| nismomurano |
| I was wondering how many of you guys have changed the oil before on the murano....I heard it was pretty easy, so if you guys can tell me how to do that that be great....thanks. |
|
|
| mozman |
| The owners manual shows how to do that. It looks fairly easy (although I haven;t tried it), since you can access the oil filter by removing one of the panels in the front pass. wheel well. |
|
|
| Stoker |
Changing the oil is very easy, turn your front wheels hard right ( Hard a starboard for the nautical types). The oil filter is on the other side of the plastic guard and you can reach it from there, or crawl underneath if it is better for you. You should change the filter out first , then clean off the surface of the filter gasket. On the new filter place a thin coat of wheeel grease on to the rubber gasket, this will make it easier to remove it the next time.
Once that is done, again crawl under the Mo and remove the oil pan drain plug. As the oil is draining take the time to replace the copper washer that Nissan supplies with the filters ( at least my dealer does that). Once the oil has completely drain out replace the oil pan drain plug and refill the engine with your brand of oil.
The nice thing about the Mo is that it is high enough above the ground so that you do not need to jack the car up to access the filter or the oil pan drain plug.
One last thing you do is reset the maintenance setting on the MO for your next oil change and go have a beer for a job well done.:7: :7: |
|
|
| Eric L. |
Good set of instructions. A couple things I thought of:
1) Opening the filler cap before loosening the drain plug helps oil to drain faster
2) Its a good idea to pour a little oil into the filter and "presoak" it before installation. Maybe 1/5th of a quart. Might make no difference at all, but I heard this speeds up the time it takes to reach full oil pressure (the oil doesn't have to soak into a dry filter on the first startup). |
|
|
| nismomurano |
| now let me ask you if you guys know anythin about this......lets say i wanted to put synthetic oil in my engine from now on...do i have to flush the engine out to get the old oil out? or do i just pour the synthetic oil into the engine?? |
|
|
| Kris |
| Flushing is not necessary. However make sure that the oil is drained "completely". Just wait long enough. That's all. |
|
|
| Kris |
quote:
Originally posted by Stoker
Changing the oil is very easy, turn your front wheels hard right ( Hard a starboard for the nautical types). The oil filter is on the other side of the plastic guard and you can reach it from there, or crawl underneath if it is better for you. You should change the filter out first , then clean off the surface of the filter gasket. On the new filter place a thin coat of wheeel grease on to the rubber gasket, this will make it easier to remove it the next time.
Once that is done, again crawl under the Mo and remove the oil pan drain plug. As the oil is draining take the time to replace the copper washer that Nissan supplies with the filters ( at least my dealer does that). Once the oil has completely drain out replace the oil pan drain plug and refill the engine with your brand of oil.
The nice thing about the Mo is that it is high enough above the ground so that you do not need to jack the car up to access the filter or the oil pan drain plug.
One last thing you do is reset the maintenance setting on the MO for your next oil change and go have a beer for a job well done.:7: :7:
Why take the filter first? I remove the oil plug first, drain the oil and then change the filter. |
|
|
| njmo |
Any of you Guys or Gals experience a sales pitch to have the engine connected to a machine that does precisely that (Flush the oil system)? I took my My prevoius 99 Maxima in for service about a year ago and the Service Manager said that due to the thin oil used in the car and the infreqeuncy of my oil changes that they needed to flush the oil system. I knew that the oil change comment was a crock but I let them do it anyway. Just want to know if any of you have heard of this from your Nissan dealers.
njmo |
|
|
| Gonzo |
quote:
Originally posted by Kris
Why take the filter first? I remove the oil plug first, drain the oil and then change the filter.
Me too. Not sure why but it is just how I've been doing it for years.
nismomurano, perform a search. Loads of info from others on this. The hardest part will be reading the new level on the dipstick. After my change I add 4 QTS and that includes oil that I fill in the new oil filter.
4QTS leaves it just a little bit below full. I would rather have a little less than over fill don't chaknow. |
|
|
| JeffC |
njmo
My dealership's service dept has a poster (and some bottles of supposedly dirty oil, flushed oil and clean oil) that advertises the "oil flush". This is the first time I've seen this scam although there have been plenty of engine flush additives in the past.
If you change oil and filter at reasonable intervals, you don't need any kind of flush or additives. Even if you did let some deposits build up inside the engine, wouldn't you be better off leaving them attached to the inside of the engine block rather than loosening them up and flushing all that dirt past your rings, bearings, valve guides, etc?
JeffC |
|
|
| Eric L. |
For you cartalk fans out there,
OIL FLUSH = BOAT PAYMENT
Ask your Nissan mechanic what size boat he is towing. |
|
|
| Stoker |
quote:
Originally posted by Kris
Why take the filter first? I remove the oil plug first, drain the oil and then change the filter.
The big reason I change my oil filter first is that my oil collection pan is dry so that if the filter slips out of my hand and goes into the oil pan it will only hit a dry bottom.
If on the other hand you change the filter last and drag your now almost full oil pan under the filter to catch the oil that will come out of it and it slips out of your hand, the resulting tsunmia in the oil collection pan will cause you to clean up the floor in your garage and leave a mess.:29: :29: |
|
|
| dmako |
Going to attempt an oil/filter change in my MO today (weather permitting) been having the dealer do it. Have Mobil 1 at the ready.
Have been doing oil changes before in my other cars but never on the MO. Good tips here, just cold today with chance of flurries. |
|
|
| enamurao |
quote:
Originally posted by Stoker
The big reason I change my oil filter first is that my oil collection pan is dry so that if the filter slips out of my hand and goes into the oil pan it will only hit a dry bottom.
If on the other hand you change the filter last and drag your now almost full oil pan under the filter to catch the oil that will come out of it and it slips out of your hand, the resulting tsunmia in the oil collection pan will cause you to clean up the floor in your garage and leave a mess.:29: :29:
to avoid all this mess just go get a sealed
oil collection pan, just save yourself a whole lotta mess. |
|
|
| Gonzo |
| Exactly, that is what I use. Then afterwards I can bring it to the reccyle center and empty it out for another use. |
|
|
| bluzrip |
| Another thread on this topic suggested using a Tupperware tray under the oil filter to avoid messy drips. I've found that the throw away tray that comes with a package of Jennie-O Peppercorn Ranch Deli Thin Smoked Turkey Breast (12 oz) fits/works nicely. :D The Murano has turned out to be perhaps the easiest, cleanest oil change I've ever done. |
|
|
| Gonzo |
quote:
Originally posted by bluzrip
I've found that the throw away tray that comes with a package of Jennie-O Peppercorn Ranch Deli Thin Smoked Turkey Breast (12 oz) fits/works nicely...
Can you be more specific.... was that the low calorie version. :2: :2: :2: :2:
I agree the MO is great of changing oil. The easiest I've ever owned. |
|
|
| bluzrip |
quote:
Can you be more specific.... was that the low calorie version.
Actually there are other flavors... :D |
|
|
| masboy |
which Mobil 1 oil for Murano is ? And how many I have to buy for Murano ?
thanks ! |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
which Mobil 1 oil for Murano is ? And how many I have to buy for Murano ?
thanks !
Mobil One 5w30.
The MO takes between 4-1/2 and 4-2/3 quarts, so buy 5 (you can also buy a convenient 5 quart jug). |
|
|
| northoftheline |
| I'm curious, we're waiting for our '07 SE to arrive and I'd like to do the oil changes myself. Does the Nissan have any stipulations about whom, how and when the oil changes are done? I've always done all my oil changes at home, but I don't want to void my warranty by doing it myself. Any help would be appreciated. |
|
|
| Stoker |
quote:
Originally posted by northoftheline
I'm curious, we're waiting for our '07 SE to arrive and I'd like to do the oil changes myself. Does the Nissan have any stipulations about whom, how and when the oil changes are done? I've always done all my oil changes at home, but I don't want to void my warranty by doing it myself. Any help would be appreciated.
I to having been doing my own oil changes for years. When I buy a new car I always ask the question on oil changes, the response has been that they only want to do the first change and then you can do what you want. Having said that, I have been cautioned by my younger brother who works as a Service advisor and deals with issues like that, he says to keep a log that can prove that you have change the oil at certain intervals. The log should state Kms at oil changes, type and quantity of oil and whether or not you change the oil filter at that time. If you do all that you should not have any problems IF you ever have to make a claim on your engine. :29: :29: |
|
|
| Gonzo |
| Save all your reciepts |
|
|
| njjoe |
I keep an organized file of all receipts and a spreadsheet of all expenditures. If a service adviser questions me, I can easily produce documentation supporting my maintenance claims.
-njjoe |
|
|
| Halo |
The owner's manual even mentions the option of doing your own service. (Although, it goes on to suggest that you'd want to pad the pockets of the dealer by going there for service).
I, too, just keep my receipts for the oil and filters I buy and write on them the mileage when I did the work. Same goes with the air filter and cabin filter (dealer wants $119 to change that!).
I see two possible outcomes of screwing up oil changes (not doing them enough, not adding enough oil, not changing the filter):
1. Catastrophic mechanical failure (spun bearing, seized piston and the like).
2. Gradual loss of compression from wear.
Number 2 isn't going to happen to me since I simply don't keep a car long enough. So, really, the only 'claim' when I'd have to present my proof of oil changes to the dealer is a catastrophic mechanical failure. I've not seen any posts in this board suggesting a design problem with the VQ engine that might result in this.
Proof of oil changes isn't going to be an issue when a window motor fails, or the AC compressor craps out. |
|
|
| parry |
| Do you know if it has to be Mobil 1 5w30 during summer or it changes with weather? Or does it change with mileage? someone told me after the engine is broken into, u should be okay with 10w30. please clarify? Plus is mobil1 good or syntec from castrol good as well? thanks guys |
|
|
| njjoe |
parry-
I think it is safe to say the majority of Mobil 1 users are choosing 5W30 as their year-round grade of choice. That is not to say it is the best choice for everyone, but it is a good choice for most.
You can flip a coin on this one - Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are both good choices. Some people swear by Mobil 1. I believe that as long as you use a good quality oil and change it at regular intervals your engine will live a long and healthy life.
-njjoe |
|
|
| masboy |
| Anyone know where can I buy Mobil1 5w30 local in Los Angeles area ? seems like Autozone doesn't have it. |
|
|
| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
Anyone know where can I buy Mobil1 5w30 local in Los Angeles area ? seems like Autozone doesn't have it.
You're kidding, right? Just about every major auto parts chain in North America carries the Mobil 1 line of products. If AutoZone doesn't have it, it is a safe bet the next guy will.
-njjoe |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
You're kidding, right? Just about every major auto parts chain in North America carries the Mobil 1 line of products. If AutoZone doesn't have it, it is a safe bet the next guy will.
-njjoe
Actually I found that at busy stores, Mobil One 5w30 is usually sold out (esp in Northern California). So I'm not surprised its hard to find. I remember one day visiting three separate Kragens in San Francisco, and none had Mobil One 5w30 (sold out), so for that oil change, I used Pennzoil Synthetic on the Maxima instead. |
|
|
| masboy |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
You're kidding, right? Just about every major auto parts chain in North America carries the Mobil 1 line of products. If AutoZone doesn't have it, it is a safe bet the next guy will.
-njjoe
that's what I thought too. I guess I have to try another autozone or something. |
|
|
| Gonzo |
quote:
Originally posted by Halo
...I see two possible outcomes of screwing up oil changes (not doing them enough, not adding enough oil, not changing the filter):...
Actually one more... over fill. Better to under fill than over fill. |
|
|
| Gonzo |
| If you really really really needed to get Mobil 1 and don't mind paying more for it you can get it a Mobil gas station. |
|
|
| Eric L. |
| I'm not sure how many Walmarts there are in the LA area (I know there are *none* in the SF Bay Area in Northern California). Also, no Exxon-Mobil stations either. Its mainly Shell, Chevron, 76, and Arco in the Bay Area. |
|
|
| masboy |
| what did u guys do with the 'used oil' ? is there any 'free waste oil disposal' ? |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
what did u guys do with the 'used oil' ? is there any 'free waste oil disposal' ?
You can bottle it up and take it to any Kragen, Autozone, Checker, etc.... and they will take it for free. Some will take the bottles you bring at the counter, others will require you to go into the back room and empty your bottles into the giant drums.
Personally, I save gallon sized orange juice bottles (or 2 liter soda bottles) for this task. More secure tops than gallon sized water containers or milk jugs. To avoid a mess, pick up a small funnel as well. |
|
|
| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
what did u guys do with the 'used oil' ? is there any 'free waste oil disposal' ?
I live at the beach, so I just dumped it in the bay.... ONLY KIDDING!!
Many auto parts stores, such as Advance Auto Parts, have recycling programs and will take your used oil. Many service stations will also take your used oil.
When you buy the oil, check and see if the retailer has a recycling program.
-njjoe |
|
|
| masboy |
| damn you guys quick on reply. THANKS !! :) |
|
|
| Gonzo |
| I use a large oil pan from rubermaid.... every 2nd oil change I bring it my town's recyling center. |
|
|
| masboy |
I've just finished change my MO oil by myself *finally* and I THINK it's overfill a little bit. I know it's not good, what could happened ? It's pretty dark in my apartment garage, so I'm just gonna change the OIL FILTER tomorrow morning, is that OK ? :confused:
Bare with me, this is my first time to change oil by myself :( . Please advice.
Thanks for all the help everybody. This forum rocks !! |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
I've just finished change my MO oil by myself *finally* and I THINK it's overfill a little bit. I know it's not good, what could happened ? It's pretty dark in my apartment garage, so I'm just gonna change the OIL FILTER tomorrow morning, is that OK ? :confused:
Bare with me, this is my first time to change oil by myself :( . Please advice.
Thanks for all the help everybody. This forum rocks !!
What do you mean by overfill? How many quarts did you put in? It would probably a couple gallons of oil in order to overfill the entire engine to point where its running out the filler hole! If by overfill you mean you added say, 5 quarts total instead of 4-1/2, then its no big deal at all.
Its best to drain the oil and change the oil filter at the same time. Reason? While most of the oil sits in the pan, which is below the filter, the level might be high enough that some will run out when you remove the filter, thereby causing a mess.
The order I always go is:
1) drain oil
2) remove filter
3) clean filter mount area (wipe it with a shop towel)
4) lube filter gasket, then install filter, tighten 2/3 turn
5) reinstall drain plug (i don't do this anymore since I have the Fumoto valve)
6) pour in 4-1/2 quarts oil, screw on filler cap
7) start engine, check for leaks |
|
|
| masboy |
quote:
Originally posted by Eric L.
What do you mean by overfill? How many quarts did you put in? It would probably a couple gallons of oil in order to overfill the entire engine to point where its running out the filler hole! If by overfill you mean you added say, 5 quarts total instead of 4-1/2, then its no big deal at all.
yeah, its like that. it's probably like close to 4-3/4....good to know it's not a big deal at all.
thanks Eric! |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
yeah, its like that. it's probably like close to 4-3/4....good to know it's not a big deal at all.
thanks Eric!
Then nothing to worry about at all. Enjoy the ride. |
|
|
| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by masboy
yeah, its like that. it's probably like close to 4-3/4....good to know it's not a big deal at all.
That should not be a problem.
When I change the oil I put the car on ramps so the oil can drain more efficiently. Each time I ended up putting 5 quarts of oil back in.
The spec sheet for the engine indicates the "dry fill" volume is 5 1/4 quarts.
-njjoe |
|
|
| soliton |
As I prepare myself for my first O&F change in the MO, I'm pondering the following issues:
1) How do I get the filter door open on the wheel well? I can't figure out how remove the little plastic clips that hold the door. The manual states "remove the cover with a suitable tool". The picture in the manual of the "suitable tool" is not very clear. The tool looks like a socket wrench without a socket. Any advice on how to remove the door clips? Also, they seem fragile, are they easily broken?
2) I have ramps and I normally use them to change the oil in previous cars. However, in the MO, since the wheel sort of needs to be turned to the side to get to the filter, I'm a little scare of using the ramps and turning the wheel once the car is on top. What are you home mechanics doing? Forget the ramps maybe?
Thank you for any advice in advance.
Also, I want to comment on the excellent quality of this forum and its members. |
|
|
| Eric L. |
| Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop out the middle of the plastic rivets holding the wheelwell liner on. Make sure you pop out the middle of it, then the larger part around it will come out as well. |
|
|
| BikerJohn |
| To remove the plastic wheel-well panel; first remove the plastic plugs. To do so only requires a thin flat-headed screw driver. Place the screw driver between the collar and head; apply slight pressure as you twist the driver it will withdraw the head. See pics. |
|
|
| BikerJohn |
| You won't require a ramp; another posted did mention just to park your car with the steering turned all the way to the right. That will give you plenty of room to get to the filter area. Just remember that when you remove the filter; oil will splash onto the suspension components so have lots of rags under your filter before removing it. Make sure to place your drain pan under your filter too. Here's what the plug looks like with the center pulled out. It's like a mushroom head. It's used in quite a few areas..... |
|
|
| njjoe |
soliton-
I find that I can easily change the oil filter without having to remove the wheel-well. I simply raise the front of the MO a few inches by riding up on some 2X10s. I can then easily reach the filter from underneath the front of the MO. With the MO slightly raised it also makes it easier for the oil to drain from the pan.
-njjoe |
|
|
| Gonzo |
I find it very easy to change the oil in the MO... you could also use a small plastic container about 6x4x2 to place under the oil filter to catch the oil that drips out.
This has been the only car I've ever owned that I can change the oil with ramps of any sort. I just get under... the filter is so easy to get to. |
|
|
| soliton |
Thank you all for the quick replies. I have seen those type of clips that hold the wheel well cover in other vehicles. They always feel flimsy to me. Any issues with them breaking apart?
i will raise the car on ramps and look underneath to see how accessible the filter is without taking of the cover, it is worth a try (like njjoe suggests).
As far as the oil filter itself. Any of you use the Nissan OEM part? I read somewhere that they have some sort of back flow preventer valve to the oil doesn't go all over the place when taking the filter off. Any comments on this? However, am I better off using an after market filter even without this feature just because it is a better filter?
Thanks again!
Miguel |
|
|
| Eric L. |
I use the OEM filters exclusively.
The clips are pretty sturdy if you pop out the middle section like the great pictures above show. I think its easier to go through the wheel well, but you can go underneath if you want to crawl underneath the car. |
|
|
| Corin |
Many discussions already on this forum about different brands of oil filters. Generally speaking, most of the "maintenance extremists" on here feel that the OEM filters are indeed very high quality, and if you have a decent dealer you might be able to get them for quite cheap (my local dealer is giving me 4 for the price of 3 if I buy them all at once).
Are the K&N filters better? Perhaps, but not by a very big margin, and you'll pay quite a bit more for them. Stick with OEM, you should be happy. |
|
|
| Corin |
Oh, and about the plastic clips...
The same clips are also in the hood, just above the grill. You can play with those to see how they work before trying to mess with the ones in the wheel well. You'll be able to see them easier and have a better feel for how they work.
I haven't had any break on me yet. They're not as flimsy as they appear. And since these are a very common part, you should be able to pick up replacements pretty easily. |
|
|
| caquilino |
what exactly is the plastic piece called? i busted one today and need to buy a replacement? should i go to nissan or is there a cheaper place online
thanks |
|
|
| BlueSteW8 |
My guess is they won't be cheap at the dealer, but probably not so bad as to warrant spending shipping charges.
I have a few to replace - I didn't break any, but one under the hood is missing, one is loose (comes out without doing anything) and one of the ones for the filter access is broken as well.
I did the oil & filter today - I sprung for Castrol Syntec 5W-30.
I wonder about the filter though.
It seems awful small, but given 5qt capacity of the engine, maybe not. |
|
|
| o6murano |
quote:
Originally posted by caquilino
what exactly is the plastic piece called? i busted one today and need to buy a replacement? should i go to nissan or is there a cheaper place online
thanks
Just go to the dealer, if they try charging you for them what could they possibly, a dollar max for each one? Hell...they'll probably give them to you, I imagine they have thousands of them around |
|
|
| njjoe |
I was at Lowes yesterday and found the plastic clips in the hardware section. They were located in the slide-out drawers usually reserved for the specialty hardware. They had about a dozen different sizes, one of which must fit our beloved MO.
-njjoe |
|
|
| BikerJohn |
njjoe
Great to hear! Too bad there are no Lowes in Ontario, Canada:( |
|
|
| nafddur |
I can't believe you guys are messing with those plastic clips at ALL!
There is enough give in that plastic panel to just pull it back from the bottom, spin the old filter off (there is enough room even with the panel on and just pulled back for any filter wrench), clean where the old filter was, and spin the new one on.
I saw that the dealer didn't remove the panel - the service guy there merely pulled it back to get at the filter - when they were doing one of my five `free' oil changes that came with the car. Of course, they had it up on a lift so it was a tad easier. But I always rotate my tires at every oil change, and it's easier to get at the filter and drain plug with the wheel on that corner removed completely.
I do my old maxima the same way, but that one has bolts holding a similar panel, and one of the bolts has to be removed every oil change to move the panel enough to get access to the filter. My daughter's 07 Quest is exactly the same as my 04 MO - no panel removal is necessary. |
|
|
| rwsnc |
quote:
Originally posted by Eric L.
..snip, snip...
Its best to drain the oil and change the oil filter at the same time. Reason? While most of the oil sits in the pan, which is below the filter, the level might be high enough that some will run out when you remove the filter, thereby causing a mess.
The order I always go is:
1) drain oil
2) remove filter
3) clean filter mount area (wipe it with a shop towel)
4) lube filter gasket, then install filter, tighten 2/3 turn
5) reinstall drain plug (i don't do this anymore since I have the Fumoto valve)
6) pour in 4-1/2 quarts oil, screw on filler cap
7) start engine, check for leaks
Where can I get a "fumoto valve"? |
|
|
| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by rwsnc
Where can I get a "fumoto valve"?
rwsnc -
The website, fumotovalve.com, has recently been changed to http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
The cost is either $22.95 or $25.95 depending on which version you opt for.
-njjoe |
|
|
| rwsnc |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
rwsnc -
The website, fumotovalve.com, has recently been changed to http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
The cost is either $22.95 or $25.95 depending on which version you opt for.
-njjoe
This seems like a great idea. Most drain plugs are magnetized to pick up metal particles, although I can't ever remember finding any in all the times that I've changed my oil. I'd be a little concerned that those metal parts (if any) would stay in the reservoir and possibly get recirculated.
What do you think? |
|
|
| Stoker |
quote:
Originally posted by rwsnc
This seems like a great idea. Most drain plugs are magnetized to pick up metal particles, although I can't ever remember finding any in all the times that I've changed my oil. I'd be a little concerned that those metal parts (if any) would stay in the reservoir and possibly get recirculated.
What do you think?
rwsnc
I know that the magnetic oil pan plug was a big idea in the 70's, but I believe that it has fallen out of favor due the the quality of the engines being built today. I have the fumoto valve in both of my cars and I just added one to my daughters car, if I am changing the oil I will make it as easy as possible.
Your comment about draining the oil from the pan first then removing the filter only works if you are using a filter without a internal check valve (like the OEM from the dealer) if you do use the this type of filter it does not matter in which order you pull first as the filter will still be full of oil after the pan has been drained. |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by Stoker
rwsnc
I know that the magnetic oil pan plug was a big idea in the 70's, but I believe that it has fallen out of favor due the the quality of the engines being built today. I have the fumoto valve in both of my cars and I just added one to my daughters car, if I am changing the oil I will make it as easy as possible.
Your comment about draining the oil from the pan first then removing the filter only works if you are using a filter without a internal check valve (like the OEM from the dealer) if you do use the this type of filter it does not matter in which order you pull first as the filter will still be full of oil after the pan has been drained.
Actually the OEM filter does have an anti-drainback valve. So it is probably a good idea to change the filter as well each time else you'll leave a quart of old oil behind (well the OEM filter is so kind of small, its probably like half a quart at most). |
|
|
| Gonzo |
| I don't remove the plastic clips when I change mine.... I do use, as a suggestion from this site, a small plastic container under the filer when I remove it.... much cleaner and less mess with the container. |
|
|
| Eric L. |
| Forgot to add, I love my fumoto valve! Works as advertised and much less mess! |
|
|
| Kris |
| Another happy fumoto valve user here....:) |
|
|
| rwsnc |
The fumoto valve looks like a good idea.
I haven't changed the oil in my new MO, yet, but I will do it when its time. I live in NC and have been using l Castrol GTX 10W30 (year round) with a Fram Oil Filter for years. Will that combo be ok in the MO? |
|
|
| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by rwsnc
The fumoto valve looks like a good idea.
I haven't changed the oil in my new MO, yet, but I will do it when its time. I live in NC and have been using l Castrol GTX 10W30 (year round) with a Fram Oil Filter for years. Will that combo be ok in the MO?
Yeah but use 5w30, for that extra bit of fuel mileage (that the oil the MO was designed for). 10w30 is ok for warm climates. |
|
|
| hasaanbhutta |
here is what i do....
1. open the top lid (where u put the oil in)
2. put the oil pan underneath and open the fumoto valve. wait for about 45 mins....
3. remove filter carefully with a paper towel (losen it a little bit with hand and then use towel). wait for another 15 mins....
4. shut the fumoto valve
5. put the new filter in
6. pour in oil ( i use the 4.5 litre jug from Mobil 1)
7. start the car and let it run for 10 mins.
8. check back the oil level after 4-5 days ( or 200km)
FUMOTO IS BEST !!! period. i got it on my MO last year and after 3 oil changes, i can say if you take your filter off carefully, it is a 100% no mess solution. my brother just ordered one for his KIA as well.
PS> you can use YM4 as the discount code for 10% off the price.... (it still works as of monday this week).... |
|
|
| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by hasaanbhutta
PS> you can use YM4 as the discount code for 10% off the price.... (it still works as of monday this week)....
Maybe the moderators can add this to the Current Group Buys section.
-njjoe |
|
|
| HuskyFan |
quote:
Originally posted by rwsnc
The fumoto valve looks like a good idea.
I live in NC and have been using l Castrol GTX 10W30 (year round) with a Fram Oil Filter for years.
There has been bad reviews of Fram Oil filters. I bought 4 OEM Nissan filters with crush washers included for $20 at my dealer. For that price I would go with the Nissan filter.
The Nissan dealers like to display a cutaway of their filters and the Fram filters which seem to show the Fram filter to be inferior. |
|
|
| rwsnc |
quote:
Originally posted by HuskyFan
There has been bad reviews of Fram Oil filters. I bought 4 OEM Nissan filters with crush washers included for $20 at my dealer. For that price I would go with the Nissan filter.
The Nissan dealers like to display a cutaway of their filters and the Fram filters which seem to show the Fram filter to be inferior.
Humm.... that's good to know. I've been using the Fram Extra Guard filters for years and changing them every 3000 miles with the oil change. Guess I'd better look into the Nissan filters. Thanks for the "heads up". |
|
|
| BikerJohn |
| Thanks for the web link njjoe; I just ordered one and yes; the code that hasaanbhutta posted still works! Thanks hasaanbhutta!! |
|
|
|
