| bsw50 |
Hey guys,
I just purchased an 05 Murano SE as a family car. I'm not sure if all SEs are non-Bose, but this one is a single-CD non-Bose system. Being the audio nut that I am, I can't leave the stock system like it is. My goal is to upgrade all speakers and connect them to their own amp, then add probably a single 8" or 10" ported sub in the back with its own amp. I'd like to retain the stock deck for reasons that are probably obvious. I've done some searching on this forum but I can't find a lot of info on the non-Bose system. I'm not sure how much my non-Bose system varies from the Bose and how that may affect my choices here. So I have a few questions for you guys.
1) What is the speaker size all around? I've read about the stockers being 6.5" but are mounted to a baffle that is mounted to a 6x9" hole. I've also read about the dash speakers just being tweeters which seems kinda odd considering the size of the grills up there.
2) What method should I use to add component and subwoofer amps to the stock head unit, trying to maintain good sound quality but keeping cost reasonable? I've used the $20 line-level converters that convert speaker-level outputs to line-level inputs for subwoofer installs. They were easy and cheap but I notice the drop in sound quality to the woofer - I can only imagine how it would hurt the sound of mids and highs. Maybe the RE-Q is the best option here? This is assuming the stock head unit has no RCA-outs. Even then I may need sound processing and/or equalizing units.
3) If I wanted to add iPod hookup, will the PAC AAI-NIS2 module plus RCA->headphone jack cable be sufficient? I'm not looking to spend $200+ on the module that will integrate the iPod with the dash LCD.
Thanks in advance! |
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| bsw50 |
I've done more searching and it seems like every non-Bose thread turns into a discussion of the Bose units.
I went the PAC's website to search for a unit specific to my non-Bose 2005 Murano and it directed me to the unit that's advertised for the 95-06 systems with Bose, the AOEM-NIS2. So that confuses me a little.
I've also read about the Bose head units cutting low frequencies at high volumes but nobody seems to know if the non-Bose units do this. So I don't know if I even want the PAC module because the amps I'm adding should be receiving a flat, clean signal. At this point the RE-Q seems to be the safer option but I've never seen one of these used in an install. And again, I wonder how the sound quality will be affected with my head unit cutting out certain frequencies, the RE-Q trying to add certain frequencies back in, and my component/subwoofer amps trying to filter out different frequencies. I also think its strange how the RE-Q unit has separate gain knobs for the left/right RCA outs.... the single pair should receive the same signal with the same strength on each side by default. Does anyone have experience with these RE-Q units? |
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| BikerJohn |
I'm not sure if the Non-Bose HU is also made by Clarion; the Bose system is a Clarion unit. It does put out a decent sound.
As far as I know from talking to audio folks; ALL OEM HU's adjust the low frequencies so that bass destrotion is not prominent at loud volume.
I have 2 RE-Q units installed in my '03 MO and love them. I have 2 because there was not a 5-chl. unit when I did my install.
The RE-Q is a Bass Restoration Unit. As the HU's volume is increased; the bass signals decrease(at the HU because it's wired that way). The RE-Q restores the bass signal creating a flatter and cleaner signal than without one. That is the signal that will go to your aftermarket amp(s) by means of RCA's. Instructions come with the RE-Q unit as to the order in which the gains; low-pass filter; high-pass filters and the amp filters should be adjusted.
Since I had the Bose system; my units are installed in the trunk area and I have picked up my signals from the high "lines" coming from the HU to the amp so that I don't need to run RCA's all the way back.
You might do the same since 18 GA. wire is cheaper than running RCA's the same length. If you mount your R/Q at the trunk; run your Channel wires to the head unit and "splice" into the speaker wires for the appropriate channels using a "clam-type" connector shown below. Here's their website : http://www.reqsound.com/home.aspx
I love my RE-Q and will go with me to whatever I drive next :D |
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| njjoe |
bsw50-
Welcome to the forum.
The SE's came with the non-Bose radio as part of the standard package. The Bose radio was part of the upgraded Premium Package.
Many members have upgraded their MO's audio system. Unfortunately, as you have found, it is not as simple as just replacing the head-unit.
I believe the non-Bose door speakers are oval, while the BOSE speakers are round.
The dash-mounted speakers are just tweeters.
Good luck with the project.
-njjoe |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
I'm not sure if the Non-Bose HU is also made by Clarion; the Bose system is a Clarion unit.
BJ-
Yes, the non-BOSE unit is manufactured by Clarion. I just had mine replaced two weeks ago and was told by the parts-guy that the units are built by Clarion and the defective units are returned to Clarion to be refurbed.
-njjoe |
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| BikerJohn |
| njjoe is right about the speakers; the front doors are 6X9's but the rear doors have the 6.5" rounds. The dash speakers are just small tweeters on the Bose systems. I'm not too sure what came with the standard system. It's pretty easy to "pop" off the grill/mesh. Use a butter knife wrapped in a cloth and gently pry up from between the mesh and dash. The vent port within the grill will come out at the same time; but I found it easier to remove it before re-installing the mesh then the vent last. |
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| bsw50 |
Thanks for the info guys. I will go ahead and double check what is in the dash since it should be easy enough. I think I'll make a baffle to fit 6.5s up front to keep front/back imaging the same and because I'd rather have a single round driver for better midbass anyway.
I feel more confident about the RE-Q now. Still have a couple of questions about how it works. What all speaker outputs should I use as input for the unit? Should I take 4 pairs of speaker inputs(frontright/frontleft/backright/backleft) and use them as inputs or is it just as fine to only splice off my left rear speaker and send that as input to my amp that will power all the speakers?
Am I also correct in thinking the left/right RCA outputs on the RE-Q unit will be used as 1 RCA pair that I will send to my 4 channel mid/high amp? This amp will power a pair of 4 ohm 6.5" coaxials in the rear doors and a 6.5" front component set with tweeters that will also run at 4 ohm per channel. It is just throwing me off how they have RCA outputs for left and right with a gain on each one. I've always seen the gain set for the pair as a whole. |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by bsw50
Thanks for the info guys. I will go ahead and double check what is in the dash since it should be easy enough.
The SE and SL models have dash-mounted tweeters, regardless of which audio system is installed.
I have attached a photo of the mounted tweeter. BikerJohn, do you recognize the photo? It's yours from the gallery.
-njjoe |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by bsw50
What all speaker outputs should I use as input for the unit? Should I take 4 pairs of speaker inputs(frontright/frontleft/backright/backleft) and use them as inputs or is it just as fine to only splice off my left rear speaker and send that as input to my amp that will power all the speakers?
Am I also correct in thinking the left/right RCA outputs on the RE-Q unit will be used as 1 RCA pair that I will send to my 4 channel mid/high amp? This amp will power a pair of 4 ohm 6.5" coaxials in the rear doors and a 6.5" front component set with tweeters that will also run at 4 ohm per channel. It is just throwing me off how they have RCA outputs for left and right with a gain on each one. I've always seen the gain set for the pair as a whole.
Your choice of input lines will depend on if you are going to use the 5-Chl or 3-Chl R/Q.
How many Channels do you have on your amp? Sorry; I missed that you have a 4-Chl amp.....
I would highly recommend using at least your left and right speaker input so that you will have "stereo" and all four (if using a 4-chl amp) so that you can also control fade.
You don't even have to pull your deck to hook up the R/Q. Your wires from the R/Q can go right to the speaker wires at each door and splice there when you install your speakers.
If you use only 1 of the 2/3-Chl RE-Q; take either your front OR rear LEFT and RIGHT signals into your re-q. From there; use a Y-RCA adapter to split the 2-chls into 4-chls where it will then feed into your 4-chl amp. You will loose the FADE option(front to rear control) but will at least have your stereo sound. You can always adjust the Front to Rear sound level using your amp's gain controls. The L and R gain control on the re-q just allows for "tuning-in" the imaging location in your vehicle. My recommendation would be to get the 5-Chl re-q.
njjoe; Yes; that does look familiar. It looks like this now with a 4" coaxle; it grew some :D |
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| bsw50 |
Ok I think I'm starting to understand how the RE-Q units work now!
So on the 3 channel model, will I only be able to hook up 2 speaker outputs(rear left, rear right) instead of all 4 corners? I see exactly what you mean when hooking up the RCA Y-adapters to split it from 2 channels to 4 for my amp. The 5 channel RE-Q is about $130 whereas the 3 channel model will be $90... I don't think its worth an extra $40 to have explicit front/rear fade control on the fly.
Also, I'd like to verify that I won't need any kind of sub output going into the 3 channel RE-Q. The rear left/right speaker outputs going into the RE-Q will allow me to use all 3 RCA outputs of the RE-Q? |
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| BikerJohn |
If you use the 3-chl; you can decide to use the rear L and R wires. For the sub wiring; you can use either a + from the L and a - from the R at the rear or just patch the L's + & - from the rear. The sub chl will filter out all but the sub frequency so it really doesn't matter.
I think you're on your way;) |
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| BikerJohn |
| Here's the wiring you can go with...... |
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| bsw50 |
Thanks for the info BikerJohn. I'm not quite sure if you're supposed to use the different polarities from L and R speakers for the sub input. It seems like that would throw off the impedence on each side. MTX's manual says to not use the brown wires on the RE-Q if you don't have a factory subwoofer line. But I don't know if they're saying you can't add a subwoofer line if you don't have a factory subwoofer or what. I also read somewhere that if you don't use the RE-Q's subwoofer input, the unit will take the signal from the L and R inputs and use that as output for your subwoofer amp if you connect one. But there's no good documentation on this stuff, even the manual isn't clear on that.
Have you wired the RE-Q like that and do you know if the subwoofer output is dead if you connect the L and R inputs but not the subwoofer input? |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by bsw50
Thanks for the info BikerJohn. I'm not quite sure if you're supposed to use the different polarities from L and R speakers for the sub input. It seems like that would throw off the impedence on each side. MTX's manual says to not use the brown wires on the RE-Q if you don't have a factory subwoofer line. But I don't know if they're saying you can't add a subwoofer line if you don't have a factory subwoofer or what. I also read somewhere that if you don't use the RE-Q's subwoofer input, the unit will take the signal from the L and R inputs and use that as output for your subwoofer amp if you connect one. But there's no good documentation on this stuff, even the manual isn't clear on that.
Have you wired the RE-Q like that and do you know if the subwoofer output is dead if you connect the L and R inputs but not the subwoofer input?
That's a good question. I didn't wire it that way since I had a signal line for my factory sub. The one to contact regarding if there is any signal on the sub output would be this guy here:
Nick Lo Monaco
Mobile Accessories Sales and Support Manager
Mitek Corporation
4545 E. Baseline Road
Phoenix, AZ 85042
Phone: 800-965-3501
E-mail: nick.lomonaco@mitekcorp.com
He's the contact I had regarding some questions on my unit. Try dropping him a line to see about your question here. |
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