| NELSON |
I'm just posting this because when I tried searching this site for people that just upgraded their speakers (no amp, crossovers, etc.), I didn't really see anyone.
So maybe I'm helping someone who is not an extreme enthusiast/techie like most 'posters' on this site.. Well, on my previous cars, I had great audio setups.. new head unit, component speakers with an amp, and a subwoofer with an amp. However, on the murano, I didn't want wires running everywhere, carpets getting cut up, drilling an amp down under a seat, etc. (Especially since I don't know how to do any of this myself. Many times I have come back from an installer and noticed a scatch on the interior or exterior.)
I've read around the forums about speaker compatibility, this ohm to that ohm (as u can tell, I don't know much about that). Well I intalled Pioneer TS-D161R in the front and rear doors.. check the specs on crutchfield. They're awesome. The clarity of highs are exceptional and, surprisingly, they produce a good amount of bass.
So yea, to those who just want more clarity, a little more bass, who dont want to fool around with wires everywhere, just go do this... You won't regret it. |
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| Eric L. |
| Did you use wiretaps for the connections, or did you find a convenient harness adapter? |
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| NELSON |
No, I was not able to find a harness compatible with the murano...so they were just wired tapped.
You asked a question on one of my other posts.. well to answer, my volume is usually kept at a little more than half way..
I'm not sure what you mean by "loss of power," but these are clearer and louder than the stock Bose speakers.. As you might know, if you turn the volume up full blast with the Bose, It sounds terrible.. It's almost like a crackling sound..
Now with the pioneer speakers, if I turn it up all the way, its sounds as clear as if it were only half way.. get what I mean?? That is why i know If I ever added an amp to these speakers, it would be astounding!! however, I'm a little hesitant to add an amp right now..
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| Eric L. |
Thanks for the answer.
I was thinking of replacing just my speakers too, but was afraid of running the volume higher afterwards because it might shorten the life of the BOSE amp. What do you set it to when normally driving (the number on the display)? I normally have my stock BOSE between 10-15 when driving. |
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| NELSON |
wow I didnt even think about blowing out the Bose amp.. however I don't think it would blow out because, from what I understand, the amp powers the speakers, the speakers don't power the amp.. so why would the amp blow out ??? correct me if I am wrong.. I've heard of speakers blowing out because of too much power coming from the amp, but not vice versa..
the speakers are only as powerful as the amp that is pushing them, right?? i dont think that because you add more powerful speakers, it causes the amp to try and produce more power than it is capable of.. once again, please correct me if I am wrong.. |
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| NELSON |
oh sorry, I didnt answer your other question..
well on the 06's, the volume isn't assigned numbers.. its just bars that light up as you go up or down... so in my case, I usually drive with half of the bars lit up.. I never counted how many bars there were.. i would say that there are approximately 50 bars there. |
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| Eric L. |
| I didn't mean blow out the amp. I just meant if you run it at a higher power for a longer period, the time accumulated heat buildup might shorten its life, as with most electronics. Half max volume is probably not a major issue though, thanks for the providing such quick and helpful answers! |
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| njjoe |
Nelson-
A speaker can cause an amp to fail.
Impedance, which is measured in ohms, is the amount of inductive resistance a speaker exhibits to the flow of electrical signals from an amplifier. Most amps need a minimum of 4 ohms to work properly, however some can go as low as 2 ohms.
If you have an amp that is only capable of handling a 4-ohms load and you attach 2-ohms speakers you most likely will blow the amp.
-njjoe |
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| Eric L. |
| Njjoe makes a good point. This means a non-bose Murano cannot use the Bose speakers (which are low impedance). |
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| NELSON |
ahhhhhh thanks for the lesson njjoe...
hmmm.. looks like a might have to add an amp after all.. I'll see how long the amp lasts and let you guys know... hopefully, not any time soon!!
Thanks |
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| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by NELSON
ahhhhhh thanks for the lesson njjoe...
hmmm.. looks like a might have to add an amp after all.. I'll see how long the amp lasts and let you guys know... hopefully, not any time soon!!
Thanks
I doubt running the amp at half power will cause it to fail prematurely. Its what njjoe mentioned - running an amp with speakers of too low impedance (i.e generating more watts - remember Poison Ivy: P=IV and V=IR). Given that the BOSE speakers are 2ohm, and normal speakers are 4ohm, your BOSE amp would be putting out roughly half the power it normally does. However, if you use it with a sensitive speaker (Crutchfield provides power sensitivity), that cut in power would not be a huge issue I think. |
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| Eric L. |
A quick search on Crutchfield and I found Infinity Kappa speakers that fit the Murano, with 2 ohm impedance!
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DVJnEe...52000&I=108627I
Opinions anyone? These might be the ideal replacement for those who want to keep the BOSE amp. |
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| rogmur |
As for the Kappas at 2-ohms (and high efficiency): I'm with you there Eric. They seem like the ideal solution. Maybe the only really good speaker-only one. Unless a 4-ohm speaker has much higher sensitivity than the stockers, you may loose significant volume.
I've so far taken the half step of putting the tweeters from the Kappa (10.7s) in place of the stockers. It's only a moderate benefit, but it brightens the top end enough that I no longer feel the stereo sucks. Not as good as the full job, but a lot of bang for the buck (tweeters were around 65 bucks) I know find myself running the treble control at +1 instead of +4. Much better tonal balance for few bucks and time invested. Highly recommended. I'm not the first to do this, but I'll certainly 2nd the motion. |
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| Eric L. |
| Cool. I'll probably wait until my bumper to bumper warranty expires before I do any changes to the stereo. |
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| larry1960 |
I installed a 4 ch amp and a subwoffer and 4 new speakers. I used pioneer speakers and directed amps.The subwoffer is in my spare tire and made out of fiberglass It is a thin pioneer driver and a 1200 mono amp
It sounds great I removed the factory Bose amp and moved the sirius box to fit in my amps I used a OEM2 by PAC This must be used .
I own a audio store in Westchester NY if anybody wants to know more E-Mail me.
Larry:) :) |
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| bluzrip |
quote:
A quick search on Crutchfield and I found Infinity Kappa speakers that fit the Murano, with 2 ohm impedance!
These speakers use external crossovers which are small (as these things go). The crossovers are about 4 x 2 x 1.25 inches. I'm curious if anyone has installed either the 692.7i or the 62.7i speakers in their Murano. I'd like to install both in my 2005 Murano and utilize the stock speaker wiring; this would require that the crossovers be placed in the doors. Anyone found a good place to tuck them (i.e. the crossovers) away in the doors? :27: |
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| nissanlove |
| i'm actually thinking about getting the kappa 62.71's also. responses would be great. |
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| super3 |
I just replaced the Bose speakers in my '05 SE with four Infinity 6012i speakers. They are 6.5 inch two ways with aimable tweeters and yes I know they are 4 ohm but they work great. I unhooked the lame tweeters in the dash because I don't need them and I had read that the tweeters and front door speakers were wired in parallel thus giving only 2 ohms on the front channels of the amp. That must be true because with the tweeters unhooked and the fader at center I can now hear something from the back. Before I had to fade about to R3 before I could hear the rear speakers.
With the tone controls set to flat and the fader at center I have excellent highs and more solid bass without the flabby boomy Bose bass. Everything is just a lot more clearer and cleaner and I'm still running off the anemic Bose amplifier. I can't remember where I was running the volume before but now having it at 13-15 is more than loud enough for my ears. Next project is to try to do something with the Bose "subwoofer" if that's what we are supposed to call it.
One big problem I have though is that the passenger rear door is locked and I cannot figure out how to open it. The lock button moves with the door switch and of course manually and the inside handle just flops and does nothing. Same thing with the outside handle. I thought at first I had hit the child lock by mistake but the outside handle doesn't work so I must have snaged one of the door lock cables when I was taking off or putting on the inside door panel. Of course with the door shut and locked I can't get the inside panel off anymore to see what's with the cables.
The only way I can think of to get the door open is to take off the right luggage compartment sidewall if I can and hope I can get at the back of the door striker bolts so I can drill them out. Then the door should open and all I'll have to do is replace the two torx bolts holding the striker on. I'll have to order them from Nissan of course and have them in my hand before I start to drill out the existing bolts.
Has anyone got any other ideas on how to open a locked door if you can't get the lock mechanism to release??? |
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| Enforcer |
ouch!
I don't but you may try removing the window button/cover and the handle/cover first. Just to see if you can find an end of the door lock control cable or something else. |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by super3
One big problem I have though is that the passenger rear door is locked and I cannot figure out how to open it. Has anyone got any other ideas on how to open a locked door if you can't get the lock mechanism to release???
Super3,
Why not let the dealer take care of it under warranty?
-njjoe |
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| Enforcer |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
Why not let the dealer take care of it under warranty?
-njjoe
Yeah just tell them the speakers must have lept in there all by themselves. :8:
:2:
Still, I'd do that before drilling. |
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| super3 |
I managed to get the manual door lock button off and the cable is right there so I pulled on it with a pliers while I worked the inside and even the outside door handles. No Dice. The cables are hooked up to something but the lock won't unlock.
I swallowed my pride and called the dealer today. I explained right up front that I had replaced the speakers and he said he has a tech who can jimmy anything so bring it in and he will give it a try. It's not a warranty problem so if it costs me 50 bucks it's worth it. He also said I can't access the back of the striker bolts so forget about drilling them out. If they can't jimmy the lock then the next step is to cut an access hole in the inside door panel to get at the actual lock mechanism inside the door. I wonder what a new inside door finisher/panel is worth. With my luck it's probably 400 to 500 bucks up here in Canada.
Anyway it goes to the dealer on Friday morning so I'll see how good he is.....
I guess I should forget about the PAC adapter and the Alpine 4 channel amp...I'll probably short something and burn the damned vehicle down!!!! |
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| Enforcer |
:21:
Bah, no pain no gain. I'm morbidly interested on what really happened to the door though. |
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| super3 |
I would like to know too.
I took the inside door panel off to replace the speaker and I didn't bother unscrewing the screws that hold the inside lock/handle bracket to the door panel like I did with the front doors. The panel was hanging touching the floor and the lock cables were basically keeping it from falling over, no real weight was on the cables.
After I put the speaker in and put the door back together it actually worked, I could open and close the door from inside or outside. I went for a ride and listened to the new speakers and when I got home I wanted to take the tools out of the vehicle and the door wouldn't open from outside. I went around to the other side and got into the back seat and tried it from inside and it wouldn't open either. I took the power window bezel off and the screw behind it and the trim off around the inside door handle with all of the hidden screws and wiggled some things and it worked again. I was able to open the door and close it about 10 times. I put everything back together again and closed the door (locked it of course)and that's all folks, no matter what I do I can't get it open.
When I click the keyless entry remote the door lock button moves and I hear a clunk inside the door like it's unlocking but the inside/outside handles won't work as it's still locked. I can move the manual lock button and even pulled on the cable with the same result, a big nothing.
If the dealer can get it open and tell me what happened then I'll post it so others can watch for the same thing because it sure is frustrating. |
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| super3 |
I finally got the door open. I went to the dealer today and to two different locksmiths and nobody had a clue how to handle the Nissan lock with the cables. It appears the cables go right into the lock and there is no access for a tool to get at the locking mechanism.
OK so I go home and I'm determined to open the damned door even if I bust something. I got a price from the dealer for the inside door finisher as I was originally going to cut a hole in it to get at the lock. WOW, after I picked myself up, they want $1066.00 Canadian for the lousy plastic door finisher panel. For that much I'll cut a hole in the outside of the door and take it to a bodyshop to have it fixed after.
Anyway, I took off the manual door lock button which is easy and managed to get behind the inside door handle with a bent pair of needlenose pliers and grab the handle cable. I pulled on it and wiggled it and voila the door opened. Yeah!!!! I found out just as I had guessed that the lousy stinking rotten "child lock" button was stuck between "lock" and "unlock" . I had to fiddle around with the cable and I unbolted the rear window track so I could get the door lock mechanism out of the door but I couldn't get the child lock to go to the "unlock" position. At that point I was just about to phone the dealer and order a complet door lock assembly but I gave it one more shot by wiggling and pulling the cables while I pushed the childlock button and it finally moved.
I put the door all back together and it still works. My kids are all grown and gone so I put some tape over the child lock on both back doors so they don't get moved and stuck again. I must have hit the damned thing when I was putting the inside door panel back on after installing the speaker on that side. I'd like to know why the door locked and unlocked for a while after I put it back together though??????
I would also really like to know how the dealer is supposed to get a door open if the actuator fails and the cable won't work, or even if one of the cables breaks. Come on Nissan, this is one super shoddy design on a Cdn $50,000 vehicle. |
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| Enforcer |
quote:
Originally posted by super3
I took off the manual door lock button which is easy and managed to get behind the inside door handle with a bent pair of needlenose pliers and grab the handle cable.
And the dealer couldn't figure that out? Well, wish I could say I'm not surprised. Thats good to know though. For whatever reason if that child lock gets stuck in the middle. Thanks for the info, I'm sure it will be of benefit to others. |
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