| Enforcer |
Thought it would be interesting to create a poll on the type of problems people have had with their Murano. If you had a problem that required a replacement part from Nissan, please post what it was, approximate mileage, the model and the build date of your MO.
The only thing for me so far has been the alignment off at delivery. Had it fixed at about 500 miles, build date of my MO is 3/03. Build date is listed on white sticker on drivers door jam next to "DATE".
edit - And don't forget to input your problem in the Knowledge Base on this site. |
|
|
| GMTURBO43 |
Probably the biggest 'problem' is having another car that is fun to drive. It is no longer a curse to drive the wife's car :)
The only thing that wears on me slightly is the sound of the tires during spirited cornering. They seem to make a little more noice than they should. I am sure this could be resolved with 20's and a 35 series tire :)
The other thing I don't care for is the rear window rattle if rolled partially down. It doesn't seem to be a problem if rolled all the way down. |
|
|
| cenolar |
| Twice in the past 2 weeks my new Murano ( < 3000 mi) has stalled and I could not restart it. I had to have it towed both times. I happended to be in 2 different cities so it was towed to 2 different dealers. Nether dealer could figure out what was wrong with it. The problem seems temporary. I am currently driving it with my fingers crossed. |
|
|
| dmako |
| Had a problem like this years ago in my VW, the dealers could figure it out. Turned out to be the electric fuel pump. |
|
|
| Enforcer |
| Yes, there was a 350Z owner that this happened to as well. Fuel pump was replaced and voila. |
|
|
| admin |
quote:
Originally posted by cenolar
Twice in the past 2 weeks my new Murano ( < 3000 mi) has stalled and I could not restart it. I had to have it towed both times. I happended to be in 2 different cities so it was towed to 2 different dealers. Nether dealer could figure out what was wrong with it. The problem seems temporary. I am currently driving it with my fingers crossed.
You should add this to the knowledge base, see if anyone else is having the same issue. |
|
|
| jimsteiner |
| Slight, but noticeable, rocking of driver's seat upon hard braking. Haven't had the dealer check it out, yet. |
|
|
| jaak |
| I didn't see, "My wife won't let me sleep in it" listed, so I had to go with "None".:roadtrip: |
|
|
| pkhona |
quote:
Originally posted by cenolar
Twice in the past 2 weeks my new Murano ( < 3000 mi) has stalled and I could not restart it. I had to have it towed both times. I happended to be in 2 different cities so it was towed to 2 different dealers. Nether dealer could figure out what was wrong with it. The problem seems temporary. I am currently driving it with my fingers crossed.
Hi,
I had similar but slight different problem. The car won't start. And then started suddenly. Once started , would drive funny and wouldn't go over 20 miles/hr. it would apply brakes on its own and start stalling.
I shut down the engine and the again it won't start. However I removed the key and started again , the problem went away. The dealer couldn't figure the problem out and started lecturing me as to how to start the car , how to drive (what a bs!!).
Regards,
Purvesh |
|
|
| lmuscella |
| I also have a problem with the drivers seat rocking when braking or accelerating fast. Plus, I'm getting rattles! I can't stand rattles! The rattles are in the dash by the windsheild and behind the floating control panel:3: |
|
|
| Enforcer |
pkhona, sounds to me like either the key or the BCM. Is it fixed?
cenolar, any progress? |
|
|
| pkhona |
Hi,
I suspected BCM / ECM communication problem. Dealer didnot find any problem and hence did not reset the codes.
Regards,
Purvesh |
|
|
| Enforcer |
The BCM has this TSB:
EL03-004 NTB03-012 February 6, 2003
2003 MURANO; INTERIOR COURTESY LAMPS INOPERATIVE
APPLIED VEHICLE: 2003 Murano (Z50)
APPLIED DATE: Built before November 25, 2002
APPLIED VIN(S): Built before JN8AZ08T(*)3W103076, or
JN8AZ08W(*)3W207958
Although it's for courtesy lamps, there could be other manifestations. There is also a TSB on key registration that involves BCM codes:
EL02-015a NTB02-071a November 4, 2002
ENGINE WILL NOT START
NVIS/NATS SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
KEY REGISTRATION
IMPORTANT: This bulletin has been revised.
The Applied Vehicle, Service Information, and Service Procedure sections of this bulletin were
revised to include the 2003 Murano. Please refer to this bulletin (NTB02-071a) for complete
information. Discard any paper copies of NTB02-071 that you may have.
APPLIED VEHICLES: 2003 350Z (Z33)
2003 Murano (Z50) |
|
|
| pkhona |
Hi,
Thanks. For some reason my one day subscription to TSB expired few hrs. earlier. I had downloaded TSB about BCM, but couldn't download about the courtesy lights.
I am starting to wonder if Nissan has tested out their electronic systems thoroughly or not.
Regards,
Purvesh |
|
|
| cenolar |
I have been going 2 weeks now with no issues. I have made a few changes on my own. I started using 93 octane (using 89 prev) and I am not only getting better gas milage but the Murano seems to perform better. One dealer noted it was not idling properly. It seems to now.
I am still keeping my fingers crossed that is was a bad tank of gas! |
|
|
| Doombringer |
Rattles, rattles, rattles! The two that I've noticed are:
Clicking windows. The driver and passenger, and occasionally rear passenger, windows like to click/tap on certain bumps or when the vehicle leans (curves). From what I've heard, this is a widespread problem.
Console buzzing. I occasionally hear a buzzing (rapid) rattle from around the center console/display screen. I'm not exactly sure what it is. It's hard to duplicate and hear, too. Probably the radio/climate console is slightly loose, or something... |
|
|
| lmuscella |
| My console is rattling so much now a days that I have to take it into the shop. It is driving me nuts. A brand new car and I have rattles after only 600 miles!! I love this car but any more rattles might push me over board. |
|
|
| Muranizer |
My rattles:
Center console: CD cases inside the storage box!
Instrument "pod": I removed the pod assy., then applied some adhesive foam strips to the mounting tabs, reinstalled it and it is silent! I was amazed at how much better this easy modification made my MO. It made a huge difference!
So far, any other rattles have been stuff inside the car that I am carrying. (like my bikes, or the rack that holds them). |
|
|
| dmako |
I am getting a noise every so often. A very very slight thump. It seems to be coming from behind the driver, I hear in my left ear, and occurs when accelerating and/or stopping. Doesn’t seem to be the windows.
I read before that someone found an issue with the duct work in the center pillar was lose and made a noise.
I’ll have to sit in the back and have the wife drive. |
|
|
| Enforcer |
| Why not drive and let the wife sit in the back? :D |
|
|
| dmako |
"Why not drive and let the wife sit in the back?"
Good Idea, that why I've been put'n this task off so long! |
|
|
| kinghemi |
muranizer. how do you take the pod off?
Dmako- I had an issue with the ducts. They are attached ( Loosely) to the panel that covers the post. I removed the panel, injected insulating foam between the duct and the panel, allowed it to harden and then replaced the panel. Piece of cake. |
|
|
| Muranizer |
KingH,
The plastic schrouds on the steering column must be removed to expose the two 6mm (10mm wrench size) bolts that mount the pod.
Remove the covers, remove the two bolts, & pod lifts right off. There is one connector for the wiring.
There are two square posts on the back of the pod, that push into sockets in the dash. that was the source of my rattle. Adding the foam strips put tension between the posts, & the dash, eliminating the rattle.
Hope this helps... |
|
|
| higbyz |
My mo was built in Jan of 03 the only problems I have are rattles.....mainly a ticking sound in back....wife sat back there and said its coming from under the seat..seems like the plastic contraption that holds the pull strap for the seat adjustment.AnywayI am so concerned now with cvt issues that I couldnt care less about these (what I now consisder) minor annoyances. Meanwhile I did jam a bunch of foam rubber srips around my speedo pod to end the rattle there and it worked....I guess I should remove it and do it the right way.
I will be driving to Fla this fall from Vermont,1500 miles,with the whole family aboard and will now be on the edge of my cafe latte leather seat all the way worrying about cvt failure. If there is a problem with the control unit I sure would love to know now and get it replaced but these recalls take a very long time to manifest themselves.
I was also wondering if those who are having cvt issues had done alot of shifting between the s and d mode on the fly.And I was curious about the build dates on mos with cvt problems.:confused: Jaak, havent head from you in a while and was wondering what your opinion was about cvt failure....you never responded to Mr Bill... |
|
|
| cenolar |
After being trouble free for close to 4 weeks, I just brought my MO in for its first oil change last night. I pulled out of the dealer, went less than a mile down the road, and it stalled again and would not restart.
This time I did notice the oil light went on before it stalled. And when I try to start it, the engine does not even turn. The prior 2 times at least the engine would turn but it just wouldn't catch.
Very, very bummed out! I am now driving my father old truck with all his fishing gear on the back!
:( |
|
|
| Doombringer |
A few more interesting 'problems'
Though they may be bugs (read: features).
1. 'Clutch slip' - This is the only term I could possibly use for it. The scenario calls for driving at around 30 MPH. I let off the gas to coast, and engine breaking kicks in. The vehicle slows for a bit, going down to about 25 MPH, and I re-apply the gas. The sensation that follows is abrupt, like something tight suddenly released. This may be a feature of the torque converter clutch releasing (ending engine breaking since you're trying to accelerate again) but it feels unusual, un-smooth, despite being brief.
It doesn't happen when: Traveling above 50 MPH or so. It also doesn't happen if you let off the gas and quickly re-apply it, like within 1 second.
2. More noticeable change in power when shifting - This happens primarily when there is load on the engine, like when AC is going. The vehicle is slower to accelerate and the changes between 'gears' seems more apparent.
Does not happen when: The AC is off, though I will continue to test this. It only presents itself in the lower gears, like when first starting from a stop. The transmission does NOT slip, if you're thinking that. |
|
|
| rainbowfarm |
The blue/black SE that I would like, that is sitting there, is an '03, built in November '02. Seems like asking for trouble. I suppose the solution is ... of course, continue to wait for an '04. If they take enough $$$ off that puppy, I will probably buy it, though... then start with the fix-em-up stuff.
Thinking out loud. |
|
|
| pkhona |
Hi Doombringer,
I had very similar problems to yours and cenolars combined. Read my original desc. posted below. I consider this a very serious issue and Dealers think its sitting in our heads.
pkhona
=======================
A few more interesting 'problems'
Though they may be bugs (read: features).
1. 'Clutch slip' - This is the only term I could possibly use for it. The scenario calls for driving at around 30 MPH. I let off the gas to coast, and engine breaking kicks in. The vehicle slows for a bit, going down to about 25 MPH, and I re-apply the gas. The sensation that follows is abrupt, like something tight suddenly released. This may be a feature of the torque converter clutch releasing (ending engine breaking since you're trying to accelerate again) but it feels unusual, un-smooth, despite being brief.
"===================
Hi,
I had similar but slight different problem. The car won't start. And then started suddenly. Once started , would drive funny and wouldn't go over 20 miles/hr. it would apply brakes on its own and start stalling.
I shut down the engine and the again it won't start. However I removed the key and started again , the problem went away. The dealer couldn't figure the problem out and started lecturing me as to how to start the car , how to drive (what a bs!!).
Regards,
Pkhona
============== |
|
|
| Doombringer |
Wow, actually pkhoma, yours is much more serious than mine. With mine, the car functions normally, as normal as normal can be.
It always starts for me. It doesn't get 'stuck' at a certain MPH, nor does it 'brake on its own'. Sure it slows itself down, that's the engine braking (and it's pretty heavy the lower your MPH is)...
The 'reboot' (turning the car off, then on again) seems to clear up a LOT of weird CVT/Murano hiccups, or so I've seen on this board and others. There's definitely something wrong with your MO, though, if it keeps acting THAT strangely. |
|
|
| pkhona |
Hi Doombringer,
It happened only once. I am an engineer myself and strong believer of the fact that if it happened once , it will happen again unless there was a loose contact that got fixed when I went to dealership to get the car checked.
I will keep my fingers crossed and see if it repeats again or not.
Meanwhile on positive note , I got my first service done and the car just purrs like a kitten moves like a cheetah. Also I followed enforcer's breaking in recommendations and the car has started giving excellent perfomance even at higher RPMs. Thanks enforcer !!
Love this car (except of the one hiccup I had). I am planning to get xpel installed this saturday and will post the pics once done.
pkhona |
|
|
| cenolar |
Day #7 and they still have my MO. They said they are still in exploratory mode now. They said they are talking to Nissan who instructed them to take the engine apart.
I am now driving a rented Neon! Oh the pain!:( |
|
|
| pkhona |
See if you can invoke the lemon law. My prob. has never repeated again till today.
But you should definately consider lemon law invocation.
pkhona |
|
|
|
