| gatr09 |
My ‘03 MO has 93K miles on it and has never had the rotors replaced…as far as I could tell anyway. I bought it in ‘05 used with 45K miles from a Nissan Dealer and I know I have never had them replaced.
I want to change the front rotors because there carry a significant amount of corrosion/scoring and I fear they might be warped, causing vibrations that I can hear and feel in my feet.
I have had my tires balanced properly on a Hunter GSP9700 Road Force Measurement System, so I do not think that is the cause of the vibrations, which have become pretty loud now. The rear rotors do not have anywhere near the amount of corrosion or scoring as the front rotors, so I think I’m OK there.
I've recently changed the brake pads myself so I’m familiar with the area.
My question is…... is the process simple?
From what I gather, isn’t this the basic process? See Pic and step-by-step below…
-Remove the caliper
-Remove the pin
-Remove the main nut on the axle
-Slide off the rotor
-Lube
-Install new rotor
Having changed the rotors on a Civic a couple years back, the process was not difficult. Can I expect the same with the MO?
Side note -
The noise and vibration also gave me a fear that it was a CVT issue, but I doubt that is the case since I had a problem with that almost two years ago where it sounded and felt as if I had a flat tire and the front end was going to disintegrate, causing me to pull over. This sound/vibration is NO where near as severe.
So since I don’t trust any dealer, or many mechanics for that matter, I’m trying to trouble shoot the problem myself.
The vibrating sound and feel does not appear until I hit 10-15 mph. And when I hit the brakes, I get a rocking/interrupted deceleration (not a terrible one, but noticable) rather than a smooth stop…and as I said, I have all new brake pads.
A lot of questions I know, but ANY thoughts would be appreciated?
:D |
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| shelland |
| I haven't touched the MO, but changed pads and rotors on our Vibe last fall. Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I don't even think you have to remove that pin or nut. I believe the hole in the rotor fits around them. (but I'm no great mechanical mind - I could have a bad memory) |
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| DMordarski |
| no removal of the pin or the nut, there attached to the hub... remove the two bolt holding the caliper to the caliper cradle. remove the two bolts that hold the caliper cradle to the steering knuckle, the rotor will then slide off |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by DMordarski
no removal of the pin or the nut, there attached to the hub... remove the two bolt holding the caliper to the caliper cradle. remove the two bolts that hold the caliper cradle to the steering knuckle, the rotor will then slide off
Is this it?
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| DMordarski |
| that would be correct |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by DMordarski
that would be correct
Sweet! Thanks! |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by gatr09
Is this it?
You don't need to remove the #1 bolts; just the two #2 bolts that attaches your caliper assembly to the front controllers.
Have a coat-hanger in hand to tie up your calipers to the springs or somewhere else so that the caliper assembly won't tug too much on the hydro-line.
Your rotor then will come right off. |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
You don't need to remove the #1 bolts; just the two #2 bolts that attaches your caliper assembly to the front controllers.
Have a coat-hanger in hand to tie up your calipers to the springs or somewhere else so that the caliper assembly won't tug too much on the hydro-line.
Your rotor then will come right off.
THANKS EVERYONE!
Did the job this past Saturday. It came off just as you described. Well, almost.....had to use an entire can of WD-40 and PB Blaster on one friggin bolt because the rust on it had all but fused the caliper assembly to the front controller. Almost two hours on one friggin bolt.
Oh well, job's done. Problem solved. Now I'm just getting used to my MO's new stopping power. |
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| augustus |
| Did changing the rotors solve your vibration problem? |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by augustus
Did changing the rotors solve your vibration problem?
No, not all of it but it got a hell of a lot better!
It's no where near as violent and loud as it was before I replaced the rotors.
I have an appointment to get my tires balanced this Thursday with a Hunter Road Force Measurement System at my local Nissan Stealer.
Hopefully that will do the trick! |
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| BikerJohn |
It sounds like your brakes were not the cause for the vibration. Normally when you brake with warped rotors; you would feel the vibration then and smoother while driving.
In your case; it's almost the opposite. The feeling you were getting while braking sounds like the rotor has some thick and thin spots or glazed area(from hard braking) along the rotor.
Balancing as you mention would be your next step. Good luck with that....
BTW- gently use the brakes until the pads and rotors are seated and broken in.:4: |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
It sounds like your brakes were not the cause for the vibration.....
You were right BikerJohn.
According to Ardmore Nissan, it turns out the cause of the vibrations are the Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly. They need to be replaced.
The good news is that they are covered by my extended warranty, which runs out at 97,600 miles or Sept. 2009… I’m currently at 93,600 miles…close one.
Also, the leak that I thought was coming from my Transfer Case, is actually coming from the Transmission Oil Cooler, also covered by the warranty.
Anyway, I’m heading over to pick up my MO today. I have to wait for the parts to come in and I can’t be without my ride. I’ll let you all know what happens after they install ‘em.
Wish me luck. |
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