| 2007Murano |
If i run a sub (Infinity Basslink) off the rear speakers for signal - how much sound will i lose?
I mean will it suck much power from the Bose amp?
i'm thinking when i disconnect the Bose sub i will have more power for the rest of the speakers which will be better for sound quality - but am wondering how much the new sub will take away.
thanks :) |
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| BikerJohn |
How about if you tap your Basslink signals from the lines that ran to your Bose Sub since your removing it anyway?
It won't make that much difference to the rest of the speakers if you do so.
The Bose sub connector has 4 lines going in the plug. It has a L- L+ R- and R+.
You will just need to pick up on 1+ and 1-. |
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| special-k |
I would use BOTH channels from the Bose sub.
The Basslink (at least the ones I've seen) have plenty of inputs on them.
The Bose sub is actually two small speakers inside the enclosure -- technically a right and left channel.
Depending on how the music is mixed, you MAY get more or less bass in one channel vs. the other.
I would HIGHLY doubt the Bose amp supports bridging, so I wouldn't even try it because you'll probably cook your amp.
Just take the two channels (4 wires) that currently go to the Bose sub (R+, R-, L+, L-) and put them into the "rear" inputs on the Basslink.
The Basslink is self-powered so I wouldn't worry about it drawing a bunch of power off the Bose amp. |
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| SliderJeff |
Are you running a new power wire from the battery through the firewall and then back to where your Basslink will reside? If not, are you planning on somehow tapping the power going into the Bose amp to power the Basslink?
Regs,
Jeff |
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| BikerJohn |
I'm not exactly too sure how Bose wired the sub but there is only 1 4" woofer inside that enclosure. I've pulled it appart one day(board I guess) to see what and how it was engineered. I was surprise to see this little paper cone and magnet.
Anyhow; if the Basslink does have input lines for left and right I would go ahead and use all four like special-k mentions. |
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| 2007Murano |
I was told that i need to run a power wire from the battery to the basslink - basically need an amp kit for it - is this true? I was thinking the same thing of being able to run it off the bose sub - which wires are which though?
I also have a second option of running a 12" 'free air' Pioneer IMPP sub i have sitting in the basement, but in a sealed box with an amp?
Could i also run this setup off the bose sub wires as above?
I'm thinking the 12" would give me better sound?
thanks to all :) |
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| BikerJohn |
Definatley run a power line from the battery to your amp. A sub takes in a lot of juice from the amp. You may want to get yourself an amp kit from Best Buy or FS. The kit will come with proper gauge power line (4 ga. or 6 ga. wire) depending on the Watt rating of the amp; an in-line fuse(again rated for the amp) and a few other connectors you may need.
Do you have Bose w/Nav or without? This will determine the wiring layout.
BTW-Where in Ontario are you? |
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| 2007Murano |
The quoting i've been getting is from FS - great pricing for installs.
They recommend an 8g kit for the Basslink - and i think will suffice if i go the 12" route with a 300watt amp.
I have the Bose without the Nav.
I'm in Waterloo - about 45min. west of T.O. |
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| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
I'm not exactly too sure how Bose wired the sub but there is only 1 4" woofer inside that enclosure.
You're right -- I misspoke. It's not two actual physical separate speakers, it's a dual voice coil driver. In effect, it's 2 speakers in one. That's why there are both R and L wires that go to it. The R+ and R- go to one voice coil, the L+ and L- to the other. |
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| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by 2007Murano
The quoting i've been getting is from FS - great pricing for installs.
They recommend an 8g kit for the Basslink - and i think will suffice if i go the 12" route with a 300watt amp.
I think you'll be fine with 8 ga. for either option. No sense in running a gigantic power cable for one relatively small amp. Just make sure you fuse it sufficiently.
My opinion is that you would probably get comparable sound from the 12" sub in a box. The advantage to the Basslink is that it's self-amplifed (no worries about mounting an amp), and the box is sealed and tuned at the factory. If you slap a sub in a random box, you can't really be sure how it's going to sound. I've read good reviews of the Basslink. It's not going to win you any contests, but people seem to think it provides pretty good-sounding bass without being overtly "in-your-face". |
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| BikerJohn |
| The other good thing about the Basslink is that you can put it in and take it out as you need it. You will also be able to "balance" it to your front and rear speakers as not to overpower the overall sound. |
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| 2007Murano |
I've been leaning towards the Basslink as well. One concern in have about it is the treated paper cone woofer - will be durable and work well in cold and humid weather?
I do like the idea of wiring it through the bose sub wires instead of the rear door speakers.
thanks
:) |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by 2007Murano
I've been leaning towards the Basslink as well. One concern in have about it is the treated paper cone woofer - will be durable and work well in cold and humid weather?
I do like the idea of wiring it through the bose sub wires instead of the rear door speakers.
:)
I would think that the cone won't be effected by our cold and humidity. Most of the abuse will be in and around the rubber perimeter and voice coil area.
I've included the wiring colour codes for a Bose without Nav.
There are no Sub wiring going INTO the Bose AMP. The AMP takes in only Front and Rear "signals" from the HU into the amp then separates the OUTPUT to the proper channels including ones for the SUB.
So if you tap into the Sub lines; you are tapping into POST-AMPed signals.
I would recommend tapping into the REAR speaker lines BEFORE the amp for a cleaner signal. |
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| 2007Murano |
Ok, i'm a little concerned about how much sound (volume & quality) i will lose from the rear speakers?
thanks for the diagrams. :) |
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| BikerJohn |
You won't loose any sound volume. You are just tapping into the signal side coming from the HU into the amp.
That signal will still be carried into your Bose amp to be processed and the output will remain the same.
Your FS installer (if you have them do it) will do all that for you.
I was going to recommend Jamie in Oakville's FS store if you were close by. He's a great sound guy/installer and knows his stuff. I'm sure your guy there will also do a great job for you too. |
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| 2007Murano |
They do seem to know their stuff at the local FS as well. I will show and explain the diagram to him just in case.
So just to confirm - the Bose amp is under the carpet under the passenger seat? And this is where they will tap into the speaker lines?
thanks |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by 2007Murano
So just to confirm - the Bose amp is under the carpet under the passenger seat? And this is where they will tap into the speaker lines?
thanks
The amp is under the rear seat-passenger side. You can access it from the spare tire area. If you show them the amp; they will use that since it's the easiest to access for them. |
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| 2007Murano |
I will - thanks so much for your help! :)
May i ask another question? would a 3 way coaxial speaker require more power to run than a 2 way?
Reason i ask is i want to also replace the rear door speakers with Kappas. The salesman from wooferetc.com told me they have some 3 way Kappas (6.5") on sale and would sound better since there is an extra tweeter in them. I am concerned that the stock amp will not have enough power to run a 3 way speaker?
thanks again |
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| BikerJohn |
I won't think that it would make that much of a difference. It would be good if you can hear the difference at the store between the two speakers to see if you like one sound over the other.
Personally; I don't like too much of the "mid-level" voice in my tweeters. I prefer more of the silky "highs" given off from a silk-dome tweeters. Just a presonal thing.
You will know if the savings are worth it when you listen to them(if possible).
I do also believe you adjust the Kappa's dB output on the tweeters to "tune" the sound. Your tech should be able to help you with that.
Good luck and keep us posted. |
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