| vfr |
I have the base four speaker setup that needs improvement and I am not confident with the answers from the local audio shops(two shops said they didn't believe there were 6 x 9s up front) and they are steering me to the products they have on hand of course.
I am looking at infinity's and would like a component set up front but am limited with market selection using 6 x 9s. Would 6.5 inch fit or would the smaller 5x7s be satisfactory? The rear 6.5s are no problem.
It looks as though I need to keep the head unit and add an amp if necessary. I am surprised with the power of the stock system and am not looking for more volume just better quality sound.
I tried some searches as I know this may be elementary but could not piece enough info together |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| I am still on the lookout for a reasonable priced direct bolt in replacement for the rear door speakers, same impedance, sensitivity, etc. any suggetions, Model Numbers, source, etc.. Thanks, Don :D |
|
|
| Tyler_Canada |
| Are they really 6x9" in the front of non-Bose Muranos? They're 6.5" in the front of Bose Muranos, I can't see them changing the door layout for that. |
|
|
| vfr |
"Are they really 6x9" in the front of non-Bose Muranos? They're 6.5" in the front of Bose Muranos, I can't see them changing the door layout for that."
Yes, at first I believed the pros. Just as I was about to order some infinity Kappa 6.5s I popped the front door finisher at the bottom and saw that they were eliptical speakers six inches accross and 8-9 inches high per my tape measure that I slid up there.
I have also found a site that lists the Murano fronts As having the 6 X 9.
This is my question as the 6 X 9 size is limited in selection as far as component speakers go. Will I have trouble fitting 6.5 inch round speakers? . My vehicle is an 05 S:confused: |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
I didn't know that there were 6x9's there....hmmmm.
I would get a decent 3 way with crossovers built in. There are a billion different kinds. Go to a shop and listen--bring a Fave CD so you will have some reference. |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
mine is an SL, so I guess they are oval, right Don?
and if oval, what size......6x9? I didn't see that in ur link. |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| Are you ready for this, Oval unless it's a Bose then it's round. 6.5 if round and IMO 6x9 oval :D |
|
|
| GripperDon |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
Are you ready for this, Oval unless it's a Bose then it's round. 6.5 if round and IMO 6x9 oval :D
Now I still ned a recomendation that will work with the Bose Amp for the Rear doors. Thanks, Don |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
okay...mine is oem, not Bose, I had thought you knew that.
Now of course I have an amp wired into the rear speaker supply for my subs.
Now about your 6 1/2's... maybe these?
Or these?
Both seem like very nice speakers to me, but I would have to listen to them to be sure which I would choose.
:D |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| mgthe3 A couple of very nice recommendations and I appreciate it. I have got to determine the impedance of the rear door MO speakers and then I think you have me set to go. Don :D |
|
|
| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
mgthe3 A couple of very nice recommendations and I appreciate it. I have got to determine the impedance of the rear door MO speakers and then I think you have me set to go. Don :D
Don I think I remember reading elsewhere on the forum that the cabin speakers were all 2-ohm. With that being said, has anyone tested the Bose amp to see if it uses some sort of regulated power supply? I *doubt* it, but I've been wrong before, like about the subwoofer being dual voice coil. :D
If it is a regulated power supply in the amplifier, you have the choice of literally hundreds of very high quality 4-ohm 6.5" drivers. I've found precious few 2-ohm drivers... the ones I have found are typically component setups. That being said, many component setups have the option of being mounted coaxially.
Just a thought. |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| And A good one too. :D |
|
|
| vfr |
Thanks mgthe3 and Don for the enlightenment. The PAC adaptor will come in handy for my roady2 also.
Is a good three way speaker as good as a component setup? |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| I also use the Delphi XM Roady2 with a PAC here is where I put it. |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
I know the stock non bose amp doesn't care too much for my sub amp being spliced into the rear door speaker circuit.
Before the amp I could crank it well into the 20's without distortion.
(I think it's clipping but not the usual clipping sound)
After splicing in the amp I am limited to about 19 tops without clipping. It is temp related as well cause I can crank it to 21 for about 2 minutes and then the clipping begins.
I've never been happy with stock amps, they don't want to put out what I want when I am in the mood for some screamin tunes.
My venture van would simply thermal down.....usually in the best part of the tune--but it never clipped, in fact, it would almost make ur ears bleed before it thermaled.
With that being said: I would highly recommend replacing the stock amp all together, that is, if you like to crank ur tunes.
I listen to trance genre mainly. Psychodelic trance is my fave.
It has been all the rage in Ibiza and europe for a few years now.
Astral Projection: FAB Israeli duo best heard recorded, their tracks are waaaay too complicated to mix live.
Paul Van Dyke: arguably the best mixer ever, best heard live, his mixing skills are unparalleled--he drives crowds insane. Brit reviews call it "mental". :)
One of the best tracks I have heard lately is PVD at Nature One. It was recorded at a music fest in an old US ground launched cruise missile base in Germany. Pretty surreal. |
|
|
| vfr |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
I also use the Delphi XM Roady2 with a PAC here is where I put it.
That looks good up there. I saw that on an earlier post and looked at placing mine there but I do not have a sun roof and therefore a horizontal surface making it difficult to view. It now sits in fron of the shifter.
On another note, Our electronics guy says that higher impedence speakers will not harm the amp but may be a little less efficient. Lower impedence may cause a problem. I brought that up because you were trying to match a possible lower impedence but I am sure you know that. |
|
|
| GripperDon |
mgthe3 and VFR
First I love the picture, mg
Second VFR, I also liked the idea that the higher impedance being easier on the AMP by reducing the power draw possible, then I worried that the higher impedance in the rear door would make them quite relative to the stock fronts, Then I thought well that what God invented the front back fader control for and I have the level on my separate sub woofer amp to balance that if I need to.
my 04 placement was I think where yours is now.
http://www.nissanmurano.org/photopo...&papass=&sort=1
So I do appreciate you inputs and am going to visit circuit city and best buy just as soon as I get my phone mute relay finished and get a good non paper full range 4 ohm speaker set.
Thanks to all Grip :D |
|
|
| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
mgthe3 and VFR
First I love the picture, mg
Second VFR, I also liked the idea that the higher impedance being easier on the AMP by reducing the power draw possible, then I worried that the higher impedance in the rear door would make them quite relative to the stock fronts, Then I thought well that what God invented the front back fader control for and I have the level on my separate sub woofer amp to balance that if I need to.
my 04 placement was I think where yours is now.
http://www.nissanmurano.org/photopo...&papass=&sort=1
So I do appreciate you inputs and am going to visit circuit city and best buy just as soon as I get my phone mute relay finished and get a good non paper full range 4 ohm speaker set.
Thanks to all Grip :D
I'm sure I don't have to tell you this Grip, but just a thought... if the Bose amp is not a regulated power supply, as you know it will only output half of the rated power at 4 ohms vs. 2. It's a 6-channel, 225W amp, meaning it's currently giving 37.5W per channel into 2 ohms. Into a 4 ohm load that would be 18.75W per channel. You won't find many speakers out there that are efficient at that power -- most quality speakers are going to want 50W-75W RMS... just a reminder! :) |
|
|
| GripperDon |
quote:
Originally posted by special-k
I'm sure I don't have to tell you this Grip, but just a thought... if the Bose amp is not a regulated power supply, as you know it will only output half of the rated power at 4 ohms vs. 2. It's a 6-channel, 225W amp, meaning it's currently giving 37.5W per channel into 2 ohms. Into a 4 ohm load that would be 18.75W per channel. You won't find many speakers out there that are efficient at that power -- most quality speakers are going to want 50W-75W RMS... just a reminder! :)
I have helped the situation somewhat by eliminating the sub woofer dual voice coil load. So that pumps me up to tweeters, fronts and read doors. Either 4 or 6 channels ,not sure which. Taking your advise I may still search around some more for 2 ohm speakers or even leave it alone as it doesn't sound all that bad probably as I don't listen to music that loudly. Or maybe the sub woofer requires a larger share of the energy spectrum. I am really not in a rush, so prudence and reflection. |
|
|
| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon I have helped the situation somewhat by eliminating the sub woofer dual voice coil load. So that pumps me up to tweeters, fronts and read doors. Either 4 or 6 channels ,not sure which. Taking your advise I may still search around some more for 2 ohm speakers or even leave it alone as it doesn't sound all that bad probably as I don't listen to music that loudly. Or maybe the sub woofer requires a larger share of the energy spectrum. I am really not in a rush, so prudence and reflection.
Hmmmm, you know that makes me scratch my head a little and think.
Offloading the sub onto the other amp certainly helped the headroom of the amp... it can now drive its other channels more efficiently, but unless I am mistaken (and I very well might be...) the "leftover" power is not reallocated to the remaining channels. So, taking the sub out of the mix gives you more room for the amp to produce clean power on the other 4 channels, but won't increase their actual output. I think? Right? I've never actually thought about this before. :) |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
increase damping factor?
:confused: |
|
|
| GripperDon |
I think, that means I don't know for sure, that the substitution of the new Amp as a load instead of the sub woofer, should help the Bose's power supply as less total power is being pumped out of the Bose. Does that make sense? I hope I didn't do all that for no positive result.
The system does sound subjectively better, but that may just be the fact that the sub woofer sounds stronger, as it does.
P.S. Any way that you all know of getting at the door speakers without removing the entire door panel? |
|
|
| zebelkhan |
This is sort of a thread-hijack because my question it is not related to this discussion but it is a question about speakers!
If I want to connect a small speaker directly to the line output of my carputer (EPIA-V), using only the onboard sound sytem and no external amplifer, what kind of speaker (ohm, watts) do I need to use? The manual does not have any specs. just the line output is to connect to headphone/speakers! |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| Others will know better. I alway thought line outputs were typically 1 volt out to hi impedance inputs, say in the kilohm's. Have you plugs an earphone in and tried to listen? If that works a small speaker like you have for a hands free cell phone would be the next try. Their may just be enough power to run one of those. |
|
|
| zebelkhan |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
...a small speaker like you have for a hands free cell phone would be the next try. Their may just be enough power to run one of those.
Thanks Grip....! Now why didn't I think of that? I went out and bought a small speaker (did not work by the way - just a faint sound came out of it) while I have at least a couple of those cell phone speakers in the garage collecting dust! What is more, they have built in amplifiers too that can be directly connected to the car with no power regulation needed (which was my problem) Thanks again. :) |
|
|
| GripperDon |
| I learned too I didn't know they had built in amps just that I thought they were higher than normal impedance. |
|
|
| zebelkhan |
| Please don't let me steer you in the wrong direction as I really don't know. But I assumed as such because the one that I have requires power, is very loud and has volume control. So I assumed it is amplified. We shall see tonight! |
|
|
| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by zebelkhan
Please don't let me steer you in the wrong direction as I really don't know. But I assumed as such because the one that I have requires power, is very loud and has volume control. So I assumed it is amplified. We shall see tonight!
Typically anything coming out of a "line out" port on a computer needs a self-amplified speaker. If you have a "headphone" jack on the computer's soundcard (some do, some don't) then it's usually enough to make a tiny speaker audible. |
|
|
| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by special-k
Hmmmm, you know that makes me scratch my head a little and think.
Offloading the sub onto the other amp certainly helped the headroom of the amp... it can now drive its other channels more efficiently, but unless I am mistaken (and I very well might be...) the "leftover" power is not reallocated to the remaining channels. So, taking the sub out of the mix gives you more room for the amp to produce clean power on the other 4 channels, but won't increase their actual output. I think? Right? I've never actually thought about this before. :)
When I removed my factory sub, my other speakers sounded a LOT better. I would say the amp is pretty weak and near it's limits with the factory speakers.
The sub takes 2 of the amp channels, so you are at 4 channels without it, Don. |
|
|
| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by Tyler_Canada
When I removed my factory sub, my other speakers sounded a LOT better. I would say the amp is pretty weak and near it's limits with the factory speakers.
The sub takes 2 of the amp channels, so you are at 4 channels without it, Don.
Yes I understand that, I was simply saying that the remaining 4 channels aren't going to put out more power if the sub is not hooked up... just that the amp has more headroom now and isn't being stressed so much so the output will be cleaner and less distorted. |
|
|
| zebelkhan |
quote:
Originally posted by GripperDon
...a small speaker like you have for a hands free cell phone would be the next try.
As usual you were right on the money. I used the speaker and the little amp from the handsfree and my setup is now working. Thanks! |
|
|
| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by special-k
Yes I understand that, I was simply saying that the remaining 4 channels aren't going to put out more power if the sub is not hooked up... just that the amp has more headroom now and isn't being stressed so much so the output will be cleaner and less distorted.
I didn't say anything about more power or volume, I just said it sounded better. |
|
|
|
