| Dookie |
Well guys...it's all done. I might get one more component for it, which is the Phoenix Gold Bass Cube. Since my box is tuned at 38hz and the MTX 801D doesn't have a subsonic filter, I think the Bass Cube is the best bet, let alone the ability it has to dial in up to 15db of bass boost at YOUR systems best sounding frequency.
Anyway, if you look at Part I, you'll see a chrome Stinger 1 Farad cap next to the MTX 801D. In these pics, you'll see an Alumapro 5 Farad Cap instead. (Lights were still dimming with the 1 farad cap) The 5 farad seems to help the system in terms of puchier bass and brighter highs as well. I'm sure its part of the sustained voltage levels now.
Subs: Dual 2-ohm voice coil Kicker CompVR
Front: Infinity Kappa 6 1/2" Component Set
Rear: Infinity Kappa 6 1/2" co-axial
Like I was saying before, if I want to, I can return this whole system back to stock because I DIDN'T CUT A SINGLE WIRE IN THE HARNESS. Pac-Audio makes an interface to use with a factory radio and it has 4-channel RCA outputs, along with independent level controls for each channel. It also has a ground loop isolator and allows for use of common ground systems with floating ground head units. To me, the sound quality is very nice; much better than I expected. Pics to follow... |
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| Dookie |
| Front Component Woofer, with Dynamat Extreme on the panel it is mounted on... |
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| Dookie |
| Tweeter mounted in stock tweeter location.... |
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| Dookie |
| Subs in ported box tuned at 38hz... |
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| Dookie |
| Amps and Alumapro 5 Farad CAP... |
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| Eric L. |
Nice setup, but haven't you essentially eliminated much of the usefulness of driving a Murano? Looks like the cargo space in the trunk has been reduced dramatically.
A quick question, can I use that 4 output adapter you have without adding an aftermarket sub or amp? |
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| Dookie |
As far as the space issue goes, I really don't use it all that often. If need be, I can always remove the box for temporary periods of time. I bought the Murano because of how tall I am and how much room there is for the driver.
As far as the adapter goes, what would you use it for if you don't want to hook up an external amp? |
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| EdMPT |
| well that's one way of dealing with the rattle issue...nice set up! |
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| Dookie |
quote:
Originally posted by EdMPT
well that's one way of dealing with the rattle issue...nice set up!
Thanks! |
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| tekagga |
| is th murano easy to take aprt for stereo installations ...im planning to do it to mine and im just worrying about the head unit im replacing it with and basically takin apart the doors and dash to install speakers....can u tell me how to take apart the doors and dash so ic an get to the speakers and if i can replace the factory head unit with an after market flip out tv...or just show me where to go to find out all about this stuff |
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| Dookie |
| Well, as far as the head unit goes, you will not be able to replace it because it shares the same circuit board as the HVAC controls. Thats why I ended up using the PAC Audio OEM-1. To get to the tweeters, you have to pull the cloth cover off on the dash, along with the defroster vent at the same time. Its kinda tricky but if your patient, it will come off. For the doors, its basically a bunch of pop fasteners. There is a screw behind the door handle that you take off. Also, there is a screw on the bottom of the pull handle near the middle of the door. Once you pull this screw off, pry the window switch unit out and there will be two more screws under it. Take those off and there is one more behind the piece where the driver's seat memory is. Take that off and there is one screw there. I believe you should be able to pull the rest of the panel off. Once it's off all the way--two things. Disconnect the door light connector, and disconnect the two cables for the door handle that attach to the door panel. Kinda hard to explain how but you just use your hands and align the notches up and it pops right out. |
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| tekagga |
| thanks for your help but i have one more question..... is the head unit set up with the murano and othe nissans or infiniti for instance the g35, the same cuz there is a way for the head unit to be replaced but u will be sacrificing your dual temp controls and some othe stuff the board shares..... |
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| Dookie |
| I dont know of anybody who has actually replaced the HU in that location, but to me, you would have a useless screen, and no HVAC controls at all. What do you know about the Infinity model? I heard a company is trying to come out with a kit for it... |
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| tekagga |
| my friend has a 2004 infiniti g35 coupe full option except navi .he just bought a tv... he researched it and came across some people that replaced the HU with other head units. there display screen was workin and they have all controls, but there is one thing u can lose...its ur dual climate control but they said its easily fixed by soldering it to another place not sure where (he knows about more then i do) . there is also a kit they sell... the infiniti HU is much smaller than the murano so they cut out the center dash to the size of the head unit and replaced it that way.... im sure its the same process .. but i think its much easier than the g 35... theres a stereo shop here my other friend is sponsored by. we are good freinds and got his installer to see how much hell charg to do it...he said 200 for just the basic installation.. cutting out piece and then making dash and everythign else work..... |
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| Dookie |
| Please let me, or us, know if this is indeed possible. Something I would definately be interested in... |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| I don't know about the Infiniti, but the Murano has ALL the climate controls on the same board as the HU. |
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| jaak |
All those controls look like this, from behind...
You can't separate them. Perhaps if another Nissan/Infiniti has separate controls, they might be compatible.
Seems like a lot of work....
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| Baoh |
| Where do the dash board buttons connect? I can't tell if they are on the PCB in your picture or not. If they aren't, couldn't you just relocate that PCB and extend the wires for the climate control? |
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| Dookie |
| From the looks of it, the buttons are attached directly to the board. If you look at the plate of the radio, it looks fake to me. If they are indeed not attached, this is a good starting, point, but where would that big-A$$ board be hidden???:3: I'm really wanting an aftermarket HU in that location... |
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| Baoh |
| The don't really looked attached to me since I don't see enough places that look like buttons that would line up witht he nice big buttons that we actually touch. If someone will post instructions on removing the panel over the stereo, I'll start looking into it. I am dying to find a way to do a clean factory look install on mine with navigation. I'm too tall to fit with the sunroof, so I couldn't get a Murano with the factory Navi. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| That picture is the BACK of the circuit board. The buttons are on the front. |
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| Baoh |
| If that's the back, that means that you could fabricate a circuit board that would basically fit in the place of the old one, have the proper buttons and HVac knobs on it, a hole for a new head unit, and then route the wiring from the dummy board to the buttons and knobs spots on the real board that you've relocated. |
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| lnichols |
| It would probably be just as easy to fabricate a Murano around the stereo of your choice too.:D |
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| jaak |
quote:
Originally posted by Baoh
If that's the back, that means that you could fabricate a circuit board that would basically fit in the place of the old one, have the proper buttons and HVac knobs on it, a hole for a new head unit, and then route the wiring from the dummy board to the buttons and knobs spots on the real board that you've relocated.
Anything's possible with a enough time and money to design it and build it. Oops, missed a jumper here. Ooops, soldered that wire on the wrong spot. Hey, it's not working anymore... What? You want how much for a new one?
More trouble than it's worth...
The other option would be if another Nissan model has separate boards that connect to the same modules.
If you find an understanding parts guy, maybe you could spend half a day looking at the parts manuals? |
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| Dookie |
| I was thinking about mounting an aftermarket HU somewhere else, and leave the stock radio in and not even mess with that board. Does anyone have any good ideas on where, and how, to mount an aftermarket HU? |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| The tray area below the HVAC controls is an OK place. Not sure I would want to lose the space though. |
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| generator |
Dookie:
Could you supply a link to where you got the PAC audio interface and how much was it? Did you eliminate the bose amp completely? Is the interface a splitter or are you required to unplug the Bose amp completely and daisy chain it to the PAC interface? Thanks. |
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| Dookie |
| I really don't remember where I got it, but if you go to PAC's website, there is a couple of links where you can purchase it on-line. I'v attached a diagram of how the unit interfaces with the factory system. Some can just use it as a subwoofer output, or like I did, for the entire system. For my application, I chose to disconnect the connector at the Bose amp because I won't be using it and it would be receiving a signal from the HU when no output would be coming out of the amp. |
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| yanksno1 |
| I have a Kenwood sirius sat tuner and kenwood music keg...I control via the control unit and currently using RF MOd...I got this stuff before the info was out about the claion unit and the g35 wireing harness....Now Im searching High and low for a way to plug this stuff directly into my HU via rca or some other means.Im aware that I still may have to use the kenwood control unit for tuning and switching purposes. IS THERE A RCA INPUT ADAPTER OR SOME OTHER WAY OF HOOKING MY KENWOOD STUFF UP DIRECTLY.....IT WOULD SOUND SOOOO MUCH SWEETER |
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| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by yanksno1
I have a Kenwood sirius sat tuner and kenwood music keg...I control via the control unit and currently using RF MOd...I got this stuff before the info was out about the claion unit and the g35 wireing harness....Now Im searching High and low for a way to plug this stuff directly into my HU via rca or some other means.Im aware that I still may have to use the kenwood control unit for tuning and switching purposes. IS THERE A RCA INPUT ADAPTER OR SOME OTHER WAY OF HOOKING MY KENWOOD STUFF UP DIRECTLY.....IT WOULD SOUND SOOOO MUCH SWEETER
Not for input into the head unit, but there is one for hooking something up to the existing amp. You may lose your head unit input though, I'm not too sure how it works. Check www.pac-audio.com
Edit:
There is something by another company, that NYMURANO just posted about in General: http://www.linkmeup.com/
Thanks, NYMURANO. It's always good to have more options. |
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| jaak |
quote:
IS THERE A RCA INPUT ADAPTER OR SOME OTHER WAY OF HOOKING MY KENWOOD STUFF UP DIRECTLY.....IT WOULD SOUND SOOOO MUCH SWEETER
I've yet to see one, but I'm in the process of building one. I expect to have it functional in a couple of months. ( I do have a real job too!)
To open up the audio ports, you have to fake out the Radio into thinking it's got a satellite receiver attached. |
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| gseepes |
Hi Dookie,
Thanks for the great write-up. I've been following in your footsteps, and I have a question.
I'm trying to replace the stock tweeters, but I cannot get the tweeter off of the bracket. It looks like there's glue holding the screw on. I noticed you used the stock bracket. Did you run into this glue? If you did, how did you get it off? Should I just keep trying to scrape it off, heat, order a new one (if I can)?
Thanks for the help.
Glenn |
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| Dookie |
Yeah I ran into the same problem. I ended up prying it off the tweeter. I used a flat-head screwdriver. Give us a little write up on what you are installing!
Take it easy...Dustin |
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| gseepes |
Thanks Dustin,
This is my first install, and so far, so good. Much thanks to all those who posted with instructions.
I've got a JL Audio 300/4 amp, JL Audio 12W3D2 sub in a QLogic sealed box, and a set of MB Quart RCE216s in the front doors. I'm going to leave the rear doors out for now. Depending on how things sound, I might change out the rear doors, use the 300/4 to power the 4 speakers, and then get another amp for the sub. My goal is to improve the overall sound quality, especially when I turn it up a bit. I like to listen to classical, jazz, r&b, and rock.
I'm going to mount the amp under the front passenger seat. I think I might need to block the floor vent under there, so that the amp doesn't get hit with any hot air.
On Saturday, I ran a 4 gauge power wire from the battery with a 60 amp AGU in-line fuse, through the firewall using that boot you used, down along the drivers door sill panel, under the drivers seat, under the center console towards the rear, and out under the passenger seat. The wire tucked nicely under the edges of the console.
I also installed the PAC audio RCA output device. I ran the 2 sets of Monster shielded RCAs and a 16 gauge remote turn on wire down along the center console on the passenger side. Again, the wires tucked up nicely under the console edge.
On Sunday, I wired my ground (again using 4 gauge) to the front passenger seatbelt anchor bolt. I took off the door panels, replaced the speakers, and ran new 12 gauge wire. I cut into the existing rubber boot (where the oem wires run) on the door, and ran the wire into the car through a dime sized hole about 2 inches below the existing wires entry point. No problems opening and closing the door.
When I removed the bose speaker on the passenger side, there was a bunch of water behind and on the speaker itself. I think it was condensation. In order to avoid this getting on the new speakers, I put a one gallon sized zip lock bag in the existing hole, and mounted the speaker inside of it. The edges of the zip lock extend out about a half inch around the speaker edge. Do you think I'll have any problems with that setup?
I still have the tweeters, crossovers, and sub to do.
I am considering mounting the crossovers up under the dash on the passenger side. Do these get hot? Where have others mounted theirs?
Again, thanks for all the advice.
Glenn |
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| Tyler_Canada |
MB Quart and JL make a nice combo!
My front and rear amps are mounted under the front seats. I had to take the seats out so I could remove one of the amps because it's broken. I noticed that the floor vents are kind of like a Y-pipe. One of the two exits on each side is blowing on an amp. I have no problems with overheating the amps, although I'm not really pushing them. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
Oh, and my crossovers are mounted up under the dash on the passenger side. According to the guy who did the install, they are above the computer(s) near where the vent runs through the dash. He said it's good to keep the crossovers warm and dry, so they don't corrode (brass parts).
He had to remove the computer(s) to put the crossovers where he did. I got a check engine light (MIL), which worried me, but I just cleared the codes and it never came back. |
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