| Tyler_Canada |
What are people who are installing new amps and speakers doing about speaker wires?
I don't want to cut any harnesses, so I'm wondering, do the OE speaker wires just use a screw terminal on the amp, or is there some other solution? |
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| jaak |
Well, there's a couple of ways, besides messing with the OEM wires...
One is to go the show way, Bling Bling, and buy grossly oversized wires that attract those that like the looks and have been led to believe that enormous wires actually make a difference large enough to be heard, and the other way is to actually use something that's heavy enough guage to overcome any significant I2R losses without being so "pretty".
I've found Lamp cord to work well and be inexpensive. Plus it's handy as it's already a pair of wires.
But if you're looking for show, I'm sure there's lots of suggestions on the way! Where's that Welder's cable again... Yeah, 3/4 of inch diameter, that outta do it!
:blingblin
As far as connections, one of the least intrusive ways is to buy the connectors for the Bose at a Stereo shop. Unlike the SAT connector, the others are readily available. If you get both ends, one for the radio the other for the harness, you can "break out" the connections you want while retaining the others and not cutting into the OEM wiring. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by jaak
But if you're looking for show, I'm sure there's lots of suggestions on the way! Where's that Welder's cable again... Yeah, 3/4 of inch diameter, that outta do it!
:blingblin
I am using welder's cable, but that's for power. And it's not quite big enough, but I won't be running full power. :D
quote:
As far as connections, one of the least intrusive ways is to buy the connectors for the Bose at a Stereo shop. Unlike the SAT connector, the others are readily available. If you get both ends, one for the radio the other for the harness, you can "break out" the connections you want while retaining the others and not cutting into the OEM wiring.
Perhaps this is one of the "extra" components in the Nissan PAC interface set. |
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| jaak |
| Never did check it out... Do you have any more detail on it? |
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| Tyler_Canada |
I've checked it out, and it doesn't have a speaker harness connector. It contains:
OEM-1 line output converter, 4 channel with remote turn on.
Harness to connect HU output to OEM-1.
Harness to connect OEM-1 to RCAs.
Now, I have a different question:
Does the harness between the HU and AMP have the same connector on both ends?
Basically I don't want to run new audio input wires to my amp (or take the dash apart), and I would like to retain the balanced lines for the long run front to back, for noise purposes. |
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| jaak |
Of course they're not the same.... You can always dream, however!
Finding who makes the connectors on the Nissan's has been a bit of a pain. I've done some searching and did find a company in Taiwan that makes some of the common ones you can buy in a Car audio store, but that's about it... |
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| mgthe3 |
In my last vehicle I had a band pass box with 2-10's and a 250W amp bolted to the side of it. As in the MO it also had the rear 12V outlet which provided power for the amp. Running a remote on was simple from the fuse panel. I used wires from my rear speakers to provide signal, the sub amp had it's own crossover.
Nooooooow.......
Considering that:
1. I have a stock OEM system, not Bose.
2. My MO has only 750 miles on it and I do not relish the thought of yanking apart door panels or the dash to find signal sources.
How da heck am I going to get the signal for the amp?
I see a connector that I believe is for the Bose sub in the spare tire well. Is this connected to the OEM base system? ( I bet not.... :( ) If I can simply splice into the speaker wires under the door entrances, this would be acceptable. Does anyone have the color codes?
The first thing my sons and ALL of my friends asked was "Are ya gonna put the sub innit?"
Nuttin like some cranked Astral Projection to cruise and glide down the road with. :D |
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| Dookie |
Tyler,
I have that same OEM-1 set-up in my MO. The sound quality is great. You just connect the harness right in the back of the radio and it "Y's" from there...
PM me if you want me to take any pictures of it....or any other info.....it's really easy..... |
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| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by jaak
Of course they're not the same.... You can always dream, however!
So does this mean they aren't the same, or you don't know but assume not?
Because I'd just as soon do some cutting and soldering than take apart my dash and run more wires. I'm planning on keeping the Murano anyway. |
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| jaak |
| They're different connectors and pinouts. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| Thanks for the info. That really sucks though. I guess I’ll have to print out the wire colours and warm up the soldering iron before I start this one. |
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| jaak |
| The service manual gives the colour codes and the connector pinouts, let me know if you need them. |
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| mgthe3 |
uh, jaak?
In another thread I was askin about color codes (of an OEM non Bose system) in the harnesses located in the door thresholds.
Would you happen to have them? |
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| jaak |
The service manual gives colour codes at the various connectors. When it comes to the harness, you have to know what you're looking for, then you can look for those colours.
So, what are you looking for? |
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| mgthe3 |
why, the signal wires for the left and right rear door speakers, of course.
:)
I did this inna chevy dually one time for a bazooka and it worked out just fine. In the Venture I had, I had to chase the wires to the speakers themselves. I was just wondering if the harness for the speakers in the rear doors went under a door threshold I might be able to more cleanly tap them there for my powered sub. I have a rather large spool of 16 gauge lamp cord to run them to the back with. My sub amp takes either high or low inputs and has it's own crossover, I just hate to see the band pass box wastin away in the garage and know what it will do for the stock system in the MO.
I realized that the jack I had seen in the spare well was a trailer power wire from the posts here, I could use it for the power source. |
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| jaak |
| I have no idea of what the colour codes are, or where you would find them.... |
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| mgthe3 |
Thank you!
it looks like they put the colors for one side but not the other. Green and green/white. I saw a brown too.....but yes, it isn't clear izzit.
hmmmmm
All the chevy prints I have ever seen traced the colors all the way to the ends....dang it.
But thanks anyway.
;) |
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| jaak |
| I'm not sure what some of their colour codes are. What's L? Lime Green? Latte? Lavender? But I guess you can figure it out off the connector position and then you're on your way.... |
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| esemes |
quote:
Originally posted by jaak
I'm not sure what some of their colour codes are. What's L? Lime Green? Latte? Lavender? But I guess you can figure it out off the connector position and then you're on your way....
L is blue Jaak..... (what else??lol)
found this in the general section of the fx SM (assume its the s/a the MO, but you might wanna checK...........)
-eS |
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| jaak |
Hey Thanks SMS!
You know, I truly believe in RTFM, but I couldn't find that, when I looked... I'm sure it's in there. The type was probably too big. :)
Ahh... I'm so stupid. Of course L is blue... I guess someone figured since B was black, then the second letter would differentiate the... wait, they both have L as the second letter!
I suspect they asked Nissan North America for advice on this one. (I bet it took 8 months for an answer, too...)
:D
Ahh.. I see it's in the General Information section. That's why I couldn't find it. Silly me, I expected it in the electrical sections, but since there's so many, I guess GI makes sense.
:3: Engineers:3: (I can say this, being one...) |
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| esemes |
quote:
Originally posted by jaak
Hey Thanks SMS!
You know, I truly believe in RTFM, but I couldn't find that, when I looked... I'm sure it's in there. The type was probably too big. :)
Ahh... I'm so stupid. Of course L is blue... I guess someone figured since B was black, then the second letter would differentiate the... wait, they both have L as the second letter!
I suspect they asked Nissan North America for advice on this one. (I bet it took 8 months for an answer, too...)
:D
Ahh.. I see it's in the General Information section. That's why I couldn't find it. Silly me, I expected it in the electrical sections, but since there's so many, I guess GI makes sense.
:3: Engineers:3: (I can say this, being one...)
J- with as much help as you provide here (and at fx), you're more than allowed your share ........
glad to help!
-eS |
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| mattsmurano |
Hey,
Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the connections on the back of the head unit? I want to connect a line-level converter to the front speaker outputs.
I would prefer a inline plug-in adapter, so I don't have to tap off the factory harness wires, but I can't seem to find anything like that online and in stores.
Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks! |
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| Dookie |
PAC Audio makes a line level converter that makes a 4 channel RCA output, and there are no cutting of wires involved. You need three parts from them:
1) PAC-OEM1 (Unit itself)
2) PAC-ADD-NIS2 (Harness that ties converter with OEM harness)
3) PAC-AMP-RCA (Harness that plugs into OEM1 giving RCA outputs)
I bought mine from HP Distributing, but they told me they would only sell this to me as a one time thing because they usually only sell in bulk to other distributors. If you go to PAC's web site, look under their on-line dealers and you could probably find someone there...their web site is www.pac-audio.com
Hope this helps...
Dustin |
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| ZBoy |
| Does anyone know if this setup works with the non-bose system? |
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| mgthe3 |
I think not.
I am pretty sure the PAC unit is for the Bose head unit, at least that is what I have seen here on the forum for folks who used it.
**If any of you folks have done the PAC setup with a non bose oem system, let me know**
I have a stock non Bose HU myself. I just spliced in the sub amp to the rear door speakers.
I can tell you from experiance that the best route for you to go is to put a stout, very stable at low impedance, amp up front for the door speakers and the additional circuit for the sub--the stock non Bose amp doesn't like an amp spliced into the rear speakers, it becomes unstable at volumes above 18-20 and begins to blur and clip the highs. |
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| ZBoy |
quote:
Originally posted by mgthe3
I think not.
I am pretty sure the PAC unit is for the Bose head unit, at least that is what I have seen here on the forum for folks who used it.
**If any of you folks have done the PAC setup with a non bose oem system, let me know**
I have a stock non Bose HU myself. I just spliced in the sub amp to the rear door speakers.
I can tell you from experiance that the best route for you to go is to put a stout, very stable at low impedance, amp up front for the door speakers and the addition--the stock non Bose amp doesn't like an amp spliced into the rear speakers, it becomes unstable at volumes above 18-20.
Thanks...
I think I am going to go with a 4 channel amp with high level inputs and run it off the Head Units output.
My assumption is the non-bose has no amp at all and runs only off the head unit.
The advantage is that makes it a smipler install, the disadvantage is that I cant take the ouputd from under the rear seat, I have to runi cable to the head unit or speakers.
I put Inifinity 6x9" 3-ways up front and 6.5s in the rear already. Powered off the HU.
I was very impressed with the 6.5s sound. Very bright and detailed, but the 6x9s are not much of an improvement over stock. Very muddy and quiet, the rears overpower the front, which is baaaad.
So I decided to get my wife an amp, power the front 6x9s (because I think they are much less efficient hence the poor SQ from them currently), and get an 8" sub and customize a fiberglass box for her (run that on the other two channels on the amp) and leave the 6.5s powered from the HU.
That should lend itself to some very nice HW at a good price.
And maybe I can get fancy with the fiberglass like I did with my car: |
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| mgthe3 |
Yeah, the HU is the amp in our situation.
Unfortunately it will probably be a hack job on the wiring harness after the plug on the HU. But, I guess this is the easiest way so you don't have to run all of the wires out to the doors.
There are devices to let you devide out line level for your rear sub, that would be the cleanest signal IMO.
Love what you did with ur Z sub---niiiiiiize!
:) |
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| ZBoy |
Well since I have to run one set of wires to the doors anyway, I decided its easier to run two sets (one for input and one for output). That way I wont have to pull the HU,
I bought my wife a small Kicker amp (4channel) yesterday.
50x4 and its tiny!
Also got her an 8" Polk Db sub. My wife and I have a creative solution for the install. I think you will all like it when its done. |
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| larry1960 |
quote:
Originally posted by jaak
The service manual gives the colour codes and the connector pinouts, let me know if you need them.
The pin outs for the radio and the bose amp in and out would be great
Thank You
Larry |
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| mgthe3 |
| uh.....did you see page one of this thread Larry? The schematic is there. |
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