| Brewman2 |
Hi to all
About ready to replace all four brakes and rotors.. This is great that you took the time to have pic's in DIY thread.
I'm replacing the original rotors with drilled rotors.. I hope that the holes will improve cooling.. Like the rest, my back brakes seem to be starting to squeal.. 05 Mo with 65K.. Fronts have slight brake wobble at steep highspeed freeway downhill. Only time it happens..
Rotors look like "free floating" should be able to rotate claliper and remove.. Must remember to release the parking brake, so I can remove the back rotors..
Going to use Ceramic pads from Autozone.. Not always sure about Quality with AZ
If anyone has something I'm missing, please respond.. |
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| mgthe3 |
I would think twice about drilled rotors; they have a bad reputation for cracking at the holes.
Slotted (not completely through) maybe, but not drilled.
Sure, race cars run them, but my bro inlaw's team changed them out after every IMSA race, sometimes during the race....
Check out cryo treated rotors, much better. |
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| Brewman2 |
Thanks for your concern
I've spent months going back and forth about drilled, slotted, both, and stock rotors. I've looked into the challenges that all could have. I've read about cracking around the unchamphered holes, how slotted rotors will shave the pads, one is better than the other, ect.
Most high performance, high end autos (Mercedes, Ferarri, BMW) use drilled rotors. I can't think of any sport bike that doesn't use drilled rotors, even some have "wave rotors". Both my bikes have drilled rotors, one is a cruiser, the other a large sport bike. Ya I know, the Mo is a far cry from a sport bike..
I don't expect to be throwin the Mo around the track at high speeds, doing heavy braking before the corner. I also bought champhered holed rotors, which will relieve some of the stress. Drilled through the vents and not too many holes...
If I find that this is not quiet what I had hoped for, well then I'll let you all know, and chalk it up for experience..
I do appreciate the feed back..
Cameron |
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| BikerJohn |
| I've had no problems with factory OEM rotors and brake pads. Works like a charm for me. I even pull a 2000 lbs. trailer around town and on the highway with no problems stopping.:4: |
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| Kris |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
I've had no problems with factory OEM rotors and brake pads. Works like a charm for me. I even pull a 2000 lbs. trailer around town and on the highway with no problems stopping.:4:
But you know, these are the OEM's......they cannot be good....;)
Aftermarket are always, better..
or are they? Nope, OEM's all the way! :D |
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| hfelknor |
Let us know what you pay for those OEM pads.
Homer |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by hfelknor
Let us know what you pay for those OEM pads.
Homer
The cost of stopping when in need.............Priceless:2: :2: |
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| Brewman2 |
Alrightty then
Completed the task at hand..Started at 10:00 am, finished at 1:45 pm.. Just in time to get to work.
Thanks for the info on getting the rear brakes disks off..(different thread) Just a little time with Maint manual, pentetrating oil, and tapping with a plastic mallet..
Pads from Auto Zone $39.00 fronts $30.00 rears both ceramic..
Drilled rotors $30.00 each + $55.00 s&h.... Total $177.00 e-bay
OEM rotors I took off look fine, and I'll take them in to turn, If I have a problem with the drilled rotors, I'll have the old ones to put back on..
I'll give an update on condition/performance after a while
Thanks for the input
Cameron
I'm glad we have these web sites.. It makes things much easier.. |
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