on regular gas to high octane gas. The Anti knock sensor adjusts the timing to retard or advance your time depending on the fuel that's used.
Njjoe, Kris; could a non-working Anti Knock sensor give Homms the feeling of sluggishness when he's driving it?
Homms; I don't know how low on fuel you are but I suppose that if you filled up with high-octane fuel; you can see if the pingging will go away...??? |
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| Homms'03Murano |
BikerJohn: I never let the fuel level go below the quarter mark. I live in Nigeria, so there is no way to determine if the fuel is High Octane but I buy only from the most reliable petrol station (AP overhere) but i still hear this pinging noise. Refere to my earlier post when i mentioned about the kicking-down (down-shifting), that's when the sound is more pronounced.
Also, being a serious novice when it comes to cars, a pic or diagram of how the Anti-Knock sensor might help. thanks. |
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| Lightninrod |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
Njjoe: thanks for ur detailed explanation of the CV. I'll have my mechanic (while i'm with him, your explanation IN HAND) on monday.
Bikerjohn: YES, while i accelerate and as i move sloping upwards and only for seconds. in both cases, (accelerating & climbimg) the sounds comes up and if i ease off the gas pedal for an instant it goes away and comes back when i put my foot on the pedal to increase speed. the sounds kinda tells me "EASE OFF MAN"!!. Honestly, you people in this forum are GREAT!...between all you experienced memebers & some new ones, we can build us OUR own MO without all the kinks (no TSBs and OBDs needed).
Bad gas...? Too low of an octane rating and/or carbon buildup in side the cylinder head, on the valves, and/or on top of the pistons? |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by Homms'03Murano
BikerJohn: I never let the fuel level go below the quarter mark. I live in Nigeria, so there is no way to determine if the fuel is High Octane but I buy only from the most reliable petrol station (AP overhere) but i still hear this pinging noise. Refere to my earlier post when i mentioned about the kicking-down (down-shifting), that's when the sound is more pronounced.
Also, being a serious novice when it comes to cars, a pic or diagram of how the Anti-Knock sensor might help. thanks.
I was just thinking if you were low on gas you could fill up with a higher octane gas to see if the helps with the noise.....
The Anti Knock sensor is actually located on the engine block below the intake manifold(from what I can see on the service manual) and is mounted directly to the block.
Service manual description: "The knock sensor is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine
knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from
the cylinder block is sensed as vibrational pressure. This pressure is
converted into a voltage signal and sent to the ECM."
It would also appear that if the Knock sensor is malfunctioning; it will leave a DTC-Diagnostic Trouble Code but it does not light up the MIL-malfunction indicator light.
The code is P0327 (Knock sensor circuit low input) and P0328(circuit high input).
Would your mechanic be able to perform a diagnostics to pull codes from your MO using an OBD(on board diagnostic) reader?
This may or may not be the problem you are experiencing; but just food for thought..... |
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| njjoe |
Homms'03Murano-
BikerJohn may be on to something. After reading your post about your limited gasoline choices, it is very possible you may be feeding your MO gasoline that has an octane rating below the operating threshold of the knock sensor. The engine's computer cannot sufficiently retard the ignition timing and the engine is experiencing detonation under load. That would be the pinging sound you are hearing. Detonation (pinging) has a very distinct sound. It almost sounds as if stones are be rattled in a can under the hood. Is that what you are hearing?
-njjoe |
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| WrenchGremlin |
I had a knock sensor issue, well actually the knock sensor was ok, it ended up being the wiring sub harness which is about 15" long and connects to the sensor. My Murano was very sluggish and even though the RPM's were high, no power was being made. This went on for months before tripping a diagnostic code. The replacement wiring was about $110 + $60 for gaskets. I did the work myself so I can't tell you how much the dealer would charge but its a several hour project.
Now one thing I didn't have was pinging or knocking, which makes me wonder if it is the quality of fuel you are putting in the tank.
Hope that helps - WG |
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| Homms'03Murano |
BikerJohn: I get what you are saying. but see i cant choose the type of petrol here, it one and we call it FUEL, LOL. The only thing i can control is the addition of, maybe fuel injector cleaners etc while i'm topping up. Thanks a bunch for the 2 codes you fished out. Yes, my mechanic can diagnose with an OBD reader. Funny enough, the last time i did a diagnosis (he had the one that is limited to Emissions) and he came up with P1031 & p1148 & they're having to do with air/fuel ratios. What I'm experiencing and hearing is PRECISELY described in this link (which, by the way, i stumbled on before i logged on here tonight and saw the other posts)....http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/PI.HTM#Pinging
pls check it out, thx.
Njjoe & "the Wrench": You guys are on the money...also check out the link above pls after which I'd love some tips and suggestions..
Once Thanks a BUNCH!!!... |
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| Hilbe |
You might consider doing an ECU reset. I'm thinking your car my have "learned" some bad settings and need a reboot to relearn how you drive it as opposed to the person before you.
If you don't like the slow revving get a light weight pulley. The company Unorthodox Racing (available on many sites online, including eBay) makes both a light weight pulley and an underdrive pulley. Cosmo Racing (http://www.cosmoracing.com) has a light weight underdrive crank pulley that is a lot cheaper at $75 shipped. Both of these will make the car rev a lot quicker. I've been debating getting one myself, but I'm still in warranty with only 28k miles on my 2004.
I'm going to let someone flame me now for these 2 ideas, njjoe go ahead ;) |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by Hilbe
If you don't like the slow revving get a light weight pulley.
I'm going to let someone flame me now for these 2 ideas, njjoe go ahead ;)
H-
Am I really that predictable?? :D
-njjoe |
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| Kris |
quote:
Originally posted by Hilbe
......... Both of these will make the car rev a lot quicker. I've been debating getting one myself, but I'm still in warranty with only 28k miles on my 2004.
I'm going to let someone flame me now for these 2 ideas, njjoe go ahead ;)
Hilbe, with all due respect - this is an urban myth....if you want engine revs faster just floor it! Or switch to S- mode.....
The light weight pulley may give you some gains but only if you are racing and pushing car and the engine to the limit! In normal driving you would not feel it.......oops! You would......power steering would have less boost, battery? Hm, just wonder how the slower reving alternator would do......
I believe Homms'03Murano problem is related not to one issue. It is possible that the root cause is the bad gas.....it could have affected many components....but we are all speculating here.... |
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| WrenchGremlin |
If your handy with a multi-meter you can do a check yourself to see if the knock sensor is good.
1. Turn off ignition
2. Disconnect ECM Wiring harness located behind glove box.
3. Check resistance on Pin 15 of ECM Wiring harness to engine ground. Resistance range should be approx: 532-588 k ohm at 20c (68 f). You will need an ohmmeter which can measure more than 10 M ohm for this test.
4. If resistance out of range, check for short to ground, short to power or open circuit. If it fails the range in #3 then I'll post more instructions. |
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| Hilbe |
quote:
Originally posted by Kris
Hilbe, with all due respect - this is an urban myth....if you want engine revs faster just floor it! Or switch to S- mode.....
The light weight pulley may give you some gains but only if you are racing and pushing car and the engine to the limit! In normal driving you would not feel it.......oops! You would......power steering would have less boost, battery? Hm, just wonder how the slower reving alternator would do......
I believe Homms'03Murano problem is related not to one issue. It is possible that the root cause is the bad gas.....it could have affected many components....but we are all speculating here....
The Murano Cosmo Racing pulley only underdrives the Power Steering. The Unorthodox Racing stock size one doesn't underdrive anything at all. When I put the same exact pulley on my Maxima I immediately noticed a difference in it revving quicker. I was just suggesting it to him since he was asking how to make it rev quicker... |
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| Eric L. |
While adding lightweight mods probably adds some performance improvement, I am not convinced it is appropriate for the Murano given that the CVT saps so much of the performance away anyways.
Regarding the main issue of the thread, it is clear there is a fuel issue, but I don't think we can pin it down to a bad knock sensor yet - it could be a variety of things like a MAF sensor sending out bad signals, or any number of malfunctions related to the various vacuum accessories which control emissions and intake for the engine. Reading the OBDII codes is a good start but I think just throwing parts at the problem won't solve it without a huge unnecessary expense. |
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| Rcimp |
| I had this problem with my 04 Mo and the rubber connector for the air intake came loose at the throttle body allowing unmeetered air to get sucked in. My Mo was alsmost gutless when you would step on it but normal driving it was ok. Now it runs great. |
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